appear to take little care of their children. Polygamy exists, and they will frequently give one of their wives to a friend who may be in want of one; but notwithstanding this laxity they are extremely jealous, and are very prompt to resent any freedom taken with their wives. Their quarrels for the most part are occasioned by the fair sex, and being the cause, they usually are the greatest sufferers; for the waddy is applied to their heads in a most unmerciful style, and few old women are to be seen who do not bear unquestionable marks of the hard usage they have received. The husband who suspects another of seducing his wife, either kills one or both. The affair is taken up by the tribe, if the party belongs to another, who inflict punishment on him in the following manner.

The guilty party is furnished with a shield, and made to stand at a suitable distance, and the whole tribe cast their spears at him; his expertness and activity often enable him to escape any serious injury, but instances do occur in which the party is killed. Such punishments are inflicted with great formality, upon an appointed day, and the whole tribe assemble to witness it. The person most injured has the first throw, and it depends upon the feelings of the tribe respecting the offence committed, whether they endeavour to do injury to the culprit or not; and thus it may be supposed that there is some judgment evinced in this mode of punishment.

The following account of the burial of their dead was received from the missionary who was an eyewitness to it. He was called out one evening to see a native, who they said was dying. On repairing to the camp, he was too late, for the man was already dead, and notwithstanding the short space of time that had elapsed, the corpse was already wrapped up for burial. The legs had been bent at the knees and hips, and tied to the body, and the head bent downwards towards the legs. In this position the corpse was enveloped in a blanket, and bound round with many ligatures, so as to form a shapeless lump. There were about fifty natives present, seated within a small space in front. The women were raising dismal lamentations and cutting themselves with sharp sticks; while the men were engaged in an earnest consultation as to the place which should be fixed upon for the burial. At length it was determined to be on the banks of the Macquarie, at no great distance from the mission station. On the following day the missionary proceeded to the place, and found that the natives had already cleared the grass from a space about twenty feet in diameter; in the centre of this the grave was marked out, of an oval shape, six feet long by three feet wide. After digging to the depth of about a foot, they left a ledge all around the grave of a few inches in width: the excavation, thus diminished in size, was continued to the depth of five feet, the sides not being exactly perpendicular, but sloping slightly inwards. the bottom of the grave was laid a bed of leaves, covered with an opossum-skin cloak, and having a stuffed bag of kangaroo-skin for a pillow; on this couch the body was laid, and the implements of hunting and war which the deceased had used during his lifetime were laid beside him. Leaves and branches of bushes were strewed over him, until the grave was filled up to the ledge or shelf above mentioned. Across the grave were laid

At

Arrival of convict-ship. Prison fare on board.

strong stakes, with the ends resting on this shelf, and on these a layer of stones, which filled the hole to the level of the soil. The excavated earth was then put over the whole, forming a conical heap eight or nine feet high. The trees on each side were marked with irregular incisions, but whether intended as symbols, or merely to identify the place of sepulture, was not understood. All the time this was going on fires were kept burning around the place, to drive away evil spirits, and the women and children uttered loud lamentations, inflicting at the same time wounds upon themselves. When the grave was completed, all the women and children were ordered away, and the missionary, perceiving that it was expected that he would do the same, retired also. His presumption was that they intended to give utterance to their grief, and that they were ashamed to do it in his presence, or before the women and children.

The day after the burial the natives visited every spot in which they recollected to have seen the deceased, and fumigated it, for the purpose of driving away the evil spirits. They even went into the missionaries' houses, greatly to the annoyance of the ladies.

Their style of mourning consists in bedaubing themselves with pipe-clay; and a more hideous object than an old woman thus tricked out can hardly be conceived. The body and limbs are streaked with it, and the face completely covered as with a mask, in which holes are left for the eyes, nostrils, and mouth. The mask is gradually removed, until the last that is seen of it is a small patch on the top of the head.

They have some idea of a future state, although some assert that the whole man dies, and that nothing is left of him; while others are of opinion that his spirit yet lives, either as a wandering ghost or in a state of metamorphosis, animating a bird or other creature of a lower order than man.

During our stay at Sydney, a convict-ship arrived; and being desirous of obtaining a view of her accommodations, and the mode of treating the convicts, I visited her. This vessel was prepared expressly for the purpose. Between decks, a strong grated barricade, well spiked with iron, is built across the ship at the steerage bulkhead. This affords the officers a free view of all that is going on among the prisoners.

Bunks for sleeping are placed on each side all the way to the bow, resembling those in a guard

room.

sons.

Each of these will accommodate five perThere is no outlet but through a door in the steerage bulkhead, and this is always guarded by a sentry. Light and air are admitted through the hatches, which are well and strongly grated. The guard is under the command of a sergeant, and is accommodated in the steerage, the whole being under the orders of a surgeon, whose duty it is to superintend and regulate every thing that relates to the prisoners, inspect the ship daily, and administer punishment, even unto death if necessary. The surgeon also has control over the master of the vessel and his regulations. The master and mates, on receiving a certificate from the surgeon, are allowed a small sum for every convict landed, in addition to their pay.

The criminals have prison fare, and are supplied with wooden-ware for their eating utensils, which are kept in a very nice order. The quarter-deck

is barricadoed near the main-mast, abaft of which all the arms and accoutrements of the guard and vessel are kept. The master and officers are usually lodged in the poop-cabin. The prisoners are habituated to the discipline of the ship, on board the hulks, before leaving England. The usual, and most effectual, punishment for misbehaviour is to place the culprit in a narrow box on deck, in which he is compelled to stand erect. This punishment is said to be effectual in reducing the most refractory male convicts to order, but it was not found so efficacious in the female convictship; for, when put in the box, they would bawl so loudly, and use their tongues so freely, that it was found necessary to increase the punishment by placing a cistern of water on the top of the box. This was turned over upon those who persist in using their tongues, and acted on the occupant as a shower-bath, the cooling effect of which was always and quickly efficacious in quieting them. I was informed that more than two such showers were never required to subdue the most turbulent.

I was struck with the ruddy, healthy, and athletic looks of the young convicts that were arriving, and from their deportment and countenances I should hardly have been inclined to believe that they had been the perpetrators of heinous crimes.

I am not at all surprised that many of the settlers of the colony should be opposed to the change in the assignment system; for when such a fine body of men is seen, the reason is easily understood, as the possession of such strong and hale persons to all intents and purposes as slaves, and at the expense of their maintenance alone, must be very lucrative to those requiring labourers. I am, on the other hand, at a loss to conceive how the assignment system can be looked upon in any other light than as a great evil, which must be abolished if it be designed to make the inhabitants of New South Wales a moral community, and to reform the convicts. It acts most unequally on the parties, and is a barrier to the reformation that the punishment of transportation is intended to effect.

The convicts on arriving are sent to the barracks at Sydney. The government selects from them such mechanics as are required for the public service, and then the numerous applicants for labourers are supplied. Those assigned to private employers are sent to the interior under the charge of a constable or overseer.

They build their own huts, and the climate being very fine, require but little shelter. The hours of labour are from six to six, and the quantity of labour exacted from them is about twothirds of what would be required in England. They are treated in all respects as if they were free, and no restraint is imposed, except that they cannot leave their masters, who, when they have no further use for them, return them to the government to be reassigned.

When on ticket of leave, they may reside in any place they choose to select.

The convict's time of probation depends upon the original term of his sentence; but on a commission of crime within the colony, it begins from his last conviction. For refractory conduct, they may be taken to the nearest magistrate, who orders

punishment on the oath of the master. The magistrate has also power to send them to the nearest chain-gang employed on public works. Here they are worked in irons, and kept on scanty food for a limited period, after which they may be returned to their masters. If badly treated, the convict may have the affair investigated, but redress comes slowly.

One of the great evils of the system is, that many of the convicts on arriving are assigned to persons in Sydney and other towns, the consequence of which is that they are exposed to the contaminations and temptations that are likely to beset them in those thickly-peopled places, and this too only a few months after their conviction in the mother country. This influence removes all hopes of reform, and they are usually soon found among the criminals of New South Wales.

All persons who are landholders may receive convicts as assigned servants, in the proportion of one to every three hundred and twenty acres, but no one proprietor can have in his employ more than seventy-five convicts.

Written application for labourers is made to the Board of Assignment, and the applicants must bind themselves to keep the assigned convict for at least one month, and to furnish him with food and clothing agreeably to the government regulations, which are as follows, viz.

The weekly rations consists of twelve pounds of wheat, or nine pounds of seconds flour; or, in lieu thereof, at the discretion of the master, three pounds of maize meal, and nine pounds of wheat, or seven pounds of seconds flour; with seven pounds of beef or mutton, and four pounds of corned pork, two ounces of salt, and two ounces of soap.

The clothing for a year is as follows, viz. two frocks or jackets, three shirts, of strong linen or cotton, two pairs of trousers, three pairs of shoes, of stout durable leather, one hat or cap, and the use of a good blanket and mattress belonging to the master.

Custom, however, has extended the above allowances, and the quantity of luxuries added in tobacco, sugar, tea, and grog, makes the amount nearly double. These additions have become absolutely necessary in order to procure work from the convicts, and the free supply of them is the only way in which they can be made to work in the harvest season. I was informed that a settler considered it all-important to have a large stock of these luxuries on hand at the season of pressure; for although the assigned servants do not actually refuse to work, they do so little, that, in order to save his crop, the master must yield them the extra indulgences.

Another evil attendant on the assignment system is the difference in the treatment they receive from those to whom they are assigned. On the arrival of a convict-ship, a large number of persons who have made applications to the Board, are in waiting; they of course know nothing of the character of the convicts, and, as I learned from a good source, no record is kept, or sent with the convicts themselves. The Board is entirely ignorant of their character or crimes, and thus can exercise no discrimination in assigning the convict to the hands of a good or of a hard master. The greatest villains may, therefore, fall into kind hands, while one who

is comparatively innocent may suffer much more than he deserves.

The punishment of transportation must continue very unequal until a classification be resorted to. Many convicts, by bad treatment, are confirmed in their vices.

For any misbehaviour, they are, as has been seen, subject to severe castigation upon their master's making oath before a magistrate. This not unfrequently drives the culprit or convict to further crime, and in revenge for these wrongs, he either neglects his master's interest, or has been known to set fire to his harvest when gathered.

The present system appears fitted to entail evil and misery on the colony, and there are few disinterested men who do not view it as calculated to prevent any moral improvement. Murders, robberies, and frauds are brought about by it, for which extreme punishments are of such frequent occurrence that it is a matter of astonishment that a stranger should remark that an execution had taken place. The day before our arrival five criminals had been hung, and more were to suffer in a few days.

These executions take place without causing any unusual excitement. There is little doubt that the convict population contains among its members many of the most abandoned wretches, and I am also aware that the governor and council are making every exertion to put a stop to the immorality and vice which so generally prevail; yet I am satisfied that the convicts who are assigned are, in some cases, goaded on to crime by the treatment they receive from their masters, who hold them as slaves, and degrade them to the level of the beast with whom they are forced to labour.

The season of our visit to Sydney was that of their summer (December), and it was somewhat difficult for us to realize the luxuriance of vegetation about us. We could hardly become familiar with windows and doors entirely open at Christmas time. Although it was properly the out-of-town season, we found much gaiety existing, and we have great pleasure in acknowledging the attentions and civilities extended to us during the whole of our stay.

The facilities for outfits here are such as are not to be found elsewhere in the Pacific. The mechanics are good, but as artisans are scarce their wages are exorbitant, and the employer is, for the most part, compelled to put up with their demands. From our experience, we inferred they are not to be depended on, and require to be well watched to obtain the requisite quantity of labour from them. Their rations of grog were always a stipulation made by them, and had to be complied with.

During our stay here, our men behaved well. They all received leave in their turn to visit the shore, and I felt gratified in not having a single case reported to me of bad behaviour on shore.

As our departure drew near, one and all of us felt and expressed regret at leaving such kind friends. In very many places and families, we had found ourselves at home, and were always received

Departure from Sydney.

with that kindness that showed us we were welcome. The seasons, with many other things, may be reversed, yet the hospitality of old England is found here as warm and fresh as ever it was in the parent land. It would be impossible to mention all those to whom we feel indebted for various kindnesses and attentions, or even to cite those from whom the expedition received many_accessions to its collections. Notwithstanding I have mentioned many things that have struck us as requiring great reform, yet the whole impression left on my mind is, that it is a glorious colony, which the mother country, and the whole Anglo-Saxon race, may well be proud of, and that it ought to claim much more attention than it apparently does from the home government.

After writing our farewell letters, we took our Christmas dinner with many of our friends, and on the morning of the 26th December, 1839, at six o'clock, we weighed our anchors and stood down the bay. The day was fine, the breeze light and contrary, and we did not get to sea till the afternoon. When we were about passing the heads, our worthy consul and some others of our countrymen took their leave, and by way of dispelling the gloom that was naturally felt at parting, and to show the good wishes entertained for their welfare, we gave them at parting several hearty cheers, and then bore away on our course.

It falling calm, the Vincennes and tender were obliged to anchor between the heads. The Peacock and Porpoise succeeded in getting outside, and when the tide made, we weighed and stood after them. On getting to sea, although every search had been previously made by the master-at-arms, I learned that there were two strangers on board, who had contrived to evade his watchfulness, and on beating to quarters, and mustering the crew, they were among the forthcoming. Their appearance was any thing but convict-like; but I felt after all the attentions heaped upon us, it was seemingly but an ungrateful return, to appear to have committed an infraction of their laws, and this after I had received intimation that an attempt would be made, through us, to effect desertion among the troops. From their appearance and carriage I thought they showed the drill of soldiers, and at once told them and the assembled crew, that they were mistaken if they expected to be harboured as such, and that on my return from the south, I should send them back to Sydney to be delivered over. I then entered them on the rolls for provisions only, until I ascertained whether they were entitled to receive compensation; and after telling the men they must look forward to a hard and dangerous cruise, and saying a few words relative to what was expected of them by the country and myself, I enjoined upon them the necessity of economy in their food and clothing, in aiding me in my endeavours to promote their health and comfort. We then piped down, and set about preparing the ship for the antarctic cruise, the events of which will be detailed in the following chapters.

THE subjects of which I am about to treat in the following chapters are exclusively nautical. I shall therefore adopt in treating them more of the form of a log-book, and follow the daily order of their occurrence with more strictness than I have hitherto considered necessary. This will be done in order to illustrate more fully the nature of the remote regions we traversed, and for the purpose of giving a more exact relation of the incidents of this part of our cruise,-incidents that I cannot but hope have made this part of our labours particularly interesting to all of our countrymen who possess a feeling of national pride.

The credit of these discoveries has been claimed on the part of one foreign nation, and their extent, nay, actual existence, called into question by another; both having rival expeditions abroad, one at the same time, the other the year succeeding.

Each of these nations, with what intent I shall not stop to inquire, has seemed disposed to rob us of the honour by underrating the importance of their own researches, and would restrict the antarctic land to the small parts they respectively saw. However willing I might be in a private capacity to avoid contesting their statements, and let truth make its own way, I feel it due to the honour of our flag to make a proper assertion of the priority of the claim of the American expedition, and of the greater extent of its discoveries and researches.

That land does exist within the antarctic circle is now confirmed by the united testimony of both French and English navigators. D'Urville, the celebrated French navigator, within a few days after land was seen by the three vessels of our squadron, reports that his boats landed on a small point of rocks, at the place (as I suppose) which appeared accessible to us in Piner's Bay, whence the Vincennes was driven by a violent gale; this he called Clarie Land, and testifies to his belief of the existence of a vast tract of land, where our view of it has left no doubt of its existence. Ross, on the other hand, penetrated to the latitude of 79° S. in the succeeding year, coasted for some distance along a lofty country connected with our antarctic continent, and establishes beyond all cavil the correctness of our assertion, that we have discovered, not a range of detached islands, but a vast antarctic continent. I took care to forward to Captain Ross a full account of the proceedings

of the squadron. Although I have never received any acknowledgment of their receipt from him personally, yet I have heard of their having reached his hands a few months prior to his antarctic cruise. Of this, however, I do not complain, and feel only the justifiable desire to maintain the truth in relation to a claim that is indisputable. The following narrative must, I feel satisfied, leave no doubt in any unprejudiced mind of the correctness of the assertion that we have discovered a vast continent; but I would ask in advance, who was there prior to 1840, either in this country or in Europe, that had the least idea that any large body of land existed to the south of New Holland? and who is there that now doubts the fact, whether he admits it to be a vast continent, or contends that it is only a collection of islands?

Examine all the maps and charts published up to that time, and upon them will any traces of such land be found? They will not, and for the very best of reasons-none was known or even suspected to exist. We ourselves anticipated no such discovery; the indications of it were received with doubt and hesitation; I myself did not venture to record in my private journal the certainty of land, until three days after those best acquainted with its appearance in these high latitudes were assured of the fact; and finally, to remove all possibility of doubt, and to prove conclusively that there was no deception in the case, views of the same land were taken from the vessels in three different positions, with the bearings of its peaks and promontories, by whose intersection their position is nearly as well established as the peaks of any of the islands we surveyed from the sea.

All doubt in relation to the reality of our discovery gradually wore away, and towards the close of the cruise of the Vincennes along the icy barrier, the mountains of the antarctic continent became familiar and of daily appearance, insomuch that the log-book, which is guardedly silent as to the time and date of its being first observed, now speaks throughout of "the land."

After leaving Sydney we had, until the 31st December, fine weather and favourable winds. We took advantage of these, and all sail was crowded on the vessels of the squadron. Under such circumstances, the usual order of sailing, in a line abreast, was easily maintained, and the communications between the vessels were frequent.

K

At the above date we had reached the latitude of 43° S.

During this favourable weather, all hands were employed in tightening the ports, in order to secure the interior of the vessels as much as possible from the cold and wet, which were to be apprehended in the region to which we were bound. For this purpose, after calking all the openings, the seams were covered with tarred canvass, over which strips of sheet-lead were nailed. The sailors exhibited great interest in these preparations, and studiously sought to make every thing snug; all useless articles were stowed away in the hold, for we were in truth full to overflowing.

Among other preparations, rough casings of boards were built around all the hatches, having doors furnished with weights and pulleys, in order to ensure that they should not be left open. Having thus provided for the exclusion of cold air, I contented myself with preparations for keeping the interior of the vessel at a temperature no higher than 50°. I deemed this preferable to a higher temperature, in order to prevent the injurious effects which might be produced by passing suddenly from below to the deck. I conceived it far more important to keep the air dry than warm, particularly as a lower temperature would have the effect of inducing the men to take exercise for the purpose of exciting their animal heat.

Aware that warm and dry clothing was an object of the first importance, inspections of the men's feet and dress were held morning and evening, in which the wearing of a suitable number of garments was insisted upon, as well as the greatest personal cleanliness. With the same views, the drying-stoves were particularly attended to; and that every part under deck might be effectually and quickly freed of moisture, additional stoves had been procured at Sydney. Thermometers were hung up in proper places, and frequently consulted, in order by following their indications to secure an equable temperature, and at the time to ascertain when the use of stoves might be dispensed with, in whole or in part. The latter was an important consideration, for we were under the necessity of husbanding our stock of fuel, by expending it only when absolutely necessary.

We also took advantage of the fine weather to bend all our best sails, and to shift our top-gallant

masts.

The 1st January, 1840, was one of those days which are termed, both at sea and on shore, a weather-breeder. The sea was smooth and placid, but the sky was in places lowering, and had a wintry cast, to which we had long been strangers; the temperature shortly began to fall, the breeze to increase, and the weather to become misty. In a few hours we were sailing rapidly through the water, with a rising sea, and by midnight it was reported that the tender Flying-Fish was barely visible. I shortened sail, but it was difficult to stop our way; and on the morning of the 2nd of January, the fog was dense, and the Peacock and Porpoise only were in sight; we hove-to, and the Peacock and Porpoise were ordered to stand east and west, in order to intercept the tender, but they returned without success; we also fired guns in hopes of being heard. In the afternoon, I deemed it useless to wait any longer for her, and that I must take the chance of falling in with her at

Emerald Island. Icebergs seen.

Macquarie Island, our first appointed place of rendezvous, a visit to which I had flattered myself might have been avoided, but which it became necessary now to make. We accordingly proceeded on our course for that island, with all sail set. This separation of the tender took place in the latitude of 48° S., and she was not again seen until our return. The officers and crew were not slow in assigning to the Flying-Fish a similar fate with her unfortunate mate, the Sea-Gull. Men-ofwar's men are prone to prognosticate evil, and on this occasion they were not wanting in various surmises. Woeful accounts were soon afloat of the distress the schooner was in when last seen, and this in quite a moderate sea.

The barometer now began to assume a lower range, and the temperature to fall below 50°. On the 3rd, the fog continuing very thick, the Peacock got beyond hearing of our horns, bells, drums, and guns, and was parted with. This, however, I did not now regret so much, as it was of little consequence whether we sought one or two vessels at our rendezvous, although it might cause a longer detention there.

The morning of the 7th was misty, with squally weather. A heavy sea rising, and a strong gale setting in, we lost sight of the Porpoise for a few hours. Being unable to see beyond an eighth of a mile, it was thought imprudent to run, for fear of passing Macquarie Island, and we hove-to to await its moderating. It cleared at noon, and we obtained an observation, by which we found ourselves in latitude 54° 20′ S., and longitude 160° 47' E. I found that we had been carried to the eastward upwards of twenty miles in less than eighteen hours; this, with the wind hauling to the southwest, brought us to leeward of the island, and the sea and wind increasing, I saw it was useless to attempt to reach it without great loss of time. therefore bore off to the southward for our second rendezvous, Emerald Island, or its supposed locality.

I

During the 9th we passed the site of Emerald Isle, situate, as has been stated, in latitude 57° 15' S., and longitude 162° 30' E., but saw nothing of it, nor any indications of land, which I therefore infer does not exist in the locality where it is laid down. We again experienced the south-east current of twenty miles a day. Our variation had increased to twenty-two degrees easterly. Making our course with all sail set, the Porpoise in company, we passed to-day some pieces of kelp. The temperature continued at 38°. Numerous flocks of gray petrels around us.

The 10th we encountered the first iceberg, and the temperature of the water fell to 32°. We passed close to it, and found it a mile long, and one hundred and eighty feet in height. We had now reached the latitude of 61° 8' S., and longitude 162° 32′ E. The current to-day set in the same direction as before, about half a mile per hour. The second iceberg seen was thirty miles, and the third about fifty-five miles south of the first. These ice-islands were apparently much worn by the sea into cavities, exhibiting fissures as though they were ready to be rent asunder, and showed an apparent stratification, much inclined to the horizon. The weather now became misty, and we had occasionally a little snow. I congratulated myself that we had but few on the sick-list, and all were in high spirits at the novelty of the cruise.