Peru. Chili imports flour, cottons, furniture, tobacco, &c., from the United States, manufactured articles of all descriptions from Great Britain, silks, wines, perfumery, &c., from France, spices, tea, sugar, coffee, &c., from other countries. At present the annual value of the trade with Great Britain is about 5,000,000 dollars, and of that with the United States, 2,500,000 dollars, exclusive of the supplies to the whalers and other ships. Beside their dealings with Europe, the Chilians have also a considerable trade with Peru, to which, as already mentioned, they export wheat, flour, &c.; they have also, notwithstanding the formidable obstacles opposed by the Andes, a considerable trade with Buenos Ayres.

Fishing is neglected by the Chilians, though many fine species are found in their seas. The shell-fish are particularly delicate.

The population of Chili, is more involved in doubt than that of any State of South America, but is believed from authentic accounts not to fall short of 1,500,000.

The social state of Chili differs scarcely by a shade from that of the rest of Spanish America. There is the same native courteousness, politeness, kindness of heart, ignorance, extravagant love of diversion, abject superstition, and propensity to quarrelling. This last passion, which among the lower orders is fed chiefly by a resort to pulperías, is alleged to be more prominent than among other Americans, and oftener productive of bloodshed. The ladies often can neither write nor read; but travellers join in praising their natural talents, and the unstudied grace of their manners. And some conceive the general deportment of those in the higher ranks to be almost unexceptionable.

The Catholic religion has hitherto reigned in Chili with the same supremacy as in the other states; but under the new system, the convents have been very sensibly thinned, no one being allowed to take the vows under the age of twentyfive; and many of the religious shows and processions have been suppressed; a change not altogether agreeable to the body of the people, whom it has deprived of one of their favourite amusements. The Roman Catholic religion continues the exclusive one, though numerous heretics are allowed to live in the country without molestation. The Protestants have even a consecrated burial-place, though not the public exercise of their worship.

Knowledge in Chili is beginning to disperse the general ignorance which prevailed. It is believed that before the revolution, there was not a printing-press in the country. That since established at Santiago has been chiefly employed upon gazettes and political pamphlets. The government once proclaimed the freedom of the press; but as soon as an unfortunate writer, taking them at their word, began to criticise their measures, he was instantly seized and deported to the Isle of Juan Fernandez. The people, however, soon regained the freedom of the press, which they now enjoy in its full extent. The government do not seem to have shown the same zeal as elsewhere for the promotion of knowledge, though they have established Lancasterian schools in the principal towns; that of Santiago containing 400 boys. The only fine art cultivated with any ardour by the Chilians is music, their application to which is truly indefatigable: the girls being set down to it almost from infancy, and having constant practice at their evening parties. The importation of piano-fortes is said to be truly immense. They do not play with consummate science, but with considerable feeling and taste.

The habitations of the lower ranks in Chili are of the most rude and primitive construction: the walls merely of stakes crossing each other, and fastened with thongs, or hemp twine; the roofs, which must resist the rain, composed of branches plastered with mud and covered with palm leaves.

The negro population of Chili has never been numerous, and the slaves have always been employed for domestic purposes, and treated with much kindness, the laws of the country being very favourable to them. In 1811, a law was enacted, declaring free after that period all children of slaves born in Chili; and in 1825, the number of slaves was so far diminished, that it was thought expedient to abolish slavery altogether.

Chili corresponds to the old Spanish captain generalship of the same name. In 1824, it was divided into eight provinces, which are subdivided into districts.

Santiago seems to derive its pre-eminence from its fertile and agreeable territory, particularly in the plain of Maypó, and that which surrounds the capital; from its mines of gold and silver, a more brilliant, though really not so valuable an object as the copper mines of Coquimbo; and from the residence of the go

vernment.

Santiago, the capital, is situated in a richly wooded plain, at an elevation of 2600 feet above the sea, which renders the climate agreeable and salubrious. Its aspect is irregular and picturesque. The dark tints of the fig and olive, with the lighter hues of the mimosa, mingled with steeples and houses, produce a novel and imposing effect. The houses having in general only one floor, and being surrounded by large gardens, the town appears completely overshadowed with foliage. Each house, in general, stands by itself, and, being strongly barricaded towards the street, forms a little fortress. They are one or two stories high, and built of adobes or unburnt brick. The streets, however, are regularly laid out, paved, and furnished with footpaths; the cathedral, several of the churches, and the director's palace, may be reckoned handsome, though they do not exhibit any thing very splendid in architecture. The Alameda, a mile in length, and planted with a double row of trees, is one of the finest promenades in South America. The river Maypocho runs through the city; but being, like most in this country, dry at one season and swoln to an overwhelming torrent at another, it has been necessary to erect not only a bridge, but a wall to confine the violence of the stream. The vicinity of Santiago presents the most romantic and sublime prospects: on one side over an expanse of plain bounded by the distant ocean, on the other over successive mountain ranges crowned by the awful snowy pinnacles of the Andes. Valparaiso, the port of Santiago, and the main seat of Chilian commerce, is situated on a long narrow strip of land bordering a semicircular bay, over which impend on all sides steep cliffs nearly 2000 feet high, and sparingly covered with shrubs and stunted grass. One street, about three miles long, runs along the sea, and contains the houses of the most opulent citizens; it is prolonged by the Almendral, or Almond Grove, a sort of detached village, which forms the most agreeable residence. The lower ranks are huddled into the quebradas, or ravines, among the hills behind. None of the buildings are handsome; even the governor's house is scarcely tolerable; but the commercial progress of the town is marked by the many new and handsome warehouses erected. Originally a mere village, it acquired some importance by becoming the channel for conducting the intercourse with Lima, to which all the trade of Chili was then confined. All the commerce of the world being now thrown open to it, and numerous settlers attracted from Europe, it has acquired a population of 14,000 or 15,000, and assumed almost the appearance of an English town. During the summer, which lasts from November to March, the bay affords a safe and pleasant anchorage; but in winter, especially in June and July, precautions are required against the north wind, which blows often with peculiar violence.

Quillota is a small but agreeable town, a little in the interior, in the province of Aconcagua, with 8000 inhabitants; and higher up are the towns of San Felipe and Santa Rosa, each having about 5000 inhabitants, and containing an industrious and thriving agricultural population.

Coquimbo is the most northern province of Chili; but, instead of assuming a gayer aspect as it approaches the brilliant regions of the tropic, it becomes more and more sterile. At the town of Coquimbo, or La Serena, even the brushwood which covered the hills round Valparaiso disappears, and its place is only supplied

by the prickly pear bush, and a scanty sprinkling of wiry grass; while at Huasco, farther north, there is no longer a trace of vegetation. It is only on the banks of the streams that the eye is gratified with verdure, cultivation, and pasturage. Its importance arises solely from its mines, which include gold, silver, and copper, of which the latter is the most productive. The commerce connected with the mines gives some importance to the port of Coquimbo; though the inhabitants, unaccustomed to any varied traffic, retain much native simplicity, kindness, and hospitality.

Copiapo is in the heart of the mining district, of which it may be considered the capital. This place is subject to the dreadful calamity of being once in about every twenty-three years completely destroyed by earthquake. That of 1819 shook it entirely to pieces; the wrecks of its houses and churches lying scattered in every direction. The walls, though three or four feet thick, of large sun-dried bricks, seem to have toppled down, some inwards, some outwards, like so many castles of cards. The people had all crowded to the great church of La Mercéd, which they were judiciously advised to leave, and had scarcely quitted it when it fell to the ground, and would have buried the whole population had they remained. The Copiapians, in 1821, rebuilt their fallen city. Copiapo is bounded on the north by the desert of Atacama, which separates Chili from Bolivia, and is considered as belonging to the latter.

Concepcion, a more southern province of Chili, is the most highly endowed with the real bounties of nature. All the grain and fruits of the finest temperate climate are reared in such abundance as to make this the granary and garden of South America. Wheat of excellent quality is the staple, and the southern markets are chiefly supplied from Concepcion; to which may be added barley, maize, pulse, and all kind of vegetables. It yields also a sweet wine, the best in the New World, which is reckoned equal to Frontignac, and for which the demand at Lima is almost unlimited. The cattle farms are also numerous and valuable, yielding a large export of jerked beef. The town of Concepcion, with four conventual churches, a nunnery, a cathedral in progress, and many handsome houses inhabited by some of the old Spanish nobles, might almost have disputed with Santiago the rank of capital of Chili. The houses, like those of Santiago, were mostly of one story, built of mud or sun-dried brick, and forming regular streets at right angles to each other. The people were peculiarly kind and hospitable, and their gay and festive habits were accompanied with comparatively few irregularities. But it suffered with peculiar severity from the late contest; alternately occupied by the Spaniards and the patriots, it was rudely treated by both, but especially the former. After having in some measure recovered from the calamities of war, the town was entirely destroyed by an earthquake in 1835. Talcahuano, the port of Concepcion, is a small town of about 500 inhabitants, on a large bay, with a good and secure anchorage. Its defences have the reputation of being very strong; but during the late war they were neglected; wherefore, being of mud, and incapable of resisting the heavy rains of the country, they are nearly ruined.

Valdivia comprises a territory of about 130 by about 120 miles in extent, watered by three rivers, and containing several plains that are very productive in grain and cattle. There is scarcely any European culture; but the missionaries have, at different points, succeeded in forming the Indians into peaceable and tolerably industrious little communities. The town of Valdivia is situated about sixteen miles above its port, which is defended by strong batteries, and is the best and most capacious harbour of Chili; it will be of great value when the surrounding country becomes more populous and civilised. Osorno, built about forty miles distant, is the most southern town in the New Continent.

The territory of the Araucanos, or Arauco, is an extensive district, which interposes itself between the Spanish districts of Concepcion and Valdivia. It extends north and south for about three degrees of latitude, reaching inland to the mountains. This region, celebrated in Spanish story and song, is described as really one of the finest in South America. The Araucanos, having adopted the rude agriculture of the Spaniards, raise Indian corn in abundance; they grow most

admirable potatoes, which are, probably, indigenous; and have a good stock of horses and horned cattle. The whole country is divided into four districts, governed by hereditary rulers, called toquis, confederated together for their own benefit, and the injury of their neighbours. Particular districts are ruled by subordinate chiefs, also hereditary, called ulmenes. When war is declared, the toquis elect one of themselves, or even some other chief, who assumes the supreme command. They have appended the European musket to their own original arms of the bow, arrow, and club. When they set forth on an expedition, each individual merely carries a small bag of parched meal, trusting that ere long he will be comfortably quartered on the territory of his enemies. During the Spanish dominion every new governor of Chili generally endeavoured to distinguish himself by the conquest of Arauco; and having assembled an army, he usually beat them in the field; but he soon found himself obliged, by a continued series of harassing warfare, to sue for peace from a proud race, whom nothing would ever induce to make the first advances Though resisting all attempts at conquest, they have entered into a treaty with the republican government, and even agreed to a species of political union, though a long interval must elapse before this can be completely effected.

The island of Chiloe is the southernmost province of Chili: it is in length, from north to south, 120 miles, and in the widest part about 60 miles broad: the whole island is mountainous and covered with trees. The climate is rather damp and rainy, but notwithstanding healthy. The inhabitants are in appearance like northern Europeans, manly, athletic, robust, and fresh coloured. The productions are wheat, barley, potatoes, and most kinds of European vegetables and fruits. The island swarms with hogs: its hams are celebrated, and are exported in considerable quantities. The inhabitants are very cheerful, and appear to be the happiest race alive; their amusements are singing and dancing. Murder, robbery, or persons being in debt, are never heard of. The principal towns are St. Carlos, the capital, Chacao, Dalcahue, and Castro; all of them have good harbours, in which vessels of any burthen may anchor with perfect safety. The islands attached to Chiloe are 63 in number, of which 36 are inhabited: they are situated eastward, and between it and the coast of Patagonia, and are denominated the Archipelago of Chiloe.

The Islands of Juan Fernandez may be considered as an appendage of Chili. They form a group of two small islands, called Mas-a-Tierra, and Mas-a-Fuero. The principal island is so diversified by lofty hills, streams, and varied vegetation, that it has been described as one of the most enchanting spots on the globe. It was early noted as being the solitary residence of Alexander Selkirk, during several years; an event upon which Defoe founded his celebrated narrative of Robinson Crusoe. The island afterwards afforded to Anson the means of recruiting his shattered squadron, after the passage of Cape Horn. It has been used by the Chilians as a place for confining convicts, but was recently granted to a North American merchant, who proposes to make it a depôt for supplying trading and whaling vessels with provisions.

REPUBLIC OF BUENOS AYRES.

(LA PLATA, OR ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.)

BUENOS AYRES, or La Plata, is the name given to an extensive region of South America, and which, under Spanish dominion, formed one of the principal viceroyalties. It had then annexed to it Upper Peru, including the mines of Potosi; but this country has, by recent events, been severed from it, and forms now an independent republic under the name of Bolivia. The remaining territory consists chiefly of detached cities, with surrounding cultivated tracts, which form, as it were, oases in a vast expanse of uninhabited plain. Buenos Ayres, the principal city, and commanding the navigation of the river, has endeavoured to form the whole into a republic, of which she herself shall be the capital, or at least the

federal head; but there reigns through the different districts, a strong provincial spirit, which has hitherto rendered this union imperfect and precarious.

Buenos Ayres may, in a very general view, be considered as occupying nearly the whole breadth of America, south from the tropic of Capricorn, leaving only the narrow strip of Chili on the west, and on the east a section cut out of it by Brazil. On the north the Pilcomayo, while it runs from west to east, forms the natural boundary from Upper Peru; but after its great bend to the south, the line must be considered as continued eastward, cutting the Paraguay River, and onwards to the Paraná. On the east, the boundary of Brazil may be considered as fixed by the Paraná and the Uruguay, though the districts immediately west of these streams have not, since the revolution, been actually possessed by Buenos Ayres; and south of the Plata, the Atlantic is the clear boundary. On the south, the Rio Negro terminates the settlements in this quarter. On the west, the uniform boundary is Chili, separated by the lofty summits of the Andes. The contents of this very extensive territory are calculated at about 860,000 square miles.

The surface of this territory consists of a plain the most extensive and uniform, perhaps, on the face of the earth, bounded only by the eastern slope of the Andes. The Pampas, west from Buenos Ayres, form an uninteresting level of more than 1000 miles across. This plain is divided into three successive portions: the first covered with thick clover and flowering thistles, that rise sometimes to the height of ten or eleven feet; then 450 miles of long grass, without a weed; lastly, a forest of low evergreen trees and shrubs, standing so wide, that a horse can gallop through them. At the end of this ocean plain, the Andes shoot up abruptly their wall of unbroken rock, covered with eternal snow, which to the traveller from the east appears to present an impenetrable barrier. The banks of the Plata consist also of immense plains, though not quite so level, nor covered with such varied vegetation.

Of the rivers of this region, the chief is the Rio de La Plata, which enters the Ocean with a breadth of 150 miles, and is navigable for vessels of the greatest burthen to the city of Buenos Ayres, and was formerly so for ships of considerable size to Assumpcion, 1000 miles in the interior; but this is now impracticable, owing to accumulations of sand which have obstructed the course of the channel. The La Plata is properly a continuation of the river Paraguay, which, flowing south from the centre of the continent, after passing the marshy Lake of Parayes, receives from the centre and border of Bolivia, the Pilcomaya and Vermejo, both navigable. At Corrientes, 900 miles from the sea, the Paraguay is joined by the Paraná, which robs the former of its name; flowing onwards the united current receives from the west the Salado, and from the north the Uruguay, when the collected waters of this great stream, now 30 miles in width and completely fresh, are finally merged in the Rio de La Plata, and mingle with the Ocean after a course of about 2200 miles. Large rivers, the Saladillo, and the Colorado, run across the Pampas, and are supposed to reach the Atlantic. The latter rises in the Cordillera east of Coquimbo, and has a course of 1000 miles, during which it forms numerous lakes; but it has not yet attained any commercial importance; and another, the Rio Negro, forms the extreme southern boundary.

There are several lakes, as that of Ibera in the Entre Rios, fully 80 miles in length; some round Mendoza, formed by the streams descending from the Andes; and others farther in the interior; but none of these can be said to correspond in grandeur to the other features of this region.

The constitution of Buenos Ayres is that of a representative republic. The legislative power is exercised by two chambers, the representatives and the senators; the former consisting of forty-one deputies elected by the direct suffrages of the provinces, and renewed by half their number every two years; the senate is formed by two deputies for each province, making thirty in all, who are renewed by one-third at a time: they are elected by eleven members of each province. The executive power is exercised by a citizen holding the title of president, elected in the same manner as the senators, and holding his office for five years. He is re-eligible, and his powers are very extensive.