The Tuaricks, who spread terror through the half of Africa, were considered by Captain Lyon, as to external appearance, the finest race he ever saw; tall, erect, and handsome, with an imposing air of pride and independence. Their skin is not dark, unless where deeply embrowned by exposure to the sun. They hold in contempt all who live in houses and cultivate the ground, deriving their subsistence solely from pasturage, commerce, and plunder, with a considerable preference of the latter pursuit. The chief Tuarick tribes are the Ghraat, in the neighbourhood of Gadamis; the Tagama, who border on Houssa; and the Kolluvi, who occupy most of the intermediate territory. They possess, in particular, the kingdom of Agdass, whose capital, of the same name, has been long celebrated as a commercial emporium, and said even to equal Tripoli; but our information respecting it is very scanty.

In the western region of the desert, the tribes occupying its scattered habitable portions appear to be all Moors or Arabs migrated from Morocco, and who have brought with them their usual pastoral, wandering, warlike, and predatory habits. These last they exercise with a relentless cruelty elsewhere unusual. A splendid booty is frequently opened to them by the vessels which suffer shipwreck on the dreary and dangerous shores of the Sahara, and which are always plundered with the most furious avidity: the only hope of the wretched captives is to be able to tempt their masters, by the promise of a high ransom, to be paid at Mogadore. Yet these dreary regions are animated by the constant passage of the great caravans between Morocco and Timbuctoo. In the most western quarter, also, at Hoden, Tisheet or Tegazza, and Taudeny, are extensive mines of rock salt, an article which is wanting and in extensive demand over all the populous regions of Central Africa. The passage of these caravans, and the formation of depôts of salt, have given to Walet an importance said nearly to equal that of Timbuctoo. Aroan, also in the very heart of the desert, derives from these two trades a population of about 3000 souls. Of these rude wandering tribes, it may be enough to name the Monselmines, Mongearts, Woled Deleym, Lodajas, Woled Abousseba, Braknaks, Trasarts. But the chief state occupied by the Moors is Ludamar, on the frontier of Bambarra, which almost claims the title of kingdom. The bigotry and ferocity of the race were strongly marked by the treatment which Park met with during his captivity. Benowm, their capital, is merely a large Arab encampment of dirty, tent-shaped huts. In the heart of the desert, between Gadamis and Timbuctoo, is the district of Tuat, inhabited by a mixture of Arabs and Tuaricks, in no respect better than the rest of the desert tribes. Major Laing sustained among them a signal disaster. Akkably and Ain-el-Saleh, their chief towns, are frequented as caravan stations.

WESTERN AFRICA.

WESTERN AFRICA seems the only general name under which it is possible to comprise that wide range of coast, excluding the Great Desert, which extends along the Atlantic from the Senegal to the river of Benguela. The greater part is known to Europe under the appellation of Guinea, which, however, is confined to the shores of the vast gulf so called, commencing at Cape Mesurado. It even applies most strictly to the northern shores of that gulf, terminating with the rivers of Benin; for the term Lower Guinea, applied to Loango, Congo, and the neighbouring territories, is in much less frequent use. The territories on and between the Senegal and Gambia, are by the French called Senegambia; but these names are all European, and unknown to the natives. The whole region is split into a multitude of states, mostly small, and without any political connexion. There is a general resemblance of climate, nature, aspect, and character, which justifies us in classing them under one head.

The limits of Senegambia, though in general variously defined, may be considered as extending along the coast from the southern edge of the desert to the colony of Sierra Leone, and from the Atlantic Ocean into the interior, embracing the regions watered by the various tributaries of the Senegal and Gambia rivers;

extending in length about 800, and in breadth where widest, about 700 miles. The country on the coast is much of it flat and marshy, and very unhealthy for Europeans, notwithstanding which, the English, French, and Portuguese, ha e some small settlements; in the interior are many mountainous districts, mostly about the sources of the great rivers. Senegambia is generally well watered by the Senegal and its numerous branches, and also by the Gambia and Rio Grande. The climate and vegetable productions are such as belong to the equatorial regions.

This region is inhabited by different tribes, of whom our accounts are very imperfect: they are all negroes, but marked with various distinctions of person, character, and manners; they live mostly under petty sovereigns, whose government has no great stability; in general, they are an easy, good-natured race, yet ignorant, barbarous, and degraded. Among these various nations, the Foulahs, Jaloffs, and Mandingoes, are the most numerous; other less prominent races are the Feloops, Naloes, Pagoes, Susoos, Timmanies, &c.

The Foulahs are widely diffused over Western Africa, and are the most prominent race in several interior kingdoms they are distinguished from the other Negroes by their superior forms and features, and are of a complexion inclining to olive; their habits are pastoral, and their character for honesty, industry, and sobriety, is superior to that of any other race in this quarter of the globe; they are supposed to be the same people as the Fellatahs of Soudan. The Foulahs are Mahometans, but are not very strict observers of the injunctions of their faith. The states inhabited by the Foulahs are Fooladoo, their original country far in the interior, Foota Jallon, on the head waters of the Senegal and Gambia Rivers, Bondou and Foota Toro, on the lower part of the Senegal; the latter is one of the most important kingdoms in this quarter of Africa; it is well watered and fertile, and contains a dense population. Wassela on the head waters of the Niger, and Massina eastward of Bambarra, known only by name, are also inhabited by them.

The Jaloffs inhabit the territory situated between the Senegal and Gambia Rivers, and extending from the sea-coast to a considerable distance in the interior; though of a deep black complexion, and with decided Negro features, they are the handsomest race in Western Africa. They boast of their antiquity, and in many respects excel the neighbouring races; their language is softer and more agreeable; they manufacture finer cotton-cloth, and give it a superior dye; they rival the Moors in horsemanship, and are fearless and expert hunters. They occupy several small states, of which the governments are despotic: of these the chief are Barra and Boor Salum on the Gambia, Brak on the Senegal, and Damel and Cayor on the sea-coast. The Mandingoes are the most numerous people of this region. Their employments are chiefly a slight agriculture, fishing with nets and baskets, and above all, traffic, in which their enterprise exceeds that of all the other negro races. They conduct large kafilas to a considerable distance in the interior, and their language is well understood in all the commercial districts. They are cheerful, inquisitive, and inveterate dancers. Their taste is rather more refined than is usual among the Africans, particularly in poetry; the extemporary composition and recitation of which forms one of their favourite amusements. They are partly Mahometans and partly pagans. Their original country is Manding, of which the government is a species of republicanism. They are found extending all over these countries, from the River Senegal to Sierra Leone. The Feloops to the south of the Gambia are a wild unsocial race. Their country

is fertile, abounding in rice, poultry, and honey, from which last, they prepare a species of mead. On the Rio Grande are the Naloes, farther south of these the Pagoes and Susoos, and adjoining the Colony of Sierra Leone, the Timmanees, a depraved race, who were the chief agents in the slave-trade. Their agriculture is peculiarly rude, and the cloths of their manufacture very coarse. They abuse the English as having deprived them of almost their only source of wealth, which consisted in the sale of slaves. The native states in Senegambia are with few exceptions small and unimportant, and under the control of chiefs, who, as in almost all the African states, rule with despotic sway. The principal kingdoms are Foota Toro, Damel, Barra, Boor Salum, Foota Jallon, and Soolimana. Sata

doo, Konkodoo, Dindikoo, Brooko, Fooladoo, and Kajaaga, are little states, extending along the upper course of the Faleme, Ba Fing, Ba Lee, and other streams which combine in forming the Senegal. They are elevated, rocky, and woody, with very picturesque sites, and gold in considerable quantities is found in the sand of their rivers. Lower down, on both sides of the Senegal, is the kingdom of Foota Toro, a considerable state, of which the interior has not been explored by Europeans. The king is a zealous Mahometan; and under the pretext of making converts, has endeavoured to subdue the almost pagan Damel or Burb of the Jaloffs; the latter, however, by the strength of his country, and a prudent system of warfare, has been able to baffle his attempts. On the Middle Senegal, the most important personage is the Siratic, who holds his court at Ghiorel, considerably to the north of the river. Nearer the sea is the kingdom of Hoval, governed by a petty prince, called the Great Brak, which, in the language of the country, signifies King of Kings. Along the coast, between the Senegal and the Gambia, is the kingdom of Damel, or Cayor, 150 miles in length, and said to contain 180,000 inhabitants.

The Gambia is bordered on its north side by several flourishing little kingdoms. That immediately on the sea is Barra, said to contain 200,000 inhabitants. The capital is Barra Inding; but the chief place of trade is Jillifrey, where the king has a custom-house to levy the duties on vessels passing up and down. Boor Salum is a still more extensive kingdom, situated on a small river that falls into the Gambia, and containing, it is said, 300,000 inhabitants. Above it occur successively the two smaller kingdoms of Yani and Woolli; in the latter is Pisania, a British factory, from whence Mr. Park commenced both of his journeys into the interior. Along the heads of the Senegal, Gambia, and the Rio Grande lies the important kingdom of Foota Jallon, said to extend about 350 miles in length, and 200 in breadth. It appears to be the most improved of all the states in this part of Africa. The inhabitants are Foulahs. They manufacture cloths of considerable fineness; they work in iron, dug from extensive mines in the country; also in silver, wood, and leather; and they conduct large caravans into the interior, as far even as Timbuctoo and Kashna. Here, where they are the ruling people, they by no means display that pacific character which distinguishes the tribes on the Gambia and Senegal. They can bring into the field 16,000 men, and the king is engaged in almost continual war, for the base purpose of procuring slaves for the European market. Timbo, or Teembo, the capital, is said to contain 7000 souls, and Laby, 5000.

To the south of Foota Jallon is Soolimana, also warlike and considerable. It borders on the Niger in the highest part of its course, though the sources of that Iriver are placed in the hostile territory of the Kissi. The king is at present Mahometan, but the bulk of the nation pagan. They are a gay, thoughtless, stirring race. The two sexes seem to have reversed their occupations; the women till the ground, build the houses, act as barbers and surgeons; while the men tend the dairy, sew, and even wash the clothes.

On the eastern side of the Niger is the country of Sangara, still more extensive and more warlike. South of Soolimana is the Kooranko country, inhabited by Mandingoes, who are as usual gay, thoughtless, hospitable, and enterprising.

Among the European settlements on this coast, that of Senegal, belonging to France, is the most important. Fort St. Louis, the chief settlement, is situated on an island in the river Senegal. The French lost this place during the revolutionary war, but had it restored to them in 1814. The population is supposed to be about 6000. The original hope of the greatness of this colony, was founded on the supposed identity of the Senegal with the Niger, and on a prospect of a communication by it with the inmost regions of Africa. All the efforts founded upon this erroneous theory proved, of course, abortive; and the commercial advantages of the colony have been confined to the gum trade and the gold trade of Bambouk.

The gum, which, from this river and settlement, is called gum Senegal, is the produce of some scattered oases, or verdant spots, that occur in the desert north of the Senegal river; it is collected mostly in the month of December, by the

Moorish tribes, in the vicinity of whom, the Trasarts are the most considerable : by them the gum is bartered to the French, mostly for blue East India cotton cloths, called pieces of Guinea. The amount of gum exported is about 250,000 pounds.

The kingdom of Bambouk, on the upper Senegal, is the next object of commercial importance to the French. It is almost a country of mountains, whence flow numerous streams, nearly all of which roll over golden sands; it is extremely unhealthy for whites. The trade is mostly carried on by the Serra woollies, a petty tribe, very industrious, and devoted to trade. At Goree, a small island near Cape Verde, the French have established the capital of all their African dominions; it is an almost perpendicular rock which is well fortified. The town contains 3000 inhabitants, and is a busy, bustling place, being the entrepôt for all the opposite coast, and the point at which French ships bound for India, stop for refreshments.

The Albreda, at the mouth of the Gambia, is a small French factory. European settlements on the Gambia are entirely English. Bathurst, on St. Mary's island, at the mouth of the river, containing a population of about 2000, is the principal place. Fort James near the mouth of, and Pisania a considerable distance up the river, are small trading posts; at Bathurst the Wesleyan Missionary Society have established a church and several schools, which are in a prosperous state. There is a Mission also at McCarthy's Island, about 180 miles above Bathurst. South of the Gambia, on the San Domingo river and other streams, the Portuguese have a few small posts of little or no importance; they are Cacheo, Bissao, Zinghicor, Farim, and Geba. In this neighborhood is the Rio Grande, originally, as its name implies, supposed to be important, but since discovered to be but a small stream. Opposite to its mouth is the Archipelago of the Bissagos. On one of these, Bulama, the English attempted, in 1793, to establish a colony, but the unhealthiness of the climate, and the hostility of the natives, obliged them to abandon it.

SIERRA LEONE.

THE British colony of Sierra Leone, founded with a view of introducing and extending civilization and Christianity in Africa, is the next most important object on this coast. It was founded in 1787 by a company associated for that purpose, and who have since surrendered their charter to government. The bulk of the inhabitants are liberated slaves, taken by the British cruisers from the various slaveships, captured by them since the slave trade was declared illegal. With a view to initiate these people into the habits of civilized life, the church missionary society have introduced teachers and schools and upwards of 2000 children are now instructed on the national system.

The population of Freetown, the capital of the colony and its suburbs, has risen to near 10,000; and eight or ten little towns or villages have been established in its vicinity of these, Regentstown, Gloucester, Wellington, &c. are the principal. The inhabitants of the Colony amounted to 31,460; of these, 84 only are white. It appears certain that Sierra Leone has not realized the expectations of its founders; it has not as yet made any impression upon Africa, and there is no radius of civilization proceeding from it.

It labours under two great disadvantages; the extreme unhealthiness of the climate, which both keeps down its population, and renders it difficult to procure well qualified persons to go out, and also, its unfavourable position; in contact only with a few turbulent tribes, not with any of the great and leading states of the continent. These disadvantages, joined to the death of four successive governors, led government to hesitate as to the expediency of supporting this colony, after £3,000,000 had been expended in its formation. To withdraw it, however, would be attended with many evils, so that an attempt has been made to maintain it on a more limited scale. The European troops have been removed, and their place supplied by negroes, and the annual expenditure has been reduced to about £40,000, of which £17,000 is for liberated Africans.

The space from Sierra Leone to the commencement of the Grain Coast of Guinea, an extent of about two hundred miles, is chiefly marked by the entrance into the sea of the considerable rivers of Sherbro and Mesurado, or St. Paul's. The states here are generally very small, and entirely negro in religion and manners, none of the Mahometan institutions having penetrated so far. The chiefs are in general absolute, and their obsequies are celebrated with human sacrifices, though not to the same frightful extent as in some of the countries to the east.

GUINEA.

GUINEA, extending southward from Senegambia, is the greatest division of Western Africa. It commences at the river Mesurado, or, more properly, the St. Paul's, and extends along the coast to Benin, which it includes, and into the interior from the sea to the mountains; separating the waters of the Niger from the rivers of the seaboard. These are commonly known as the Mountains of Kong: their exact location and range are not yet, however, positively ascertained, but are considered as the western prolongation of the Mountains of the Moon. Guinea is in length about 1500 and in breadth from 350 to 400 miles: the coasts are usually divided by mariners into the Grain, Ivory, Gold, and Slave Coasts,— according to the various objects of trade at the respective places. The political divisions are-Liberia, Ashantee, Dahomey, Benin, and Warree. The interior of this region is almost entirely unknown, with the exception of Ashantee and Dahomey, of which some knowledge has been obtained from the different agents of the British Government, sent thither for diplomatic purposes. The principal rivers are the St. Paul's, Cesters, St. Andrew's, Lahou, Assinee, Bossumpra or St. John's, Volta, and the Niger, with its various estuaries.

The American Colony of Liberia was founded by the American Colonization Society in 1821, for the purpose of facilitating the gradual emancipation of slaves in the United States. The spot selected for the first settlement was a little elevated peninsula, lying between the mouth of the river Mesurado or Montserado and the sea, and terminating in a cape of the same name. After suffering much from the hostility of the natives, with whom it had to sustain several severe conflicts, this little colony has at length obtained tranquillity, and is in an exceedingly prosperous condition. The territory over which its jurisdiction now extends, lies between Cape Mount and Cape Palmas, or between 40 and 70 N. lat., occupying about 225 miles of coast, with a breadth of from twenty to thirty miles inland. The climate is found to be healthful, although emigrants are liable to be attacked by the country fever on their first arrival. Its fertile soil yields rice, cotton, coffee, sugar, indigo, banana, cassada, yams, &c. Camwood is abundant, and the timber is durable and well adapted for building. The natives are the Deys, an indolent and inoffensive people, occupying the coast on both sides of the Mesurado, to the number of about 7000 or 8000; the Bassas, also a peaceful, but more industrious and numerous people farther south, and the Queahs and Condoes in the interior. There are also scattered settlements of Kroomen, whose native country is near Cape Palmas, and who are a laborious and hardy race, acting as pilots, porters, and oarsmen for the trading vessels on the coast; they commonly speak English. The settlement on Cape Mesurado, which received the name of Monrovia, is now a town of about 2000 inhabitants; and Caldwell and Millsburg, higher up the river, have each nearly half that number. Edina, about sixty miles from Monrovia, on the south-west side of the St. John's River; Bassa Cove, which, though lately desolated by the natives, has been reoccupied; and Harper, a neat little village at Cape Palmas, are the other principal settlements. The colonists consist of free blacks, of emancipated slaves, and of recaptured Africans. The whole number is about 5000. The general direction of affairs is in the hands of the Society's agent, but the local interests of the colony are confided to the care of colonial councils and magistrates. Already neat frame or stone buildings have