she told the chief that she would rather die than live to be his slave He said she should have her desire, she should die; but she must wait a little while, as he had some great work doing, and, when it was finished, she should be cooked at the feast, and then eaten. She was accordingly kept and fed for that purpose, and when the time came, a man was sent to kill her. He, however, was afraid, and, while he was contending with his fears, she effected her escape. The chief, contrary to the usual custom, spared the man's life.

Some instances of persons preserved from being buried alive have occurred; but they are few. The fear of disgrace, and the miseries that are entailed upon the old and helpless by their friends and relatives, induces many to undergo willingly this death. Nothing strikes one more, among a crowd of natives, than the absence of the aged.

An anecdote of one of these escapes was told me by a missionary. A Tonga man had made it a constant practice to beat his wife, and, to use his own words, he had "knocked almost all the teeth out of her head, for her disobedience." The poor woman, after one of these beatings, was taken ill, and her Feejee friends wished to express their love by taking her to her own town to bury her. They took her to the grave and put her into it, but she now refused to be buried alive, and effected her escape. Her husband knowing where she was gone, and having some affection for her notwithstanding his ill treatment, went to see her. On his way he met a person from the town, who told him that she was dead and buried; but on his arrival at the place, he found that she had extricated herself from her murderous relatives, and both husband and wife were much relieved and rejoiced at the meeting. In order to free themselves from such customs they both at once embraced Christianity, which is considered as absolving them from this horrid obligation.

Tui Neau's authority extends over the eastern group, but he is subject to Tanoa, and at present pays his tribute to the king of Somusomu, in consequence of an agreement with Tanoa. It is thought, however, that on Tanoa's death, Seru, his son, will insist upon receiving the tribute again, as he is known to be very unfriendly to the king of Somu-somu, and is now desirous of making war upon him.

Tui Neau was presented with various articles, and was told the object of the visit, and the friendly disposition we had towards him. This communication he only noticed by a low grunt. He is disposed to be friendly towards the missionaries, and says he will turn Christian when Tanoa dies. It was observed that the same savage homage was paid him that I have before spoken of in the other islands, similar expressions being used by both men and women.

Two of the officers of the Porpoise remained on shore all night, and had an opportunity of seeing a native dance, in which about one hundred and fifty men and women were engaged. The men and women did not dance together. Their motions were thought to be stiff and inelegant. They kept time to a monotonous chaunt, in which they all occasionally joined.

The whole had a wild and singular effect, as seen by the flickering light of the cocoanut-leaf torches. Many of their movements were highly indecent, and these were much applauded by the natives.

The people of this island seemed to be far from healthy; pulmonary diseases were common, and often fatal, and an unsightly scrofulous affection appeared to be quite prevalent.

The survey of Lakemba gave its length five miles east and west, by three north and south. The reef extends six miles from the island, in an east-northeast direction; in it there are two openings, one on the southeast side, and one opposite to the town on the south or southwest side. Into the latter a vessel of one or two hundred tons may enter; but after getting in, the space is very confined, and it would be necessary to moor head and stern.

This island is the principal location of the people I have heretofore described, under the name of Levukians, as the first settlers of Ambau. They live in a village which is denominated Levuka, and have the character, at Lakemba, of being a wandering, faithless tribe, addicted, occasionally, to piracy. This is not considered the case elsewhere, for the Feejee men, in general, look upon them as a useful class, and through them they carry on the trade between the different islands. It is not surprising that they should bear a bad name among the Tonga men, for I heard that they were the means of checking the depredations of those of that race who now hold possession of the island of Lakemba, and exert a great influence on the southeast islands of this group, which they find essential for their purposes of obtaining war

canoes.

of

Lakemba was found, like the rest of this group, to be of volcanic formation. The soil is similar to that of Vanua, composed of a dark red loam. The island, in point of fertility, will compare with any the others, and exceeds all those of the southeast in size and productiveness. It has rich valleys, or rather ravines, gradually rising and contracting until they reach the hills. Extensive groves of cocoa-nuts cover its shores and low lands, and add much to its beauty.

The Porpoise, having taken Tubou Totai on board, proceeded to the island of Naiau. This is a high island, and rises in perpendicular cliffs from the sea to the height of two hundred and seventy-five feet.

It has only a small reef attached to it on one side, the other side being free. It offers no facilities for the visit of vessels. Naiau contains a population of two hundred inhabitants, who are perched upon inaccessible peaks, in order to protect themselves from depredations.

Tabutha is thirty miles north of Lakemba. It has a remarkable peak, which rises on its northwest end, and is the Cap Island of the charts. A reef surrounds it, in which there are two boat-entrances on the southwest and northwest sides. There are on it about ninety inhabitants: it has no water except from wells. Tubou Totai says that this island belongs to him, he having received it as a present from the king of Lakemba. There are two small reefs, called Mamouko, to the southwest of it, which can be closely approached, and have a passage between them. They are three miles from the island, southsouthwest (true).

To the eastward of Tabutha lies the small island of Aro. This is a very pretty island, and has three reefs in its neighbourhood,-one lying northeast seven miles; another, east half south two and a half miles; the third, south half east two and a half miles. This small island is only inhabited during the turtle season, which begins in October and ends in February.

Chichia lies twenty miles to the northwest of Naiau. It is nearly circular, is three miles in diameter, and a shore-reef extends around it, with no opening but for canoes. Some of its points are three hundred feet high. It is in places thickly wooded, and has about three hundred inhabitants. There is a small reef to the southwest, with a passage between it and the island. The soil is rich, and every thing is produced in abundance. Extensive cocoa-nut groves clothe its low points.

Mango is another small island, eighteen miles to the north-northeast of Chichia. It is remarkable for an open space near its centre, which appears as if it had been artificially cleared. It is surrounded by a reef, which has a break on the northwest side, but affords no protection for vessels. The southern part of the reef extends off about a mile, and has two small islets in it. It affords no shelter, and there is no water except from wells. Its shape is an oval, whose longest diameter is three miles, and its shortest two. There is a distinct reef, which lies northwest-by-north, four miles from it.

Vekai, Katafanga, and the reef of Malevuvu, all three lying north of Tabutha, were next examined.

Vekai is six miles from Tabutha. It is a low islet, with an extensive reef lying on its northwest side, and is resorted to during the turtle

season.

Katafanga is also a small isle, inhabited only during the turtle season. Its reef is much more extensive, being four and a half miles from east to west, and has a small opening, which would admit a vessel drawing ten feet of water, were it not impeded by some dangerous coral knolls. There are huts on its northeast point, and abundance of sugar-cane, fruit, and vegetables, may be procured. Both the last named islands are volcanic, and specimens of lava were obtained from them. The latter island is one hundred and fifty feet in height.

The reef of Malevuvu is two and a half miles long, and is awash, with the sea breaking over it. It is seven miles north-by-east from Katafanga. Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold having understood from Tubou that the reef around Munia enclosed, besides that island, six others, and that there was a wide and safe passage through the reef, determined, on coming up with it, to enter, which he did on its southeast side. The islands, seven in number, were all of considerable size: Vanua-valavo, the largest of them, proved to be of a serpentine shape, and fourteen miles in length; each island had its separate reef around its shore, and the whole were enclosed by a very extensive reef, somewhat of the shape of a triangle, whose sides are twenty-four miles in length. The large island is in no place more than two miles wide; it is situated along the western side of the triangle, and contains many fine bays and safe anchorages. The other islands are called Munia Susui, Malatta, Ticumbia, and Osubu. Lieutenant-Commandant Ring gold gave to the cluster the name of the Exploring Isles.

Boats were dropped to survey the entrance, whilst the brig proceeded to her first anchorage under Munia, to which the name of Discovery Harbour was given. This anchorage was a good one, in eight and a half fathoms water, with fine sandy bottom. In the afternoon they landed, and, as they approached, they saw a number of natives holding up a white flag, most of whom soon disappeared, leaving only three or four in sight. The rest, as Tubou said, had concealed themselves behind the rocks for the purpose of attacking the boats. Corodowdow hailed them, on which they all appeared, and confirmed the probability of Tubou's surmise, by being armed with spears, clubs, bows, and arrows. They, however, at once showed the utmost respect for the Ambau chief, crouching and stopping when he walked past them, and walking half bent when in his presence.

The koro, or village, was situated some distance from the beach, upon hills, which were covered with bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, and banana trees. At the koro only two or three persons were found, and these appeared to be much terrified; all the rest, men, women, and children, had fled to the hills and bushes. This fear proved to be 23

VOL. III.

occasioned by the presence of Tubou Totai, who acknowledged that some years ago he had landed on this island and killed sixty of the inhabitants, in consequence of their having destroyed a Tonga canoe, with all on board.

Tubou, in order to remove their apprehensions, made them a speech, assuring them of his friendly disposition. As is usual among the other islands of the group, they applauded at every sentence, by clapping hands, in which Tubou himself joined. Confidence was quickly restored, the natives flocking around, exhibiting the greatest curiosity, examining the clothing, skins, and arms, of our people, and constantly uttering guttural sounds.

The chief of this island (Munia) had but one eye. He appeared somewhat under the influence of fear, but made some presents of bananas and cocoa-nuts, and complained much of his poverty. They returned on board at sunset.

The next day the boats were prepared for surveying. The launch and another boat, under Lieutenants Johnson and Maury, were sent to circumnavigate the large island. Parties were also despatched to get wood and water. Mr. Totten and Dr. Holmes ascended the highest peak of Munia, called Telanicolo, the measurement of which, by sympiesometer, gave one thousand and fifty-four feet above the level of the sea. This peak is composed of volcanic masses, with high, craggy, and overhanging cliffs. The ascent proved difficult, for the path passed over steep hills and along the edges of the rocks, and it was in places so narrow that only one person could pass at a time. A few men might defend the ascent against an army. Upon the summit they found the ruins of a small village; some of the huts were, however, kept in repair, as refuge in times of danger. The view from the top they describe as beautiful, many of the other islands being in sight. The natives who accompanied them, to carry the instruments, &c., behaved well, and were amply rewarded. All the natives yet seen by the Porpoise were exceedingly fond of tobacco, a very small piece of which is an ample reward for a long service. Some thefts were committed from the boats by the natives who assisted in bringing the water, but on speaking to the chief they were quickly returned. He at the same time pointed out the thieves, and requested they might be killed.

The island of Munia contains about eighty inhabitants, and the settlement is on the western side, where water may be obtained in small quantities.

Ticumbia lies five miles to the northeast of Munia. It bears a close resemblance to Munia, but is much smaller; the inhabitants are about seventy in number. This island affords but little water.