with fountains and marble columns; and the naval arsenal is spacious and commodious. The bagnios, as the quarters formerly destined for the slaves were called, are huge, but gloomy and dirty edifices. The estimates of the population have hitherto varied from 50,000 to 200,000; but in 1833, it was found to amount to only 25,226, of whom 5226 were Europeans.

The French expedition captured 2,000,000l. sterling in money, besides an ample supply of ships, artillery, and ammunition. The fortifications towards the sea are very strong, but on the land side by no means formidable; so that, when the French had effected a landing with a superior force, they soon became masters of Algiers.

In the western quarter of the Algerine territory, the most distinguished place is Tremecen, or Tlemsen, once the capital of a powerful kingdom, still containing about 20,000 inhabitants, situated in a beautiful and finely watered district. Mascara, about a mile in circuit, on the face of a mountain which commands the view of a fertile and well-cultivated plain, is an agreeable but ill-built city. Oran, on the sea-coast, long a subject of contention between the Moors and the Spaniards, remained in possession of the latter people till 1792. The fortifications have been injured by earthquakes; but the spacious magazines built of stone remain entire. It has a roadstead with good anchorage, but so exposed that vessels are obliged to land their cargoes at the point of Mers el Keber, about a mile from the city. The inhabitants are now about 4000.

In the eastern part of this territory, Constantina ranks second to Algiers, and is supposed to contain about 15,000 inhabitants. It is boldly situated on a rock, precipitous on one side, where it overhangs the broad stream of the Rummell. The surrounding country is fine. The site, however, is distinguished by splendid monuments of antiquity; and the ground in one place is entirely covered with the remains of broken walls, columns, and cisterns. Boujeiah, celebrated as a strong and piratical sea-port, retains still marks of the breaches made upon the walls in 1671, when it was stormed by Sir Edward Sprague. The fortifications are now barely sufficient to hold the wandering Arabs in check; but it derives some importance from its iron manufactures, and the export of wax and oil. Bona was in modern times the chief settlement of the French African Company, which they lost during the revolutionary war. It derives consequence from the coral fishery carried on in its vicinity; and the same cause gives value to La Cala and the neighbouring island of Tabarca, which were also long in possession of the French.

TUNIS.

TUNIS has a territory very differently situated from that of Algiers. From the frontier of that country, the coast continues to extend eastward, with a slight inclination to the north, till it reaches Cape Bona, the most northerly point of Africa. It then makes a sudden bend southward, and, with some windings, follows that direction as far as Cape Zerbi, for a space of about 250 miles. This coast, with the country reaching for upwards of 100 miles inland, composes the territory of Tunis. It is not so extensive as that of Algiers; but it is not so closely hemmed in by the branches of the Atlas, nor are they so steep or so lofty; and there intervenes between them and the sea a spacious plain, watered by the noble river Bagrada, or Mejerda, and profusely covered with all the riches of culture and vegetation. The people, also, though composed essentially of the same elements as those of Algiers, have imbibed a considerably greater share of polish and civilization. The situation of the territory, projecting into the Mediterranean, and at an easy distance from the finest shores of southern Europe, fitted it to be the seat of the most celebrated commercial republic of antiquity. Carthage, by her commerce, rose to such grandeur as to dispute with Rome the empire of the world; and, even after being completely vanquished, and her walls levelled with the ground, she continued one of the chief Roman cities, and the capital of the African provinces.

The city of Tunis, only ten miles south-west from the site of Carthage, and on the same spacious bay, possesses all the advantages which raised that city to such a height of prosperity. It is, in fact, the largest place in Barbary, the population being estimated at from 100,000 to 130,000. This city has entirely renounced its piratical habits, and applied itself to several branches of useful industry. There are extensive manufactures of velvets, silk stuffs, and the red caps generally worn in the Levant. The exportation of grain, absurdly prohibited in the other ports on this coast, is allowed under a tickery, or license from the dey.

The Tunisian olive oil, wool, and soap, are largely exported. There is also a considerable traffic with interior Africa for its staples of gold, ivory, and ostrich feathers. Tunis takes a variety of European manufactures, East India stuffs, and colonial produce. Of the other cities of Tunis, the chief is Kairwan, founded by the Saracens, and long the capital of their possessions in Northern Africa.

Tozer, on the Lake of Lowdeah, is only a large village, but enriched by trade with the country of dates and interior Africa. On the north coast, Porto Farini, near which are the ruins of Utica, and Bizerta, have both some trade in grain; though the fine harbour of the latter is now so choked up as to allow only small vessels to enter. Of the towns on the coast, reaching southward from Tunis, Monasteer and Cabes are distinguished by a flourishing modern trade, which gives to the one a population of 12,000, and to the other of 20,000. Sfax carries on traffic on a smaller scale; and the island of Zerbi is noted for manufacturing industry. Near El Jem are the remains of a magnificent amphitheatre.

TRIPOLI.

TRIPOLI presents a different aspect, and one by no means so grateful and smiling as the western regions of Barbary. That great mountain range, which has diffused through them verdure and fertility, terminates, and the great plain of sand which generally covers Northern Africa presses close upon the cultivated territory. The district in which the city stands forms only an oasis, and one not very extensive; and he who takes his departure from it in any direction finds himself soon in the heart of the desert. Tripoli thus cannot equal the other capitals of Barbary, and its population is not supposed to exceed 25,000. Even this is supported rather by commerce and industry, than by the limited productions of the soil. It is, however, the chief theatre of the intercourse with Bornou and Houssa, the most fertile countries in the interior of Africa; over which it exercises even a species of dominion. Fezzan, the great emporium of the caravan trade, is tributary to the pacha; and he possesses a powerful influence over the courts of Kouka and Sockatoo. This prince has shown a more enlightened spirit, a greater desire to cultivate intercourse with the European powers, and to introduce the improvements of civilized life, than any other in Barbary. A singular absence of that jealousy which usually actuates Mahometan courts, has been displayed in the welcome given to the British expeditions of discovery, and the zeal displayed in promoting their objects. Tripoli cannot be called a fine city; yet its palace, and the generality of its mosques, have some beauty; and there is a triumphal arch and several other interesting remains of antiquity.

To the eastward of Tripoli, and in its close vicinity, begins a dreary portion of the Great Desert of Africa. A few days, however, bring the traveller to the district of Lebda, or the ancient Leptis Magna, where thick groves of olive and date trees are seen rising above the villages, and a great space is covered with luxuriant crops of grain. A similar country continues to Mesurata, to the east of which is also a plain singularly fertile. Mesurata carries on a manufactory of carpets, and a considerable trade with Central Africa. At the termination of this plain commences the desolate expanse of the Syrtis. Stretching around the Gulf of Sidra, or Syrtis, for 400 miles, it presents an almost tenantless and desolate waste, except occasionally some little valleys or detached spots traversed by the Arabs with their flocks, herds, and movable tents.

Barca commences at the termination of the Gulf of Sidra, and exhibits a very improved aspect. It is traversed by a steep and high ridge abounding in springs, which, according to Arab report, amount to 360, and sprinkle the surrounding desert with valleys of the most brilliant verdure and fertility. On this coast the Greeks founded Cyrene, one of their most flourishing colonies. At present it is abandoned by all civilized and industrious nations, and, with the exception of a few poor villages, is occupied exclusively by the wandering Arabs with their flocks and herds. Bengazi, the Berenice of the Ptolemies, is now only a miserable village. Every trace of the ancient city appears to have been buried under the sands of the surrounding desert. The range of valleys, however, east of Bengazi, is singularly picturesque, their sides being in many places steep and rocky; yet every cleft is filled with a brilliant vegetation.

In this tract are found the two ancient, now entirely deserted, cities of Teuchira and Ptolemeita. The ruins of Cyrene, which may be said to be a recent discovery, form the most striking object in this remarkable region. Derne and Bengazi are the only places in Barca at all deserving the name of towns. They are both the residence of governors dependent upon the pacha of Tripoli. The former was taken by General Eaton, in 1805.

Eastward from this point, extends the ancient Marmarice, a bleak region crowded with beasts and birds of prey, where human existence is indicated only by the bleating flocks and the dark tent of the Arab. Yet there is cultivation in favoured spots, and the traces of cisterns and canals of irrigation mark the former existence of a civilized and even somewhat numerous people. The population of the whole region eastward from Tripoli is perhaps 100,000.

EGYPT.

EGYPT, formerly a mighty empire, the seat of a high civilization, the land of wonderful creations of human power, and an object of endless curiosity to the philosophic inquirer, lies between 22° and 32° Ñ. lat., and 27° and 34° E. lon. It is bounded on the north by the Mediterranean Sea; on the east by the Red Sea and by Arabia, with which it is connected by the Isthmus of Suez; on the south by Nubia, and on the west by Barca and the Great Desert. It contains about 200,000 square miles, of which only about 17,000 square miles in the Valley of the Nile (600 miles long, and from 12 to 25 broad) are susceptible of cultivation. The population is estimated at about 2,500,000. It is divided into Upper Egypt, Middle Egypt, and Lower Egypt, including the fertile Delta. These are again divided into 12 provinces, each of which is governed by a bey.

Three chains of mountains run through the country. The Nile flows through it in a northerly direction. This river, the most remarkable in the world, forms the principal feature of this region. From the high chain of Abyssinia, and from the still loftier Mountains of the Moon that traverse Central Africa, descend numerous and ample streams, which long before entering Egypt unite in forming this great river. Although the Nile, in its whole progress of 1600 miles through Nubia and Egypt, does not receive the accession of a single rivulet, it brings so vast an original store as enables it to reach and pour a mighty stream into the Mediterranean. In the lower part of its course, the Nile is on a level with the district which it intersects, and, when swelled by the autumnal rains of Central Africa, overflows it entirely. The waters begin to rise about the 18th or 19th of June, attain their greatest height in September, and subside as gradually as they rose, and within an equal space of time. The land thus covered with the fertilizing alluvial deposit collected during so lengthened a course, becomes the most productive perhaps on the face of the globe; and notwithstanding its limited extent, and the mighty wastes on which it borders, has always maintained a numerous population.

Lake Maris, so celebrated in antiquity, is at present called Birket Karun, and is almost dried up: there are others, especially the Natron, or Salt Lakes. The

climate is in general hot, and is moderate in Lower Egypt only. The great heat produces the rankest vegetation. The simoom, a formidable south wind, which blows at intervals during the first 50 days after the vernal equinox; the plague, and ophthalmia, are the peculiar torments of Egypt. It has but two seasons, spring and summer: the latter lasts from April to November. During this period, the sky is always clear, and the weather hot. In the spring, the nights are cool and refreshing.

The greater part of the land is arid, and covered with burning sands; but wherever the waters of the Nile are conducted in canals beyond the natural limits of their overflow, the earth becomes fertile, and fruits thrive with great luxuriance.

A remarkable change has of late years taken place in the climate of this country. Formerly, it scarcely ever rained, and only for a short time at Alexandria; now it rains there for 30 or 40 days annually; and sometimes after the middle of October it does not cease for five or six days together. At Cairo, instead of a few drops falling, and those rarely, there are from fifteen to twenty rainy days every winter. It is supposed that this change of climate is owing to the immense plantations of the pacha, twenty millions of trees having been planted below Cairo. The contrary effect has been produced in Upper Egypt, by the destruction of the trees there.

The products of Egypt are corn, rice, millet, melons, sugar-cane, papyrus, flax and hemp, saffron, indigo, aloes, jalap, coloquintida, cardamom, cotton; and palmgroves, sycamores, tamarinds, cassia, acacias, &c., cover the country. There is not a great variety of garden flowers, but roses are raised in large quantities, especially in the marshy Fayoum, and rose-water forms an important article of export. The soil consists of lime, with numerous shells and petrifactions: it contains marble, alabaster, porphyry, jasper, granite, common salt, natron, saltpetre, alum, &c.

The people consist of Copts (embracing, at most, 30,000 families), Arabs (who are the most numerous, and are divided into Fellahs or peasants, and Bedouins, the wandering tribes of the desert), and Turks, the ruling people. The Mamelukes have been driven out of the country, and nearly exterminated. Besides these, there are Jews, Greeks, Armenians, &c. The Egyptian generally has a strong, active frame; tawny complexion, gay disposition, and a good heart, and is not devoid of capacity. He is temperate and religious, but superstitious. The prevailing religion is that of Mahommed, and the prevailing language the Arabic. The inhabitants devote themselves to agriculture, the raising of bees and poultry, the preparation of rose-water and sal ammoniac, the manufacturing of leather, flax, hemp, silk and cotton, carpets, glass, and potters' ware, and carry on an important commerce. Constantinople is supplied with grain from Egypt, which, when a Roman province, was called the granary of Rome. The coasting-trade is considerable. Alexandria, Damietta, and Suez, are the principal harbours, and much inland traffic is carried on, chiefly with Syria, Arabia, and Western Africa. The expulsion of the Mamelukes from Egypt almost wholly subjected it to the sway of Mohammed Ali, who had received from the Porte the appointment of pacha, but who, profiting by the distractions of the Ottoman empire, has established a power wholly independent. His administration has hitherto been a blessing to Egypt. He has established a better system of law and order than that unfortunate country had for ages experienced. He encourages every species of industry, and is studying to introduce the arts and improvements of Europe. Actuated by the usual ambition of monarchs, he has attempted conquest, and extended his dominion southward along the Nile as far as Sennaar, and even to Darfour; but tracts so distant and difficult of access can never be held without much difficulty, and are said to have already eluded his sway. In Arabia, he has completely crushed the power of the Wahabees, and added to his domain the sacred territory of Mecca and Medina,

For some time Mohammed Ali ceased not to own the supremacy of the Porte, and sent to Constantinople a tribute in money and grain. Now, however, he has established his complete independence, and has even threatened to overthrow the

Ottoman power, which was only saved by the interference of Russia. He has also acquired Syria, Cyprus, Candia, and Yemen, very important possessions, forming some of the most favoured of the territories of his old master. Mohammed

Ali is particularly attentive to the public security: he takes, therefore, all Europeans, &c. under his immediate protection. He has done much for the commerce and industry as well as civilization of Egypt. He is the principal merchant of the country, and no others can deal with foreign countries without his consent. The revenue of the pacha is about 18,000,000 dollars, arising from poll and land taxes; customs of the ports of Cairo, Suez, Damietta, Alexandria, &c.; branches of revenue farmed out, including various fisheries; from the mint; from the sale of the cotton, indigo, silk, sugar, rice, saffron, wool, ivory, frankincense, &c., which he monopolizes, purchasing them at a low rate from his subjects, &c. The army, which formerly consisted only of an undisciplined and turbulent, though brave militia, has been placed by Mohammed Ali on the most efficient footing. By the aid of French officers, he has disciplined a large body of troops in the European manner, and rendered them decidedly superior to any force which the East can oppose to them. In 1834, the troops thus trained were reckoned at 74,000. The pacha has founded, at Cairo, a military college, in which 1400 boys are educated by numerous European teachers, and in which he expends monthly about 6000 dollars. He has also established there a cannon-foundery, and a manafactory of arms and gunpowder. His navy consists of 9 ships of the line, 7 frigates, and 30 smaller vessels.

Egypt abounds in the most remarkable antiquities. The pyramids are perhaps the most astonishing monuments of human labour. That of Cheops, which is the largest, is 499 feet high, with a square base of 693 feet in extent, consisting chiefly of a solid mass of masonry. There are extensive catacombs existing in various places, from which mummies, or embalmed bodies, are obtained. Some of these were deposited 3000 or 4000 years ago.

At Thebes, in Upper Egypt, are remains which are calculated to fill the beholder with astonishment. Almost the whole extent of eight miles along the river is covered with magnificent portals, obelisks decorated with sculpture, forests of columns, and long avenues of colossal statues. One of the temples is a mile and a half in circumference. It has 12 principal entrances; the body of the temple consists of a prodigious hall or portico; the roof is supported by 134 columns. Four beautiful obelisks mark the entrance to the shrine, a place of sacrifice, which contains three apartments built entirely of granite. The temple of Luxor probably surpasses in beauty and splendour all the other ruins of Egypt. In front are two of the finest obelisks in the world: they are of rose-coloured marble, 100 feet in height. But the objects which most attract attention are the sculptures, which cover the whole of the northern front. They contain, on a great scale, a representation of a victory gained by one of the ancient kings of Egypt over his Asiatic enemies. The number of human figures introduced amounts to 1500; 500 on foot, and 1000 in chariots. Such are some of the remains of a city which perished long before the records of authentic history begin. Its story is recorded only in the dim lights of poetry and tradition, which might be suspected of fable, did not these mighty witnesses remain to attest their veracity.

Cairo, the chief city, stands on the eastern side of the Nile, 10 miles above the Delta. The houses are built of stone and brick, with terraces and flat roofs, and the windows are often glazed with coloured glass. There is a prodigious number of gardens in the city. The mosques are covered with Arabesque ornaments and adorned with handsome minarets. The waters of the river are received by canals into a great number of docks, or artificial ponds in different parts of the city. Cairo is the most populous city of Africa, and has a flourishing trade with the interior by caravans. The population, in 1810, was 262,700.

Alexandria stands upon the Mediterranean, and has a double harbour. Its site is a narrow neck of land between Lake Mareotis and the sea. It communicates with the western arm of the Nile by a canal. This city was founded by Alexander the Great, and soon rose to wealth and greatness. It was the capital of the Ptolemies, and for science and literature was second only to Rome. It contained