January that are as agreeable as any in the fineft Months. At fuch times, therefore, I think there could not be a greater Pleasure, than to walk in fuch a Winter-Garden as I have propofed. In the Summer-Season the whole Country blooms, and is a kind of Garden, for which reafon we are not fo fenfible of thofe Beauties that at this time may be every where met with; but when Nature is in her Defolation, and presents us with nothing but bleak and barren Profpects, there is fomething unfpeakably chearful in a Spot of Ground which is cover'd with Trees that smile amidst all the Rigour of Winter, and give us a view of the moft gay Seafon in the midst of that which is the most dead and melancholy. I have fo far indulged myself in this Thought, that I have fet apart a whole Acre of Ground for the executing of it. The Walls are covered with Ivy instead of Vines. The Laurel, the Horn-beam, and the Holly, with many other Trees and Plants of the fame nature, grow fo thick in it, that you cannot imagine a more lively Scene. The glowing Redness of the Berries with which they are hung at this time, vics with the Verdure of their Leaves, and are apt to infpire the Heart of the Beholder, with that vernal Delight which

you

have fomewhere taken notice of in your former Papers. It is very pleafant, at the fame time, to fee the feveral kinds of Birds retiring into this little green Spot, and enjoy

ing themselves among the Branches and Foliage, when my great Garden, which I have before mention'd to you, does not afford a fingle Leaf for their Shelter.

YOU must know, Sir, that I look upon the Pleasure which we take in a Garden, as one of the most innocent Delights in human Life. A Garden was the Habitation of our firft Parents before the Fall. It is naturally apt to fill the Mind with Calmness and Tranquillity, and to lay all its turbulent Paffions at reft. It gives us a great Infight into the Contrivance and Wisdom of Providence, and fuggefts innumerable Subjects for Meditation. I cannot but think the very Complacency and Satisfaction which a Man takes in thefe Works of Nature, to be a laudable, if not a virtuous Habit of Mind. For all which Reasons I hope you will pardon the Length of my pre

fent Letter.

I am,

SIR, &c.

C

સત્ય

Monday,

N° 478 Monday, September 8.

Ufus,

Quem penes Arbitrium eft, & Jus & Norma

Hor. Ars Poet. v. 72.

Fashion, the Arbiter, and Rule of Right.

I

Mr. SPECTATOR,

T happened lately, that a Friend of mine, who had many things to buy for his Family, would oblige me to walk with him to the Shops. He was very nice in his way, and fond of having every thing fhewn, which at first made me very uneafy; but as his Humour still continu'd, the things which I had been staring at along with him, began to fill my Head, and led me into a Set of amufing Thoughts concerning them.

I FANCIED it must be very surprising to any one who enters into a detail of Fashions, to confider how far the Vanity of Mankind has laid itself out in Drefs, what a prodigious number of People it maintains, and what a Circulation of Money it occafions. Providence in this Cafe makes ufe of the Folly which we will not give up, and it becomes inftrumental to the Support of those who are willing to labour. Hence it is that Fringe-makers, Lace

Lace-Men, Tire-Women, and a Number of other Trades, which would be ufelefs in a fimple State of Nature, draw their Subfiftence; tho' it is feldom feen that fuch as thefe are extremely rich, because their original Fault of being founded upon Vanity, keeps them poor by the light Inconftancy of its Nature. The Variableness of Fafhion turns the Stream of Bufinefs, which flows from it, now into one Channel, and anon into another; fo that the different Sets of People fink or flourish in their turns by it.

FROM the Shops we retir'd to the Tavern, where I found my Friend express so much Satisfaction for the Bargains he had made, that my moral Reflexions (if I had told them). might have pass'd for a Reproof; so I chose rather to fall in with him, and let the Difcourfe run upon the Ufe of Fashions.

HERE we remembred how much Man is govern'd by his Senfes, how lively he is ftruck. by the Objects which appear to him in an agreeable manner, how much Clothes contribute to make us agreeable Objects, and how much we owe it to ourfelves that we should appear fo.

WE confidered Man as belonging to Societies; Societies as form'd of different Ranks; and different Ranks diftinguished by Habits, that all proper Duty or Refpect might attend their Appearance.

WE

WE took notice of several Advantages which are met with in the Occurrences of Converfation: How the bafhful Man has been sometimes fo rais'd, as to exprefs himself with an Air of Freedom, when he imagines that his Habit introduces him to Company with a becoming manner: And again, how a Fool in fine Clothes fhall be fuddenly heard with Attention, till he has betray'd himself; whereas a Man of Senfe appearing with a Dress of Negligence shall be but coldly received, till he be proved by Time, and established in a Character. Such things as these we could recollect to have happen'd to our own knowledge fo very often, that we concluded the Author had his Reasons, who advises his Son to go in Dress rather above his Fortune than under it.

AT laft the Subject feem'd fo confiderable, that it was proposed to have a Repofitory built for Fashions, as there are Chambers for Medals and other Rarities. The Building may be fhap'd as that which ftands among the Pyramids, in the Form of a Woman's Head. This may be rais'd upon Pillars, whofe Ornaments fhall bear a juft relation to the Defign. Thus there may be an Imitation of Fringe carv'd in the Bafe, a fort of Appearance of Lace in the Frize, and a Representation of curling Locks, with Bows of Ribbon floping over them, may fill up the Work of the Cornifh. The Infide may be divided into two Apartments appropriated to each Sex. The Apartments may be fill'd