Range, which is a continuation of the Cascade Range of Oregon, and whose southern summits are capped with snow. This range gradually decreases in height, until it declines into hills of moderate elevation. To the east of the Californian Mountains are the vast sandy plains, of which we know but little, except that they form a wide tractless waste, destitute of every thing that can fit it for the habitation of man or beast.

The soil is as variable as the face of the country. On the coast range of hills there is little to invite the agriculturist, except in some vales of no great extent. These hills are, however, admirably adapted for raising herds and flocks, and are at present the feeding grounds of numerous deer, elk, &c., to which the short sweet grass and wild oats that are spread over them, afford a plentiful supply of food. No attempts have been made to cultivate the northern part of this section, nor is it susceptible of being the seat of any large agricultural operations.

The valley of the Sacramento, and that of San Juan, are the most fruitful parts of California, particularly the latter, which is capable of producing wheat, Indian corn, rye, oats, &c., with all the fruits of the temperate and many of the tropical climates. It likewise offers fine pasture-grounds for cattle. This region comprises a level plain, from fifteen to twenty miles in width, extending from the bay of San Francisco, beyond the mission of that name, north and south. This may be termed the garden of California; but although several small streams and lakes serve to water it, yet in dry seasons or droughts, not only the crops but the herbage also suffers extremely, and the cattle are deprived of food.

The Sierra affords little scope for cultivation, being much broken, barren, and sandy. It is in places covered with cedar, pine, and oak; but it offers few inducements to the settler. The great valley of Buena Ventura next succeeds, which, although it offers more prospects of profitable cultivation, is by all accounts far inferior to that of San Juan. It lies nearly parallel to the latter, and is watered by the San Joachim river and its

branches.

In this valley the Californian Indians principally dwell. The San Joachim receives its waters from the many streams that issue from the Californian range of mountains. These are well wooded, their base being covered with oaks, to which succeeds the red California cedar (schubertia abertina), and after it, in a still higher region, pines, until the snows are encountered. On the eastern side of this range, there is found very little timber, and in consequence of the want of moisture, trees do not flourish, even on the west side. The inland plain, constituting a large part of Upper California, is, according to all accounts, an arid waste; the few rivers that exist being periodical, and losing themselves in the sandy soil.

In climate, California varies as much if not even more than in natural features and soil. On the coast range, it has as high a mean temperature in winter as in summer. The latter is in fact the coldest part of the year, owing to the constant prevalence of the north-west winds, which blow with the regularity of a monsoon, and are exceedingly cold, damp, and uncomfortable, rendering fire often necessary for comfort in midsummer. This

Climate of California. The Sacramento.

is, however, but seldom resorted to, and many persons have informed me that they have suffered more from cold at Monterey, than in places of a much higher latitude. The climate thirty miles from the coast undergoes a great change, and in no part of the world is there to be found a finer or more equable one than in the valley of San Juan. It more resembles that of Andalusia, in Spain, than any other, and none can be more salubrious. The cold winds of the coast have become warmed, and have lost their force and violence, though they retain their freshness and purity. This strip of country is that in which the far-famed missions have been established; and the accounts of these have led many to believe that the whole of Upper California was well adapted for agricultural uses. This is not the case, for the small district already pointed out is the only section of country where these advantages are to be found. This valley extends beyond the pueblo of San Juan, or to the eastward of Monterey: it is of no great extent, being about twenty miles long by twelve wide.

The Sierra, which separates the valley of San Juan from that of Buena Ventura, is about one thousand five hundred feet high, barren and sandy. Pines cover its summit, and the climate is exceedingly dry and arid, though cooled by the fresh wind that passes beyond them. Next comes the central valley of Buena Ventura, which is a continuation of the Sacramento, and through which the San Joachim flows. Being confined within the two ranges of mountains, and not having the same causes operating to modify the temperature as the smaller valley of San Juan, the heats of its summer are oppressive, the thermometer ranging, it is said, higher than within the torrid zone, and the heat continuing without cessation.

Although the Californian Range is covered with snow in close proximity to this valley, it seems to have but little effect in modifying the climate, which is represented as tropical throughout the year. This valley extends as far south as the San Bernardino Mountain. The residents in California say that they have never known the wind to blow from the north-east within thirty miles of the

coast.

The Sacramento is the largest river in California. One of its branches, Destruction river, takes its rise near Mount Shaste, and was examined throughout the whole of its course by our land party, until it joined the Sacramento: the latter is thought by some to pass through the mountains and join Pitt's river. Pitt's river is said to take its rise to the north-east of the Shaste Mountain, and from the information that I received, extends as far as Pitt's Lake, under the forty-second parallel. I have reason to doubt whether the length of its course is so great, and believe that the Sacramento has its source in the easterns spurs of the Shaste Mountain.

The first branch of any size in descending the Sacramento is that called Feather river, which joins it below the Prairie Butes, coming from the north-east. This branch takes its rise in the California Mountains, near their northern end, and has a course of about forty miles. The American river is a small branch that joins the Sacramento at New Helvetia. After receiving this stream, the Sacramento is joined by the San Joachim, which courses from the south, and below their con

Harbour of San Francisco.-Imports and exports.-The grape in California.

Salmon fishery.-Water mills.Sheep and hogs.

303

Upper California may boast of one of the finest, if not the very best harbour in the world,-that of San Francisco. Few are more extensive or could be as readily defended as it; while the combined fleets of all the naval powers of Europe might moor in it. This is, however, the only really good harbour which this country possesses; for the others so called may be frequented only during the fine season, being nothing more than roadsteads, affording little safety and but few supplies to vessels.

The principal articles imported are cotton cloths, velvet, silks, brandies, wines, teas, &c.; in return for which they receive hides and tallow, skins, wheat, and salmon. The attention of the inhabitants has been principally directed to the raising of cattle, and the greater part of the wealth of California may be considered as consisting of live stock. The exportations, on the average of years, is about one hundred and fifty thousand hides, and two hundred thousand arrobas of tallow. From four to five hundred sea-otter skins are brought in by the American hunters, and are valued at thirty dollars each. The beaver skins are comparatively few. Wheat has been exported to the Russian posts, to the amount of twelve thousand bushels.

The yield of wheat is remarkable, and in some places, where the land is well situated, very large returns are received. Mr. Spears, of Yerba Buena, informed me that he had delivered to an active American farmer thirty bushels of wheat for seed, at a time when it was difficult to procure it, under an agreement that he should have the refusal of the crop at the market price. In the July following, he delivered him three thousand bushels, and on its delivery, he found that the farmer had reserved six hundred bushels for himself; and this, without estimating the loss from bad reaping and treading out with horses, would give one hundred and twenty for one. This is not considered a fair criterion or average, as the land was remarkable for its richness and was well attended to; but Mr. Spears and several others assured me that the average would be as high as eighty bushels yielded for one planted.

Indian corn yields well, as also potatoes, beans, and peas. The cultivation of vegetables is increasing rapidly, and supplies in these latter articles may be had in abundance and of the finest quality.

The country appears to be well adapted for grapes. Those that have been tried at the missions yield most abundantly; and about two hundred casks, each of eighteen gallons, of brandy, and the same quantity of wine, are made. The culti vation of the grape increases yearly, but is not sufficient for the supply of the country, as large quantities of foreign wines and liquors are im

California may not boast of its dense population, every intelligent person I met with agreed that it consumed more spirits in proportion than any other part of the world. The wine of the country which I tasted is miserable stuff, and would scarcely be taken for the juice of the grape.

The salmon-fishery, if attended to, would be a source of considerable profit, yet I was told that the Californians never seem disposed to attempt to take them. The general opinion is, that they are too indolent to bestir themselves, and they naturally choose the employment which gives them the least trouble. Above every thing, the rearing of cattle requires the least labour in this country, for it is only necessary to provide keepers and have their cattle marked. This done, they can support themselves by the increase of the stock. At the missions, the manufacture of various coarse articles had been undertaken by the missionaries as a step in the education of the neophytes. Among these were blankets and wearing apparel sufficient to supply all the Indians; but with the decline of these establishments, the manufactures have in great part been discontinued. Soap of a good quality is manufactured in considerable quantities, and it is thought that it might be exported at a profit, if the proper arrangements were made to use the grease that is now thrown away. The necessary alkali is very abundant. Leather of an excellent quality is also made and well tanned, but in such small quantities as to be hardly sufficient to supply the wants of the country.

There are in California only two or three watermills for grinding flour, and these are owned by foreigners. The mills in general used in the country, are composed of no more than two burr-stones. To the upper stone a cross-beam is secured, to which mule-power is applied. In most of the estancias there is to be found a mill in an apartment adjoining the kitchen, if not in it. The whole is as primitive as well can be, although I have no doubt it answers all the wants of this rude and indolent people.

From all accounts, besides cattle, the country is well adapted for the raising of sheep, which simply require watching, as they can find plenty of nutritious food the whole year round; but there has been no attention paid to this sort of stock, and the wool is of very ordinary quality. The mutton is thought to be of very fine flavour.

Hogs are raised in some parts, and might be fed to great advantage on the acorns which are abundant on the hills, where the land is not susceptible of cultivation. Pork may be packed at three dollars the hundred-weight. What adds to the facility of doing this business, is the fact that large quantities of salt collect in the ponds in the dry season, which may be obtained for the expense of carting it.

As respects trade, it may be said there is scarcely any, for it is so interrupted, and so much under the influence of the governor and the officers of the customs, that those attempting to carry on any under the forms usual elsewhere, would probably find it a losing business. Foreigners, however, contrive to evade this by keeping their vessels at anchor, and selling a large portion of their cargoes from on board. Great partiality is shown to those of them who have a full understanding with his

excellency the governor; and from what I was given to understand, if this be not secured, the traders are liable to exactions and vexations without number.

On the 20th of August, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold left the Vincennes with six boats, accompanied by Dr. Pickering, Lieutenants Alden and Budd, Passed-Midshipman Sandford, Midshipmen Hammersly and Elliott, and Gunner Williamson, with provisions for thirty days, accompanied by an Indian pilot. They first passed the islands of Angelos and Molate, next the points of San Pedro and San Pablo, and then entered the bay of San Pablo.

San Pablo Bay is of a form nearly circular, and ten miles in diameter; many small streams enter it on all sides, from the neighbouring hills. On the east side of this bay, the river Sacramento empties into it through the Straits of Kaquines.

The party took the south-east arm of the Sacramento, and proceeded up the stream for the distance of three miles, where they encamped, without water, that of the river being still brackish. The soil was hard, from being sunburnt, and the foot-marks of the cattle, which had been made during the last rainy season, still remained.

In the morning, they discovered that they had taken the wrong branch of the river, for this led immediately into the San Joachim. They, in consequence, returned to the entrance, where they began their survey. On the 23rd, they reached the residence of Captain Suter, and encamped on the opposite bank.

Captain Suter is a Swiss by birth, and informed them that he had been a lieutenant in the Swiss guards during the time of Charles X. Soon after the revolution of July, he came to the United States, and passed several years in the state of Missouri. He has but recently removed to California, where he has obtained from the government a conditional grant of thirty leagues square, bounded by the Sacramento on the west, and extending as far up the river as the Prairie Butes. The spot he has chosen for the erection of his dwelling and fortification, he has called New Helvetia; it is situated on the summit of a small knoll, rising from the level prairie, two miles from the east bank of the Sacramento, and fifty miles from its mouth. New Helvetia is bounded on the north by the American Fork, a small serpentine stream, which has a course of but a few miles. This river, having a bar near its mouth, no vessels larger than boats can enter it. At this place the Sacramento is eight hundred feet wide, and this may be termed the head of its navigation during the dry season, or the stage of low water.

When Captain Suter first settled here in 1839, he was surrounded by some of the most hostile tribes of Indians on the river; but by his energy and management, with the aid of a small party of trappers, has thus far prevented opposition to his plans. He has even succeeded in winning the goodwill of the Indians, who are now labouring for him in building houses, and a line of wall, to protect him against the inroads or attacks that he apprehends, more from the present authorities of the land, than from the tribes about him, who are now working in his employ. He holds, by appointment of the government, the office of administrador, and has, according to his own belief, supreme power in

New Helvetia.-Route to the United States.-Mouth of Feather river.

his own district, condemning, acquitting, and punishing, as well as marrying and burying those who are under him. He treats the Indians very kindly, and pays them well for their services in trapping and working for him. His object is to attach them, as much as possible, to his interests, that in case of need he may rely upon their chiefs for assistance.

Captain Suter has commenced extensive operations in farming; but in the year of our visit the drought had affected him, as well as others, and ruined all his crops. About forty Indians were at work for him, whom he had taught to make adobes. The agreement for their services is usually made with their chiefs, and in this way as many as are wanted are readily obtained. These chiefs have far more authority over their tribes than those we had seen to the north; and in the opinion of an intelligent American, they have more power over and are more respected by their tribes than those of any other North American Indians. Connected with the establishment, Captain Suter has erected a distillery, in which he makes a kind of pisco from the wild grape of the country.

New Helvetia was found to be in latitude 38° 33′ 45′′ N., and longitude 121° 40′ 5′′ W.

The best route from New Helvetia to the United States is to follow the San Joachim for sixty miles, thence easterly, through a gap in the Snowy Mountains, by a good beaten road; thence the course is north-easterly to Mary's river, which flows southeast and has no outlet, but loses itself in a lake; thence continuing in the same direction, the Portneuf river, in the Upper Shoshone, is reached; and thence to Fort Hall. According to Dr. Marsh, (an American of much intelligence, resident at the mouth of the San Joachim, to whom we are indebted for much information of the country,) there is plenty of fresh water and pasturage all the way, and no proper desert between the Californian Range and the Colorado.

On the 25th, the boats left New Helvetia. It was discovered, previous to starting, that four men had deserted from their party. This is a common circumstance in this port, and very few vessels visit it without losing some portion of their crews. The dissolute habits of the people form such strong temptations for sailors, that few can resist them. A number of men who were deserters were continually around us. Among others, the sergeant and marine guard that had deserted from H.B.M. ship Sulphur were the most troublesome. Their appearance did not prove that they had changed their situation for the better.

Ten miles up the river, a sand-bar occurred, over which it was found that the launch could not pass. Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold therefore left her at this place, under charge of Mr. Williams, taking sufficient provisions in the boats. The oaks became more scattered, and the soil thickly covered with vegetation, although parched up by continued drought.

On the 26th, they reached the mouth of Feather river, which is fifteen miles above New Helvetia. It appeared nearly as broad as the main stream, but there is a bar extending the whole distance across it, on which the boats grounded. On the point of the fork, the ground was strewed with the skulls and bones of an Indian tribe, all of whom are said to have died, within a few years, of the

tertian fever, and to have nearly become extinct in consequence.

Game is represented to have decreased in this vicinity, from the numbers destroyed by the parties of the Hudson Bay Company, who annually frequent these grounds. Large flocks of curlew were seen around; and the California quail, which disappeared since leaving the coast, was again seen. The trees that line the banks consist of the cottonwood, &c. Single oaks, with short grass beneath them, are scattered over the plain.

As they advanced, game became more plentiful, and elks were found in abundance: some were of large size, and at this season of the year, the rutting, they are seen generally in pairs; but at other times, the females are in large herds. They are fine-looking animals, with very large antlers, and seemed, in the first instance, devoid of fear. The herds are usually thirty to forty in number, and are chiefly composed of females and their young. The father of the flock is always conspicuous, and with his horns seemed to overshadow and protect the family.

The tula or bulrush was found in great quantities, growing on the banks. The Indians use its roots as food, either raw, or mixed with the grass seed, which forms the principal article of their food. This root is likewise eaten by the grisly bear.

At the encamping-place was a grove of poplars of large size, some of which were seventy feet high, and two and a half feet in diameter. The leaf resembled that of the American aspen. At night they had a slight thunder-shower. The wolves

and bears had entered the camp during the night, although there was a watch kept at each end of it. The howling of the wolves was almost constant.

On the 27th, the current in the Sacramento had become much more rapid, and the snags more frequent; its banks were on an average about twenty feet above the water, though there was every appearance on them of their having been overflowed.

On the 29th, they for the first time met Indians, who appeared quite shy, concealing themselves behind trees. As they increased in numbers, however, they became more confident, and invited the party to land. Towards noon the character of the country began to change, and trees of a larger size than before were seen, growing out from the banks. A little after noon, they met with the remains of a fish-weir. Some Indians were seen along the banks, armed with bows, arrows, and lances : none but males appeared; they, however, made no hostile demonstrations.

Game and fur-bearing animals had become more numerous, and among them were the lynx and fox. The latter is the species whose fur brings a high price in China, where as much as twenty dollars is paid for a skin. This fox is said to have one peculiarity, namely, that when chased it will ascend trees. Bears were also in great numbers. It is reported that they will sometimes attack and eat the Indians.

The Indians observed by the party were generally fine robust men, of low stature, and badly formed; but the chiefs, five or six in number, were fully equal in size to the whites, though inferior in stature and good-looking as compared with the generality of the Polynesians. They had a strong resemblance to the latter, except that the nose was

not so flat and their colour rather darker. Although the men go naked, the women are said to wear the maro. The males seemed to be exceedingly jealous, on account, it is said, of the unprincipled conduct of the whites who have occasionally passed among them. Their hair is not worn as long as it is by the northern Indians, and is much thicker. They had beards and whiskers an inch or two long, very soft and fine.

On the morning when the party were breaking up camp to embark, an Indian boldly seized the bowie-knife-pistol of Dr. Pickering, and made at once for the woods. He had chosen his time well, for no arms were at hand. Several of the men pursued him, but by his alertness he eluded all pursuit; and having gained the bushes, escaped with his prize.

This act, committed in open daylight, and at the risk of life, shows how strong is their propensity to steal. All the other Indians present soon understood the difficulty, and at once took their departure. The chief was not present; those who were concerned in the theft had not been before seen, and it was conjectured belonged to one of the rancherias higher up the river. A short distance above the place where this occurred, they met the chief, to whom the theft was made known, and who promised to restore the stolen article.

At noon they passed the Prairie Butes, which are a collection of isolated hills, rising from the level plain, as if out of the sea. Indians were seen on the west bank of the river, with a number of women in company, who seemed well disposed to enter into communication, as they motioned the party to land.

In the afternoon they encamped on the west bank, at a considerable distance above the Butes. The river was here only two hundred feet wide, and its banks but fifteen feet high. The trees on the shores had now become quite thick, and grew with great luxuriance; so much so, that were the sight confined to the river banks, it might be supposed that the country was one continued forest, instead of an open prairie.

The Indians who visited them at this camp, were less timid, and a much finer-looking set of men than those before seen. They allowed the officers and men to examine their bows and arrows, and appeared to have confidence in our good feeling towards them. The old chief welcomed the party, granted them permission to encamp on the bank, and then departing with all his tribe, nothing more was seen of him until late the next morning.

On the 31st, they again proceeded, and passed several Indian villages. Before noon, they arrived at a substantially-built fish-weir, of which the Indians began to take a part down, but LieutenantCommandant Ringgold deeming that this was the termination of his exploration, motioned to them to desist.

The river was examined for two or three miles above, and found to be filled with rapids, and innumerable difficulties caused by snags and sandbars. Here Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold ascertained his position to be in latitude 39° 13′ 39′′ N., longitude 122° 12′ 17′′ W., which, joined to the work of the land party, gives the exploration of the whole extent of the Sacramento river, from its source to the sea, a distance of two hundred miles. The first fork, or the junction of Pitt's with that of

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