CHAPTER IV.

COLUMBIA RIVER.

1841.

THE Vincennes having sailed, I at once set about preparing for the survey of the river. I found that, agreeably to my first instructions, Captain Hudson had lost no time in despatching the parties for the interior, but the orders I had sent by Mr. Waldron, arrested their progress. I issued these orders because I anticipated that it would be necessary to make some change in the route they were to pursue; and in the mean time they would have more opportunity to prepare themselves for the journey.

Finding that Mr. Dana had not set out for the interior, I now saw and regretted the necessity of countermanding the orders for the party that was destined for the Rocky Mountains.

The boats of the Peacock were ordered to be fully manned and fitted out with all the requisites for surveying duties, and officers attached to each.

On the morning of the 9th, we began the survey. Some time had been before spent in taking a few angles and soundings, but with so little success, that I rejected the whole. The weather proved unfavourable for any of our operations, except that of putting up signals. We encamped at night on the small sandy island in the centre of the bay, where we were very uncomfortable, for the sand flew about and covered every thing. In the morning we had a thick fog, when I determined to go to Baker's Bay, where we could obtain water; for that of the Columbia is not fresh as low down as this point.

We found the tide exceedingly strong, and having some apprehensions that the boats might lose their way, I thought it better for us to make for the Chinook shore, and follow it until we reached the (113)

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cape. It may seem strange that this precaution should be taken, but it is necessary at all times, even in clear weather; for the tide is frequently so strong, that it cannot be stemmed by oars; and too much caution cannot be observed in passing across the bay. As little frequented as it is, many accidents have occurred to boats and canoes, by their being swept by the tide into the breakers on the bar, where all hands have perished. The Indians are very cautious, and it is only at certain times of the tide that they will attempt to make the passage.

We reached Baker's Bay in two hours, and formed our encampment; and here we determined to remain until the weather should become clear, and allow us to proceed with our duties.

As no news had been received from Passed Midshipman Eld's party, whom it will be recollected I had despatched from Nisqually to Gray's Harbour, by the Chickeeles, and as the time for which he had provisions had expired, I became apprehensive lest some accident might have detained him. I therefore despatched Lieutenant De Haven and Acting-Master Baldwin, with a few Indians, along the coast to Gray's Harbour, which is about forty miles distant, to convey a supply of provisions for that party, and to bring intelligence of them. This duty was executed by these gentlemen with promptness, and they reported that the party were struggling with difficulties of no ordinary character, of which I shall have occasion to speak hereafter.

The weather continued rainy and cold; but this did not seem to trouble our native pilots, Ramsey and his brother George. While we were preparing our huts, these men were seen upon the bank, deliberately stripping off their clothes, which they carefully folded up, and placed upon the ground for pillows; they then lay down, and covering