the small pot; be particular that the bottom of the cuttings comes in contact with the sides, for cuttings of every description will strike root more readily by the side than if planted in the middle of the soil. When your cuttings are all in, fill the small pot with water, which, if kept full, will sufficiently feed the cuttings without watering in any other way, and they will not be killed by too much moisture. In the usual method of setting cuttings in the soil, and watering them, they are very apt to be killed by over moisture; but to set them in the manner recommended, and covering them with a bell glass, which should be taken off occasionally for a short time, too great a degree of dampness would be prevented, and your cuttings would generally thrive. It is requisite in setting cuttings of any description to keep them shaded from the sun; and in the fall when they have taken sufficient root, which can be ascertained by lifting the small pot, they should be potted off into two inch pots, with a rich sandy loam, and remain in them until the following spring.

Succulent plants being easier raised by cuttings, may be set in the following way:-get a pot or box like the one above recommended, and fill it with a composition of leaf mould and sand, then gently water it; take a bell glass and mark its size by pressing it on the soil, then set the cuttings up to the middle joint, having previously prepared them the same as recommended for hard wooded cuttings, then gently water the whole to settle the soil round them; when the leaves are dry put on the glass. Whenever you water cuttings, be sure and never cover them while the leaves are wet if you wish to succeed. When you find cuttings begin to grow, then begin to admit air to harden them. In

striking cuttings that are more difficult than others, resource should be had to the bark bed. Experience will teach more on that subject than I could explain in any treatise.

Budding. The difference between budding and striking by cuttings in one respect amounts to one thing the increase of desirable plants; the one conveys the roots to the ground, while the other is essentially employed in engrafting itself by uniting to the stem of another, and all action of atmospheric air must be excluded to ensure success; to accomplish this, it will be necessary to examine the bark when it parts freely, which is about July or August, which is the time to perform the operation.

The best stock to bud the Rose on is the Boursalt; when ready to perform the operation, cut the bark across and down in the shape of T, with a budding knife, then lay it open from the cross down, separating the bark from the wood with as much ease as possible; then take the bud intended to be inserted which must be cut about a quarter of an inch above and below the axle of the leaf through a portion of the wood, which must be separated from the bark, and inserted in the part separated, commencing at the cross and slipped down as far as possible, between the bark, without injuring the leaf bud, then take a piece of bass matting about a quarter of an inch wide, previously dipped into water to strengthen it, and bind the wound close, leaving the eye only exposed, and in six weeks, if the bud has taken, slacken the bandage a little and cut the stalk off within two eyes of the bud; by this means the inserted bud will receive enough sap to keep it in a living condition until spring. When the bud begins to push, cut off the balance above

the bud. Budding is preferable to grafting for the Rose, and is much practised by Florists, as every eye will make a tree; by this process the most scarce species of the Rose may be propagated faster than by any other method, and sent to all parts of the world. It will also be found by experience that some varieties of the Rose succeed better by being budded on another stock than on its own; we have an instance of this in the white Bath Moss and the yellow Persian Rose.

WATERING OF PLANTS.

Watering of plants is one of the most essential operations to be performed, and easily done; but being done correctly is quite another thing, for to water plants correctly is one of the principal means of invigorating them, and lies at the foundation of their health. From the manner some plants are watered it is a wonder they are kept alive; they can exhibit from one year's end to another but a very meagre appearance. Pot plants (plants cultivated in pots) should never be kept in a saucer unless the object be to keep the surplus water from the carpet or the floor; but it frequently occurs that when kept in saucers they are watered by that means; such a plan should not be adopted unless the plant be a swamp plant, like the Hydrangea Calla æthiopica, &c.; though there are times when some plants will admit of such a course it will require experience for its successful practice. In watering plants we should imitate nature as closely

as possible. In the first place we should never use cold water, as it is injurious. After a warm shower we can plainly perceive the vigor imparted to plants, a circumstance not noticeable after a cold rain. In the summer wa ter should be allowed to stand all day in a tub, and warmed by the sun. It must not be supposed that because a human being feels refreshed in summer by the use of cold water, that plants derive the same benefit from the use of cold well or cistern water, for a human being has means of exercise, therefore does not feel any ill effects; but plants are not endowed with such faculties, and therefore suffer from the use of water in a cold state. Therefore water given to plants in summer should be as warm as the soil and atmosphere, or rather warmer than otherwise. Rain, when falling in the summer, if cool, changes the air and soil to a corresponding temperature; this is natural. In the winter such plants as stand in need of water should have it applied sparingly, and the chill should be taken off previous to using it. In the next place it should be observed that our Maker has sent refreshing showers for the benefit of plants as well as ourselves, therefore we ought to imitate him in watering plants, by applying it at the top of the pot, and never at the saucer; for if he deemed it best, he in his infinite wisdom, would have provided it at the bottom of the roots, to ascend instead of descending.

In watering plants in pots we have to be more profuse than rain, for plants in the ground receive some moisture at the roots, and consequently do not need so much as if in the pot. To supply this deficiency we have to resort to artificial means, or they would perish by being circumscribed within so small a compass, without means of ob

taining and retaining of moisture to support them through the warm summer. How much water plants in pots will require depends on the weather, season, and nature of the plants. In the summer every day; spring and fall not so often; December and January little or none; for at that season plants, generally speaking, are not in a growing state. If the room where the plants are kept be dry and warm, a little may be used to advantage; still it should be remembered that plants may be gorged at all seasons; this may be avoided in some measure by giving the plants a good drainage when potted. It is the nature of some plants to require more water than others; this will be easily discovered, when plants are in a growing state, by the soil at the top of the pot drying up faster than others.

The Camellia Japonica in the winter require much water to make their flower buds swell and expand; it must not be supposed because that plant requires a plentiful supply, that others want as much. The Cacti family, if watered much in the winter, will soon perish; but in its growing season must have its due portion. Plants when in full growth should never be watered close to the stem or collar. the object is to have the water first reach the roots that extend to the sides of the pot. Many tender exotic plants have been killed by frequently watering the collar of the plant, as the watering from a water pot is not so gentle as rain; therefore more likely to be injurious.

Liquid manure is sometimes used in watering plants, but is dangerous to most varieties, unless used by a skillful gardener; it should never be used by the amateur. In early spring and fall, as also the winter, the morning is the best time to water plants, but in summer the evening. To wa