was pretending to read his sacred book, which our gentlemen discovered was a volume of the Rambler! This was obtained from him, by Mr. Agate, in exchange for a treatise on rail-roads, which had a flashy red cover, and therefore calculated to inspire his flock with additional reverence for their priest. He also made use of a kind of gibberish in talking to them, wishing, as was supposed, to give his followers the idea that he could speak the Papalangis' language. How he had contrived to propitiate the anger of the old chief Lelomiava, was not ascertained; but a story was told of him, that about a year before he had lost his two wives, and disappeared, informing his followers he was going to heaven to procure a third. He absented himself about a week, no one being informed where he had gone. On his return without a wife, he was asked where she was. His reply was, that the Great Spirit had told him that he was too old to marry a young wife, and must return to his people, who would take care of him, provide him with food, and do for him all that a wife could do. He accordingly returned, in obedience to the Spirit's directions, and appears to live contented, all his wants being supplied without any care or trouble to himself. One of the most ridiculous parts of this fellow's proceedings, was a native bringing to him an old tea-kettle, which was tabooed and held sacred, on which he began beating with an iron knife, making much noise, his face assuming a contemplative expression, until he had done with his mummeries. Strange as it may seem, he has many proselytes, and nearly all the inhabitants of the district of Sagana are followers of his doctrine. Their appearance contrasts very strongly with that of the Christian villages, while the heathens are, to appearance, almost a different race of people; the one with long hair, gathered in a knot on the top of the head, and only clothed in the maro; the other with short hair, and dressed in a clean shirt and pareu. To strangers, both are generally kind and hospitable, and continue the Samoan custom of offering food to travellers as they pass through the village..

Since our visit in 1839, Mr. Day had taken up his residence within two miles of Malietoa's town, where Mr. Hale and Dr. Whittle spent an hour or two with him, and proceeded thence to visit Malietoa. Near the new church, the house of Mole was pointed out, in which he had adopted many of the conveniences introduced by foreigners: the floor of his house was of boards, raised above the ground, and his doors were made to turn on hinges. The interior was divided by partitions. into four rooms. A table and some rude seats composed the furniture. How far this example will be followed by the natives, time alone can determine. I believe that all those who have examined and reflected upon the condition of the natives of the South Sea islands, will be satis

fied that it will be a very desirable improvement, both for their comfort and health, if they can be induced to abandon their modes of sleeping on the damp ground; and some endeavours have already been made to effect a change in this respect, as one of the best means to prevent the diseases of the climate, which are thought to arise principally from this

cause.

These gentlemen also visited Malietoa, who was still occupying the same small house, directly opposite to the fale-tele, in which I saw him during my visit. On entering, they were greeted by his two wives, the matronly Lauilupa, and Siona, the younger, both of whom still maintained their fleshy appearance. They recognised Mr. Hale, and gave him a warm greeting. The old king, who had been sleeping on his divan or raised floor, now came forward. He appeared greatly changed, and was scarcely to be recognised as the same person. Instead of his dignified and upright carriage, which struck us all so much at our former visit, his form had become meagre and shrunken, and he was apparently bowed down with years, and trembling with infirmities.

He saluted our gentlemen with his usual courtesy, and, after seating himself, listened to the account of their visit, and of the news at Apia. He still retained much of his former air of command and sternness, which caused him to be likened by Dr. Whittle to a sick lion. He was unable to sit up long, and was soon again asleep. Old Lauilupa now entertained them by complaining of her sufferings from rheumatism, which Dr. Whittle gave her directions how to treat.

The two wives began, in a short time, to beg for presents—the elder one for needles and thread, the younger for jews-harps, rings, and looking-glasses. These were promised, on their sending to the ship for them. They supplied their guests with food, which was served on an eating-mat, and consisted of pork, fish, taro, and yams. The queens sat by, pointing out the choicest bits, and, had not our gentlemen declined the honour, seemed disposed to use their royal fingers for its conveyance to their mouths.

In the evening, they took a stroll around the village, where every house was found lighted up with a cocoanut-oil lamp, or a torch of the candle-nut, strung upon a stick, and some with the fire of dry cocoanut leaves. In each house a family circle was usually seen, variously employed, some eating, some talking, others braiding sennit, but no amusements; for it was Saturday evening, and they were preparing for the Sabbath. Wherever they went, they were received with civility, and invited to eat.

Returning to Malietoa, another meal was found provided for them,

after which they were taken to a neighbouring house, which had been prepared as their sleeping apartment.

In the morning, they were awakened early by a little boy, who brought them water for washing, which showed an attention to their comforts scarcely to have been expected among those who are considered as only half civilized.

When they rose in the morning, although but a little after sunrise, they found the natives already collected, at morning prayers, in the church, under the ministration of Mole; and, after the service was finished, they were invited to breakfast with him.

The return for Malietoa's hospitality was now to be made, prior to their departure; and all they had, consisted of but a few small articles; but these were joyfully received, with many thanks; and our gentlemen took their leave, and returned to the ship.

Subsequently to this, Mr. Hale made a visit to the village of Matafayatele, where he was fortunate in being a witness to a little festival, called "faausi." A procession of about twenty men issued from at grove, bearing on their shoulders large wooden trays, shaped like shallow troughs. They were all dressed in gala-dresses, having wreaths of leaves and flowers about the neck and breast, with plumes of sugarcane blossoms in their hair. They marched forward in quick time, to a lively song, which they sang in unison, until they reached the faletele, where a crowd appeared to be expecting them. In the house there were thirty or forty elderly men, seated around the sides, while in the centre a number of youths were busy in serving to each a mess of food from the trays. The chief who was the head of the feast, was recognised by Mr. Hale as having been named Tongipavo on our former visit, which name, he was informed, had been exchanged for that of Benjamin, since his conversion to Christianity. He gave Mr. Hale a seat near him, and ordered a mess of food to be served. It proved to be mashed taro, mixed with grated cocoa-nut and soaked in cocoanut-oil. The whole had been wrapped in banana-leaves and cooked. Mr. Hale found it quite palatable, and somewhat like cold mush fried in butter. After those present had satisfied their hunger, each wrapped up a portion of it in banana-leaves, to carry to his family. The whole was a pleasing sight, exhibiting one of the social customs of their primitive mode of life.

The surveying boats having returned, and the ship having replenished her stores of wood and water, and finished the repairs, Captain Hudson prepared for his departure, having determined to proceed to Saluafata Harbour.

As their time of departure had become known, and it drew near,

their friends and acquaintances of rank did not omit to pay them frequent visits. Among these was old Pea of Apia, Mole, and others. These calls ought to have been termed begging visits, as they seldom saw a thing that pleased them that they did not ask for. Mole brought a complaint to Captain Hudson, of an outrage by a white vagabond on shore; but it was shrewdly suspected that, notwithstanding his being a missionary teacher, his design was to get more presents from his parting friends.

On the 23d, Captain Hudson was visited by Matetau, the celebrated war-chief of Manono. In coming to the ship, he and his numerous retinue were overtaken by a violent shower of rain, which completely wet them. As the old chief was somewhat chilled and cold, Captain Hudson supplied him with a clean and dry shirt. He professed himself delighted; all was "very good," captain, officers, and ship. His visit, like that of all the other chiefs, was evidently to receive his quantum of presents, and hence his desire to make himself as agreeable as possible. His features were more strongly marked than those of the islanders usually are; he is above the middle size, has an aquiline nose, and a high and retreating forehead, with the frontal portion narrow, but widening behind the ears, having, as some thought, a strong resemblance to the chiefs of New Zealand. Mr. Agate succeeded in getting a good sketch of him.

He adopted the usual Samoan custom of pleasing by flattery, grimaces, and gesticulations, enacting, as was thought, a fight. He had picked up a few words of English, which he did not fail to make use of to attract attention. Owing to the necessity of getting under wa