Houssa is an extensive territory in the most central part of Africa, reaching from the upper course of the Yeou nearly west to the Niger; but its boundaries both on the north and south seem to be yet undecided. It is well watered by the river Quarrama or Zirmie, which, with several tributaries, flows westward to join the Quorra or Niger. On the eastern border, also, it is traversed by the upper course of the Yeou, and on the southern by the Tsadda, which also falls into the Niger. This region derives its social character from the Fellatas, a people said to be similar in appearance to the Foulahs of Western Africa, but of a much more warlike character. Their precise origin is involved in obscurity, and their very name was unknown to Europeans until within a few years. They appear to have been, since the commencement of the present century, the most prominent people in Central Africa; about that period, they conquered the whole of Houssa, Bornou, and several countries on the Niger. The Fellata empire thus founded, has since, however, suffered some dismemberment. The standard of independence was raised in Bornou, by a native of Kanem, who under the title of Sheik el Kanemy, drove out the invaders, and assumed the real sway over the country. In the heart of Houssa, Goober, Zegzeg, and other countries, have thrown off the yoke; yet the Fellatas are still extending their conquests to the westward, and have even passed the Niger into Yarriba. The Fellatas are like the Foulahs, all Mahometans.

Houssa appears to be more elevated, and the climate less sultry, than that either of Bornou or the countries on the Niger; travellers have even occasionally suffered from cold. The face of the country exhibits evident marks of superior cultivation and a superior people. The fields are covered with large crops of wheat, two of which are annually produced, and the grain is stored in large granaries, raised on poles as a security from insects.

Sockatoo, situated nearly at the western extremity of Houssa, is at present the ruling country over that region. The territory appears to be fertile and populous, and its capital the largest city in interior Africa. The houses are built closer than usual, and more regularly laid out in streets. The place is surrounded by a wall between twenty and thirty feet high, with twelve gates, always shut at

sunset.

Kano is the centre of commerce and civilization in interior Africa; yet it is built in a very scattered manner, occupying only about a fourth of the circuit of fifteen miles enclosed by its walls. The inhabited part is divided into two by a large morass, dry during a part of the year, at which period is held a great market, the most crowded and best regulated in Africa. Kano is supposed to contain 30,000 or 40,000 inhabitants.

Kashna, to the north of Kano, is a considerable kingdom, which at no distant period held the supremacy over Houssa. Its walls, like those of Kano, are of immense circuit; but the inhabited part does not amount to above a tenth of the enclosed space. It is still, however, the seat of a considerable trade with the desert, with Timbuctoo, and with caravans coming across the desert by the way of Gadamis and Tuat.

To the south of Sockatoo and Kano is the country of Zegzeg, one of the finest in all Africa. It is covered with plentiful crops and rich pastures, yields particularly good rice, and is beautifully variegated with hill and dale, like the finest parts of England. Dunrora is situated in a country fertile, though rocky; and about half a day's journey from it is Jacoba, described as a large city on the river Shary; while farther to the east, on the same river, is stated to be another great city, Adamowa: but here our knowledge in this direction terminates.

The countries on the lower course of the Niger form an extensive and important part of Central Africa. Being copiously watered, and in many parts liable to temporary inundation, they are endowed with profuse natural fertility, yielding rice and other valuable species of grain in abundance; though, in approaching the sea, the ground becomes swampy, and overgrown with dense forests. The negro population, with its original habits and superstitions, generally fills this region; but the Fellatas are making rapid encroachments; and several of the states have been converted, though in a very superficial manner, to the Moslem faith. The

kings hold an absolute though mild sway; their splendour consists chiefly in the multitude of their wives, who perform all menial functions, and even act as body-guards: the royal exactions are chiefly from travellers and merchants, out of whom they draw as much as possible, both in the way of presents and trade. Yaoorie consists of a very fertile plain, partly overflowed by the Niger, and thus rendered peculiarly fitted for the production of rice. The city of the same name, encompassed by walls of wood, and rudely strengthened with plates of iron, enclose a circuit of twenty or thirty miles; but this space is covered to a great extent with pastures and corn-fields, among which clusters of huts are interspersed. The people, being numerous and brave, have repelled every attempt by the Fellatas to subdue them. The chief of Yaoorie has incurred deep dishonour by the attack on Park, which terminated in the death of that celebrated traveller; and his conduct to Clapperton and Lander was far from praiseworthy. Below Yaoorie the navigation of the Niger is obstructed by formidable cataracts, though it is passable during the rainy season for vessels of some magnitude.

The kingdom of Boussa is immediately below Yaoorie. The capital of the same name is a considerable town, situated in the midst of a fertile and well cultivated country. The Niger, immediately above and below Boussa, presents a magnificent body of water; in passing that city, it is obstructed by those rocks and straits in which Park was intercepted and perished. Wawa, the capital of a small dependent kingdom, situated in a very fertile country, particularly celebrated for producing excellent yams, is supposed to contain 18,000 inhabitants.

Borgoo, west and north-west of Boussa and Wawa, is composed, in a great measure, of rugged mountain tracts, though interspersed with fertile and beautiful valleys. The elevated districts are covered with extensive forests, crowded with wild animals of every description, and infested with numerous bands of robbers. Kiama, the only part of Borgoo visited by English travellers, is inhabited by a people proud, courageous, spirited, delighting in martial exercises, and warm both in their resentments and attachments. The banks of the Niger, below Boussa, are occupied by two great and flourishing kingdoms: Yarriba on the west, and Nyffe, or Nouffie, on the east. The former is an extensive state, and one of the most fruitful countries on the globe; it is well cultivated, and densely peopled. The fields are covered with thriving plantations of Indian corn, millet, yams, and cotton. The loom is busily plied, though its products are not equal to those in the neighbouring country of Nyffe. A range of rugged mountains, from 2000 to 3000 feet high, crosses one part of the country; yet such is the mildness of the climate, that cultivation, and even large towns, are found on their very summit. Eyeo, the capital of Yarriba, is one of the largest cities of Africa, being 15 miles in circumference: there are, however, many fields and open spaces in this wide circuit, and the population can scarcely even be conjectured. Nyffe, on the eastern bank of the Niger, is a very fine country, occupied by the most industrious and improved of all the negro nations. Their cotton cloths are held in the highest estimation; and even the finest of those manufactured in Houssa, are by slaves from Nyffe. Rabba, the capital, is considered, next to Sockatoo, the largest town in possession of this people. The surrounding territory is highly productive, covered with rich crops, and with numerous and fine breeds of horses and cattle. The mats made there are reckoned superior to all others in Africa. Egga, the town of Nyffe which lies farthest down the Niger, extends four miles along its banks, and has numerous boats belonging to it. The population is half Mahometan, half negro. The states which succeed consist of little more than single towns, each governed by its own chief, with little or no mutual dependence, and many of them addicted to fierce and lawless practices. Kacunda, however, composed of a cluster of three large villages, under the absolute sway of a single chief, though independent of Nyffe, contains a peaceable, industrious, and friendly people.

About forty miles below Kacunda, several yet unknown towns intervening, the Niger receives its greatest tributary, the Tsadda, called sometimes the Shary, and which has been traced flowing by Jacoba on the south of Houssa; but its origin and early course are unknown. At the junction, it is little inferior to the main stream, and navigated by numerous boats. Funda, reported the greatest emporium

of this part of Africa, is about three days' sail up the Tsadda. At the junction of the two rivers is a commercial town, of very considerable magnitude, named Cuttum Currafe.

Towns of importance continue to occur in the course of the Niger downwards. Bocqua, about 80 miles below Kacunda, is the seat of a very large market, much frequented: it is followed by Abbazaca and Dammagoo. Kirre, a large market town, is about fifty miles below Bocqua. Here commences the Delta of the Niger, which, at this place, detaches a branch supposed to flow to Benin Eboe. Seventy miles below Kirree is a large town, commonly called the Eboe country; it forms the great mart from which the ports on the coast are supplied with slaves and palm oil.

To complete the picture of Central Africa, it remains to mention the countries on the upper Niger, as celebrated as any of those now enumerated. For 400 or 500 miles above Yaoorie, indeed, the shores of this great river are almost entirely unknown, as Park, unfortunately, never returned to relate his navigation down to that city. At the end of the above reach, however, occurs the most important city in this part of Africa.

Timbuctoo, or Tombuctoo, the celebrated emporium of the commerce in gold, has always shone in the eyes of Europeans with a dazzling and brilliant lustre. Most of the daring and often tragical expeditions into the interior of the continent had for their object to reach that city. Yet its actual condition, and even magnitude, are still involved in very considerable uncertainty. Major Laing resided there for a considerable time, and made the most diligent inquiries; but the result, in consequence of the catastrophe which terminated his career, never reached the European public. Caillie, the only european who has ever returned from that city, was far from being a careful or an accurate observer. From the few positive notices, however, thus obtained, we may infer that the city is neither so large nor so splendid as rumour represented it.

Timbuctoo, however, being the place where the caravans from Morocco, and most of those from Algiers and Tunis, first touch on the fertile regions of Central Africa, must always possess great commercial importance; and a depôt is found there of the commodities which it affords for exchange with other countries. Gold, and still more slaves, are the staple articles.

Jenné, or Jinnie, is a city second only to Timbuctoo in commercial importance: it is situated, according to Park, on a tributary of the Niger, but according to Caillié, on a branch separated from, and then reuniting to, that river. In Park's time it was subject to Bambarra; but it has since been occupied, with several of the neighbouring territories, by Sego Ahmadou, a Fellata prince. The population is rated probably too low by M. Caillié at 8000 or 10,000.

The kingdom of Bambarra consists of a beautiful and extensive plain, through which the Niger rolls for about 300 miles, from the point where it becomes navigable for large canoes. The territory is fertile and well cultivated, being to a great extent inundated during the rains. Sego, the capital, in the centre of the kingdom, is divided by the Niger into two parts, the communication between which is maintained by ferries, which are under the control of the government. The place is surrounded by high mud walls, the houses are built of clay, but neatly whitewashed, the streets are commodious, and mosques rise in every quarter. The numerous canoes on the river, the crowded population, and the cultivated state of the surrounding country, exhibit altogether a scene of civilization and magnificence scarcely to be expected in the centre of Africa. Park estimated the population at about 30,000. Sansanding is a great commercial town, higher up the Niger, supposed to contain 10,000 people. Its market was the best arranged and supplied that Park saw in Africa. Baminakoo, where the Niger first becomes navigable for large canoes; Maraboo, a great market for salt; Samee, and Silla, near the eastern frontier; are all considerable towns on the Niger.

North of Bambarra are the kingdoms of Massina and Beroo, of which the former is inhabited by the Foulahs, and the latter is famous for its trade in salt. The capital is Walet, said to be larger than Timbuctoo. North-west from Bambarra is Kaarta, a somewhat extensive kingdom, with a sandy and but moderately

fertile soil. The capital is Kemmoo. Kasson, west of Kaarta, is a small but fertile country, now mostly subject to Kaarta. Manding, the original country of the Mandingoes, adjoining Bambarra on the west, is a mountainous, and rather sterile region, in which gold is found to some extent in the sand of the streams and rivers. Bouré, Kankan, Wassela, &c., are countries situated on the head waters of the Niger: of these Bouré abounds in gold; Kankan is famous for the great market held at its chief town, at which not only gold and all the products of this part of the world, but European goods in great variety, arms, powder, &c., are exhibited for sale. Wassela is a rich territory, inhabited by an industrious and hospitable people.

AFRICAN ISLANDS.

AFRICA is begirt, at certain distances, with numerous islands, some single, but a considerable number arranged in groups; many of these are in the Western or Atlantic, and others in the Indian Ocean.

The Azores, or Western Islands, belonging politically to Portugal, are situated between the 37th and 40th degrees of north latitude, and the 25th and 32d of west longitude. They are nine in number: St. Michael and St. Mary, closely adjoining each other; Terceira, Fayal, Pico, Graciosa, and St. George, nearly a group by themselves; Corvo and Flores, considerably to the westward. These islands bear evident marks of having been produced by the action of subterraneous fire, the symptoms of which are still visible, though no volcano is at present burning. The internal heat, however, manifests itself by very striking phenomena. Such, on the island of St. Michael, are the termas, or warm baths, the springs supplying which are so hot as often to burn the hand which touches them. Elsewhere the caldeiras, or boiling springs, rise in columns, not exceeding twelve feet high, but of various diameters, and the burning vapours are formed into clouds, which exhibit a variety of fantastic figures and brilliant tints.

Amid these turbulent elements, the soil is extremely fertile, yielding in the plains abundance of grain, while even from the crevices of the volcanic rocks grow the delicate oranges for which St. Michael is celebrated, and the vines, yielding a wine that resembles without equalling Madeira, which clothe the steep sides of the mountain of Pico. These, with grain, afford materials of an export trade, in exchange for European fabrics and colonial produce. The population is vaguely estimated at between 200,000 and 300,000.

Though St. Michael is the largest island, being above 100 miles in length, and is also the most fertile, its capital, Ponte Delgada, is not the seat of the general government. This distinction is enjoyed by Angra, in Terceira, in consequence of its comparatively safe harbour. By its good harbour it likewise obtains the exportation of the wine of Pico, which is known by the name of Fayal. The amount, in good years, has been stated at 8000 or 10,000 pipes.

Madeira, also belonging to Portugal, in about 32° north latitude, is a beautiful and fertile island. It was first distinguished for producing the best sugar known; but, after the rivalry of the West Indies rendered this culture no longer profitable, the islanders applied themselves to wine, which was soon raised to high perfection. The growth of the island is about 20,000 pipes, of which a considerable quantity is sent to America and the East and West Indies; a voyage to tropical climates improving its quality. The very best, however, called "London particular," is imported direct to that capital. The wine trade of Madeira has latterly somewhat declined, in consequence of which the planting of coffee has become general, and with such success that already the berry has become an article of export. Funchal, the capital, is almost an English town, nearly all the opulent inhabitants being merchants of that nation employed in the wine trade, while the Portuguese are generally very poor. Madeira has adjacent to it Porto Santo, a small high island with a good roadstead; and the two Desertas answering to their

name.

The Canaries, belonging to Spain, are among the most celebrated and beautiful

groups of small islands in the world. They lie about the 28th degree of north latitude, and between the 13th and 18th of west longitude. There are seven principal islands, having a land area of about 3250 square miles, and containing a population of 200,000 souls. These are Teneriffe, Grand Canary, Palma, Lanzarota, Fortaventura, Gomera, and Ferro. These islands consist of mountains which rise abruptly from the shore, and shoot to an amazing height. The Peak of Teneriffe, the great landmark to mariners through the Atlantic, is 12,000 feet high.

The soil in these islands displays much of that luxuriant fertility which distinguishes tropical countries, when profusely watered, like this, by the streams from the high mountains and the vapour from the ocean; yet their western sides are parched by arid and pestilential breezes from the African desert, the streams are often absorbed in the porous lava, or rush down in torrents which would sweep away the earth, were not walls formed to retain it. The principal exportable produce is that afforded by the vines, which grow on the lower declivities of the peak, and yield a wine which, though inferior to Madeira, has, from its cheapness, come into considerable use. The export has been estimated at 8000 or 9000 pipes. There is also some export of brandy, soda, and archil. The chief seat of this trade is Santa Cruz, in Teneriffe, which enjoys the advantage of an excellent roadstead. The place is, however, intensely hot, and the natives not engaged in business prefer the residence of Laguna, 2000 feet above the sea, which enjoys a delightful coolness. Grand Canary is more uniformly fertile than Teneriffe, supplying the other islands with grain, and yielding a little of the fine wine called sack. Las Palmas, its chief town, is the ecclesiastical capital; but the seat of government is at Santa Cruz. Ferro, small, arid, and rocky, was once supposed to form the most westerly point of the Old World, and has often been used by geographers as the first meridian. The Canarians are a sober, active, industrious people, who have migrated to all the Spanish dominions in America and the Indies, and form the most useful part of the population.

The Cape Verd Islands, about eighty miles from Cape Verd, in 16° to 17° north lat., are ten in number, three of which are large, St. Jago, St. Antonio, and St. Nicholas; the rest small, Mayo, Bonavista, Sal, St. Vincent, St. Lucia, Brava, and Fogo. The large islands rise in the interior into high mountains, and Fogo (fire) contains a very active volcano. In general, however, the surface is arid, rocky, and much less productive than the Canaries. Long droughts sometimes prevail, and reduce the inhabitants to the greatest distress. Out of a population of 88,000, one-fourth are said to have died of famine in 1831. The chief growth is cotton: a very fine breed of mules and asses is reared, many of which are sent to the West Indies. Goats, poultry, and turtle abound. Salt is formed in large quantities by natural evaporation, particularly in Mayo, where there is an extensive pond, into which the sea is received at high water, and the salt completely formed before next tide. The Portuguese, since the first discovery, have claimed the sovereignty, and maintain a governor-general, who resides at Porto Praya.

Several islands lie in the Gulf of Benin. They are, Fernando Po, a fine high large island, lately occupied only by a lawless race, composed of slaves or malefactors escaped from the neighbouring coast. The British government, however, upon the disappointment experienced in regard to Sierra Leone, formed, in 1827, a settlement at this island, the mountainous and picturesque aspect of which afforded hopes of a healthy station; but these have been completely disappointed. Of thirty European settlers taken out, nineteen died. Hopes have been held out, that by a change in the situation of the town, this evil might be greatly mitigated, and Fernando Po would then acquire a double importance, from its vicinity to the mouth of the Niger. Prince's Island is high and wooded; St. Thomas is large and fertile; the petty isle of Annobon is inhabited by a simple native race. These run in a chain to the south-west from the Rio Calebar; and the last three are in nominal subjection to the crown of Portugal.

Ascension is a solitary rock, far out at sea, in lat. 8° 8' north, long. 14° 28' west. It is completely rocky, barren, and long uninhabited; yet from its situation ships often touched there, and letters were even lodged in the crevice of a rock, called "the sailor's post-office." The British have a garrison here. Population, 220.