Obrázky stránek
PDF
ePub

into a complete garden. The territory, though only forty-three miles in length, and twelve in breadth, two-thirds of which consist of mountain and defile, reckons a population of 145,000, being 334 to the square mile; a density which has no parallel, even in the most fertile plains of the rest of Italy. On the death of the duchess of Parma, the duke of Lucca will succeed to that duchy, and Lucca will be annexed to Tuscany. The capital is Lucca, with 22,000 inhabitants.

DUCHY OF MODENA.

MODENA is a fine small domain, composed of a rich plain at the foot of the Apennines. It is held as a fief of Austria, and by a branch of that family, with the title of duke. The city of Modena is extremely handsome, though without any objects peculiarly striking. It has a population of 27,000 souls. It was enriched by the family of Este with splendid collections of books and paintings; but the latter have been now removed, by purchase, to adorn the Dresden gallery. The territory of Massa-Carrara, held by the archduchess Maria Beatrix, fell, on her death in 1832, to Modena. The population of the whole is 400,000: square miles, 2145.

STATES OF THE CHURCH, OR ECCLESIASTICAL STATES.

THE Ecclesiastical States have lost that paramount importance which they once possessed, and are the least flourishing and powerful of all the divisions of Italy. Nevertheless, as they contain Rome, with all its stupendous monuments, and were the central theatre of all the ancient grandeur of Italy, they still excite an interest superior to that of any other of these celebrated regions.

This territory occupies the centre of Italy. It is washed on the north-east by the Adriatic, and on the south-west by the Mediterranean. On the north it is bounded by the Lombardo-Venetian kingdom, on the south-east by the kingdom of Naples, and on the west by Modena and Tuscany. Its extreme length is 260 miles from north to south, and its breadth from 20 to 95 miles. It contains 17,572 square miles. The duchy of Benevento, and the principality of Ponte Corvo, are two small districts belonging to this territory, insulated in the kingdom of Naples. These States are intersected by the Apennines. The mountains are as barren as those of Tuscany and Genoa, but higher. The Campagna di Roma is a continuation of the Tuscan Maremma, and is noted for its unhealthy malaria. It exhibits an undulated surface bare of trees. The Pontine marshes are in the south. The ancient Cæsars and modern popes have in vain attempted to drain them.

The Tiber, though not the largest stream in Italy, is the first in classical celebrity. It rises in the Apennines, near the source of the Arno, and passes through the city of Rome to the Mediterranean: it is 150 miles in length, and has a full stream, but narrow: it is only 300 feet wide at Rome. There is no other river of importance within this territory. The northern boundary is washed by the Po. The Lake of Perugia, near the city of that name, is the ancient Thrasymenus, and is famous for a battle between Hannibal and the Romans. It is a beautiful sheet of water, 4 miles across, bordered with gently sloping hills everywhere covered with woods or cultivated fields, and rising at a distance into mountains. The lakes of Albano and Nemi are charmingly situated among hills. There are other small lakes.

The climate is mild, but the mountains are covered with snow from October to April. The Sirocco, or hot wind from Africa, is felt on the shore of the Mediterranean. In the mountainous parts the air is healthy, but in the Maremma on the coast, and in the neighbourhood of the Pontine marshes, are pestilential exhalations which cause fever and ague. The northern parts near the Po are also unhealthy. The soil does not differ materially from that of Tuscany. The oranges and lemons produced in the plain of Rome are the best in Italy. The lands are

commonly held by great proprietors. In the plain of the Po, cultivation is active, but the rest of the country is neglected. The Romans are less industrious than their northern neighbours. The vine and olive grow everywhere. Onions are raised in immense quantities in the marshes of Ancona, Hemp, saffron, and beans, are extensively cultivated.

The commerce is chiefly in the hands of foreigners, and the only seaport of consequence is Civita Vecchia. The manufactures merely supply the home consumption. Some silk is manufactured at Bologna, beside many miscellaneous articles. Gall-nuts and cantharides are articles of exportation.

The government is an elective monarchy. The pope possesses both the legislative and executive power, and is chosen by the college of cardinals from among themselves. The number of cardinals is about 70. Constitutionally, the pope is an absolute sovereign, but in practice he is only the head of an oligarchy. Since the time of Adrian VI., who was obtruded upon the throne by Charles V., all the popes have been Italians. The revenue is 1,237,000l. The debt is 24,700,0001. The military force is about 7000 men. There is no navy. The population is 2,592,329.

Rome, the capital of this territory, once the capital of the world, stands on the Tiber, 15 miles from the sea, It is situated on some low hills, and is 13 miles in circumference, but has much open ground, comprehending gardens, fields, and meadows. It has a sombre appearance, rendered still more striking by large squares, spacious and deserted streets, and the majestic ruins which are seen at every step. Some of the streets are of immense length; others are only half built; many are narrow and crooked. In one part, are noble palaces half hidden among miserable huts; in another part, all is gorgeous and magnificent. Other places may be more beautiful, but Rome is one of the most richly picturesque cities in the world. The hills, insignificant in themselves, seem made to display the buildings to the greatest advantage. The architecture, both ancient and modern, is often faulty and incongruous, but always combines well with the landscape. The spectator is dazzled with the multiplicity of objects, and decaying ruins are relieved by modern magnificence.

The church of St. Peter, built at the expense of the whole Roman world, is the glory of modern architecture. The symmetry and beauty of its proportions cause such sensations of delight, that the traveller, on leaving Rome, finds his most painful regret to be that he shall see St. Peter's no more. It is fronted by a circular colonnade surrounding an Egyptian obelisk and two magnificent fountains. This church was 111 years in building, and cost a sum equal to 160,000,000 dollars at the present day. No other church in Rome can be compared to this, yet there are many remarkable for magnificence and antiquity. The Pantheon is the most perfect edifice of ancient Rome; it is now converted into a church; its portico is unrivalled. Trajan's pillar is a fine monumental column, in good preservation. But the most wonderful monument of Roman magnificence yet remaining, is the Coliseum, an amphitheatre capable of containing 60,000 spectators, and in which the Roman people assembled to witness the combats of gladiators and wild beasts. It is now a ruin, but enough of it remains to attest its former magnificence. It would be impossible to comprise within the limits of this work, even an enumeration of the objects in Rome worthy of notice for their antiquity and historical associations.

The Vatican palace is the greatest repository of ancient and modern art in existence. The whole pile of building, with gardens, comprises a circuit of some miles, and the apartments are numbered at 4442. The library is an immense collection. The Vatican is the residence of the pope in winter. Rome has 300 churches and 300 palaces. The ancient Flaminian Way is now called the Corso, and is a street nearly a mile long, dividing the city into two equal parts. This is the fashionable drive, where the better class display their equipages daily. During the carnival, a horse-race takes place here, which has given the street its modern name. The country around Rome abounds with the remains of antiquity and with villas. The city is unhealthy from the malaria in summer. Its population, in 1829, was 150,000.

Bologna, the next city in size to Rome, is picturesquely situated at the base of the Apennines, in the northern part of the papal territory. It is surrounded by a high brick wall, six miles in circuit. Its curious leaning towers and antique spires, with a curious arcade leading to the church on the top of a steep hill, have a singular and striking effect upon the spectator who approaches it. The city has a venerable aspect without being ruinous, and abounds with large churches and handsome palaces. Here is a university founded by Theodosius the younger, in 425, and the oldest in Europe. The public library has 140,000 volumes. The manufactures of the city are considerable. Population, 70,000.

Ferrara is one of the finest towns in Italy. It is regularly and superbly built, but the traveller would imagine that the inhabitants had just abandoned it. The streets are grass-grown, and all the large houses are empty. The cows pasture undisturbed upon the pavements in front of noble palaces. The city possesses few advantages of situation, but was once very populous. At present it has 23,650 inhabitants. Ravenna, near the Adriatic, had once a harbour which is now filled up. It was once the seat of the Italian Exarchs, and contains the tomb of Dante. Population, 24,000. Ancona, on the Adriatic, is a strong place with a tolerable harbour. Population, 30,000. Civita Vecchia, a seaport on the Mediterranean, has some commerce. Population, 7111.

REPUBLIC OF SAN MARINO.

THIS little territory, the most free and virtuous of all republics, is an independent State under the protection of the Pope: it was founded by a man of low rank, and, having become a refuge for those who sought peace amid the turbulence of the feudal ages, it has remained inviolate for thirteen centuries; either respected or overlooked by the proudest and most mighty oppressors of Italy. It has still "Liberty" inscribed on the gates of its little capitol, and exemplifies, in the virtue, simplicity, and happiness of its people, the powerful influence of free institutions. The government is vested in 60 senators, 20 patricians, 20 burgesses, and 20 peasants, chosen for life, and two gonfaloniers, chosen for three months. The arringo, or general assembly of citizens, is held once every six months. The revenue of the State amounts to $15,000; the army consists of 60 men. The population of the capital is about 5000; four villages constitute the rest of the territory of the republic.

NAPLES.

THE KINGDOM OF NAPLES, or, as it is called, THE TWO SICILIES, is the most considerable in Italy for extent and population, in which respects it approaches to the rank of the great monarchies; but the supine and indolent character of its government almost prevents it from having any weight in the political system. This kingdom comprises all the south of Italy, with the island of Sicily, and a few small islands in the neighbourhood. The continental portion is bounded north-west by the States of the Church; north-east by the Adriatic; south-east by the Ionian Sea, and south-west by the Mediterranean: its extreme length is about 360 miles. Its width varies from 120 to 80 miles. The island of Sicily is separated by a narrow strait from the southern extremity of the continent: its extreme length is 250 miles, and breadth about 130. The continental part contains 30,680 square miles, and the island 12,372: total, 43,052. Population, 7,434,300.

The ridge of the Apennines extends through the whole continental part from north to south. There are other mountains, which have no connexion with this ridge. Four volcanoes are comprised within the kingdom,-Vesuvius, Ætna, Stromboli, and Volcano. All the rivers in the continental part descend from the Apennines. The Garigliano, Vulturno, Silaro, and Crati, are the chief, but are small streams. There is an indescribable richness of vegetation throughout this country. Here flourish the fig-tree, the almond, the cotton-plant, and sugar-cane. Sicily is one of the most productive spots on the earth. The soil is calcareous, and its fertility is much increased by volcanic fire.

The land is mostly the property of great landlords. In Sicily it belongs wholly to the nobility and clergy. Agriculture is badly managed, and the cultivators are poor. On the continent are produced wine, oil, silk, wheat, and maize; sheep are numerous. Sicily produces the same articles, with flax and hemp. The Sicilian wheat grows to an extraordinary height, and is extremely productive. Oranges, lemons, figs, and almonds, are raised in great quantities. The exports are wine, oil, fruits, silk, sulphur, grain, flax, and hemp. The commerce is entirely in the hands of foreigners. No Neapolitan ship ever ventures without the straits of Gibraltar. There are no manufactures of any consequence.

The sciences are in a miserable state throughout the kingdom. There are no schools for the lower classes, and the few means of instruction are in the hands of an ignorant clergy. The three universities at Naples, Palermo, and Catania are provided with fine libraries and numerous professors, but little is taught in them beside law and natural philosophy.

Naples is an hereditary monarchy. The king exercises both the legislative and executive power. The continental and insular parts have each a separate legislation, but these bodies have only the right of voting taxes. The army consists of 28,000 men, and the navy of two ships of the line, five frigates, and fifty small vessels.

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean. It seems to have been separated from the continent by some violent convulsion. The strait of Messina dividing it from the continent, is 5 miles broad. This is the ancient Charybdis, although the whirlpool which rendered it such a terror to mariners, no longer exists. The mountains of this island may be regarded as a continuation of the Apennines. Mount Etna is near the eastern shore. This celebrated volcano has thrown out flames, at intervals, for more than 2000 years. Its immense size and solitary elevation, the beauty and magnificence of the surrounding scenery, and the terrific grandeur of the convulsions to which it has been subject, have made it one of the wonders of the world. At a distance, it appears like a truncated cone. Upon a nearer approach, the traveller is astonished at the wild and grotesque appearance of the whole mountain. Scattered over the immense declivity, he beholds innumerable small conical hills gently rising from the surface to the height of 400 or 500 feet, covered with rich verdure and beautiful trees, villages, scattered hamlets and monasteries. As his eye ascends, he discovers an immense forest of oaks and pines forming a beautiful green belt round the mountain. Above this appears the hoary head of the volcano, boldly rising into the clouds and capped with eternal snow. The crater is a hill of an exact conical figure, composed of ashes and scoriæ. From this opening, smoke is continually ascending. The elevation of the mountain is 10,925 feet. The rivers of Sicily are mere rivulets. The heavy winter rains set the mountain torrents running, but when dry, their beds become tolerable roads to the distance of 3 or 4 miles inland.

The Lipari Islands lie between Sicily and the continent. They are 12 in number; a part of them only are inhabited. Lipari, the principal isle, contains 112 square miles; it is mountainous, and the soil is rendered fertile by a subterranean fire. There was once a volcano here. The island of Stromboli is a volcano that burns without ceasing. Volcano constantly emits smoke. The island of Capri, in the bay of Naples, contains 10 square miles. It consists of two high rocky mountains enclosing a fertile valley. Ischia and Procida are fertile islands in the same neighbourhood.

Naples, the capital, is the largest city in Italy. It stands at the bottom of a bay, and with its suburbs and contiguous villages extends 6 or 8 miles along the water. On the land side it is surrounded by mountains. Nothing can surpass the beauty of the bay or the prospect of the city viewed from the water, where it appears broken into great masses, and crossed by long lines of palaces, hanging gardens, and terraced roofs; the outline upon the sea is strikingly indented, and the shipping is clustered behind the moles, castles and towers on the points of projection. The shores of the bay are covered with interesting ruins, and broken into graceful inlets. The dark towering summit of Vesuvius rises, frowning over the landscape, while its lower regions are covered with the richest vegetation,

and dotted with white country houses. The whole circuit of the bay is edged with white towns, and covered with cultivation and the abundance of nature. The magnificence of the whole scene is beyond the most gorgeous description.

The streets of the city are straight but narrow; some are refreshed with fountains; others are decorated with statues and sculptured obelisks. The houses are high, the roofs flat, more than half the front consists of windows, and every window is faced with an iron balcony. Naples in its interior has no parallel on earth. The whole population is out of doors and in incessant motion. Every trade, occupation and amusement is here going on in the midst of a tumultuous crowd rolling up and down. The number of lazzaroni, or vagabonds, is immense. They are idle from choice; their tatters are not misery, for the climate requires hardly any covering. Six strong castles defend the city, and an excellent mole shelters the port. The commerce is not very active. There are above 300 churches in Naples remarkable for their ornaments and rich jewelry. The nobility are numerous and are much addicted to show and parade: 100 of them have the title of Princes. Population, 364,000.

The environs of Naples combine almost everything grand and beautiful. Many of the towns scattered along the bay have 10 and 15,000 inhabitants. Mount Vesuvius, which forms so striking a feature in the landscape, rises in a pyramidal form in the midst of a large plain. The traveller in ascending it passes among cultivated fields and vineyards, traversed by old streams of lava, black, rough, and sterile. The ascent is gradual and extends 3 miles. On one side the mountain is cultivated nearly to the top. The conical summit is composed of ashes and cinders. The crater is about a mile in circuit, and is 3800 feet above the sea. The view from the summit is enchanting. The soil of the mountain is extremely fertile, and cultivated with the spade like a garden. The crater throws out continual smoke, and often bursts forth in terrible eruptions.

Torre del Greco, a seaport near Naples, has 13,000 inhabitants. Gaeta, on the coast, to the north of Naples, has 15,000. Lecci, in the south, is a fine city. Population, 14,806. Bari, on the Adriatic, has a good harbour and a population of 19,000.

Palermo, the capital of Sicily, stands on a small bay in the north-western part of the island. The streets are regular and wide; the houses elegant, and several of the public squares very beautiful. It has a university, and considerable commerce. Population, 168,000. Catania stands at the foot of Mount Etna. Its streets are straight, spacious and paved with lava. It is the busiest town in Sicily, and has a university, public library, museums, academies, &c. It was founded 700 years before the christian era, and has suffered severely from eruptions of the mountain and earthquakes. Population, 45,100. Messina stands upon the strait of that name, at the north-eastern extremity of Sicily. It is regularly built, and has one of the best harbours in the Mediterranean. Its fine quay extends more than a mile along the port. It is the first commercial town in the kingdom, and its trade extends to the North of Europe and America. It was completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1783, but has been rebuilt. Population, 40,000. Syracuse, on the eastern coast of the island, is a strongly fortified town with a good harbour. It has many Grecian antiquities. Population, 15,000. Girgenti, on the south coast, has an indifferent harbour, but considerable trade. Population, 15,000. Trapani, at the western extremity, has some commerce and coral fisheries. Population, 24,330.

Malta is an island in the Mediterranean Sea, about 54 miles to the south of Sicily, and, though imperfectly connected with Italy, belongs more to it than to any other country. It is about 60 miles in circuit, and, together with the neighbouring small islands of Gozzo and Comino, belongs to Great Britain. In no part of Europe are the defences so imposing. In Gibraltar admiration is excited by the works of nature; in Malta by those of art. To garrison the latter completely would require above 30,000 men. Malta was originally nothing but a barren rock; but such quantities of soil have been carried to it from Sicily and Africa, that it is now fertile and well cultivated; the people are industrious, and raise grain, cotton, and excellent fruits, particularly oranges. In 1825, the native popu

« PředchozíPokračovat »