temperature throughout the year is 671°. The extremes vary 10° above and as much below the mean. It is classed by its inhabitants under the warm and equable climates; yet, notwithstanding, in many situations, it is extremely variable: the thermometer will fluctuate ten degrees in as many minutes, producing an unpleasant sensation of cold; this is owing to the chilly winds that sweep down from the Table Mountain in blasts, to equalize the density of the atmosphere rarefied by being in contact with the heated soil beneath. But little difference is observed between the temperature of sunshine and shade in free and open situations.

This variation of climate is ascribed to the winds: the southeast winds prevail for the most part of the year, and are warm; these are succeeded by the cold winterly winds, which invariably bring fog and misty weather; but in viewing the situation of the Cape with respect to the large bodies of water flowing past it, it would seem more reasonable to impute it to the warm tropical and cold polar currents of water, of whose existence we have given ample proof in the preceding pages; for if the winds were alone to be taken into account, that which comes from the southeast, in the southern hemisphere, ought to produce the cold, while the west and northwesterly winds should be warm. The sudden changes of temperature mentioned above are merely local, and often confined within narrow limits.

At our anchorage in the bay this occurrence was strikingly perceptible, not only by the thermometer but from the effect produced on our own feelings; while in the town, although the change could be felt, still it was not so remarkable. The inhabitants assert that these changes occur oftenest during the prevalence of a strong southeast wind; but my own experience leads me to believe that they take place during the night, and particularly when a calm prevails, or but a slight breeze is blowing, and indeed all the facts connected with it would lead me to the opinion that such must be the case. Although all seem to be aware of these variations of temperature, I did not learn of any observations that have been taken that could be relied on for accuracy.

Thermometers in different parts of the town, of course, give very discordant results, and all meteorological observations ought to be taken in situations as far as possible removed from the influence of these changes. The southeast winds are often so violent as to prevent communication between the shipping and the shore during some parts of the day, and often cause damage to the small boats, or to the vessels themselves. Cargoes can only be taken in or discharged with safety in the morning, previous to the occurrence of these winds.

Before concluding my remarks on the climate of the Cape, it is necessary to advert to the curious effects of refraction that are often observed. A strange distortion of objects is frequently seen, and even at a short distance from Robben's Island the surf sometimes appears to be thrown up into lofty jets of foam, or a wave is so distorted that it seems rolling in high enough to submerge the whole island. These distortions occur not only in the sea but in the land view. I noticed them during our visit to the observatory, and now call attention to them again, because the same effect seems to be produced on sea or on land by contrary causes. When at sea, refractions have been observed by us, whenever the thermometer at the masthead showed a higher degree of temperature than that at the surface of the water; but at the Cape the current of air in contact with the heated and sandy soil must be of a higher temperature than that immediately above it, and thus causes the distortion of distant objects; or the fact may be accounted for on the supposition of two parallel currents of different temperatures, moving in opposite directions, and beyond any immediate influence of the earth. I know of no place so favourable to the observation of this description of atmospheric phenomena as the Cape and its vicinity.

The population of the Cape colony, by the returns in 1841, was one hundred and fifty-three thousand, on an area of one hundred and nine thousand eight hundred and sixty-four square miles. The deaths amount annually to about one in forty. The coloured population exceeds the white by about ten thousand. A table containing the last statistical returns will be found in Appendix XV. Landed estates in the colony are generally held by those cultivating them, under a lease, and not in fee. The early settlers had not sufficient funds to enable them to purchase as large farms as were necessary, and the present system was in consequence resorted to. The leases, however, were made perpetual, and the farms held under this tenure are known in the colony as "Loan Farms;" they contain about three square miles, and there are many of this description still existing: these are considered as desirable tenures, being good as long as the rent is regularly paid, which is generally at the low rate of ten dollars for the tract. The lands, however, about the Cape, and in the Cape district, were obtained by grants, and are now known as "Gratuity Farms."

There are likewise freehold estates, which consist of a small farm, not much exceeding one hundred acres. These, I was told, were in the immediate vicinity of Cape Town. They were usually obtained by purchase of the first settlers.

The system of quit-rents is in perpetuity, and the rent is made to

depend upon the quality and circumstances of the crop. These are the .argest kind of estates, and seldom include less than five to eight thousand acres.

The sale or transfer of land was also novel to us. No land can be sold, unless the persons make application at the Cape, to officers appointed, called commissioners, whose duty it is to see that all liens on the land, such as bonds and mortgages, are all paid up; and the liabilities are fully protected; and the person wishing to sell must have permission of the one who may hold any claim on the estate, before he can legally. dispose of his property; and the consent of the mortgagee must be obtained in writing before the debt can be transferred with the property.

The day previous to our departure, I had the pleasure of again meeting Captain Belcher, who was now on his way home in the Sulphur. He had just arrived with his ship in Simon's Bay, where the English men-of-war anchor, as Her Majesty's dockyard is situated there it is considered a safer harbour than Table Bay; but from what I heard of its conveniences, it seems ill adapted for a place to refit; and, indeed, I was told that this is seldom attempted. Our stay was not sufficiently long to enable any of us to visit it, and little inducement appeared to be held out to go there by those under whose guidance we had placed ourselves. Having transacted all our business, and finished our necessary observations, we prepared for departure. Before taking leave of the Cape, I must be permitted, in the name of myself and of the officers of the Expedition, again to tender our warmest thanks for the attention paid us by many gentlemen, who afforded us many facilities in the acquisition of information or the pursuit of pleasure. Among those to whom we were chiefly indebted for these kindnesses, were our consul, Isaac Chase, Esq., and Messrs. Thompson and Pillars.

Supplies of all kinds can be obtained at the Cape, and usually at reasonable prices; the bread we purchased, made from native flour, was of excellent quality; fruit also, though considered out of season by the inhabitants, could be purchased in any quantity, either in the markets or from the bumboats alongside of the vessels. The usual facilities for watering are rather deficient: there are no floating tanks, and some inconvenience results from the use of casks.

On the 17th, we got under way with a light and baffling wind. The air was from the eastward aloft, while a westerly breeze blowing below it, often took our lower sails aback; still the upper ones were full. By constant attention and frequent swinging of the yards, we effected a passage through the northern channel, passing at a short distance from

Robben's Island, on whose shore we saw, as usual, the breaking surf curiously refracted.

Robben's Island is now used as a place of confinement for criminals, who are employed in the quarries to furnish stone for paving and building. The stone is a schistus, and commonly known at the Cape as blue flag.

As we cleared the island, objects to seaward were seen refracted in a manner that I had never before observed so distinctly. As before stated, there was an upper and an under current in the atmosphere, and these strata were of different temperature. The thermometer at the masthead marking 73°, while that on the deck stood at no more than 59°. A ship about three miles distant in the offing, was seen vertically and horizontally refracted at the same time. Her courses and topsails appeared ill-defined, shapeless, and quivering; her bowsprit and head-spars formed curves, while her jib and flying-jib were drawn out in nearly horizontal lines. Above, her topgallant-sails and royals were seen perfectly well defined; a distinct line of bluish haze divided them from the lower sails, and could be traced to about sixty degrees on each side, until it joined with the horizon.

A signal made by this ship at the time, showed in faint colours, as

if flying from her peak and fore-topsailyard at the same time. The annexed wood-cut, from a sketch made at the time, will give a better idea of this appearance.

The angle subtended between the line of haze and the horizon, was twenty-five minutes.

The temperature of the water was often tried: it was found to stand at about the same temperature as when we entered on soundings, varying little from 64°. After running off about thirty miles from the coast, the temperature of the air rose to the same point.

On the 19th, Joseph Sylva (boy), died of phthisis. He had been long lingering, and was apparently affected with the disease when taken on board at Oahu, a few months previously.

We now shaped our course for St. Helena, which I was desirous of reaching at the earliest day, in order to intercept the two brigs, and if a further supply of bread could be obtained there, to proceed with them directly for the United States.

Our passage to St. Helena was of the ordinary length, thirteen days; we had very light winds and a smooth sea, indicating that a long calm had existed. Northerly currents generally prevailed, though at times.

setting to the eastward and westward of that point. On the 30th of April, in the latitude of 23° S., and longitude 2° 40′ E., we entered the trades, from which time until our arrival at St. Helena on the 1st of May, we experienced no currents.

The appearance of the island disappointed us: its height and size were much less than we anticipated. It is but a bare and barren rock, rising abruptly from the sea; and the only thing remarkable is the succession of batteries, which are seen occupying every nook and corner where cannon could be placed, from the water-line to the highest peak. All now serve but to recall to mind the extraordinary man for whose safe-keeping so much cost and care had been bestowed. From the outward view of St. Helena, it seems scarcely necessary to have incurred so much expense and provided such means for the safekeeping of Napoleon; for the island itself is almost inaccessible on all sides; its bare rocks rising several hundred feet perpendicularly from the water. To reach the roadstead it is necessary to pass within a short distance of the rocks, and close along them until the valley of Jamestown is reached, which offers the only anchorage. Here it is often difficult to procure a good berth, as the roadstead is frequently crowded with vessels.

On our arrival we were informed that the Porpoise and Oregon had sailed but a short time previously; all were well, and their stay at the island had been short. Six American ships were at anchor in the roadstead when we arrived, and three more came in the day after, making in all ten ships and a schooner bearing the flag of our own country.

In addition to these were two English and one Swedish vessel, and a Dutch sloop of war. Several captured slavers, all of which had Deen condemned, were seen, either partly broken up, or lying on shore preparatory to that process; and one, a Baltimore clipper, captured under Portuguese colours, was fitting as a British cruiser, to be employed against vessels in the same nefarious traffic.

Soon after anchoring, we were visited by our consul, Mr. Carrol, who offered us every assistance; he made arrangements for procuring us a supply of water, and a party for that purpose was permitted to remain on shore all night at the jetty. This is the only place at which either passengers or goods can be landed: it is furnished with suitable cranes and stairs; but even with these, it is not well adapted for the accommodation of visiters or trade. Precautions have been evidently taken to discourage a landing; a small guard is always kept on duty at the guardhouse and drawbridge. From the landing-place a narrow road leads along the face of the perpendicular cliff, towards the gate