watchfulness and constant anxiety; the hidden shoals and reefs, and the sweep of the tide, which leave him no control over his vessel.

Through the night, which was exceedingly dark, we sounded every twenty minutes, but found no bottom; and at daylight on the 7th, we made the islands of Cagayan Sooloo, in latitude 7° 3′ 30′′ N., longitude 118° 37′ E. The tide or current was passing the islands to the west-south-west, threequarters of a mile per hour; we had soundings of seventy-five fathoms. Cagayan Sooloo has a pleasant appearance from the sea, and may be termed a high island. It is less covered with undergrowth and mangrove-bushes than the neighbouring islands, and the reefs are comparatively small. It has fallen off in importance; and by comparing former accounts with those I received, and from its present aspect, it would seem that it has decreased both in population and products. Its caves formerly supplied a large quantity of edible birds'nests; large numbers of cattle were to be found upon it; and its cultivation was carried on to some extent. These articles of commerce are not so much attended to at the present time, and the biche-de-mar and tortoise-shell, formerly brought hither, are now carried to other places. There is a small anchorage on the west side, but we did not visit it. There are no dangers near these small islands that may not be guarded against. Our survey extended only to their size and situation, as I deemed it my duty to devote all the remainder of the time I had to spare to the Straits of Balabac.

At 9 A.M. of the 8th, we made the Mangsee Islands ahead of us, and likewise Balabac to the north, and Balambangan to the south. Several sand-banks and extensive reefs were also seen between them. On seeing the ground on which we had to operate, of which the published charts give no idea whatever, I determined to proceed, and take a central position with the ship under the Mangsee Islands; but in order not to lose time, I hoisted out and dropped two boats, under Lieutenant Perry, to survey the first sand-bank we came to, which lies a few miles to the eastward of these islands, with orders to effect this duty and join me at the anchorage, or find a shelter under the lee of the islands.

At half-past 2 P.M. we anchored near the reef, in thirty-six fathoms water. I thought myself fortunate in getting bottom, as the reefs on closing with them seemed to indicate but little appearance of it.

The rest of the day was spent in preparing the boats for our operations. I now felt the want of the tender. Although, in the absence of this vessel, great exposure was necessary to effect this survey, I found both officers and men cheerful and willing. The parties were organized, the first to proceed to the north, towards Balabac Island, to survey the intermediate shoals and reefs, under Lieutenant Emmons and Mr. Totten; the second to the south, under Lieutenants Perry and Budd; and Mr. Hammersly for the survey of the shoals of Balambangan and Banguey, and their reefs. The examination of the Mangsee Islands, and the reefs adjacent, with the astronomical and magnetic observations, &c., devolved on myself and those who remained on board the ship.

The weather was watched with anxiety, and

Island of Balambangan.

turned out disagreeable, heavy showers and strong winds prevailing; notwithstanding, the boats were despatched, after being as well protected against it as possible. We flattered ourselves that these extensive reefs would produce a fine harvest of shells; but, although every exertion was made in the search, we did not add as many to our collections as we anticipated. Some land-shells, however, were found that we little expected to meet with, for many of the trees were covered with them, and on cutting them down, large quantities were easily obtained. Mr. Peale shot several birds, among which was a Nicobar pigeon; some interesting plants and corals were also added. On the island a large quantity of drift-wood was found, which with that which is growing affords ample supplies of fuel for ships. No fresh water is to be had, except by digging, the island being but a few feet above high-water mark.

Although the time was somewhat unfavourable, Lieutenant Emmons and party executed their orders within the time designated, and met with no other obstructions than the inclemency of the weather. This was not, however, the case with Lieutenant Perry, who, near a small beach on the island of Balambangan, encountered some Sooloos, who were disposed to attack him. The natives, no doubt, were under the impression that the boats were from some shipwrecked vessel. They were all well armed, and apparently prepared to take advantage of the party if possible; but, by the prudence and forbearance of this officer, collision was avoided, and his party saved from an attack.

It

The island of Balambangan was obtained from the Sooloos for a settlement and place of deposit, by the East India Company, who took possession of it in 1773. Its situation off the northern end of Borneo, near the fertile district of that island, its central position, and its two fine ports, offered great advantages for commerce, and for its becoming a great entrepôt for the riches of this archipelago. Troops, and stores of all kinds, were sent from India; numbers of Chinese and Malays were induced to settle; and Mr. Herbert, one of the council of Bencoolen, was appointed governor. had been supposed to be a healthy place, as the island was elevated, and therefore probably free from malaria; but in 1775 the native troops from India became much reduced from sickness, and the post consequently much weakened. This, with the absence of the cruisers from the harbour, afforded a favourable opportunity for its capture; and the wealth that it was supposed to contain created an inducement that proved too great for the hordes of marauding pirates to resist. Choosing their time, they rushed upon the sentries, put them to death, took possession of the guns, and turned them against the garrison, only a few of whom made their escape on board of a small vessel. The booty in goods and valuables was said to have been very large, amounting to nearly four hundred thousand pounds sterling.

As the principal objects of my visit were to ascertain the disposition and resources of the Sooloos for trade, and to examine the straits leading into the Sooloo seas, in order to facilitate the communication with China, by avoiding on the one hand the eastern route, and on the other the dangers of the Palawan Passage, it may be as well to give the result of the latter inquiry.

The difficulties in the Palawan Passage arising from heavy seas and fresh gales do not exist in the Sooloo Sea, nor are the shoals so numerous or so dangerous. In the place of storms and rough water, smooth seas are found, and for most of the time moderate breezes, which do not subject a vessel to the wear and tear experienced in beating up against

a monsoon.

The Straits of Balabac may be easily reached, either from Singapore, or by beating up along the western shore of Borneo. When the straits are reached, a vessel by choosing her time may easily pass through them by daylight, even by beating when the wind is ahead. Once through, the way is clear, with the exception of a few coral lumps; the occasional occurrence of the north wind will enable a vessel to pass directly to the shores of the island of Panay. A fair wind will ordinarily prevail along that island, and, as I have already mentioned, it may be approached closely. The passage through to the eastward of Mindoro Island may be taken in preference to that on the west side through the Mindoro Strait, and thus all the reefs and shoals will be avoided. Thence, the western coast of Luzon will be followed to the north, as in the old route.

I do not think it necessary to point out any particular route through the Sooloo Sea, as vessels must be guided chiefly as the winds blow, but I would generally avoid approaching the Sooloo Islands, as the currents are more rapid, and set rather to the southward. Wherever there is anchorage, it would be advisable to anchor at night, as much time might thus be saved, and a knowledge of the currents or sets of the tides obtained. Perhaps it would be as well to caution those who are venturesome, that it is necessary to keep a good look-out, and those who are timid, that there does not appear to be much danger from the piratical prahus, unless a vessel gets on shore in that case it will not be long before they will be seen collecting in the horizon in large numbers. To conclude, I am satisfied that under ordinary circumstances, to pass through the Sooloo Sea will shorten by several days the passage to Manilla or Canton, and be a great saving of expense in the wear and tear of a ship and her canvass.

On the 13th, we passed near the location of the Viper Shoal, but saw nothing of it. It is, therefore, marked doubtful on the chart. As I had but little time to spare, the look-outs were doubled, and we pursued our course throughout the night, sounding as we went every fifteen minutes; but nothing met our view.

On the 18th, we made Pulo Aor and Pulo Pedang, and arriving off the Straits of Singapore I hove-to, to await daylight. In the morning at dawn, we found ourselves in close company with a Chinese junk. The 19th, until late in the afternoon, we were in the Singapore Straits, making but slow progress towards this emporium of the east. The number of native as well as foreign vessels which

we passed, proved that we were approaching some great mart, and at 5 P.M. we dropped our anchor in Singapore Roads. Here we found the Porpoise, Oregon, and Flying-Fish, all well: the two former had arrived on the 22nd of January, nearly a month before, and the latter three days previously. Before concluding this chapter, I shall revert to their proceedings since our separation off the Sandwich Islands.

The instructions to the brigs have been heretofore given; but it may not be amiss to repeat here that the object in detaching them was, that they might explore the line of reefs and islands known to exist to the northward and westward of the Hawaiian Group, and thence continue their course towards the coast of Japan. Had they effected the latter object, it would have given important results in relation to the force of the currents, and the temperature of the water. It was desirable, if possible, to ascertain with certainty the existence on the coast of Japan of a current similar to the Gulf Stream, to which my attention had been particularly drawn.

The first land they made was on the 1st of December, 1841, and was Necker Island. Birds, especially the white tern, had been seen in numbers prior to its announcement. Necker Island is apparently a mass of volcanic rocks, about three hundred feet high, and is destitute of any kind of vegetation, but covered with guano. It is surrounded by a reef, three miles from which soundings were obtained, in twenty fathoms water. The furious surf that was beating on all sides of the island, precluded all possibility of a landing being made. By the connected observations of the vessels, it lies in longitude 164° 37' W., and latitude 23° 44' N.

The French-Frigate Shoal was seen on the 3rd; the weather proved bad, and they were unable to execute the work of examining this reef. The sea was breaking furiously upon it.

On the 7th, the Maro Reef was made in latitude 25° 24′ 29′′ N., longitude 170° 43′ 24′′ W. Bottom was found at a distance of four miles from the reef, with forty-five fathoms of line. On the 8th, they passed over the site of Neva Isle, as laid down by Arrowsmith, but no indications of land were

seen.

On the 11th, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold determined, on account of the condition of the brigs, and the continuance of bad weather, it was impossible to keep their course to the northward and westward towards the coast of Japan: he therefore hauled to the southward, which was much to be regretted, and followed so very nearly in the same track as that pursued by the Vincennes, towards the China seas, that nothing new was elicited by them.

After a passage of fifty-six days from the Sandwich Islands, they dropped their anchors in Singapore on the 19th of January, 1842, all well.

N

RIVER

RACES-SHIP

WE found at Singapore a collection of shipping, | of various sizes, from the tiny cockboat to the stately and well-formed Indiaman, from the vast hulk-like junk to the light and skipping sampan*. Not only were a great part of the vessels of a novel description, but their national flags were equally strange. Many of the latter were now seen by us for the first time, and were displayed in various ways; some flew at each masthead, others floated from horizontal yards, while the more civilized nations were distinguished by ensigns pendent from the peak.

The variety in the style of paint and ornament was equally great. The Chinese junks exhibited their arched sides painted in curved streaks of red, yellow, and white; the Siamese ships, half European in structure and model, showed huge carved sterns; and these were contrasted with the long, low, and dark hulls of the prahus and the opiumsmuggler. The two latter classes perhaps excited the greatest attention, in consequence of the war they are continually carrying on against the property and lives, as well as the morals and laws, of the natives of the surrounding countries.

It is difficult to estimate the average number of vessels that are to be seen in the roads of Singapore; for on some days they appear crowded, while on others they are comparatively empty. While many vessels are continually arriving and departing, the Chinese junks alone appear as fixtures; more than fifty of them were counted, with sails unbent, yards housed, and rudders unhung, in which state they resemble floating shops, wherein are offered for sale assortments of every article produced or manufactured in the Celestial Empire; samples of which, by way of sign, are to be seen hanging about them in all directions. These junks make no more than one voyage a year, performing their passage in either direction during the favouring monsoon.

Unlike other ports, the water presents at first so many objects to attract the attention, that the land and town remain unnoticed until the curiosity in relation to those which are afloat is satisfied. On turning to view the town, its situation appears to be low, as well as that of the island on which it is built. The highest point of the latter is not more than five hundred feet above the level of the sea, and even this elevation is distant, so that there is

The sampan is a light and easy-pulling boat, used at Singapore to carry passengers to and from the shipping in the roads.

nothing to render the scenery picturesque, nor has it much of the character that is styled Oriental. The distant jungle, however, relieved by the white portions of buildings in the European style, furnishes a landscape pleasing to the eye. These buildings seem to be upon the very beach, while a hill in the rear is crowned by the dwelling of the governor, near which is the flag-staff. The intervening space is filled with buildings, whose style holds an intermediate place between that of Europe and that of the Chinese and Malays, neither of which predominates so much as to give its distinctive character to the scene.

The stranger, after anchoring in the roads, is not long before he discovers the point at which the river discharges itself; for one continued stream of boats, sampans, and prahus, is seen tending to a point in the beach, where the entrance is partly concealed from view; neither can he be long ignorant how large a concourse of various races is here assembled. Our ship was crowded from an early hour with tailors, shoemakers, washerwomen, and venders of curiosities. The latter brought shells, birds of paradise, monkeys, parrots, corals, and mats. Without board there were innumerable bumboats, bringing for sale fresh bread, eggs, milk, chickens, and ducks, both alive and cooked, fish, fruit, and vegetables. All sued piteously for permission to come alongside, and made a prodigious clatter. The features, dress, and language of the venders were as various as the articles they had to sell; and they agreed only in the common character of a dark skin. The specimen thus presented of the population of Singapore prepared us for the sight of the motley group we were to meet on shore.

At Singapore I had the pleasure of renewing my acquaintance with Mr. Balestier, our worthy consul. To him, his lady, and his son, we are under many obligations for their kind treatment and attention. Mr. Balestier is so well known among men of science in the United States, it would be needless for me to say that from him I derived much interesting information relative to the place, its commerce, &c., for which I here offer my acknowledgments. He was extensively engaged in the cultivation of sugar, on a plantation of one thousand acres, within two miles of Singapore, nearly half of which was under cultivation. This extent of ground he has by his exertions reclaimed from the jungle, and it bids fair to repay the labour and expense he has incurred in clearing and bringing it into cultivation. He is the first

person who has attempted the cultivation of sugar at Singapore, and for his success he was awarded the gold medal of the Calcutta Agricultural Society.

As we passed through the vessels with which the roads were crowded on our way to the shore, the hum of voices was plainly audible, particularly from the Chinese junks, which seemed not unlike a human hive. On reaching the mouth of the river, as was to be expected, the crowd thickened, and the way became more and more obstructed, until we were fairly jammed among the sampans, with their crowded population. The river does not exceed two hundred and fifty feet in width. It is shallow at its mouth, and passes through the centre, or rather divides the old from the new town; these are connected by a wooden bridge. As far up as the bridge, which is about onethird of a mile from the entrance, the river is of various widths, and its banks have been carefully built up with stone, having steps occasionally for the convenience of landing from the boats. A large population is on the river, dwelling in the sampans, which are all crowded with men, women, and children, the latter naked, and frolicking in and out of the water at pleasure. These boats are ranged in rows on each side of the passage towards the bridge, and are confined by stakes stuck in the bottom. As may be well imagined, there are frequent accidents and misadventures, that call for the exercise of the lungs of this crowded multitude, yet during the many opportunities I had of viewing them, both by day and night, I have seldom seen a set of people apparently so contented.

We landed at the bridge, near which is the office of our consul, in a large quadrangular building, one side of which faces the river. The terms of old and new town promise a difference of architecture as well as inhabitants, which they amply fulfil. The former occupies the south-west or lefthand side of the river, and exhibits along the quay a fine row of stuccoed or chunamed warehouses. The lower story of the greater part of these is an arcade supported by pillars at short distances. They are only two stories high, devoid of architectural ornament, but are convenient buildings for the trade. On the right are to be seen the buildings appropriated to the government offices. These are situated on an extensive parade-ground, studded with a few fine trees. The houses having extensive porticoes, and being adorned with flowers in large vases, have rather an elegant appearance, but this is in part dissipated on a nearer approach. They are usually enclosed with low walls, surmounted by iron railings, within which are small flower-gardens, that do not, however, display much taste.

The bridge which connects the two towns is by far the most attractive place in Singapore, for the constant passing and repassing across this thoroughfare makes it particularly amusing to a stranger. The consul's rooms were so situated as to command a free view of this moving panorama. The number of Asiatic nations that frequent Singapore is said to be twenty-four, consisting of Chinese, Hindoos, Malays, Jews, Armenians, Parsees, Bugists, besides Europeans. The variety of costume exhibited may therefore be easily imagined, and afforded opportunities for inquiry as well as amuse

ment.

The bridge was particularly thronged during the first day of our visit, for it was a holiday, both with the Chinese and Mahomedans of Hindoostan.

The trades, as is usual in the East, are carried on in the streets, and carpenters, blacksmiths, tinners, butchers, bakers, tailors, barbers, crockery and opium sellers, and coffin-makers, are to be met in succession. Money-changers are to be found here and there, and large well-supplied shops are not wanting, although their narrow and contracted fronts give no reason to anticipate their existence. That of Whampoa, our comprador, was one of the largest, and it gave a better idea of Noah's ark than of any thing else, presenting a mixture of living animals, with every thing that is required for the artificial wants of the shipping. In front were all the varieties of ship stores that China and Europe could furnish; and in the rear were poultry, pigs, sheep, and pigeons, in pens and cages, with various parrots, cockatoos, and monkeys, while quantities of geese and ducks were accommodated beneath with pools of water. Between the live-stock and the groceries were large quantities of vegetables and fruit, besides lots of bread, flour, and dough ready for the oven. The noise occasioned by the cackling, bellowing, crowing, and bleating, with the accumulation of filth, surprised as well as disgusted; for although it was reached at every tide by the water, yet there was ample necessity for the use of brooms and shovels. The Chinese, though cleanly in their persons, are far from being so in their general habits, if we may judge from those that I have met in the places we have visited.

On landing, that which impresses a stranger most strongly, is the great variety both of costume and of race. Almost every person that is encountered appears different from his predecessor, so that it is some time before it can be decided which nation predominates; but on reaching the old town, this is no longer doubtful, for the Chinese are soon found to be the most numerous.

The variety of religious sects also soon become evident. All have their places of worship, and enjoy the free exercise of their religion, so that in passing around, the mosque of the Mahomedan, the temple of the Chinese, and the churches of various Christian sects, are met with in their turn.

The number of spoken languages is such as to recall the idea of Babel, and to excite a desire to learn the cause of such a collection of nations. This is partly to be found in the favourable commercial site of Singapore, on the great highway between the eastern and western nations, and in the protection afforded to all by its being under a European power, but chiefly in the fact of its being a free port, in every sense of the word. All are allowed to visit it without any question being asked; pirates of any nation may refit here, and no doubt frequently do, without any molestation, so long as they keep the peace.

I was much struck with the apparent absence of either police or military force; but after some inquiry, I was satisfied, by the order and general quiet of the multitude, that there must be a controlling power within reach, and found the policemen under the semblance of Persians, easily distinguishable by their neat and cleanly appearance. They are generally better dressed than the body of the

inhabitants, and are to be known by their red and black sashes, and turbaned heads. Without the precincts of the town, a regiment of Sepoys, six hundred strong, and officered by Europeans, is stationed. These are to be seen habited like English soldiers, in close-bodied red coats, than which a more inappropriate dress in such a climate as this can scarcely be imagined.

The island of Singapore is composed of red clay, sandstone, and in some places granite. The locality of the town appears to have been a salt-marsh, with a narrow strip of rocks and sand near the beach. In consequence of its rapid increase, they are beginning now to fill up the low ground with the surplus earth taken from the surrounding hills.

The highest point of Singapore is called Buhit Tima, and does not exceed, it is said, five hundred feet in elevation. Although this height is but seven miles distant from the town, I was told it has never yet been visited by a European and seldom by natives, on account of the obstructed nature of the intervening country; there are a few small fishing or piratical establishments (the two names are synonymous here, for when the people are not engaged in the one, they are in the other), on the north and west end of the island. The length of the island is twenty-seven miles, and its greatest breadth is fifteen. It is divided from the peninsula by the old strait of Singapore, so long followed by navigators, for reasons it is now difficult to surmise, when the short, wide, and safe channel was open to them, which is now altogether used.

The botany of Singapore is far from being thoroughly known, notwithstanding so many scientific expeditions have visited it; nor is it likely to become so very soon, infested as the woods are with tigers. It is remarkable that before the island was inhabited, tigers did not exist in it, although there were great numbers of them in the peninsula opposite; and it is said that they have only made their appearance here within the last six or seven years. Indeed, one of the reasons assigned for its selection, was the absence of this ferocious animal, and of the wild elephant. It is to be presumed, therefore, that the tigers come in search of food, by swimming over the narrow straits. Some fifty persons have been killed by them within the last two years, within two miles of the centre of the town, and two hundred in all are reported as having become victims to these beasts. Criminals and thieves were formerly in the habit of escaping to the woods or jungle, but of late years this has not been attempted by them.

The government, in consequence of the attacks of tigers becoming so frequent, and of the jungle being so much infested by them, offered a premium of one hundred dollars for every tiger's head that should be brought in. This induced large parties to hunt them; but since the government have reduced the reward to fifty dollars, this daring business has not been followed; not, however, from any scarcity of the animals, for they now frequently seize men working in the immediate vicinity, but because the sum is too small to be an equivalent for the risk and trouble.

The soil of the island is a stiff yellow loam, in which the nutmeg, coffee, black pepper, chocolate, and gamboge (garcinia), grow to a great extent. The three first appear to be particularly well

Ride outside the town. Mode of conveyance.

adapted to the climate and soil. The cultivation of sugar is attended with success. Captain Scott is planting the durian, which, independently of its fruit, yields a timber highly valued for ship-building. This gentleman has left numerous forest trees standing on his plantation, many of which are of large dimensions, being full one hundred feet in height. These consisted chiefly of species of quercus, myrtaceæ, melastomaceæ, and rubiaceæ. The undergrowth is almost impenetrable, on account of the vast number of creeping plants which intertwine and clasp around the trees. Two species of nepenthe (pitcher-plants) were found in the swamp, which were preserved and brought to the United States.

Fruit seemed to be very abundant, and it is said, that there are one hundred and twenty kinds that can be served as a dessert: among these are pine-apples, mangosteens, melons, bananas, oranges, &c. The pine-apples are remarkably fine, and not in the least acid; in proof of which, they do not turn the knife black in cutting them, and to eat them is considered wholesome at all hours. The season for this fruit was just coming in at the time of our arrival, and large boat-loads were seen lying at the quay. They are usually planted along the roadside, and though, when small, rather stiff-looking, yet when full-grown and in bearing, they are a pretty object. Of all the plants we saw, the nutmeg requires and receives the greatest care. The trees are planted in orchards, and while young have a sort of arbour erected over them, to protect them from the vertical rays of the sun.

The gambeer (nauclea) also claims much of the attention of the cultivator: it is a low-sized tree, or bush, of no beauty. Its bark is used for tanning, and it is said to be the most powerful astringent known for this purpose. It is to be seen in the shops in the form of a powder, of a reddish brown colour. We did not learn how this was prepared, or how it was used: it appears, however, to be in great demand. It is occasionally used by the Chinese, with their betel-nut, of which there is a great consumption here, although it is not sold in the streets, as at Manilla; but quantities of the nuts are seen for sale in the market. From the leaves also a powerful astringent is obtained by boiling.

The gamboge tree is also cultivated here, but more extensively on the shores of the straits than at Singapore, and is a very considerable article of trade.

The ride outside of the town to the hills is pleasant, passing through plantations loaded with fruit, and the air at an early hour of the morning is filled with a spicy fragrance. The vivid green of the woods and grass is also remarkable, and continues throughout the whole year, for scarcely a day passes but a refreshing shower falls. The roads are thus kept free from dust, and at all times in good order. The usual mode of conveyance is in a palanquin, which is capable of containing two persons. The cooley, or Hindoo who attends his horse, usually runs by the side of the palanquin, and seldom tires. The charge for one of these conveyances is a dollar, whether for a whole or a part of a day, and a douceur is paid to the cooley according to the time he has been employed. The palanquin is a very convenient vehicle, and its use