On the southern side of the great reef, are two small uninhabited islands.

These exploring islands are well situated for the resort of vessels. The anchorages are very safe and easily reached. They afford an abundance of fruit and vegetables. There are five openings in the large reef, two at the east end, two on the west, and one on the north side; all safe. Vessels wishing to anchor on the western side must enter one of the western passages, as the near approach of Vanua-valavo to the large reef does not admit of a passage for vessels between them.

On the 8th, the Porpoise sailed from the Exploring Isles, and continued the surveys of Okimbo and Naitamba, with the surrounding reefs, both attached and separate. The former is made up of three small isles, enclosed in the same reef, four miles east and west, by three miles north and south, which are seven miles to the north of the north-west point of Vanua-valavo. The detached reefs are from one to four miles in length; they are awash and dangerous. Okimbo is desolate, and affords nothing but turtles in the season, and some biche de mar.

Naitamba is high and rugged; it is of a circular form, one mile and a half in diameter. The reef does not extend beyond half a mile from it, and has no openings. It has few inhabitants.

The time having now arrived for our meeting at Somu-somu, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold bore up for that place, passing through Tasman's Straits, which lie between the islands of Kamia and Vuna. Both of these have many reefs projecting from their shores. This passage should not be attempted except in favourable weather, and the best time is during the morning hours, when the sun is to the eastward of the meridian. The currents are strong, and calms are very frequent under the highlands of Kamia and Lauthala. În passing through these straits, although they had a careful look-out at the mast-head they were close to a coral knoll before it was seen, and passed within a few feet of it. It had no more than eight feet of water on it. At noon they rounded the north point of Vuna, entering the Straits of Somusomu, and at two o'clock P.M. they reached the anchorage off the town of Somu somu.

Having finished all my business at Somu-somu on the 10th of June, at ten o'clock at night, I determined, notwithstanding the lateness of the hour, to get under way with the Flying-Fish, in order that I might take up the survey of the south side of Vanua-levu, beginning at Tokanova Point, early the next morning. We accordingly weighed anchor, and stood out of the Straits of Somu-somu.

In rounding Goat Island we did not give it a sufficient berth, and grounded on a sunken patch of coral, an accident which hurt the feelings of poor Tom the pilot more than it injured the tender. We remained on this shoal about an hour, and after getting off we drifted through the strait, and by daylight found ourselves in a position to begin the survey.

At an early hour, Lieutenant Case, Passed-Midshipman Harrison, and myself, took our boats and entered the reef. Mr. Sinclair was left in the tender, with orders to follow the reef close aboard, and directions to enter Fawn Harbour; but having in our progress along the reef discovered an opening, I made signal for the tender to enter. This

Fawn Harbour.-Island of Rativa. H.B.M. schooner Starling.

entrance appears to be unknown, and leads to a harbour which I called Baino, after a town that Tubou informed me was near by. It offers good anchorage, being protected by the coral reef, which extends off some distance. After the tender had fired guns for fixing our base line, a signal was made for her to get under way and proceed to Fawn Harbour four miles to leeward, and anchor at sunset. We joined her there, having brought up our work. This has been called Fawn Harbour after the name of an American brig, which was wrecked on the reef. In attempting to beat out, she missed stays and went ashore.

In the morning early we surveyed this small harbour; and the two chiefs having returned on hoard, we started on our surveys of the coast. The tender at the commencement gave us our base by sound, and we proceeded on our survey, leaving her to get under way, with orders to anchor at Savu-savu. We continued our work all day, and passed only one opening in the reef, which is near the small islet of Rativa, and offers little accommodation for any class of vessels.

In the afternoon I observed for chronometer sights on the small island of Rativa. Two miles beyond this, the reef joined the shore. Mr. Sinclair having conjectured that I had received erroneous information respecting the distance to Savu-savu, returned to this point to pick us up before dark, and finding an opening in the reef sufficient for small vessels, we took advantage of it to join the tender. I at first intended to anchor in this little harbour for the night; but when I reflected how necessary it was for me to return to Levuka, I determined, after getting on board, to take advantage of the strong breeze, and push direct for Ovolau, and at ten o'clock the next morning anchored at Levuka, where I found all well.

The Starling had sailed for Rewa with the rudder-pintles of the Peacock, which Lieutenant Underwood had succeeded in getting; and having heard that Captain Belcher was still at Rewa, determined to visit it, for the double purpose of seeing if we could afford him any further facility, and getting observations for latitude and meridian distance, as well as effecting a comparison with my intensity needles.

Having transferred Lieutenant Case to the Vincennes, Assistant-Surgeon Fox and Midshipman Henry joined the tender, and at noon we were again under way for Rewa, where we anchored at 9 P.M. I had the pleasure of finding Captain Belcher there. He was on the eve of sailing, having nearly completed the repairs of his ship, and was making his last series of observations.

The Starling had sailed for Mbenga a few days before, whither the Sulphur was to go to join her. Captain Belcher sailed the next evening; and the following day the tender was hauled in close to the beach of the island of Nukalau, in order to protect the spot where we were observing throughout the day, and guard against surprise upon us by the chiefs of Rewa, which place was but a few miles from us.

I was not a little amused at Captain Belcher's account of the effect of the regulations as operating upon his vessel. The chiefs required him to pay port-charges, and in default thereof refused to give him any supplies. In drawing up the Rules and Regulations for the trade, it had never oc

curred to me to mention men-of-war as being free, feeling assured that they would all very readily give five times the amount of the articles required in presents. But it appears that Captain Belcher did not think proper to make the customary present, and the chiefs refused to allow any supplies to go to his vessel until he should comply with the rules. This incensed the captain, and caused him to take offence at the missionaries, who he supposed prevented the supplies from being sent. I well knew, however, that they were guiltless. He likewise broke out into strong invectives against the chiefs, declaring that it was impossible they could understand the rules, &c., although the whole proceeding showed they were not only conversant with their meaning, but also with the power they had in their hands of compelling the visiter to pay.

Nukalau is a low, sandy island, well covered with wood. On the eastern side it has an extensive coral reef; but the western is clear, and may be approached closely. There is a pool of water on the island, but no one could water a ship there without the risk of causing sickness on board.

In the morning, before daylight, we got under way, on our return to Ovolau. The day having proved calm, we were at sunset yet some distance from the island. I concluded, therefore, to lay under Ambatiki for the night, and by 10 A.M. on the 18th, we again anchored at Levuka.

Lieutenant Underwood and Passed-Midshipman Sandford I found had returned from the survey of the islands of Angau, Nairai, and Ambatiki, to the eastward of Ovolau. David Whippy, the Maticum Ambau, had been sent with them as an interpreter, and to hold proper authority over the natives.

The first island which had occupied their attention was Ambatiki. It is in shape nearly an equilateral triangle, surrounded by a reef, which offers no protection for vessels, and only passages for boats. The island is seven hundred and fifty feet high, of a dome shape, and contains five hundred inhabitants, all subject (or ygalı) to Ambau. The people were civil, and gave them taro and yams in plenty, but would not part with any pigs. The reason given for this was, their fear of Tanoa. They live in villages, and seem thriving. The island has very little wood on it. The reefs extend one-third of a mile from its shore.

Nairai was the next island visited by them. They first anchored on the west end of the Onoruga Reef, that extends off from the middle of Nairai, five miles in a westerly direction. There is a passage between this and the Mothea, or Eliza Reef, stretching off from the island towards the south; and there are also a good passage and harbour between the reef and the island. The Cobu Rock is a good mark for the former passage, when it bears east. It lies a mile south of the south point of Nairai.

The boats anchored in the harbour of Venemole, which may be known by two small islets, joined to Nairai by the reef, which forms a protection against the north winds; and vessels of any draught of water may anchor here in fifteen fathoms, with good bottom, from a quarter to half a mile from the shore. Somewhat farther to the southward is a three-fathom bank, which is the only danger that exists inside the reef towards the Cobu Rock or south-west passage. About a mile to the north is

Venemole Bay. It is circular, with a narrow entrance, affording, seemingly, a good harbour; but, on examination, this entrance proved to be quite shallow. The bay had the appearance of having been an old crater; at low water, it may almost be said to become a lake. The officers were much struck with the beauty of the bay. It contains a village of the same name, and also another, called Tulailai; but both are small. The natives were quite peaceable.

They anchored at night off the town of Toaloa, which lies in a bight at the north end of the island, and proved the largest town on the island. Here David Whippy, acting as the "Maticum Ambau," obtained for them all kinds of provisions, and, by his exertions all night in superintending the cooking, they were prevented from being delayed the next day. Whippy told me that this island held a medium between mbati and ygali to Ambau, being not exactly in that state of servitude that the last would imply, nor yet as free as the first.

Nairai is famous for its manufactures of mats, Baskets, &c., a large trade in which is carried on throughout the group by exchanges.

The reef extends from the island four miles northward, and, where it ends, turns for a short distance to the westward. There are a few patches of rock on its western side, but none farther from it than half a mile. This is the reef on which the Flying-Fish struck on entering the group, and where she came near being lost. It does not join the island, but is connected with the Mothea, or Eliza Reef; and there is, between it and the island, a good ship channel, leading to the large bay of Corobamba. On the eastern side of thi bay, there is safe anchorage, in thirteen fathoms water, with a white sandy bottom. The reef, extending as it does to the southward for a long distance, protects it from the sea in that direction. A broad passage leads from Corobamba to the southward, and then passes between Cobu and Nairai to the south-west pass through the reef. The only danger is a small coral patch, lying east-south-east, a mile from the south end of the island, and a mile north of Cobu Rock.

The town of Corobamba lies at the bottom of the bay, and is next in size to Toaloa. The Cobu Rock is a singular one. It is inaccessible on three sides, of volcanic formation, and is enclosed by the Mothea Reef, which here spreads to the width of about three miles, and extends four miles farther south, where it forms a rounded point. The eastern side is an unbroken reef, but the western is somewhat irregular and broken, with many openings for boats.

Lieutenant Underwood ascended the Cobu Rock, for the purpose of obtaining angles; and, after observing these with his instrument, turning to take the compass's bearing, discovered a remarkable effect of local attraction. So great was this, as to cause a deviation of thirteen and a quarter points; Nairai, which was directly to the north, bearing, by compass, south-east-by-south quarter south, while, what was quite remarkable, at the foot of the rock, near the water, the same compass gave the bearing north, agreeing with that taken from the opposite bearing on Point Musilana.

one

They next fixed the southern point of Mothea Reef. This has obtained the name of the Eliza

Reef, from the loss of the brig of that name in 1809. On that occasion a large amount of dollars fell into the hands of the natives, who fished them up from the water. They were afterwards traded off to the whites, some of whom told me they yet occasionally saw a native wearing one as a kind of medal; but none fell under our notice. This accident brought the notorious rascal Charley Savage among them.

They now steered for the north-east point of Angau, whence the reef extends off one mile and a half, and has no deep water inside of it. It was, therefore, difficult to find a place where they could anchor the boats, but at last they found anchorage off the town of Vione, which is concealed from view by the mangrove bushes that line the shores of this island for several miles. Angau is much larger and higher than either Ambatiki or Nairai.

The reef continues round the east side, close to the island. There are several openings in it, but none that offer a fit place for a vessel to anchor. As the south side is approached, the reef extends off several miles, and the water upon it is so shoal that even the boats were forced to keep on the outside, and, for want of an opening, were obliged to anchor without the reef. In the morning they crossed the reef at high water, and soon got into deep water. The survey of the southern side proved there was safe anchorage, the holding-ground being good in twenty fathoms water in the bay, and opposite the town of Lakemba; but during a southerly blow, a vessel would be much exposed to the wind and sea. There are several openings and clear passages through the reef on the north-west side, and clear water round to the south, but the bights to the north are full of coral patches.

Having completed the surveys, agreeably to his instructions, Lieutenant Underwood returned by the way of Ambatiki, and reached Levuka after an absence of nine days. The men had been at their oars pulling almost constantly for the period of eight days, sleeping in the boats, and seldom allowed to land.

Mr. Knox and Colvocoresis were sent with the tender to complete the surveys of Wakaia, Mokungai, and Mekundranga. All three contain few inhabitants, and have been the scene of the horrid tragedies often committed by the stronger on the weak tribes of this group. There is a remarkable shelf formed near the centre of the island of Wakaia, which goes by the name of the Chief's or Chieftain's Leap. Near this there is now a small

town.

Mokungai fell under the displeasure of the Ambau chiefs, and the whole population was exterminated after a bloody battle on the beach of its little harbour. Some of the whites witnessed this transaction, and bear testimony to the bloody scene, and the cannibal feasting for days after, even on those bodies that were far gone to decay. They are both, as I have before said, under the rule of the chief of Levuka.

Wakaia now contains only about thirty inhabitants, whilst Mokungai has only one or two families.

These islands are in sight from Ovolau, from which they are separated by a strait of ten miles in width. Although several miles apart, they are situated within the same reef. There are several

openings leading through the reef near Wakaia, on its eastern side, but they cannot be recommended except for small vessels. I passed through one of them, but found it much blocked up with coral knolls. The entrance on the south-west side, leading to Flying-Fish Harbour, is quite narrow. On the west side of Mokungai there is also a small harbour, formed partly by reefs and partly by the little island of Mekundranga.

Finding, on examination, that there was a reef that had not been surveyed, orders were sent for the tender to return to Levuka, which she did on the following day, and on the next I sent her, with Lieutenant Underwood, to examine the reef off Angau. This reef is called Mumbolithe, and is situated fourteen miles to the south of Lobo Hill, the south-east point of Angau; it is oval in shape, and three-fourths of a mile in length; the sea breaks on it at all times.

In returning from this service, when off Nairai, they had a narrow escape from shipwreck, being nearly on the reef, in a dark night, before it was discovered. Any other vessel of the squadron but the Flying Fish would probably have been lost; but her admirable qualities were well proved in the exploration of this dangerous and unknown group.

On the 27th, the instruments were all embarked, and the return of the tender enabled me to put to sea in the Vincennes on the 28th of June. Intending to visit the hot springs of Savu-savu on Vanualevu, we left Levuka in the morning, and stood over towards the end of the Wakaia Reef, with the view of passing round it. It being Sunday, the Rev. Mr. Hunt, who was a passenger on board with me, volunteered to officiate for us, which was gladly accepted. After service, I found the wind would not permit my weathering the point of the reef; so I bore up to pass through the Mokungai Passage, with a strong breeze. After getting through (which we had some difficulty in doing, in consequence of the strong ebb tide setting to the southward and westward), I stood on towards Direction or Nemena Island, intending, as the wind was becoming light, to enter through the narrow passage in the reef, and anchor under it, rather than remain surrounded by reefs during the night.

The next day completed my observations, and finished the survey of Nemena, or Direction Isle. In the afternoon we got under way, and stood over

to the northward for Savu-savu on the island of Vanua-levu. The wind was quite light when we passed out of the reef, on the opposite side to that where we had entered it. I had previously sent two boats to examine the passage, and anchor in the deepest water. We approached the passage with a light air, having all sail set, but had very little headway. The water was perfectly clear, and the rocks, and fish, with the bottom and keel of the ship, were plainly visible. When we got in the passage, the officer in the boat told me that the keel looked as if it was in contact with the coral; the lead, however, gave three fathoms, one and a half feet to spare. It was a little exciting for twenty minutes, but we did not touch. If we had, the ship, in all probability, would have been a wreck; for as the tide was falling, she would have hung on the coral shelf, and been but partly supported by it. This is the great danger attendant on the navigation of this group, as indeed of all coral islands.

Ambush of the natives. Hot springs.

We were becalmed during the whole night; and the next morning, finding the calm still continued, I took to my boat, directing Lieutenant Carr to steer in for the bay when he got a breeze, supposing it would set in at the ordinary time, eleven o'clock. I landed on a small islet, about six miles from the place where I left the ship, and near the mouth of the bay. To reach the islet we pulled in over the reef, which had on it about four feet of water. The islet was composed of scoriaceous lava, much worn, and about twelve feet above the coral shelf. Here I established myself, and was busy securing my observations, when I discovered that my boat was aground, and that the tide was still falling. The islet as well as the reef became dry. It was not long before we observed the shadow of natives projecting from a rock about fifty yards from us, who it now appeared were watching us closely; and not long after not less than fifty shadows were seen in different directions. I at once ordered all the arms and ammunition to be brought up on the top, and made our situation as defensible as possible, for I had little doubt if they saw that we were unprepared they would attack us. The firing of one or two guns, and the show that we were all on our guard, at once caused a change in their intentions towards us, which they manifested by bringing articles of trade.

In the afternoon we again got under way, and proceeded farther up the bay, anchoring off Waicama, or the hot springs, in twenty-eight fathoms water. The bay of Savu-savu is a fine sheet of deep water, ten miles in length, east and west, by five miles in breadth, from north to south; it is surrounded by very high and broken land, rising in many places into lofty needle-shaped peaks; it is protected by the extensive reef reaching from Savu-savu Point on the east, to Kombelau on the west, excepting a large opening of about a mile in width, two miles distant from Savu-savu Point. On anchoring I despatched two boats, under Lieutenants Case and Underwood, to join the surveys we had made in the tender, as far as Rativa Island; they departed the same evening on this duty. The projection of land forming Savu-savu Point is much lower than that on the other sides of the bay.

I visited the hot springs, which are situated opposite a small island, round which a narrow arm of the bay passes, forming a small harbour; a considerable stream of fresh water enters the bay, about a mile above the situation of the springs. On landing, we found the beach absolutely steaming, and warm water oozing through the sand and gravel; in some places it was too hot to be borne by the feet.

The hot springs are five in number; they are situated at some distance from the beach, and are nine feet above the level of high water; they occupy a basin forty feet in diameter, about halfway between the base of the hill and the beach. A small brook of fresh water, three feet wide by two deep, passes so close to the basin, that one hand may be put into a scalding spring, and the other in water of the temperature of 75°. That of the spring stands at 200° to 210°. The waters join below, and the united streams stand at 145°, which diminish in temperature until they enter the

sea.

In the lower part of the bed of the united stream, excavations have been made, where the

239

natives bathe. The rock in the neighbourhood is compact coral and volcanic breccia, although it is no where to be seen exposed within a third of a mile of the spring. The ground about the spring is a deep brown and black mould, covered with coarse native grass, (a species of scirpus,) which is thickly matted. There is no smell of sulphur, except when the head is brought as close as possible to the water; but it has a strong saline taste. No gas appeared to be disengaged. The basin is in a mixture of blue and brown clay, and little grass grows in it.

These springs are used by the natives to boil their food, which is done by putting the taro or yams into the spring, and covering them up with leaves and grass. Although the water scarcely had any appearance of boiling before, rapid ebullition ensues. It gurgles up to a height of eight or ten inches, with the same noise as is made by a cauldron when over the fire. Taro, yams, &c., that were put in, were well done in about fifteen minutes. The mouths of the springs are from eighteen inches to two feet in diameter, and have apparently been excavated by the natives for their own purposes. The account they give of them is, that they have always been in the same state since the spirit first took up his abode there. They are convinced that he still resides there, and the natives say that one spring is kept pure for him, which they do not use.

On the 3rd of July the tender came in and anchored, having succeeded in accomplishing the survey of both the island of Goro and the Horseshoe Reef. The former is considered by the natives one of the most fruitful islands of the group; it is a high island, though not so much broken as the others, and, from appearance, would be susceptible of cultivation to its very top. It is surrounded by a reef, which is, for the most part, a shore-reef, and affords no harbour; there is, however, anchorage on the north-west side. The island is nine and a half miles long, by four miles wide. The produce of Goro is oil and tortoise-shell, and exceeds in quantity that of any other island of the group; its population is two thousand.

The Horseshoe Reef lies between Goro, Nairai, and Wakaia; it is an extremely dangerous one. The name is derived from its shape, and its opening is on the north side; it is even with the water, which after stormy weather may be seen breaking on it, from the heights of Ovolau; it is one mile in diameter; there are no other dangers nearer to it than the north reef of Nairai.

The bay of Savu-savu may be known by a remarkable saddle-shaped peak, lying just behind it; there are several other high peaks, that show the interior to be very rugged and high. Some of these peaks reach the altitude of four thousand feet.

At daylight on the 5th, the Vincennes got under way to proceed to Mbua or Sandalwood Bay, with a moderate and favourable breeze. I determined to take the outside passage off Kombelau Point, although that usually pursued, which is close to the land, is considered the safest. There is a reef off Kombelau Island, five miles in length by two in width; and beyond, and between it and the great Passage Island Reef, there is a passage supposed to be full of shoals. I had reason to believe, however, from the examination of Lieutenant Perry

and Mr. De Haven, that there would be no difficulty in taking the ship through, which I accordingly did. This channel has shoals in it, some with but a few feet of water over them, while others have sufficient for any class of vessels. The least water we had was nine fathoms. I believe we were enabled to locate all the shoals in it, and I think it a safe passage. With the sun in the east, and steering towards the west, the dangers are distinctly visible.

Beyond Buia Point the passage becomes still more intricate, and opposite Rabe-rabe Island it is quite narrow, though there is ample water for any vessel. We, however, went briskly on, having a fine breeze from the eastward. After getting sight of the Lecumba Point Reef, there is but a narrow channel into the bay, which we reached at half-past 3 P.M. The Peacock had just arrived from the north side of Vanua-levu, and anchored.

Mbua or Sandalwood Bay, though much filled with large reefs, offers ample space for anchorage.

Suva Harbour. Island of Mbenga.

The holding-ground is excellent, and the water not too deep. The bay is of the figure of a large segment of a circle, six miles in diameter, and is formed by Lecumba Point on the east and that of Dimba-dimba on the west. The land immediately surrounding it is low, but a few miles back it rises in high and picturesque peaks. That of Corobato is distinguished from the Vitilevu shore, and has an altitude of two thousand feet. The shores of the bay are lined with mangroves, and have, generally, extensive mud-flats. There are few facilities here for obtaining either wood or water, as the anchorage is a long distance from the shore. Several small streams enter the bay in its upper part, flowing from some distance in the interior. This was the principal place where the sandalwood was formerly obtained, but it has for some years past been exhausted. I shall defer speaking of this district until I have given an account of the operations of the Peacock.

On the 26th of May, the Peacock was off Vatulele. Leaving Mbenga to the north, Kantavu on the south, and passing through the sea of Kantavu, they had surveyed the south-west side of Vatulele, and afterwards stood for the opening in the reef off the west end of Vitilevu, through which they passed after sunset, anchoring on the inside of the reef of Navula, in thirteen fathoms water. This is the limit of the king of Rewa's authority.

On the morning of the 27th, they coasted along the land inside of the reef. The shores of Vitilevu are here low; but the land within a short distance rises to the height of one thousand feet, and has a brown and barren appearance. It is destitute of trees, except on the low points along the shores which are covered with mangrove (rhizophora) and cocoa-nut groves.

Towards sunset the vessel ran upon a coral lump, which gave her a considerable jar; but, on getting out a kedge, they very soon hauled off, when Captain Hudson anchored for the night.

In the evening, partly as a signal for the absent boats that were appointed to meet the ship here, and partly for effect on the natives, they fired an evening gun, burnt a blue-light, and set off three rockets, or as the natives term them, "fiery spirits." These brought forth many shouts from the land, which were audibly heard on board, although the

vessel was at a great distance from the shore. These signals were soon answered by a rocket from the boats, which joined the ship early the next morning.

Lieutenant Emmons, his officers, and boats' crews, were all well. No accident had occurred to them, and he reported that he had finished his work. After leaving the ship at Rewa, he passed outside the reef for several miles, until he came to a narrow and deep passage through the reef, which led to a spacious harbour, on which lies the village of Suva. The natives of this village told Mr. Emmons' interpreter, that they were subjects of the king of Rewa, and that they had lately become Christians. This is the village where the Reverend Mr. Cargill had been the Sunday preceding, and its inhabitants were the first proselytes he had.

Suva Harbour was surveyed and found to be an excellent one, free from shoals, well sheltered, and with good holding-ground, easy of ingress and egress, with an abundance of wood and water. It lies ten miles west of Rewa Roads.

On the 20th, the boats stood over for Mbenga. They found the current setting very strong to the eastward, which made a disagreeable short sea, obliging them to keep two hands bailing to prevent the boat from swamping. Towards night they