1 my great garden, which I have before men-able manner, how much clothes contribute to tioned to you, does not afford a single leaf for make us agreeable objects, and how much we their shelter. owe it to ourselves that we should appear so. 'You must know, sir, that I look upon the 'We considered man as belonging to sociepleasure which we take in a garden as one of ties; societies as formed of different ranks; and the most innocent delights in human life. A different ranks distinguished by habits, that all garden was the habitation of our first parents proper duty or respect might attend their apbefore the fall. It is naturally apt to fill the pearance. mind with calmnes and tranquillity, and to lay 'We took notice of several advantages which all its turbulent passions at rest. It gives us a are met with in the occurrences of conversagreat insight into the contrivance and wisdom tion; how the bashful man has been sometimes of Providence, and suggests innumerable sub-so raised, as to express himself with an air of jects for meditation. I cannot but think the freedom when he imagines that his habit invery complacency and satisfaction which a man troduces him to company with a becoming takes in these works of nature to be a laudable, if not a virtuous, habit of mind. For all which reasons I hope you will pardon the length of my present letter. C. 'I am, Sir, &c. No. 478.] Monday, September 8, 1712. -Usus, Quem penes arbitrium est, et jus et norma- Fashion, sole arbitress of dress. MR. SPECTATOR, manner; and again, how a fool in fine clothes shall be suddenly heard with attention, till he has betrayed himself; whereas a man of sense appearing with a dress of negligence, shall be but coldly received till he be proved by time, and established in a character. Such things as these we could recollect to have happened to our own knowledge so very often, that we concluded the author had his reasons, ho advises his son to go in dress rather above his fortune than under it. 'At last the subject seemed so considerable, that it was proposed to have a repository built for fashions, as there are chambers for medals and other rarities. The building may be shaped IT happened lately that a friend of mine, as that which stands among the pyramids, in who had many things to buy for his family, the form of a woman's head. This may be raiswould oblige me to walk with him to the shops. ed upon pillars, whose ornaments shall bear He was very nice in his way, and fond of having a just relation to the design. Thus there may every thing shown; which at first made me very be an imitation of fringe carved in the base, a uneasy; but, as his humour still continued, sort of appearance of lace in the frieze, and a the things which I had been staring at along with him began to fill my head, and led me into a set of amusing thoughts concerning them. representation of curling locks, with bows of ribband sloping over them, may fill up the works of the cornice. The inside may be divided into two apartments appropriated to each sex. 'I fancied it must be very surprising to any The apartments may be filled with shelves, one who enters into a detail of fashions to con- on which boxes are to stand as regularly as sider how far the vanity of mankind has laid books in a library. These are to have folding itself out in dress, what a prodigious number doors, which, being opened, you are to behold of people it maintains, and what a circulation a baby dressed out in some fashion which has of money it occasions. Providence in this case flourished, and standing upon a pedestal, where makes use of the folly which we will not give the time of its reign is marked down. For its up, and it becomes instrumental to the support further regulation, let it be ordered, that every of those who are willing to labour. Hence it is one who invents a fashion shall bring in his that fringe-makers, lace-men, tire-women, and box, whose front he may at pleasure have a number of other trades, which would be use- either worked or painted with some amorous less in a simple state of nature, draw their sub-or gay device, that, like books with gilded sistence; though it is seldom seen that such leaves and covers, it may the sooner draw the as these are extremely rich, because their ori-eyes of the beholders. And to the end that ginal fault of being founded upon vanity keeps these may be preserved with all due care, let them poor by the light inconstancy of its na- there be a keeper appointed, who shall be a ture. The variableness of fashion turns the gentleman qualified with a competent knowstream of business, which flows from it, now ledge in clothes; so that by this means the into one channel, and anon into another; so place will be a comfortable support for some that the different sets of people sink or flou- beau who has spent his estate in dressing. rish in their turns by it. From the shops we retired to the tavern, where I found my friend express so much satisfaction for the bargains he had made, that my moral reflections (if I had told them) might have passed for a reproof; so I chose rather to fall in with him, and let the discourse run upon the use of fashions. 'Here we remembered how much man is governed by his senses, how lively he is struck by the objects which appear to him in an agree 'The reasons offered, by which we expected to gain the approbation of the public, were as follows: 'First, That every one who is considerable enough to be a mode, and has any imperfection of nature or chance, which it is possible to hide by the advantage of clothes, may, by coming to this repository, be furuished herself, and furnish all who are under the same misfortune, with the most agreeable manner of concealing it; and that, on the other side, every one, who has any beauty in face or shape,| may also be furnished with the most agreeable manner of showing it. Darts, torches, and bands: 'Your most humble servant, 'Secondly, That whereas some of our young gentlemen who travel, give us great reason to suspect that they only go abroad to make or imThe proposal of my correspondent I cannot prove a fancy for dress, a project of this nature may be a means to keep them at home; which but look upon as an ingenious method of is in effect the keeping of so much money in the placing persons (whose parts make them amkingdom. And perhaps the balance of fashion bitious to exert themselves in frivolous things) in Europe, which now leans upon the side of in a rank by themselves. In order to this, Í France, may be so altered for the future, that would propose that there be a board of directors of the fashionable society; and, because it it may become as common with Frenchmen to come to England for their finishing stroke of is a matter of too much weight for a private breeding, as it has been for Englishmen to go obliged to my correspondents if they would man to determine alone, I should be highly to France for it. Thirdly, Whereas several great scholars, who might have been otherwise useful to the world, have spent their time in studying to describe the dresses of the ancients from dark give in lists of persons qualified for this trust. which places are carried on by persons, each If the chief coffee-houses, the conversations of of whom has his little number of followers and hints, which they are fain to interpret and sup- two or three to be inserted, they should be put admirers, would name from among themselves port with much learning; it will from henceforth happen that they shall be freed from the up with great faithfulness. Old beaus are to trouble, and the world from useless volumes. be represented in the first place; but as that This project will be a registry, to which pos- will, I fear, be absolutely necessary to take in sect, with relation to dress, is almost extinct, it terity may have recourse, for the clearing such all time-servers, properly so deemed; that is, obscure passages as tend that way in authors; and therefore we shall not for the future sub such as, without any conviction of conscience, mit ourselves to the learning of etymology, that merely from a terror of being out of faor view of interest, change with the world, and which might persuade the age to come that shion. Such also, who from facility of temthe farthingale was worn for cheapness, or the furbelow for warmth. per, and too much obsequiousness, are vicious Fourthly, Whereas they, who are old them- against their will, and follow leaders whom selves, have often a way of railing at the exthey do not approve, for want of courage to travagance of youth, and the whole age in go their own way, are capable persons for this which their children live; it is hoped that superintendency. Those who are loth to grow this ill-humour will be much suppressed; when old, or would do any thing contrary to the we can have recourse to the fashions of their course and order of things, out of fondness to times, produce them in our vindication, and be in fashion, are proper candidates. To conbe able to show, that it might have been as rent merit, must be supposed to have latent clude, those who are in fashion without appaexpensive in queen Elizabeth's time only to wash and quill a ruff, as it is now to buy cra-rection; and therefore are to be regarded in qualities, which would appear in a post of divats or neck handkerchiefs. We desire also to have it taken notice of, that because we would show a particular respect to foreigners, which may induce them to perfect their breeding here in a knowledge which is very proper for pretty gentlemen, we have conceived the motto for the house in the according to these, or what further qualificaforming these lists Any who shall be pleased tions may occur to himself, to send a list, is desired to do it within fourteen days from this date. N. B. The place of the physician to this society, according to the last mentioned qualification, is already engaged. Dare jura maritis. T. Hor. Ar's Poet, 398. learned languages. There is to be a picture manner: To regulate the matrimonial life. MANY are the epistles I every day receive from husbands who complain of vanity, pride, but, above all, ill-nature in their wives. I cannot tell how it is, but I think I see in all their letters that the cause of their uneasiness is in themselves; and indeed I have hardly ever observed the married condition unhappy, but for want of judgment or temper in the man. The "Adeste, O quotquot sunt, Veneres, Gratiæ, Cupidines, truth is, we generally make love in a style and En vobis adsunt in promptu Hinc eligite, sumite, regite." "All ye Venusses, Graces, and Cupids, attend: See, prepared to your hands, with sentiments very unfit for ordinary life: they are half theatrical and half romantic. By this means we raise our imaginations to what is not to be expected in human life; and, bècause we did not beforehand think of the crea ture we are enamoured of, as subject to dis-vislt all sorts of people, I cannot indeed but honour, age, sickness, impatience, or sullen smile, when the good lady tells her husband ness, but altogether considered her as the object of joy; human nature itself is often imputed to her as her particular imperfection, or defect. what extraordinary things the child spoke since he went out. No longer than yesterday I was prevailed with to go home with a fond husband; and his wife told him, that his son, of I take it to be a rule, proper to be observed his own head, when the clock in the parlour in all occurrences of life, but more especially in struck two, said papa would come home to the domestic, or matrimonial part of it, to pre-dinner presently. While the father has him in serve always a disposition to be pleased. This a rapture in his arms, and is drowning him with cannot be supported but by considering things kisses, the wife tells me he is but just four years in their right light, and as Nature has formed old. Then they both struggle for him, and them, and not as our own fancies or appetites bring him up to me, and repeat his observation would have them. He then who took a young of two o'clock. I was called upon, by looks lady to his bed, with no other consideration upon the child, and then at me, to say somethan the expectation of scenes of dalliance, and thing; and told the father that this remark thought of her (as I said before) only as she of the infant of his coming home, and joining was to administer to the gratification of desire; the time with it, was a certain indication that as that desire flags, will, without her fault, he would be a great historian and chronologer. think her charms and her merit abated: from They are neither of them fools, yet received my hence must follow indifference, dislike, peevish- compliment with great acknowledgment of my ness, and rage. But the man who brings his prescience. I fared very well at dinner, and reason to support his passion, and beholds what heard many other notable sayings of their heir, he loves as liable to all the calamities of human which would have given very little entertainlife, both in body and mind, and even at the ment to one less turned to reflection than I best what must bring upon him new cares, was: but it was a pleasing speculation to reand new relations; such a lover, I say, will mark on the happiness of a life, in which things form himself accordingly, and adapt his mind of no moment give occasion of hope, self-satisto the nature of his circumstances. This lat- faction, and triumph. On the other hand, I ter person will be prepared to be a father, a have known an ill-natured coxcomb, who has friend, an advocate, a steward for people yet hardly improved in any thing but bulk, for unborn, and has proper affections ready for want of this disposition, silence the whole faevery incident in the marriage state. Such a mily as a set of silly women and children, for man can hear the cries of children with pity recounting things which were really above his instead of anger; and, when they run over his own capacity. head, he is not disturbed at their noise, but is glad of their mirth and health. Tom Trusty are perverse jades that fall to men's lots, with When I say all this, I cannot deny but there has told me, that he thinks it doubles his at-whom it requires more than common profitention to the most intricate affair he is about, ciency in philosophy to be able to live. When to hear his children, for whom all his cares these are joined to men of warm spirits, withare applied, make a noise in the next room out temper or learning, they are frequently on the other side, Will Sparkish cannot put corrected with stripes; but one of our famous on his periwig, or adjust his cravat at the lawyers* is of opinion, that this ought to be glass, for the noise of those damned nurses and used sparingly;' as I remember, those are his squalling brats; and then ends with a gallant very words: but as it is proper to draw some reflection upon the comforts of matrimony, spiritual use out of all afflictions, I should raruns out of the hearing, and drives to the cho-ther recommend to those who are visited with colate house. According as the husband is disposed in world by patience at home. Socrates, who is women of spirit, to form themselves for the himself, every circumstance of his life is to by all accounts the undoubted head of the sect give him torment or pleasure. When the af- of the hen-pecked, owned and acknowledged fection is well placed, and supported by the that he owed great part of his virtue to the exconsiderations of duty, honour, and friend-ercise which his useful wife constantly gave ship, which are in the highest degree engaged it. There are several good instructions may in this alliance there can nothing rise in the be drawn from his wise answers to the people common course of life, or from the blows or of less fortitude than himself on her subject. favours of fortune, in which a man will not A friend, with indignation, asked how so good find matters of some delight unknown to a sin-a man could live with so violent a creature? gle condition. He who sincerely loves his wife and family, keep a good seat on horse-back, mount the He observed to him, that they who learn to and studies to improve that affection in him- least manageable they can get; and, when self, conceives pleasure from the most indiffer- they have mastered them, they are sure never ent things; while the married man, who has to be discomposed on the backs of steeds not bid adieu to the fashions and false gallan-less restive. tries of the town, is perplexed with every thing persons, on the same subject he has said, ' My At several times, to different around him. In both these cases men cannot, dear friend, you are beholden to Xantippe, indeed, make a sillier figure than in repeating that I bear so well your flying out in a dissuch pleasures and pains to the rest of the pute.' To another, 'My hen clacks very much, world; but I speak of them only as they sit upon those who are involved in them. As Vor. II. * Bracton. but she brings me chickens. They that live in rather than regard to our own service; for a trading street are not disturbed at the pas- which reason I beg leave to lay before your sage of carts.' I would have, if possible, a majesty my reasons for declining to depart from wise man be contented with his lot, even with home; and will not doubt but, as your motive a shrew; for, though he cannot make her bet-in desiring my attendance was to make me an ter, he may, you see, make himself better by her means. happier man, when you think that will not be effected by my remove, you will permit me to But, instead of pursuing my design of dis- stay where I am. Those who have an ambition playing conjugal love in its natural beauties to appear in courts, have either an opinion that and attractions, I am got into tales to the dis- their persons or their talents are particularly advantage of that state of life. I must say, formed for the service or ornament of that therefore, that I am verily persuaded, that place; or else are hurried by downright desire whatever is delightful in human life is to be of gain, or what they call honour, to take upon enjoyed in greater perfection in the married themselves whatever the generosity of their than in the single condition. He that has this master can give them opportunities to grasp at. passion in perfection, in occasions of joy, can But your goodness shall not be thus imposed say to himself, besides his own satisfaction, upon by me: I will therefore confess to you, 'How happy will this make my wife and chil- that frequent solitude, and long conversation. dren!' Upon occurrences of distress or dan- with such who know no arts which polish life, ger, can comfort himself: 'But all this while have made me the plainest creature in your my wife and children are safe.' There is dominions. Those less capacities of moving something in it that doubles satisfactions, be- with a good grace, bearing a ready affability cause others participate them; and dispels to all around me, and acting with ease be afflictions, because others are exempt from fore many, have quite left me. I am come to them. All who are married without this re- that, with regard to my person, that I consider lish of their circumstance, are in either a taste- it only as a machine I am obliged to take care less indolence and negligence, which is hardly of, in order to enjoy my soul in its faculties to be attained, or else live in the hourly repetition of sharp answers, eager upbraidings, and distracting reproaches. In a word, the married state, with and without the affection suitable to it, is the completest image of heaven and hell we are capable of receiving in this life. No. 480.] Wednesday, September 10, 1712. T. Responsare cupidinibus, contemnere honores, with alacrity; well remembering that this habitation of clay will in a few years be a meaner piece of earth than any utensil about my house. When this is, as it really is, the most frequent reflection I have, you will easily imagine how well I should become a drawingroom: add to this, what shall a man without desires do about the generous Pharamond? Monsieur Eucrate has hinted to me, that you have thoughts of distinguishing me with titles. As for myself, in the temper of my present mind, appellations of honour would but emHe, sir, is proof to grandeur, pride, or pelf, barrass discourse, and new behaviour towards And, greater still, he's master of himself: me perplex me in every habitude of life. I Not to and fro by fears and factions hurl'd, am also to acknowledge to you, that my chilBut loose to all the interests of the world; dren, of whom your majesty condescended to And while the world turns round, entire and whole, inquire, are all of them mean, both in their perHe keeps the sacred tener of his soul. sons and genius. The estate my eldest son is THE other day, looking over those old ma-heir_to, is more than he can enjoy with a nuscripts of which I have formerly given some good grace. My self-love will not carry me account, and which relate to the character so far as to impose upon mankind the adof the mighty Pharamond of France, and the vancement of persons (merely for their being close friendship between him and his friend related to me) into high distinctions, who Eucrate, I found among the letters which ought for their own sakes, as well as that of had been in the custody of the latter, an the public, to affect obscurity. I wish, my epistle from a country gentleman to Phara-generous prince, as it is in your power to mond, wherein he excuses himself from com- give honours and offices, it were also to give ing to court. The gentleman, it seems, was talents suitable to them were it so, the noble contented with his condition, had formerly Pharamond would reward the zeal of my been in the king's service; but at the writ-youth with abilities to do him service in my ing the following letter, had, from leisure and age. reflection, quite another sense of things than that which he had in the more active part of his life. 'Monsieur Chezluy to Pharamond. Pitt. Those who accept of favour without merit, support themselves in it at the expense of your majesty. Give me leave to tell you, sir, this is the reason that we in the country hear so often repeated the word prerogative. That part of your law which is reserved in yourself, for the readier service and good of the I have from your own hand (enclosed under public, slight men are eternally buzzing in our the cover of Mr. Eucrate, of your majesty's bed-chamber) a letter which invites me to I understand this great honour to be done me out of respect and inclination to me, court. * DREAD SIR, ears, to cover their own foilies and miscarriages. It would be an addition to the high favour you have done me, if you would let Eucrate send me word how often, and in what · September 9, 1712. 'Your's, &c. cases, you allow a constable to insist upon the to advance me, by recommending me to a prerogative. From the highest to the lowest gentleman that is going beyond sea in a pubofficer in your dominions, something of their lic employment. I know the printing this letown carriage they would exempt from exami- ter would point me out to those I want confnation, under the shelter of the word prero-dence to speak to, and I hope it is not in your gative. I would fain, most noble Pharamond, power to refuse making any body happy. see one of your officers assert your prerogative by good and gracious actions. When is it used to help the afflicted, to rescue the innocent, to comfort the stranger? Uncommon No. 481.] Thursday, September 11, 1712. methods, apparently undertaken to attain worthy ends, would never make power invidious. You see, sir, I talk to you with the freedom of your noble nature approves in all whom you admit to your conversation. Ꭲ . -Uti non Compositus meliùs cum Bitho Bacchius, in jus Hor. Sat. vii. Lib. 1. 19. Who shall decide when doctors disagree, 'But, to return to your majesty's letter, I humbly conceive that all distinctions are useful to men, only as they are to act in public; and it would be a romantic madness for a man the different notions which different persons It is sometimes pleasant enough to consider to be lord in his closet. Nothing can be ho-have of the same thing. If men of low connourable to a man apart from the world, but dition very often set a value on things which reflection upon worthy actions; and he that are not prized by those who are in a higher places honour in a consciousness of well doing station of life, there are many things these will have but little relish for any outward ho-esteem which are in no value among persons mage that is paid him, since what gives him of an inferior rank. Common people are, in distinction to himself, cannot come within the particular, very much astonished when they observation of his beholders. Thus all the hear of those solemn contests and debates, words of lordship, honour, and grace, are which are made among the great upon the only repetitions to a man that the king has punctilios of a public ceremony; and wonder ordered him to be called so; but no evidences to hear that any business of consequence that there is any thing in himself, that would should be retarded by those little circumgive the man, who applies to him, those ideas, stances, which they represent to themselves as trifling and insignificant. I am mightily 'I have, most noble Pharamond, all honours pleased with a porter's decision in one of Mr. and all titles in your approbation: I tri-Southern's plays, which is founded upon that umph in them as they are your gift, 1 refuse fine distress of a virtuous woman's marrying a them as they are to give me the observation of second husband, while her first was yet living. others. Indulge me, my noble master, in this The first husband, who was supposed to have chastity of renown; let me know myself in been dead, returning to his house, after a long the favour of Pharamond; and look down up- absence, raises a noble perplexity for the on the applause of the people. I am, tragic part of the play. In the mean while the nurse and the porter conferring upon the difficulties that would ensue in such a case, honest Samson thinks the matter may be ea without the creation of his master. SIR, In all duty and loyalty, 'Your majesty's most obedient I need not tell with what disadvantages men of low fortunes and great modesty come Into the world; what wrong measures their diffidence of themselves, and fear of offending, often oblige them to take; and what a pity it is that their greatest virtues and qualities, that should soonest recommend them, are the main obstacles in the way of their preferment. sily decided, and solves it very judiciously by the old proverb, that, if his first master be still living, the man must have his mare again.' There is nothing in my time which has so much surprised and confounded the greatest part of my honest countrymen, as the present controversy between Count Rechteren and Monsieur Mesnager, which employs the wise heads of so many nations, and holds all the affairs of Europe in suspense. This sir, is my case; I was bred at a Upon my going into a coffee-house yester country-school, where I learned Latin and day, and lending an ear to the next table, Greek. The misfortunes of my family forced which was encompassed with a circle of infeme up to town, where a profession of the po- rior politicians, one of them, after having liter sort has protected me against infamy read over the news very attentively, broke and want. I am now clerk to a lawyer, and, out into the following remarks: 'I am afraid,' in times of vancy and recess from business, says he, this unhappy rupture between the have made myself master of Italian and footmen at Utrecht will retard the peace of French; and though the progress I have Christendom. I wish the pope may not be at made in my business has gained me reputa- the bottom of it. His holiness has a very tion enough for one of my standing, yet my good hand in fomenting a division, as the mind suggests to me every day, that it is not peor Swiss cantons have lately experienced to upon that foundation I am to build my for- their cost. If Monsieur What-d'ye-call-him's domestics will not come to an accommodation. The person I have my present dependence I do not know how the quarrel can be ended upon has in his nature, as well as in his power, but by a religious war. tune. |