island, and were unacquainted with the accident that had happened; but on being informed of it, they made every endeavour to explain that they did not belong to the guilty town. There are fourteen towns on the island, as follows, beginning at the north, viz.:

Basing the calculation for the population of these towns on that of Utiroa, which is estimated at from one thousand to one thousand two hundred, it would give this small strip of land as great, if not a greater number of inhabitants per square mile, than any portion of the globe that relies upon its own resources for subsistence.

The four northern towns are apparently united together, and hostile to the southern ones. Between Eta and Utiroa there is a considerable space uninhabited, which appears to form a line of separation between their territories.

Captain Hudson made up his mind that there could be little doubt, after so much time had elapsed without intelligence, and taking into view the conduct of the Utiroans, that Anderson had been treacherously murdered. He therefore believed it to be a paramount duty to punish them, not only for this perfidious act, but to secure their good conduct hereafter, in case of other vessels touching at this island.

In consequence of this determination, the boats were prepared for landing, and Mr. Knox was ordered to anchor the tender in a position near the shore opposite the town, in order to protect them.

The boat expedition, consisting of Lieutenants Emmons, Perry, and De Haven, Passed Midshipmen Davis and Harrison, and Mr. Freeman, the sailmaker, was put under charge of Mr. Walker, the firstlieutenant of the ship, and particular instructions given to him relative to his conduct. These will be found in Appendix III. Messrs. Peale, Hale, and Agate, accompanied the expedition.

The expedition consisted of seven boats; in them were embarked

about eighty officers and men. About nine o'clock they approached the town. The first object that attracted attention was a column of smoke arising from the small building that stood on piles in front of the town before spoken of. On arriving near the beach, the three divisions formed in a line abreast, according to the directions. Lieutenant Walker, with Mr. Hale, (who acted as interpreter,) now showed the white flag, and pulled in toward the beach in front, in order to hold a parley, make further inquiries relative to Anderson, and endeavour to have him given up, if alive. There were about five hundred natives, well armed, on the beach, and others were constantly coming in from all sides they shouted and shook their weapons with threatening gestures. Many of them, however, seemed undecided how to act; and their whole appearance, though formidable enough, was yet quite ludicrous in the eyes of the men, equipped as the savages were in their cumbrous coats of mail and fish-skin helmets.

As the boat approached, several of the natives advanced towards it, preceded by a chief fully equipped in armour, and holding a spear in his right hand. Mr. Hale then explained the object they had in view, and showed the large quantity of tobacco which they had brought for a ransom. The chief appeared to understand, and pointed to the shore, making signs at the same time for them to come in. The savages who attended the chief had now increased in numbers, and were close to the boat, while the whole body was advancing slowly forwards. Finding that it was not only useless but dangerous to continue the parley, the boat was pulled back into line.

Having thus failed to procure the desired end, the most humane manner of effecting their punishment was conceived to be at once to show them the power of our arms, and sacrifice some of the most prominent among the savages. Lieutenant Walker, therefore, requested Mr. Peale, the best shot of the party, to give them a proof of it, and thus prevent the farther effusion of blood. This was accordingly done by singling out one of the foremost, and a rocket was also discharged, which took its flight towards the great body of them. The latter missile caused great confusion, and many of them turned to seek the shore, but their terror did not last long, and they made another stand, brandishing their spears and weapons as if bent upon a trial of strength with their opponents; the falling of their chiefs was disregarded, and few seemed to consider the effects produced, except those who were wounded. A general volley soon followed, which caused them all to retreat, some in great haste, while others moved more slowly towards the shore, seeming to be but little impressed

as to the character of our arms. The wounded and dead were all carried off. The boats now pushed in for the beach, and by the time they had reached it, there was not a native of the whole host to be seen.

The three divisions then landed, and the first and second proceeded to fire the mariapa and town, while the third remained to guard the boats. The whole was soon in a blaze, and but a short time sufficed to reduce it to ashes. The natives were still to be seen in small parties, out of reach of the guns, among the cocoa-nut groves. After the work of destruction had been effected, the divisions again returned to the boats. The place now exhibited a very different picture from that it had presented only a short hour before. The blackened sites were all that remained of the former dwellings, the council-house was entirely in ashes, the fences were torn down, and the cocoa-nut trees leafless.

The tide having fallen, three bodies were found, one of whom was the young chief who had been so troublesome and insolent to our gentlemen, and who it was believed had been active in the murder of poor Anderson.

While the party were getting ready to embark, a small party of natives were seen coming towards them from Eta; these were all unarmed, and had cocoa-nut leaves and mats tied round their necks: they had come to assure our party of their good-will, and their joy at the destruction of Utiroa. One old man in particular repeated frequently his assurances, with much laughter and many grimaces. No sooner had they ascertained that the intentions towards them were not hostile, than they began to pillage the burning town.

The number of houses destroyed was supposed to be about three hundred, besides upwards of a dozen large canoes. The loss of life was twelve on the part of the natives: there was no one injured on our side.

From the fact that the natives had left every thing in their dwellings, it was clear that they did not anticipate the fate that was to befall them; that they were in hopes of being able to cut off our boats, and perhaps flattered themselves with the prospect of an indiscriminate plunder. This would be in perfect accordance with their customs and constant practice of attempting to cut off all vessels or boats that may visit their islands. Although I have no reason to come to this conclusion from our own knowledge respecting this island, yet from all the accounts of those who have resided some time among like savages, their first idea is always to capture or possess themselves of

the vessel or any of the boats. We have seen that this is put in practice among the Feejees, and others, who regard all vessels wrecked as sent to them as a gift from the gods.

Very few articles escaped the general conflagration, but of these some were brought off to the ship; among which were two skulls, that had been well polished and cleaned. These were found in the loft of one of their houses, and had evidently been preserved, with great care, as relics.

There are but few domestic animals on this island: a dog, two or three cats, and a few fowls, were all that were seen. Rats are in abundance, as has been shown by the care the natives take to protect their lofts from these very troublesome creatures.

The food of the inhabitants consists principally of fish, cocoa-nuts, the fruit of the pandanus, taro, and api; to these may be added tobacco. They have but few modes of dressing these articles. The fruit of the pandanus they use as food, which was considered by the natives as a great delicacy; it may be said to be exceedingly coarse, so much so, that the fibres of the pandanus are seen in their excrement in great quantities; even the husks of the young cocoa-nuts

are eaten.

No land-birds were seen but curlews, golden plovers, turnstones, noddies, and white terns; many whales' bones were strewed over the beach.

This was the first place where they had observed the Tridachna gigas: they were of enormous size; the natives used them for troughs, for many purposes, around their houses.

Necklaces of human teeth were also prized, and brought off for

sale.

During the day of the 9th, the thermometer stood in the sun at 159° Fahrenheit.

that we

The character of these islanders is the most savage of any met with; their ferocity led to the belief that they were cannibals, although no positive proofs were seen of it. They are under no control whatever, and possess little of the characteristic hospitality usually found in savage nations. It was observed also that their treatment of each other exhibited a great want of feeling, and in many instances, passions and propensities indicative of the lowest state of barbarism. Their young girls were offered to be disposed of, by their fathers and brothers, alongside the ship, openly, and without concealment; and to drive a bargain for them, was one of the principal objects of their visits to the ship.

Among their weapons, they have a short spear, which is armed with

F

7

half a dozen barbs from the tail of the raja or stingray, which is supposed to prove mortal, if broken off in the wound. They have also a club, about four feet long, made from the cocoanut-wood, which is . pointed at each end; it is used for warding off a spear, to make a thrust, or wielded as a club.

In the use of tobacco, they are truly disgusting, for they eat it and swallow it, with a zest and pleasure indescribable. Their whole mind seems bent upon obtaining this luxury, and consequently it will command their most valuable articles.

They are, to all appearance, a lawless race, and no sort of government seems to control them; all seize upon whatever property they can, and, as has been before mentioned, the very chiefs themselves were subject to the same treatment that they observed towards our party; the greatest villains and bullies among them seemed to have the most control; while the chiefs had little more than nominal authority, and if they had any privileges, they did not seem to extend beyond their small enclosures.

There is neither wood nor water to be obtained at this island, and no inducement to visit it, except to trade for a few cocoa-nuts and curiosities.

Good whaling-ground exists in the vicinity, and our whalemen are in the habit of cruising in this neighbourhood: those who visit these wretches ought to keep a constant guard against treachery, for their numbers are large, and they are prone to mischief. All intercourse with them should, therefore, be conducted with great caution, especially in ships weakly manned.

It is to be hoped that the punishment inflicted on Utiroa for the murder of Anderson will be long remembered, and prove a salutary lesson to the numerous and thickly-peopled towns of Taputeouea, or Drummond's Island.

On the same evening, (the 9th,) they weighed anchor, and on the next day made Bishop's or Sydenham Island, which they surveyed the following day.

Off the north point of Bishop's Island, there is a shoal extending one and a half miles to the northward and westward, the water on which is discoloured, and where the Peacock found nine fathoms. The native name for Bishop's or Sydenham Island, is Nanouti; it lies in latitude 00° 36′ S., and longitude 174° 24' E.; it is of coral formation, and mere ledge of land, like Drummond's Island, with a lagoon, reef, and bank, on its lee or southwest side. The survey made it nineteen miles long, trending northwest and southeast, and its width, including lagoon and reef, eight and a half miles. On the southwest and northwest