The Georgetown was a man of pleasing manners, but the other, though a perfect boor, had the best of the argument. The first praised the talents, the long and faithful services of Mr. Crawford; the yankee opposed the sound judgment, the head to contrive, the skill to direct, and tried experience of Mr. Adams, and gained a complete victory over his opponent. The Frenchman took no part in the discussion, but sat with his arms folded upon his breast. The lady and myself exchanged a few remarks upon the appearance of the country: she was a handsome female, but had a sting in her countenance withal. These Quakers, it seems, were going to a great Quaker meeting, which was to be held at Baltimore the ensuing week.

The day was fine, and the road excellent, being a turnpike the whole way. Our way lay through Bladensburg, rendered famous in history by the battle fought there between the British and Americans. I passed over the battle ground, which lies on that side of Bladensburg next to Washington, upon a perfect plane. Bladensburg, one of the oldest towns in Maryland, is nothing but a small village, going to decay. It lies on the Eastern Branch, which, as already observed, is only a small creek at this place, which we crossed by a bridge, below which we saw a few small schooners. The land is generally level, but very poor, being mostly worn out and abandoned to the pine and sedge-grass, resembling the old fields of Virginia. We saw, however, a few well looking country seats during the journey. My fellowtravellers observed that the road lay through the poorest part of the country, and that there was excellent land in many parts of the state.

We dined at a tavern on the road, called Waterlooand here the Virginian (alias Georgetown) and myself were gratified with a dinner to our taste-I mean ham and greens. There was, besides, a savoury turkey and a pair of ducks, which the Frenchman seemed to relish better. The yankee gentleman tasted a bit of the turkey, and the lady dined principally upon bread and butter: she remarked that "she seldom dined upon any thing else."What odd creatures old maids are! Be

sides these, we had a variety of excellent vegetables; over and above, there was another article on the table, which the waiter affirmed to be cheese, but no one would have known it as such from the appearance; it resembled ginger-bread crumbled fine. The poor wait

er,

I felt for him, his feelings must have been wounded by the sarcasms of the company, all but the Frenchman and myself. One said it was saw-dust, another said it was potash at length the Virginian made us all laugh, by saying, "O yes, I recollect now, it is cheese-it is the identical cheese I dined upon seven years ago, on my way to Washington!" Having dined, I asked the waiter what was to pay? "Three quarters of a dollar," quoth he. The other passengers threw down the cash, but I sought the landlord: "and what do I owe you, sir?" "Three quarters." "Where is your rates?" said I.— "We fix our own rates," said mine host. "So then we stand on even ground, you fix your rates, so do I," and handing him fifty cents, I stept into the stage-not another word passed between us. My fellow travellers, however, appeared mortified that they did not, like myself, save the odd quarter. It is nothing but an act of jus tice to society, to treat these pickpockets in this manner

-common sense must point out to the lowest understan ding, that the traveller has the same right to refuse, that the publican has to exact an exorbitant bill, unless the rates are fixed by law, and placed in public view, which ought to be the case throughout every civilized country, changing them with the rise and fall of the market. It tickled the Frenchman exceedingly, my behaviour to the landlord. As he was the last to quit the house, one of the party asked him what the landlord said. "He say not a word, he look like one statue, he tunderstruck, he stand, he look astonishment after de coach, he say noting."

A pleasant anecdote is related of Gen. La Fayette, as he travelled from Baltimore to Washington. Being told he was to dine at Waterloo, he refused to do so, disgusted with the name, and actually pushed on to his quarters without stopping. This warning hint has determined the landlord to change the name of his inn-so

T

says report. It must have been a great disappointment to him, as he doubtless had made great preparation, knowing too that a large escort would accompany the general.

In the course of the day we crossed the Patapsco and Patuxent rivers, which, to my astonishment, are quite ordinary streams, being narrow, shallow, and unnavigable. No house or farm distinguish their solitary course -they flow through a poor hilly country. Towards evening we came in sight of Baltimore, some miles before we reached it! The towering spires and white monuments first appeared, then the city, and here the Patapsco again, spread out into a vast sheet. This river forms what is called a bason, at this place, sufficient for ships, which led to the idea of a commercial town.

From the time we got out of the stage to this day, I have never laid eyes on my fellow travellers. What a difference! In the western country, we are not only more sociable while travelling, but constitute one family during the route, at all times and places. From the mutual dangers, the pleasantries, accidents, and priva tions, incident to travellers, an attachment takes place which is not dissolved, perhaps ever. But here in the east, they jump out of the stage, and each one sets out to his quarters with perfect indifference, and even without taking leave. This difference,, is no doubt owing to their superior numbers, to their journey's being shorter, and the numerous impostors, who are constantly on the wing seeking for prey, and flying from one seaport to another. Admitting these causes however, in their widest sense, I cannot reconcile that unsociable deportment, which wears such obvious marks of groundless suspicion.

Baltimore. I just arrived time enough in the evening to have a view of this (to me) great city. A host of wonders bursted upon me at once, the vast number, heighth and density of the houses, the massy public buildings, the Washington monument, the Baltimore monument, the great expanse of water, the quantity of shipping, the number of well dressed people in the streets,

overwhelmed me with astonishment. I have not the least doubt but this remark may excite a smile, particu larly in those who were never out of a populous town, but they must remember that till now I was never in one, and that those things which are matter of so much indifference to them, are as gratifying to me, as oar long, deep, smooth-flowing rivers, our endless prairies, our solemn forests, our wild mountains and deep caverns, our flowery plains, rude hamlets and fertile fields of bending corn, would be to them. It is natural for one to desire to see whatever is new or uncommon, and next to this, a description of them; but that person to whom they are new, will be more likely to point out their distinguishing traits, than one who has spent his life amongst them. One who has spent his days in a great city, sees it without emotion, because it is familiar to him. I begin too late to discover, that I have fell very short in describing the western states, from having always resided there. Dropping this digression, however, I shall endeavor to convey my own impressions, as best calculated to give satisfaction to those who like myself have always lived in the back country.

Had an awkward back woods country person, myself for instance, been taken up and dropped down in this world of houses, I should have been afraid to budge, lest those formidable carts and waggons might have settled the question with me for ever; and as for entering one of those splendid houses, it would be the last thing I should think of. I should have been afraid the lord of the mansion would look me out of existence. But I had been in Alexandria, I had been in Washington, and had, it is true, seen a few fashionable people, and some splendid houses in the western states, but not so many by half. If such be Baltimore, thought I, what must be Philadelphia and New-York. I put up at the same house where Gen. La Fayette lodged, and saw the room which the General occupied, just as he left it, the furniture had not been disturbed, out of respect to him.

Baltimore lies on the north side of the Patapsco river, 18 miles from the Chesapeake. It stands upon an elevated situation, with a gentle descent to the harbour.

The city is divided into the old town, and Fell's Point, by a creek called Jones's creek, (called by the citizens the falls.) This creek strikes the harbour at a right angle, and divides the town into east and west. The east is Fell's Point, which projects some distance into the basin, and gives the city the form of a bow. Large ships come up to Fell's Point, whilst none but the smallest size come to the west part of the town. I had been told that Fell's Point was low and unhealthy; it is so represented by geographers; what was my astonishment to I find it no ways inferior to the other part of the town, either for beauty or situation; if any thing, it is the most desirable part of the city. Elegant buildings, fine paved streets, and splendid churches distinguish Fell's Point. It is called the Point simply by the citizens. Half a dozen bridges at least, are thrown over the creek mentioned, and so close do the houses come to it, that the creek is hardly perceptible. It is walled up with stone on each side for a considerable distance above the mouth.

Baltimore is two miles in length, and of different widths. The streets are paved and lighted; the houses, though well built, do not look so handsome as those of Washington, because they are older, they have not that fresh appearance. The houses of Washington too, standing so far asunder, have not the same chance of being tinged with smoke.

Public Buildings.-The public buildings of Baltimore are a town hall, a court-house, an exchange, a library, a prison, an alms-house, a hospital, a penitentiary, a masonic hall, a circus, a theatre, 3 market houses, 2 cof-fee houses, 2 colleges, 18 churches, viz.-4 for Roman Catholics, 1 for Scots Presbyterians, 1 for Swedenbourgians, 1 for Swedish Lutherans, 2 for Universalists, 1 for Unitarians, 4 for the Evangelical Society, 1 Prison Chapel, 1 Orphans Asylum, 1 Widows Asylum, 1 Magdalen Asylum.

Of these, the exchange and the Roman Catholic cathedral are by far the most conspicuous. The exchange is a beautiful structure of white freestone, 360 feet by 140!-In it is transacted all commercial business. The cathedral is celebrated as being the most superb church