The most peculiar and important of the birds of Africa is the ostrich. At the present day it would appear to be exclusively confined to that continent, though it was anciently found in the deserts of Syria and Mesopotamia in Asia. The weight of this bird, when full grown, is from 70 to 80 pounds. It is affirmed that it never drinks, but is of all animals the most voracious, devouring lead, glass, metals, &c. The large feathers of the ostrich form a considerable article of trade from several parts of the continent. It is said those brought from Barbary are not procured from the wild birds of the desert, but from half-domesticated individuals which the Arabs take young and breed up in stables, where they are well supplied with soft bedding to prevent them from wearing or injuring the feathers. Similar to the ostrich in many of their habits, and even somewhat in appearance, are the bustards, many different species of which inhabit the karoos and arid plains of this continent.

The Guinea-fowl, the only African bird adapted to the barn-yard, is found exclusively in this region. There are three or four distinct species. They collect in flocks of 400 or 500, and frequent the underwood and bushes in the vicinity of ponds and rivers. There are many species of partridges and grouse; also, waterfowl in abundance on the rivers and lakes; various species of owls, falcons, and vultures; the latter, like the hyænas among the quadrupeds, are highly useful in consuming the offal and carrion which might otherwise taint the air and produce disease. The exquisite sense of smell possessed by these birds is truly surprising. One of the most remarkable and useful birds of prey peculiar to Africa is the secretary vulture, which may be not improperly described as an eagle mounted on the long naked legs of a crane. This bird preys exclusively upon serpents, which it pursues on foot, and destroys in amazing numbers.

Among the smaller birds of Africa are many species remarkable for the gaudiness and brilliancy of their plumage, or the singularity of their manners and economy. Of the former kind may be mentioned the innumerable varieties of parrots and parroquets, which, from the size of a sparrow, upwards to that of a raven, swarm in all the forests, and make the woods resound with their hoarse unmusical screams. Of the latter, it will be sufficient to mention the honey cuckoo, and the little bird called the republican.

Lizards, serpents, and other reptiles, abound in every part of Africa. The crocodile inhabits all the large rivers of the tropical parts of the continent, and is still abundant in the Nile below the first cataract. Different species of chameleons may be seen on every hedge or shrub; and the enormous python, a serpent thirty feet long, lurks in the fens and morasses. Among the venomous species, the dipsas, the asp, and the cerastes, or horned viper, are frequently mentioned by the ancient classical writers; whilst the garter-snake, the puff adder, and other species, are at present employed to poison their arrows, by the Bushmans, the only African tribe who use this deadly and cowardly weapon.

Of the insect tribes, Africa also contains many thousand different kinds. The locust has been, from time immemorial, the proverbial scourge of the whole continent; scorpions, scarcely less to be dreaded than the noxious serpents, are everywhere abundant; and the zebub, or fly, one of the instruments employed by the Almighty to punish the Egyptians of old, is still the plague of the low and cultivated districts.

The number of African languages is supposed to be more than 200; and 70 or 80 have been distinguished with tolerable accuracy. But they are too imperfectly known to admit of minute description. In Northern Africa, the Copts of Egypt have a peculiar language in their sacred books, which is no more employed in conversation. The Turkish and Arabic are spoken by the Turks, both in Egypt and Barbary. The Berbers of Mount Atlas, and those extending along the north of the Great Desert, preserve a common language (supposed to be the ancient Numidian) through a great extent of country, together with the Arabic of the Koran. The Ethiopic, or Geez, and its modern branch, the Amharic, are the principal languages of Abyssinia; but various other dialects are in common use. Western and Central Africa many of the languages have similar combinations of letters and some common words. But almost every tribe of Negroes has a distinct

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language, and it often varies from village to village. The Hottentots, Bushmans and other tribes of South Africa, speak various dialects, apparently of a common origin. They differ from all others in a sort of clucking noise, somewhat like that of a fowl, which attends every word. The Caffres have a different language, as well as a different aspect from the surrounding Negroes.

The divisions under which Africa will be considered in the following sketch of it are Barbary, Egypt, Nubia, Abyssinia, Sahara, or the Great Desert, Western Africa, Southern Africa, Eastern and Central Africa, together with the African Islands. The population of this great division of the earth has been variously estimated by different writers, and as nothing but vague conjecture can be employed in their calculations, even in relation to those parts of the continent best known and explored, and considering that our knowledge of it does not extend to more than the one-fortieth or fiftieth part of its surface, it is evident that calculations of the total amount of the inhabitants cannot be regarded in any other light than as a mere expression of opinion. The estimate of M. Malte Brun is 70,000,000; Graberg, 99,000,000; Hassel, from 100 to 110,000,000; and by others it has been carried as high as 150,000,000.

BARBARY.

BARBARY is that portion of Northern Africa stretching eastward from the Atlantic Ocean, including Morocco, Algiers, Tunis, and Tripoli. It ranges through 36 degrees of longitude, being about 2100 miles in extent from east to west. This region is traversed from east to west by the elevated chain of mountains called Atlas, of which the loftiest pinnacles rise above the plains of Morocco to the height of 11,400 feet; but beyond the frontier of that State, and eastward through Algiers and Tunis, they seldom exceed 3000 or 4000 feet; and in the territory of Tripoli they sink into lower eminences, and gradually subside to that flat sterile surface which characterises Northern Africa.

Between the mountains and the sea is a tract of level, well-watered and fertile country, from 50 to 100 miles in width: this is the most productive and best inhabited portion of Barbary. South of the mountains, and between them and the great desert, is another tract, dry and sandy; this, however, derives a certain degree of fertility from the various small streams poured down from the Atlas: it is particularly fruitful in dates, which grow in such abundance that the inhabitants subsist nearly altogether upon them. This region is usually denominated Bled el Jerid, or the dry country.

In Barbary, vegetation is vigorous and exuberant; all the fruits of Southern Europe come to perfection; the excellence of the olive is particularly noted; the vine flourishes, though the religious system of the natives deters them from converting the grape into wine, even for exportation. Wheat and barley are the grains usually cultivated, and, notwithstanding the imperfection of the cultivation, such is the fertility of the soil and the want of a manufacturing population to consume its produce, that a large surplus accumulates in every State, which forms, when permitted, the staple article of export.

The trade of the Barbary States is limited; the exports consisting chiefly in the raw produce of the soil. In ancient times the African coast formed the granary of the Roman Empire; and its corn continued to find a copious market in Southern Europe till its exportation was prohibited by the absurd policy of all the Barbary States except Tunis: even there, it is loaded with heavy imposts.

The most active commerce of the Barbary States is that by the caravans with the interior country south of the great desert. Tripoli sends hers by Fezzan to Bornou and Houssa, and thence to the southward as far as Ashantee; Tunis by Gadamis; and Tuat to Timbuctoo; Morocco across the broadest part of the desert to the same city, and to the countries on the Senegal. Into these regions the caravans carry salt, with various articles of European manufacture.

The Barbary States, particularly Algiers, Tunis, and Tripoli, were formerly engaged in piracy. In their piratical expeditions they exhibited the utmost cour

age and fierceness, and their captives were generally subjected to the most galling slavery.

This territory is occupied by several distinct races. The Moors chiefly inhabit the towns: they are generally of middle stature, and are of all shades of complexion, from their frequent intercourse with their negro slaves; they have few amusements, and think it a crime to have a book. They are devoted Mahometans, and hate and despise the Jews and Christians most heartily. The Arabs, originally from the great desert, overspread the plains, live in tents, usually pitched in a circle, called Douars, and follow a pastoral life: they are hospitable, and when they promise may be trusted. They are slightly made and under the middle size. The Berbers and Shilluks inhabit the mountain range of the Atlas: the former the north-eastern part, and the latter the south-west: their occupation is mostly that of huntsmen: they also cultivate the ground and rear many bees, and are probably the aborigines of the country, having been driven to the mountains by the incursions of the Arabs and Moors. The next class are the Jews; of these there are great numbers, who are much despised, taxed, and abused, and are permitted to engross almost every species of lucrative trade and commerce. They coin the money, are the principal mechanics, and transact the greater part of the business. Many of them acquire great wealth, which they carefully conceal lest their rapacious rulers should rob them of it.

Of the population of the Barbary States only a very loose calculation can be made; it has been variously stated by different writers at from 10,000,000 to 20,000,000: the following estimate conforms to the first stated number: Morocco, 6,000,000; Algiers, 1,900,000; Tunis, 1,500,000; and Tripoli, 600,000; in all 10,000,000.

MOROCCO.

MOROCCO, the most westerly, is also the most extensive and important, of the Barbary States. It has two coasts: one along the Mediterranean facing the north, the other and larger along the Atlantic, looking to the west. The loftiest part of the chain of Atlas runs parallel to these coasts, changing its direction along with them, and leaving an intermediate plain, finely watered and not surpassed in natural fertility by any part of the globe. Beyond the range of Atlas, however, Morocco includes a more arid region, named Tafilet, unfit for grain, but yielding the finest dates in the world, and rearing a breed of goats whose skins afford the material for the fine morocco leather.

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The political and social state of Morocco is rude and degrading. The emperor possesses a power more despotic than any other even of the Mahometan potentates. He is not held in check by a mufti, an ulema, or even a council or divan. He is supposed to possess a divine character, and to be superior to all law. emperor, being reminded of a promise, said, "Takest thou me to be an infidel, that I must be the slave of my word?" Yet this monarch must pay respect to longestablished usages and institutions; must not invade the domestic privacy of any of his subjects; and must even give public audience four times a week to administer justice to all who may appeal to him from the cadi, or local governor. The revenue is collected in kind in the proportion of a tenth of grain, and a twentieth of cattle, which, aided by fines and the poll-tax upon Jews, amounts to about £1,000,000 sterling.

Industry and commerce have in Morocco a very limited range. The only important manufacture is that of the leather which bears its name. One tannery in the capital employs, it is said, 1500 persons; and though the processes are slovenly, a fine colour is produced, which Europeans are unable to imitate.

The outrageous piracy formerly exercised from Sallee and other ports of Morocco, has for a considerable time ceased. In the southern part of this region, and bordering on the great desert, is the district or province of Suse, a fruitful and well settled country, over which the Sultan of Morocco pretends to assume authority, which is not, however, recognised by the people. It contains a number of

little walled towns and villages, under the control of petty chiefs, who are frequently at war with each other, and also with the Moors and the Arabs of the desert.

Morocco, the capital, is situated on a very extensive and naturally fruitful plain, above which rises abruptly, covered with perpetual snow, one of the loftiest ranges of Atlas. The mosques are numerous, and several of them present striking specimens of Arabian architecture, particularly that called El Koutouben, the tower of which is 220 feet high. Of the eleven gates, one is richly sculptured in the Moorish style. The palace forms an oblong of 1500 by 600 yards, divided into enclosures, where, surrounded by gardens, are the pavilions of the sovereign, his principal officers and ladies. The floors are tessellated with variously coloured tiles; but a mat, a small carpet and cushions, compose the entire furniture. Beautiful gardens surround the city, and spacious aqueducts, conveying water from the Atlas, twenty miles distant, bear testimony to a superior state of the arts in former times.

Fez, situated in the more northerly province of the same name, is a place of high celebrity, and ranked long as the splendid and enlightened metropolis of Western Africa. It was founded, in the end of the eighth century, by a prince of the name of Edris, and rose to such magnitude, that Leo, in the twelfth century, describes it, though doubtless with some exaggeration, as containing 700 mosques, of which fifty were magnificent and adorned with marble pillars. Its schools and its baths were also very celebrated. At present it is described by the latest travellers as presenting a singular mixture of splendour and ruin; and, amid the usual defects of Mahometan cities, the splendour being almost confined to the interior of the houses, it is still an agreeable place. Fez is still not without some of the sciences which formerly rendered it illustrious; but they are nearly confined to the Koran and its commentators, a slight tincture of grammar and logic, and some very imperfect astronomical observations. The population, respecting which authors greatly vary, is probably rather under than above 100,000. Mequinez, to the west of Fez, has risen to importance by having been made the residence of the sovereign. The seraglio, or palace, consists of a most extensive quadrangular enclosure, though the mansions which it contains are only one story high. The citizens are said to be more polished and hospitable, and the females handsomer, than in the other cities of Morocco. The population seems extremely uncertain. It is asserted that the emperor has in his treasury in this city money, bullion, and jewels, to the amount of $50,000,000.

The sea-ports of Morocco, though they have lost the greatness formerly derived from commerce and piracy, are still not inconsiderable. Mogadore, the most southerly, and the nearest to the capital, is now the chief emporium of the intercourse with Europe. It was founded only in 1760, by the emperor Sidi Mohammed, who spared no pains in raising it to importance. Being composed of houses of white stone, it makes a fine appearance from the sea; but the interior presents the usual gloom of Moorish cities, and is chiefly enlivened by the residences of the European merchants and consuls. The country round is almost a desert of sand; water is scarce, and provisions must be brought from the distance of several miles. The population is reckoned at about 10,000. Saffi, or Azaffi, a very ancient town, with a fine harbour, though also in a barren country, was the chief seat of European commerce till the monopolising preference of the emperor transferred it to Mogadore. Saffi is still supposed to retain a population of 12,000. Mazagan, a small well-built place, of 2000 inhabitants, was in the possession of the Portuguese till 1770. Azamore, formerly a great town, and with walls a mile and a half in circuit, is now deserted and crumbling into ruin: it has 3000 people.

Farther north, on the opposite sides of a small river, are the important towns of Sallee and Rabat. Sallee, once the terror of the seas, whence issued such bands of pirates and rovers, the seat of action, riot, and bustle, is now still and lifeless. It continues, however, to be surrounded by a wall thirty feet high, and in its mosques, arches, and fountains displays traces of beautiful sculptare, and of great antiquity. What remains of its commerce has been mostly transferred across the river to Rabat, or New Sallee. This place, when viewed from without,

presents a picturesque grouping of minarets, palm-trees, ruined walls, and old mosques, near which are conspicuous its venerable and battlemented Kassubah, or citadel, and the lofty tower of Sma Hassan. The interior retains still some activity, and the markets are well supplied. Population, 18,000, of whom 3000 are Jews. Larache was once a flourishing European and Christian town; but the churches are now converted into mosques, and the deserted houses of the consuls line the Marina. It has been made the imperial arsenal, and is very strong towards the sea. Tangier, on the straits, was in 1662 ceded by Portugal to England, which abandoned it in 1684. It derives its chief present importance from the permission granted by the emperor to supply Gibraltar with provisions, and from the residence of European consuls. Tetuan, the only port within the Mediterranean, is allowed to carry on some intercourse with the English, whose vessels often take in supplies there on their way up the Mediterranean.

ALGIERS.

ALGIERS comprises an extensive and beautiful range of coast, lying between 20 W. and about 9° E. longitude; and thus extending 700 miles in length. The breadth of the inland territory is variously estimated at from 100 to 150 miles.

The territory of Algiers is greatly distinguished by natural fertility. With the exception of some arid and rocky plains, it consists of valleys covered with rich pastures, fitted for the best kinds of European grain, blooming with the orange and the myrtle, and producing olives, figs, and grapes of peculiar excellence and size. Yet the indolence of the people, the oppression of the government, the want of roads and interior communications, cause three-fourths of the country to be left uncultivated. Their oil, wine, and butter are all of inferior quality. They are not so wholly destitute of manufacturing industry. Skins are prepared and coloured in almost as perfect a manner as in Morocco. Their bonnets, shawls, and handkerchiefs are in request throughout the Levant. Baskets of palm-leaves, and mats of junk, are fashioned with singular elegance. Essence of roses is prepared with a skill little to be expected in such rude hands; but there is an extensive demand for the article in the voluptuous palaces of the East. The trade, before the French invasion, was almost entirely in the hands of the Jews, and consisted in the export of these manufactures, and of some grain, oil, wax, fruits, and wool. The Algerines took, in return, light cloths, glass, and toys, but showed a great preference for fire-arms and powder; while the European merchants have been reproached, not only for supplying them with these articles, but even for purchasing the proceeds of their piratical expeditions. The fishery of coral, carried on by European vessels, produces an annual value of about 100,000.

That turbulent and piratical system of which Algiers was the centre, is now become a subject only of history. The country was long domineered over by a body of Turkish troops, not supposed to exceed 15,000, and who were recruited from the meanest classes in the ports of the Levant. This body, at short intervals, strangled the Dey, electing in his stead the boldest and bravest of their number. The corsairs formed a kind of separate republic, carrying on their barbarous trade under the sanction of the prince, who received a large share of the slaves and booty. These marauders, in 1815, suffered a severe chastisement from the American fleet; and from the English in 1816. Again, after they had for some time set France at defiance, that country, in 1830, fitted out a formidable expedition, by which Algiers was entirely subjugated. The French, however, have said very little as to any benefits derived from this acquisition.

Algiers, the capital, is built on the declivity of an eminence facing the Mediterranean, and rising by successive stages above each other, with loftier hills above: it makes thus a magnificent appearance; hence, too, it is said, almost every house commands a view of the sea. On entering the city, however, all this beauty disappears; and it is found a labyrinth of steep, narrow, and dirty lanes. There are, however, several splendid edifices, particularly the palace of the dey, and the principal mosques. The barracks are also fine structures, adorned