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is their sweet melodious voices;"" their accent is distinguished by a sonorous, smooth-flowing sound, which is actually enchanting—it is music. They do not themselves appear conscious of this endowment of nature, which is free from affectation. I remark. ed this peculiarity in them when I formerly passed through this part of Virginia some years since ; also in those who visit our country for the purpose of traffic. I have travelled through several of the states, and never witnessed any thing equal to this natural excellence. They likewise surpass in personal beauty; they are handsome fine looking men, very much in appearance like the Kentuckians, though they excel even these in expression of countenance.
In addition to all this, they are a well informed, hospitable and polite people. But from these advantages we must except the poor ignorant Dutch, who, though industrious, and in many instances wealthy, are grossly ignorant, and immoral, particularly their females ; it is among them that those natural children abound; to the advantages of the former, perhaps the misfortunes of the latter may be ascribed. But whence come all the feas.? Heaven knows, for they torment me even while I am writing. But to return, I shall mention but one instance of this immorality, which may serve for the rest.
As I drove through these counties to this place (Newbern,) my eye was attracted by a beautiful farm; we had passed several handsome farms that day, but this exceeded them all in beauty and size. I inquired of a countryman, (who had taken a seat in the stage to ride a few miles) who owned that beautiful farm, he replied “ a Dutchman by the name of Blessing," I think.) “He must be wealthy,” said I, how many slaves must he have to cultivate all this land ? What was my astonishment at hearing that the farm vas cultivated by his daughters principally, and that he had no slaves. “ And why don't some of you young men,” said I,“ beguile him of some of those fine girls; they must be worth having, they are a fortune
themselves." “Yes," he said, "they were a fortune in one respect, they had children enough."" And how many have they ?? five, was the answer,
yes, an ta vill soon pee some more," said the driver. He had six daughters, and all but one which was not grown, had had children ; some two or three, and the young one it was, " that promised another shortly!!" This countryman said-nay, I saw one of them myself, with a black child."that there were several instances of their having children by black men.” This is the effect of that ignorance that universally prevails among the Germans; this too, in a country where the enlightened Prestons live-where the classical, the eloquent, and highly polished Dr. Floyd, Gen. A. Smyth, and many other enlightened and intelligent people livewhere the great and wise Maj. Sheffy once lived. Strange that those eminent characters, prompted by fellow feeling, or some feeling that would have for its object the improvement of their neighbors, whose mo. rals are entirely subverted for the want of education, should not make some exertion to remove the evil. extenuation, however, it must be observed, that the Dutch (so called) generally, throughout America, evince an insuperable aversion to learning. I expressed myself to the young man in the stage, in terms of abhorrence at this gross immorality. "Vy I'm sure its no harm," said the poor ignorant driver. But I will give them up, and see what I can make of Giles county, through which it seems I am to pass to the Springs. After spending several days at Newbern, bid my kind and worthy friend, Mr. Tiffany, adieu.
Giles County. Giles is a poor, billy, broken, thinly settled county. I was agreeably surprised at the passage of New River, through Peter's Mountain : the scenery it presents is truly romantic--the only thing worthy remark on the road to the Salt Sulphur, where I arrived very much fatigued. And here I have the fleas again, notwithstanding the neatness of the land. lady, who is an excellent house keeper. They cer
tainly must delight in a cold climate, the whole of this country, and particularly this, (Monroe,) being elevatalmost to the clouds. Here are people from almost every state in the Union, going to and coming from the different mineral springs, which abound in these everlasting mountains. Some come for health, and some for pleasure. In Paulding's “ Letters from the South," you have a very correct portrait of these watering places; a better description could not be given. In this county (Monroe) are no less than four different mineral springs. Here are the Salt Sulphur and the Sweet Sulphur within a mile of each other--the Red Sulphur, which is said to be the most efficacious of them all, within eighteen miles, and the Sweet Spring within twenty. Besides these, there are the White Sulphur and the Blue Sulphur in the adjoining county of Greenbriar, and in the county of Bath, about forty miles north-east of this place, are the Hot Springs, and Warm Spring about four miles distant one from the other. How admirably has Providence provided resources for every part of the globe. This bleak, inhospitable, and dreary country, remote from commerce and navigation, destitute of arts, taste, or refinement, derives great advantages from these springs. Thousands of dollars are left here annually by those wealthy visiters; and in the mean time, as they are mostly people of taste and refinement, they bring a fund of amusement and instruction home to the doors of its inhabitants. The northern people are reserved and distant; the Virginians frank, open and sociable, and their ladies are very agreeable; the South Carolinians still more so. Of all people I have met with, they are the most pleasing in their manners; they are however annoyed with the cold and the feas. It is not uncommon to see a South Carolinian wrapped up in a cloak, in the middle of August.
Although I was myself perplexed, between the fleas and the cold together, I could not forbear smiling at the other sufferers, particularly a French gentleman. Sitting in my chamber one day, and these insects the
topic, he wouid close his eyes to personate sleep, and then pass his hands with flippant motion over different parts of his body,“ dare, and dare, and dare ;" according to him, they missed no part of his body, “ per dew da be von diable ting, no possible to sleep for dem, da are not von fla to insect, how you call dat? da are da tla (fea,) to make hase away, I defy you to catch dem." One of the servants happened to be present, while he was execrating them in his way, and observed, you get them at the stables sir, if you would refrain from visiting the stables, you would be free from them;"> " you go in h—1," said he to the servant, “ da are congenal to all place.'
Meeting with my old friend D., I rode out with him through the country a few miles, and having letters to write, we called at a little town near the spring, where I was told that a post office was kept. Unluckily for me, it was the quarterly term of their court, which was held at this town. One tavern only in the place, and every room engaged by the lawyers, and what hots of the country; all but one, which no one would have, as it was immediately over the bar room, and which necessity compelled me to accept. Goldsmith says, a tavern is the true picture of human infirmity. In history we tind only one side of the age exhibited to our view, but in the accounts of a tavern, we see every age equally absurd, and equally vicious. Several men were assembled in the room beneath me. They were talking, singing, laughing, drinking, and swearing, all at the same instant of time. Being compelled to write, I, like the countryman who sat down on the bank of the river, in the pleasing expectation, that the rapidity of the current would soon exhaust the stream, by which means he might pursue his journey, sat with the pen in my hand, and the paper before me, waiting for some fortunate intermission in the noise below, or that they would finally close and disperse to their respective homes,--all in vain !
As I could hear the most of what was said, and sung, it came into my head, (since I could do no bet
ter,) to take down the conversation as it struck iny ear, in short hand, and see what a budget of nonsense it would display on paper.
The reader has, no doubt, seen the conversation of a club, written by Goldsmith ; this was not half so entertaining, but it was equally absurd. Two men were disputing on the orthography of Mississippi ; two others appeared to be shoemakers, one of whom seemed to question the skill of his brother chip. Another was accusing one who sat near him, of stealing a march with his neighbor's daughter, as I took it ; and another was calling for more whiskey, and a song. “I say it's Mas-mas-sa-masa-sep-sep-py-py, Massaseppy. I'll tell you what 't is Jake, you never lasted a shoe in your life, so, and I never said that before. What the d could you be doing there at that time. Come Jim, give us that song: Landlord bring us a half pint of whiskey. Well, i ll hold you a half pint that it's Mic-ci-ci-micci-pi-pi. I can last a shoe. Of the morning and the man in the range. Silence, Jim's goin till give us a song. One night I dreamed I lay most easy down by a murmuring.Micippi, and i'll stand to it till the day of doomsday, that it's mas. l'll be dd, give me the same leather, and the same thread, and if I can't. D-n it man, what's the use of denying the. D- -n seize ye, can't ye lister to the song. Truth. 6 One night I dreamed I lay most easy, down by a murmuring river side." Well, I'll bate (bet) you a gallon the best whiskey in the Union ; done, that it's mic. Make a shoe that 'll out-last. If I had 'nt eyes, you might persuade me. “Whose spreading banks were spread with daisies, and the stream it gently glide." I'll hold you all the whiskey in the Union that it begins with. Out wear, any shoe that ever you made. Out of my senses. Give us another half pint. Hic-kup an hic-kup.
'r a lor." The Landlord now interfered, and sent the two spellers, who appeared to be very drunk, out of the house. By this time Coart adjourned, a crowd entered