grants of land to foreigners, have been great; but such grants can never be carried into effect without endangering the very existence of the government and people. In all cases that came within my knowledge on the islands, the object of the majority of foreign residents was solely to increase their own wealth; and on the accumulation of a sufficient amount, they withdraw from the islands, taking their capital with them; and this will always be the case. So far, therefore, as their influence goes, instead of enriching the islanders, their exertions have in some degree had a contrary effect, and the result does not justify those engaged in mercantile pursuits, in attributing the advancement of the islands to themselves; on the contrary, they leave very little but evil habits and vices behind them. Few foreigners have made any permanent improvements, and when they have, they pass into the hands of others, to the exclusion of the natives, who are looked upon and treated as slaves.

It is impossible for a disinterested person to reside any time among these natives, without imbibing a strong interest in the progress of their institutions, and the developement of their government. In the Hawaiians are seen many things to condemn; but they have, on the other hand, many good qualities, which their religious instructors are endeavouring by every means in their power to foster and develope. In taking leave of them, I cannot recall a single instance in which they did not conduct themselves towards us with a full belief that they were acting right; and I feel rejoiced to say, that during all our intercourse with them, no incident occurred to mar the harmony which existed on our first arrival. I am, indeed, fully persuaded that with proper attention and forbearance no difficulties will ever occur. One thing, however, ought always to be borne in mind on visiting this island, viz., that too much credit must not be given to those who will on your first arrival endeavour to impress on you their own views of the character of the people, and of those who have been their benefactors, and are constant in their exertions to promote the welfare of those they live among. The natives and the latter class are far better able to judge what the islands require or stand in need of than any casual visiter, or he who may be a sojourner only for a few weeks.

I shall always think with pleasure and satisfaction of the many friends we left here; and I am fully satisfied, that, with few exceptions, and those growing out of a mistaken zeal, our country has just reason to be proud of the advance these islanders have made within the last twenty-five years in civilization, morals, and religion, an ad

vance that has been almost wholly the work of our citizens, either at home or abroad, the one in furnishing the means, the other in giving the instruction.

The Expedition had become so much identified with the history of these islands during our stay, that we were made familiar with all the village scandal. Few who live in such small places are aware how unfavourable an impression they make upon visiters, and the bad light in which they appear, by this habit of talking of each other; whatever may be the terms on which they associate together, or however discordant the materials of which the society is composed, they would do well to avoid showing their uncharitable feelings, or making use of detraction to create a bias against others.

On the afternoon of the 27th November, the squadron being prepared, we took leave of our kind friends, and particularly of those belonging to the mission, to whom I feel under many obligations for their uniform kindness to us. We then joined our vessels, and at 8 P. M. took our final leave of the Hawaiian Islands.

At midnight, signal was made to heave-to, in order that I might finish the instructions for the different vessels. Although it was out of my power to visit Japan, I had determined if possible to ascertain the character of the currents off that island. I therefore directed the Porpoise and Oregon to follow out, and explore the shoals and reefs extending in a west-northwest direction from the Hawaiian Islands,* and proceed until they fell in with the current or stream that is supposed by some to set along the coasts of Japan, and resemble the Gulf Stream off our own coast. This done, they were ordered to proceed through the China Seas, to Singapore, in the Straits of Malacca.

With the Vincennes and tender it was my intention to proceed to Strong's and Ascension Islands, which the Peacock had been unable to reach in her cruise, examining every shoal that might lie in my way, and thence to Manilla. I proposed on leaving that port to explore and survey the Sooloo Archipelago, then proceeding to Singapore to meet the brigs, fill up with provisions, and thence sail for the United States, where it was incumbent on me to arrive by the 31st of May following. This, agreeably to my promise to my crew a year previous, left me just six months to perform the duty, of which at least one hundred and forty days were required for the actual passage.

We parted company from the brigs the next day at noon, and bore away under all sail to the southward and westward. At 4 P. M., the

* For the instructions of Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, see Appendix X.

Flying-Fish made the signal "in want of assistance;" and on coming within hail, reported that her mainmast was sprung. Carpenters were at once sent on board, who reported that the mast was quite sound: the vessels were reduced to easy sail for the night in order to keep in company, as I intended in the morning, when the sea should have decreased, to have a farther examination of it.

I had now the prospect of another obstacle, in the delays this vessel must occasion me with a sprung mast, if such should prove to be the case, which I could, however, scarcely bring myself to believe. In order to secure an examination of the Sooloo Sea, which was a part of my original instructions, I determined to give Mr. Knox orders to act by himself, in case I found it necessary to push at once to Manilla and avoid detention, directing him to touch at Strong's and Ascension Islands, and to part company if she proved to be sound in her spars after a few days' trial, which the sea and wind then prevailing would fully prove. As soon as I came to this conclusion, Mr. Knox was sent for, Assistant-Surgeon Whittle, a carpenter, and two extra men ordered to join the tender, and my instructions relative to his proceedings, which will be found in Appendix XI., fully explained to him. On the 30th, we parted company with her, being in the latitude of Maloon's Island, and one hundred and ten miles due east of it: I steered a west course through the night under easy sail. At daylight sail was again made, and by noon we found the ship, by good observations, in latitude 19° 19' N., longitude 165° 25' W. The supposed position of the island being in latitude 19° 20′ N., and longitude 165° 20′ W., we had consequently passed directly over the place, with the weather so clear as to render all objects within a radius of fifteen miles perfectly distinct, and with two look-outs at the masthead, yet no signs of land were visible. I continued in its latitude until we had passed seventy miles to the westward, when we steered for another island, laid down in Arrowsmith's charts in longitude 166° 48′ W., and latitude 19° 17′ N. On its parallel, we ran for sixty miles east and west of the assigned place; but in like manner, there was nothing perceived that indicated any proximity to land.

On the 3d of December, we ran over the locality of a shoal, lying in 170° 30′ W., and latitude 18° 20' N. This was likewise searched for, over a space of sixty miles east and west of its supposed locality.

Jane's Island, supposed to be in longitude 173° 15′ W., latitude 16° 10' N., was next searched for. In doing this, I was greatly surprised to find that we had entered a strong current setting to the northward and westward. Our difference of latitude showed 24', and we were at once compelled to haul up to the southward, to reach the supposed

locality of the island. We passed about five miles to the westward of its place, but no sign of land was seen. This was the first day since leaving Oahu, that we were able to write with any degree of comfort, the sea having become perfectly smooth.

I was at first disposed to doubt the accuracy of the observations for latitude, but the next day (5th December) proved them to be correct, nearly the same difference having occurred.

On the 6th, we reached the position of Gaspar Island, in latitude 15° N., and as the different localities assigned it varied considerably in ongitude, I determined to run on its parallel until I had passed them all.

On the 7th, we dropped a day, passing into east longitude. Our winds had become light, varying from the east to the southwest quarters, and it was generally calm throughout the night, so that we made little progress.

On the 10th, the current was found setting west-southwest three quarters of a mile, both by the difference of the observations, and the current-log. The pot, at this time, was seen at thirty-two fathoms depth, several fathoms lower than at any previous observation. The temperature of the water was 81°, the day fine, and beautifully clear.

We continued on the parallel of latitude 15° N. until the 14th, when we found ourselves in the longitude of 174° 50′ E., having passed over all the localities assigned the island, between longitude 175° W. and 174° 20′ E. I am fully satisfied that it does not exist within those meridians.

Having been thus retarded, the fear I entertained of meeting with light, and in all probability, westerly winds, determined me to forego my visit to Strong's and Ascension Islands, and haul to the northward, to look for some of the many shoals laid down on the track usually pursued by ships bound to the China Seas.

After this determination was made, I hauled up for an island said to exist in longitude 171° 42′ E., and latitude 16° N. On the night of the 15th we hove-to in order to run over the locality by daylight. This position was passed over, and forty miles to the westward of it explored, but nothing indicating a proximity to land was seen. The supposed site of Cornwallis Island, in longitude 169° 33′ E., and latitude 16° 51′ N., was in like manner passed over.

Wake's Island next claimed my attention. On the 19th we reached its parallel, and hove-to till daylight of the 20th, when we discovered it, bearing west-by-north, about nine miles distant. The wind was light from the north-northeast. After breakfast, several boats were sent to survey the island. Wake's Island is a low coral one, of triangular form, and eight feet above the surface. It has a large lagoon

in the centre, which was well filled with fish of a variety of species; among these were some fine mullet. There is no fresh water on the island, and neither pandanus nor cocoa-nut trees. It has upon it the shrubs which are usually found on the low islands of the Pacific, the most abundant of which was the Tournefortia. Mr. Peale found here the short-tailed albatross, and procured an egg from its nest. The birds were quite tame, although they were not so numerous as we had before met with on uninhabited islands.

The time of low water took place at one o'clock, and the moon entered its last quarter on the same day: the tide was setting along the shore of the island with much strength to the westward; the rise and fall was three feet. From appearances, the island must be at times submerged, or the sea makes a complete breach over it; the appearance of the coral blocks and of all the vegetation leads to this conclusion, for they have a very decided inclination to the eastward, showing also that the violent winds or rush of the water, when the island is covered, are from the westward. The reef around this island is very small in extent. The position of Wake's Island was found by my observations of equal altitudes on shore to be in longitude 166° 31′ 30′′ E., and latitude 19° 10' 54" N.

By four o'clock, P. M., all the boats had returned on board, when we filled away and proceeded on our course to the westward. Although these coral islands resemble one another very strongly, yet they afforded us some recreation for a few hours, and much satisfaction in obtaining series of observations in magnetism. Our visit to Wake's Island gave us an opportunity of adding to our collections in natural history.

In the evening we steered to pass over the position of Halcyon Island, longitude 163° 30' E., latitude 19° 13′ N.; and on the 27th, we passed immediately over its locality, and had run on its supposed parallel fifty miles on each side of it, but nothing was seen of it. We now felt the current to the southeast twelve miles in the twenty-four hours.

Folger's Island next claimed my attention: it is said to lie in longitude 155° 19′ E., latitude 18° 21' N. This position was passed over, but the inquiry resulted as the others had, in a fruitless search.

I now bore away for Grigan, the northernmost of the inhabited Ladrone or Marian Islands, which we made on the 29th December, at 7 A. M., bearing south-southwest. As we approached these islands, we had experienced a strong current to the northward and westward; and the wind had also veered to the southward and westward.

At midnight, we discovered the island of Assumption, bearing northeast-by-east.