The only collection of houses is Jamestown; and although situated in a narrow gorge, it is the best locality on the island for a town. The space occupied by it has been as much improved as was possible, and the place has rather a cheerful appearance; more, however, from the diversified character of its inhabitants, than from the neatness and architecture of its buildings. The variety of costume is greater than one would expect, ranging from the well-dressed English soldier to the Oriental costumes of India and China. There are many quadroons, who are said to be descendants of the natives of Madagascar, brought here originally by the Dutch. They were pointed out to me as remarkable for their beauty, and many of them have certainly, it must be acknowledged, well-developed and even handsome forms; which, from appearances, they are fond of exhibiting, and to which their style of dress is well adapted.

Extortion is here carried to its height, and although the stay of the stranger is only for a few hours, the time is sufficient to make him aware that he has submitted to some exorbitant demand, if his curiosity have led him to visit Longwood and the tomb of Napoleon.

Our consul, Mr. Carrol, was kind enough to make arrangements for our visiting Longwood and the tomb, and it was decided that we should set out at an early hour the next morning.

Captain Hudson, Mr. Waldron, and myself, accordingly landed at the jetty early the next day, and found waiting for us a small wagon with two stout horses, in which we seated ourselves, and were driven to the American consulate. We were there joined by Mr. Carrol, and taking the eastern road, commenced ascending the narrow track leading up the side of the cliff. The road seemed to have been carried over some places with great difficulty; heavy walls were built in some places to form the road, while in others the path was blasted out of the rock. As we ascended, we had a bird'seye view of the town and the gorge in which it lies. The houses and their inhabitants were alike reduced in size, and we experienced the accuracy of the poetical assertion, "that distance lends enchantment to the view," for from our elevated position all appeared neat and clean. The hospitals for the troops are situated in the upper end of the valley, in a space too contracted for comfort. Their appearance is strongly in contrast with that of those usually attached to British garrisons, and led to some inquiries on my part as to the necessity for their confined position. The island being usually healthy, and infectious diseases but seldom prevailing, quarantine is performed at Lemon Valley, or rather it was used for that purpose during our visit; a number of recaptured slaves, among whom the small-pox had made its appearance, being detained there.

The first object of interest that presents itself as connected with the residence of Napoleon, is the cottage at the Briars, to which he was removed soon after his arrival. It is situated in a small dell at the head of the gully, and has attached to it some ten acres of ground, laid out in walks and flower-beds. There are many similar spots on the island, which are known by the name of "bosoms;" none of them, however, so striking, nor having such an air of quiet and comfort as that just mentioned. Its beauties are more strongly impressed

The tomb of Napoleon. Longwood.

by the marked contrast they afford to the arid and barren rocks of the gully side, up which we had been making our ascent under a burning sun. The only vegetation on the surrounding hills was a few cacti and wild vines, and some firs that were imported from Scotland about fifty years ago. The high ground of the island was of equal altitude, there being but few points above the general level. On reaching it, we felt a sensible change of temperature, the air becoming raw and disagreeable. Turning to the eastward, we proceeded three miles along the road, and then turned into the path which leads to the quiet dell in which the tomb is situated. The road soon became so steep that we were obliged to alight from the carriage, and descend on foot to the cottage occupied by the widow Talbot, who furnishes refreshments to visiters, and who takes care to let it be known that it is customary to pay for them, whether you partake or not. continued whinings about her poverty, the injustice of the British government, and the unfulfilled promises of the Prince de Joinville, are singularly out of place, and at variance with the thoughts with which one's mind is occupied when visiting such a spot. In the rear of the cottage, at the end of the dell, and about thirty yards distant, is the tomb.

Her

On the banks of the dell, a few yews, cedars, and weeping-willows, are growing; while in its centre stands the old and now leafless willow, which seems, like the emperor, to have been killed by the treatment it has received. A spring of pure and delicious water bubbles from the rock near by; to it we retreated to avoid the annoyance occasioned by the monotonous whinings of an old sergeant. He talked continually of the length, breadth, and depth of the vault, told us of how many slabs it was formed, how they were cemented together, how opened, and many other particulars of so little importance, that I shall not trouble my readers by repeating them. We at last put an end to the garrulity by paying him the expected shilling, and walking off out of hearing. This is an annoyance to which all who have visited the tomb have been subject, and which does away with half the satisfaction of the pilgrimage. We drank some water from the spring, received a bouquet of the Napoleon geranium from the little girls, and returned to the cottage, which we found crowded with Dutch officers, who were devouring the widow's eatables as if determined to have the worth of their money; from their great appetites she told us she anticipated but little profit. Scarcely had they finished eating, when their pipes were put in requisition, and a cloud of smoke not only filled the apartment, but issued in all directions from its doors and windows. I have seldom seen so little regard paid to the comfort of others, or so little respect shown to the resting-place of the mighty dead, as by these officers.

After satisfying the claims of the widow, and disposing of certain relics obtained through her as marks of special favour, we departed for Longwood, about two miles further on. The road is good and nearly level, running along the top of a barren ridge; on our way we passed the "Tap-room,” immediately opposite to which was the dwelling of the Count Bertrand. The horizon is visible from the road, both to the north and east; and on either side the eye wanders beneath into the deep and inaccessible gullies, from which their gloomy and

uninviting character have obtained the appropriate name of the Devil's Gorge, &c.

The day on which we paid this visit was called by the inhabitants a fine one, but we thought the air damp and chilly, and were glad to draw our cloaks closely around us. We soon reached the gate, and were stopped until we paid the usual fee of two shillings sterling for each person. The house is at present leased by the government to a Captain Mason, a retired army officer, for one hundred and fifty pounds per annum, and by his order the entrance fee is demanded before the gate is opened. Mr. Carrol pointed out to us the sites of the camps of observation, and other spots in the neighbourhood, interesting from associations connected with the residence of Napoleon. As we drove towards the house, every thing wore a neglected look, to all appearance intentional.

Longwood is now but little better than a barn; the glass of the windows is broken, and the outward walls much disfigured. The door at which visiters are admitted is covered with a small latticed veranda, and leads into what is called the billiard-room, although it seems much too small ever to have been used for that purpose; its walls are covered with scribbling, and its general appearance is dirty and neglected. The next apartment is about fourteen by seventeen feet, said to have been used as a dining-room, and in which Napoleon died; it is now occupied by a patent thrashing and winnowing machine, and was strewed with chaff and straw. The adjoining room had been used as a library; its present state was disgusting, and it seemed as if appropriated to the hatching of chickens. The bath, bed, and dressingrooms, which he occupied at the commencement of his illness, are now in part used as a stable. The place in which his body lay in state, contains eight stalls, five of which were occupied by horses and cattle.

If the design had been to desecrate as much as possible the habitation that had been occupied by the fallen emperor, it could not have been more effectually accomplished; but whatever may be the motive, whether intentional or otherwise, it certainly redounds little to the credit of the British nation. The miserable condition of Longwood when we visited it was a subject of general animadversion. The money derived from the lease of the property is paid into the queen's treasury, no part of this small sum being retained to keep the building in repair; nor are there any conditions in the lease that compel the lessee to do it. It is with regret I am compelled to state that the lessee is a military man, and an officer in the British army.

Longwood is bleak and exposed; the damp trade-winds sweep past it continually, and but few days in the year are without either mist or rain. The valley of Jamestown is known to be dry and healthy; there are some other spots also on the island that enjoy a climate as fine as any on the globe. One of these might have been chosen as a residence, which would have proved much more congenial to the taste, and better suited to the constitution of the emperor. Plantation House, for instance, the country seat of the governor, enjoys, by all accounts, a delightful climate.

The grounds of Longwood cannot be called pretty, but from the constant moisture the herb

age is greener than in other parts of the island. There are no trees, but the shrubbery is dense around the gardens. The new house at Longwood is built of yellow sandstone, one story in height, and is situated some hundred yards on the western declivity, and is in some measure sheltered from the easterly winds. It contains a handsome suite of rooms, and, when compared with the old house, seems quite a palace. At the time of our visit it was occupied by Lieutenant Smith, of the artillery, and his assistants, who have charge of the magnetic observatory. The house has never been finished: the death of the emperor of course rendering its completion unnecessary. It is said that during his life he never visited it, nor would he allow any one to consult him about its plan, declaring that he would not remove to it.

Napoleon seems to have engrafted himself on the memory of the islanders; and all the events and little incidents occurring to him during his residence, are remembered and cherished by them with pleasure. His chief complaint regarded the system of espionage under which he was placed, from the hour in which he gave himself up to the English to that of his death. It has been asserted, and up to this time without contradiction, that Sir George Cockburn, who commanded the Bellerophon, in which vessel Bonaparte was transported to St. Helena, was ordered to make minutes of every conversation that took place during the voyage. These memoranda have been already published in Boston, and their authenticity, although denied, seems to be unquestionable; for the publication emanated from the private secretary of Sir George; who, while making out one fair copy of the minutes, made another for himself. Although the ministry may have thought themselves justified in taking this course at the time, yet it seems, at this time, scarcely reconcilable with a high sense of honour; and notwithstanding Sir George may have considered it necessary to obey implicitly his orders, still the fact that he lent himself to such a service must injure his reputation.

In justice to Sir Hudson Lowe, it must be stated, according to what I heard at the island, that his treatment of his royal captive was in strict conformity to his instructions, and that, as far as his orders were concerned, he was allowed no discretion. Many of the inhabitants know that he tried in several ways to ameliorate the condition of his prisoner, but he was not permitted to

do so.

I trust that what I have said upon this subject will not be construed as disrespectful to a highminded and friendly government, or be casting any odium on the many honourable and courteous British officers it has been my good fortune to meet in many parts of the globe, and who have extended to me and my officers the most grateful civilities; but I could not forbear the expression of my sentiments when I contemplate the prison-house of Napoleon, and the ignoble condition and uses to which it is put.

The officer in charge of the magnetic observatory complained that it was badly placed, and that both his instruments and observations suffered from the constant change of temperature, and the dampness of the situation. He politely showed us the instruments, which were in a detached building; after which we returned to Longwood, and

soon after left it, glad to escape from the mist and driving wind that enveloped it.

From Longwood we took the road to Plantation House, which leads across the island, making numerous turns as it ascends and descends the gullies. Many pretty dells were occupied by neat cottages, in whose gardens were cultivated potatoes and other vegetables. Of the former, two crops are obtained within the year, and a ready sale is found for them to the vessels that visit the island. On our arrival at the porter's lodge of Plantation House, we were informed that the governor, Colonel Trelawny, had gone to Jamestown, and that the ladies of the family were not visible. We therefore, so far as time permitted, examined the grounds, which are laid out with taste, and contained a good collection of foreign trees. Some of these were very flourishing, and it was curious to see many trees of European species growing side by side with those of Australia.

Our botanists were of opinion that the tradition which prevails, of the island, at the time of its discovery, having been covered with wood, is erroneous; and that the story of the destruction of this forest by goats, is equally so. The barrenness of this island is well illustrated by the difficulty with which young trees are preserved from the ravages of sheep or goats. Pasture is so scarce, that but few cattle are kept, and these are chiefly importations from the Cape of Good Hope. Their scarcity may be judged of from the price of beef, which sells for twenty-five cents a pound; and it may be as well to state, that to strangers the prices of all other eatables are equally exorbitant.

From the road near Plantation House, we had a good view of the gully in which Jamestown is situated, together with the ravines extending into it from the interior of the island. Descending, we passed over a portion of the island which is little better than a barren rock. Yet in some places comfortable-looking houses were seen, and here and there a beer-house, or tap-room, quite in the English style, and, from all accounts, as great nuisances as low taverns are in any country. We finally reached the fortification on Ladder Hill, and made the descent of the zigzag road on the side of the cliff, passing a place called Colonel Pearce's Revenge, where the road is completely overhung by large masses of rock, which seem ready to fall. The rapid pace of the horses, the frequent sharp turns, and the overhanging cliff, excite some alarm in those not accustomed to them; and I must confess that I was quite satisfied when we passed the last turn, and were safely landed at the consulate.

The population of the island is about four thousand. It consists of whites, who, if the garrison be deducted from their numbers, form the smallest portion of the inhabitants; of negroes and their descendants of the mixed blood, and some few Chinese. The negroes were brought by the East India Company from Madagascar, and, with their descendants, now form the largest portion of the population. The number of vessels that touch annually at the island is now about eight hundred.

We embarked in the afternoon, regretting that our time was so limited, and that no opportunity was afforded us to return the kind attentions bestowed upon us by the consul and his family.

Zodiacal light.-Passage to the United States.

As we were getting under way, it became evident that many of the seamen had obtained supplies of grog from the shore, in spite of all the precautionary measures that had been taken. One, in consequence, fell from the main-top, but, fortunately for him, while falling, struck a portion of the rigging, and was thus canted into the sea, from which he was picked up uninjured. When the anchor was up we bore away to the northward, under all sail, with a favourable breeze.

As we passed through the tropics, many opportunities were afforded us for viewing the zodiacal light, both in the morning and the evening. Its general appearance was that of a well-defined cone, whose height, as marked by the stars, remained nearly constant at 40° elevation, and at the base 15°. Its first appearance after sunset was like a broad semicircular band of light, the brightness of which increased as the evening closed in, when its shape became that of a well-defined cone. The light was sometimes equally diffused, and at others appeared as if radiating through the cone. Its intensity varied from a light equal to that given by a bright aurora to that of a comet, the centre of the cone being often the least brilliant; and during a partially cloudy evening it was sometimes so bright as to obscure stars of the second magnitude. Its appearance in the morning was better defined than in the evening, and the light was more of a blue than a yellow tint; the altitude of the cone was greater, and its base of less extent. As we changed our latitude, the position of the apex of the cone remained stationary, but its inclination varied. For further information on these phenomena, I must refer the reader to the volume on Physics.

On the 9th of May, we crossed the magnetic equator in latitude 9° 20' S., and in longitude 16° 40' W.

The

On the 2nd of June, we had reached latitude 29° N., and longitude 68° W.; and the wind, which had been gradually hauling from the northward and eastward round to the south-south-west, began to fail us. We had light and variable breezes from this day until the 8th, when we reached the neighbourhood of the Gulf Stream, and experienced the weather that is peculiar to it. lightning was very vivid, and the rain fell in torrents; its temperature was 63°. In the latter part of the day it blew a strong gale from the eastward. I regretted this much, as it was my intention to make full experiments on the deep temperature and the velocity of the current in the stream; but the roughness of the sea and violence of the wind prevented it. The close proximity to our port also, and the increasing impatience of all on board to reach their homes, forbade all unnecessary delay. The experiments we did make gave a difference of three degrees of temperature, between the surface and one hundred fathoms depth. The highest temperature of the surface experienced while crossing the stream was 79°; when we entered, it was 77°. We were seven hours in crossing it, and found, as in our first passage, that the inner edge was the warmest. During the next half hour after leaving the Gulf Stream, the surface temperature fell twelve degrees, and so continued until we got on soundings, when it rose again some three or four degrees. The morning of the 9th was foggy, which rather tried our patience, but by firing guns we attracted the attention of the

pilot-boats, and on the fog clearing away a little, discovered one close to us. A pilot now boarded and took charge of the ship, and at noon on the 10th of June, 1842, anchored us off Sandy Hook, where a steamer came alongside soon afterwards, and took us in tow. After stopping half an hour at the quarantine ground, to receive the visit of the health officer, we held our course towards the city of New York.

Before I left the Vincennes off the Battery, the crew were called to muster, when I expressed to them my thanks for the manner in which they had conducted themselves during the cruise, and stated the confident belief entertained by me, that they would receive from the government such rewards as the successful performance of the cruise, and their long and perilous services, entitled them to. A national salute was then fired, and my pennant hauled down, the command of the ship being given to Captain Hudson, who proceeded with her to the navy-yard. As soon as she was safely moored, all the men who could be spared were allowed to go on shore, with their bags and hammocks. A happier set of fellows than they were is not often to be met with; being relieved from their long confine

ment on shipboard, and the severe discipline of a man-of-war.

Those who have perused this full narrative of the events of the expedition, I confidently believe, will absolve me from all the charges so industriously circulated against me, relative to the manner in which I had conducted the expedition; at the same time they will see what meed of honour or reward is justly due to the officers and crews who faithfully served out the cruise. All of the former, and many of the latter, are still to be found on the rolls of the navy, and to them, I trust that the applause of a grateful country has been only delayed, not wholly lost.

On our arrival home, the health of the prisoner Vendovi had so far declined, that it was necessary to place him in the Naval Hospital at New York. Every attention was paid him there, but very soon afterward he expired.

The Porpoise and Oregon had, in the mean time, proceeded to Rio Janeiro, where they executed their instructions, and having obtained the necessary supplies, sailed for the United States. After leaving the equator, their route differed but little from that pursued by the Vincennes.

Navy Department, August 11th, 1838.

SIR, The Congress of the United States, having in view the important interests of our commerce embarked in the whale fisheries, and other adventures in the great Southern Ocean, by an act of the 18th of May, 1836, authorized an Expedition to be fitted out for the purpose of exploring and surveying that sea, as well to determine the existence of all doubtful islands and shoals, as to discover and accurately fix the position of those which lie in or near the track of our vessels in that quarter, and may have escaped the observation of scientific navigators. Liberal appropriations have been made for the attainment of these objects, and the President, reposing great confidence in your courage, capacity, and zeal, has appointed you to the command of the Expedition, requiring you to proceed to the performance of the duties of that station with the vessels placed under your orders, consisting of the sloops of war Vincennes and Peacock, the ship Relief, the brig Porpoise,' and tenders Sea-Gull and Flying-Fish.

As soon as these vessels are in every respect ready, you will accordingly take your departure from Norfolk, and shape your course to Rio Janeiro, crossing the line between longitude 18° and 22° W., and keeping within those meridians to about latitude 10° S., with a view to determine the existence of certain vigias or shoals laid down in the charts as doubtful, and whose position, should they be found to exist, it is deemed useful to the interests of our commerce to ascertain.

At Rio Janeiro you will replenish your supplies, taking special care to furnish yourself with a sufficiency of all those articles which are considered the best preventives and remedies for the scurvy. You will determine the longitude of that place, as well as of Cape Frio; after which, you will either detach a vessel, or proceed with your whole squadron, to make a particular examination of Rio Negro, which falls into the South Atlantic about latitude 41° S., with a view to ascertain its resources and facilities for trade.

Having completed this survey, you will proceed to a safe port or ports in Terra del Fuego, where the members of the scientific corps may have favourable opportunities of prosecuting their researches. Leaving the larger vessels securely moored, and the officers and crews occupied in their respective duties, you will proceed with the brig Porpoise, and the tenders, to explore the southern

Antarctic, to the southward of Powell's Group, and between it and Sandwich Land, following the track of Weddell as closely as practicable, and endeavouring to reach a high southern latitude; taking care, however, not to be obliged to pass the winter there, and to rejoin the other vessels between the middle of February and beginning of March. The attention of the officers left at Terra del Fuego, will, in the mean time, be specially directed to making such accurate and particular examinations and surveys of the bays, ports, inlets, and sounds, in that region, as may verify or extend those of Captain King, and be serviceable in future to vessels engaged in whale-fisheries, in their outward and homeward-bound passages.

You will then, on rejoining the vessels at Terra del Fuego, with all your squadron, stretch towards the southward and westward as far as the Ne Plus Ultra of Cook, or longitude 105° W., and return northward to Valparaiso, where a store ship will meet you in the month of March, 1839. Proceeding once more from that port, you will direct your course to the Navigator's Group, keeping to the southward of the place of departure, in order to verify, if possible, the existence of certain islands and shoals, laid down in the charts as doubtful, and if they exist, to determine their precise position, as well as that of all others which may be discovered in this unfrequented track. When you arrive in those latitudes where discoveries may be reasonably anticipated, you will so dispose your vessels as that they shall sweep the broadest expanse of the ocean that may be practicable, without danger of parting company, lying-to at night in order to avoid the chance of passing any small island or shoal without detection.

It is presumed you will reach the Navigator's Group some time in June, 1839. You will survey this group and its harbours, with all due care and attention. If time will permit, it will be well to visit the Society Islands, and examine Eimeo, which, it is stated, possesses a convenient harbour.

From the Navigator's Group, you will proceed to the Feejee Islands, which you will examine with particular attention, with a view to the selection of a safe harbour, easy of access, and in every respect adapted to the reception of vessels of the United States engaged in the whale-fishery, and the general commerce of these seas; it being the intention of the government to keep one of the squadron of the Pacific cruising near these islands in future.