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exhibitions, which are represented by those who have witnessed them as affording them much entertainment, and a pastime in which they very frequently indulge; many of these masks are represented with the spoon-lip. As this ornament belongs to the female sex, they also

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engage in the diversion. Some of the masks are sufficiently hideous, while others are carved with skill: they use the soft pine for this purpose. The wood is variously stained with red, black, and yellow marks. The two of these represented in the engraving will give a good idea of those that are the best executed. The pipes, saucers, &c., are usually carved from clay.

PIPES OF THE NORTHWEST INDIANS.

The survey we finished by the morning of the 10th October, when we again reached Baker's Bay, and being determined to lose no time, we made the attempt to pass the bar: though we succeeded in doing so, I am satisfied it was at great risk; for, as I have been told is frequently the case, the wind failed us just at the most critical point, and rendered it doubtful if we should pass. Our situation was dangerous, and a vessel of any other class must have been wrecked. For at least twenty minutes I was in doubt whether we could effect our object; but by the use of sweeps we accomplished it, principally through the exertions of the extra men, belonging to the surveying boats, whom we had on board.

The Oregon was the only vessel in sight; and when I boarded her, I learned that they had not seen the Porpoise for three days. The next day she hove in sight, and the arrangements were soon completed.

I now supplied the tender with water and other requisites, and gave Mr. Knox orders to take a few more soundings on the outside of the bar, and then proceed along the coast as far as latitude 42° N., and to examine it, and the mouth of the Umpqua.

Previous to leaving the Columbia river, I addressed the following letter to Dr. M'Laughlin and Mr. Douglass.

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My last duty, before leaving the Columbia, I feel to be that of expressing to you my sincere thanks for the important aid and facilities which you have afforded the Expedition on all occasions, for carrying out the object of our visit to this part of the world; and be assured it will prove a very pleasing part of my duty to make a due representation of it to my government.

Your personal kindness and friendly attentions to myself and officers, from our first arrival, and also to Captain Hudson and his officers after the wreck of the Peacock, have laid us under many obligations, which I trust it may be at some future day in our power

to return.

We all would request through you an expression of our feelings for the many attentions and kindnesses received, and the pleasures afforded us by the officers of the Hudson Bay Company's service, with whom we have had any intercourse, which will be long remembered with pleasure.

With my sincere wishes for the health, happiness, and prosperity of yourselves and families, I am, very truly,

TO JOHN M'LAUGHLIN and

JAMES DOUGLASS, ESQUIRES,

Your obedient servant,

Chief Factors, H. B. C. Service, Vancouver.

CHARLES WILKES, Commanding Exploring Expedition.

At the same time, I wrote a letter to our government, informing them of the assistance we had received, stating the services these gentlemen had rendered us, and asking that an expression of acknowledgment might be made, through the British minister at Washington, to the Directors of the Hudson Bay Company in England.

On the night of the 15th, we parted company with the Oregon, and did not see her again until she arrived at San Francisco. We coasted along to the southward, in the Porpoise. The land is high and mountainous, and may be seen at a great distance. Soundings of dark sand

are obtained, in from thirty to forty fathoms water, about fifteen or twenty miles from the land.

The coast south of the Columbia river I regretted we had not an opportunity more particularly to examine: the attempt of the FlyingFish was unsuccessful; the season had advanced so far as to make it next to impossible to accomplish it in the manner I desired. I have no reason to doubt the correctness of the examinations that have been already made. No ports exist along any part of it, that are accessible to any class of vessels, even those of but very small draught of water; and the impediment that the constant and heavy surf offers, along the whole coast, to a landing in boats, makes this part of our territory. comparatively valueless in a commercial point of view. Along a great part of it is an iron-bound shore, rising precipitately from the water. Anchorage in a few places may be had, but only in fair weather, and during the fine season. For a more particular description of the coast, I refer to the Hydrographical Memoir.

On the 18th, we made Cape de los Reyes and the Farallones. In the afternoon we were boarded by a boat from the Company's bark, Cowlitz, in which was her master, Mr. Brochier, and M. Duplot de Mofras. The latter informed me that he had just made a tour through Mexico and California, and was now going to the Columbia, for a passage to Oahu. The same evening, finding that I could not reach the port, I anchored in thirteen fathoms water.

On the 19th, we were under way as soon as the tide made, and at 3 P. M. we anchored near the Vincennes, in Sausalito Bay, on the north side of the entrance. I was gratified to find all well. LieutenantCommandant Ringgold reported to me that he had fulfilled the instructions relative to the Sacramento river. Nothing had yet been heard of Lieutenant Emmons; and the next day I despatched the launch up the river to meet his party. The Oregon came in during the afternoon, and I forthwith made such disposition of the officers and men, as I deemed the future wants of the service would require; this, and the operations of the Vincennes, will form the subject of the next chapter.

HATS, NORTHWEST COAST.

CHAPTER V.

CONTENTS.

ARRIVAL OF THE VINCENNES AT SAN FRANCISCO-PREPARATIONS FOR THE SUR-
VEYS SAUSALITO-LONG DROUGHT-PRESIDIO-ALCALDE OF YERBA BUENA-TOWN
OF YERBA BUENA - UNSETTLED STATE OF CALIFORNIA-CLIMATE OF SAN FRAN-
CISCO-SOIL-CLIMATE OF CALIFORNIA-RIVERS-HARBOURS-TRADE-MANUFACTURE

OF WINE-INDUSTRY-MILLS-SHEEP-SWINE-MAGISTRATES AND ADMINISTRATION
OF JUSTICE-REVOLUTIONS OF CALIFORNIA-OPINIONS IN RELATION TO THEM —
RELATIONS WITH MEXICO-MODE OF RECRUITING FOR THE MISSIONS— PRESENT
CONDITION OF THE INDIANS-CHANGE IN THE ADMINISTRATION OF THE MISSIONS-
ITS EFFECTS ON THE INDIANS - THEIR NUMBERS - NUMBERS OF THE WHITES-
THEIR HEALTH-THEIR CHARACTER - THEIR MORALS-THEIR HOSPITALITY-THEIR
CRUELTY-EXPEDITION UP THE SACRAMENTO-BAY OF SAN PABLO-DELTA OF THE
SACRAMENTO-CAPTAIN SUTER-NEW HELVETIA-CAPTAIN SUTER'S FARMING AND
OTHER AVOCATIONS-INDIAN DANCE-DISEASES-ROUTE TO OREGON-DEPARTURE
FROM NEW HELVETIA - FEATHER RIVER-GAME-THE TULA-INDIANS-BEARS-
INTERVIEW WITH A CHIEF-MANNERS, ETC., OF THE INDIANS-THEIR RANCHERIA
-THEFT BY AN INDIAN-BUTE PRAIRIE-FISH-WEIR-KINKLA TRIBE- HUNTING-
RETURN TO NEW HELVETIA-AMERICAN SETTLERS-INDIAN VILLAGES- OCCUPA-
TIONS OF THE TWO SEXES-ARIDITY OF THE COUNTRY-CROPS-ANIMALS-RETURN
OF SURVEYING PARTY TO THE VINCENNES VISITS OF THE INHABITANTS TO THE
SHIP MARTINEZ FAMILY - AMUSEMENTS -CAPTAIN RICHARDSON-VALLEY OF
NAPPA-TOWN OF ZONOMA-GENERAL VALLEJO - MISSION OF SAN RAFAEL-FETE
IN HONOUR OF A SAINT-BEAR AND BULL FIGHT-EXCURSION TO SANTA CLARA-
EMBARCADERO-ESTANCIA OF PERALTOS-DON MIGUEL DE PEDRORENA-MISSION
OF SANTA CLARA-PADRE MERCADOR-CHURCH OF SANTA CLARA-GARDEN-PUEBLO
OF SAN JOSE-ITS ALCALDE - MODE OF CONDUCTING BUSINESS IN CALIFORNIA -
DIFFICULTY IN PROCURING HORSES-DEPARTURE FROM SANTA CLARA-CALIFOR-
NIAN HORSEMAN-RANCHEROS-LAS PULGAS-ESTANCIA OF SEÑOR SANCHEZ-YERBA
BUENA-RETURN TO THE SHIP.
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