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species of iron-wood, (Casuarina,) which is a tree of upright growth, thirty feet high, with a dense green top; its cones are large and terminal. The country, for five or six miles inland, is a range of low barren hills, producing small shrubs, with masses of wild sugar-cane and fern.

Dr. Pickering and Mr. Brackenridge penetrated, in one of their es ursions, to the mountains, in search of the sandalwood, to procure specimens.

They landed at Myandone, the town situated on the stream from which we obtained our water. This stream is small, and water was procured with difficulty, on account of the flow of the tide to a long distance up the creek. The natives, however, obviated this difficulty, in a great measure, by building a dam of mud, which rose above high-water mark, and formed a kind of pool. The water in this, if disturbed, would have been too muddy to take, they, therefore, inserted in the dam several bamboo stems, on closing which the water rose quietly to some height, and upon opening them again, was drawn off quite clear.

A house was built here, where any of the officers or naturalists who might be detained after sunset might sleep in safety.

The chief of Myandone furnished our gentlemen with guides for the mountains, and they set out on their excursion. For the first five miles they passed through barren hills, after which they proceeded up a valley, through which a small stream meandered, passing by plantations of bananas, yams, and taro. As they approached the base of the mountain, they met with groves of trees, among which were some species of Ficus, Bread-fruit, Inocarpus, Erythrina, and several new plants.

At the base of the mountain, they visited a town scattered over several hills on both sides of the stream. At an mbure house their guides entered into a discussion with an old man, seemingly to obtain permission to proceed. The old man received them with hospitality, and cooked some yams for them.

Crowds of natives, men, women, and children, gathered around to see the Papalangis, whom they had never laid eyes on before. The distribution of a few beads and a little tobacco, greatly delighted them.

After the yam breakfast, the old man accompanied them, and was of great service in leading them in the right path, for it appeared that neither of the men whom they had brought as guides was at all icquainted with the route. At the end of two hours, they reached the op of the mountain range, which has an elevation of about two housand fect; but they were unfortunate in being overtaken with rain

so that their view was confined to a short distance. Near the top of the mountain they found two species of cinnamon, very aromatic in favour; they also met with a handsome little palm (Corypha), and obtained specimens of it in flower.

They returned to the town by a different route, through the woods, and concluded that it was better to attempt to reach the boat before sunset, than to remain among these savages. They accordingly set out for this purpose, but were benighted, nearly opposite to the town of Myandone, where they met the chief, who invited them to his town; and, as there was nothing better for them to do, they accepted the invitation. The path led over many mud-holes, which it was dangerous to cross, even in the daytime, as the means of doing so were no more than a single stick, and that stick under water. What was dangerous by day, of course became vastly more difficult at night. The chief directed that they should mount on the shoulders of the natives, and thus astride, they passed over the morass for a distance of upwards of a quarter of a mile, finding their way by the light of the torches, which served to show them the difficulties they were encountering, and the disaster that was to be expected from a false step of their bearers.

On their arrival at the town, they entered the mbure, and became the guests of the chief for the night. He treated them to a supper of small clams and yams, and a corner of the mbure was assigned to them for sleeping

The night was passed under some feeling of insecurity, for their host was the noted rebel chief who had been making war on Tui Mbua, and was not considered very trustworthy.


The next morning, after rewarding the chief with jack-knives ana tobacco, they recrossed the morass in like manner, and reached the VOL. III.


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ship by the boat. As this party had not succeeded in obtaining the specimens of sandalwood they desired, an opportunity offering, through the invitation of old Tui Mbua, who was on board the Vincennes, was taken advantage of, and several officers embarked with him, to spend the night at his village, called Fakosega. They were accompanied by David Whippy, as interpreter. Their principal object was to obtain specimens of sandalwood, which has now become so rare on these islands, and which the old chief promised to find for them.

This district of Tui Mbua is that whence the sandalwood was formerly obtained. Tui Mbua furnished our gentlemen with guides, and they set out. The country was the same as before described on the other route, consisting of barren hills, trees being only found in the valleys, which are of small extent. They were soon shown several specimens of sandalwood, very small, and hardly to be distinguished from the surrounding shrubs. The natives call it assi. Proceeding on to the top of the hill, several solitary trees of sandalwood were met with, the largest of which were no more than twenty feet high, and had a stem only six inches in diameter at the height of eighteen inches from the base. The general habit of the tree is represented as of slender form, and a growth very much resembling that of a peach-tree. It is found to be affected by a kind of dry-rot, which, however, does not lessen the fragrance of the wood. They procured specimens both in fruit and flower; the latter is not conspicuous. The fresh wood is destitute of odour, and therefore cannot be recognised by this property. The district where this wood is found is exceedingly small, being no more than fifteen miles square. A line running north from Lecumba Point, and including Anganga Island, will comprise the whole of it. This district forms the most western point of the island of Vanua-levu. Its soil is rocky and barren, but not more so than that of several other districts that have been visited.

Mr. Brackenridge remarks, that they met with a species of Rhus, which grows in the form of an upright tree. Nothing could induce the natives to ascend to obtain specimens of it, for it is considered by them as poisonous; and they made signs that it would injure their hands and feet, or any part of the body that came in contact with it. Our naturalists, however, obtained specimens of the tree by breaking down a branch with a hooked stick.

Tui Mbua's town is situated on an almost inaccessible peak, six hundred feet above the level of the sea. It contains about four hun. dred inhabitants including men, women, and children. They are all now miserably poor, and have little to eat, having recourse to the

fruit of the mangrove (Rhizophora), which the women were seen gathering. Tui Mbua had forewarned his guests that he had no luxuries to give them.

They had a comfortable mbure, however, to sleep in, and supped upon yams. The labour of transporting all the water and provisions gup the ascent falls upon the women.

In the town of Tui Mbua, were the two Feejee chiefs of Sualib Bay whom I had freed; they proved to be the friends and allies of the old king, and at their request they were landed to pay him a visit, and thence to proceed homeward.

In the evening they were entertained with a Feejee dance by the men, which consisted in movements of the body, arms, legs, and head, not ungraceful. The dancers had evidently practised a great deal together. The glowing light of the bamboo torches on their dark skins and fine forms, decked in their pure white turbans (sala), with the crowd gathered around, produced a fine effect. A few girls were also induced to dance, but they did not do so well, for want of practice.

With the assistance of David Whippy, they got rid of the old king almost by force, as he was inclined to pass the night in their company. Tui Mbua has always been a great friend of the whites. They returned on board the next day.

At Lecumba Point, where many of the natives were frequently gathered, the ambati or priest was induced to shake as if the spirit was in him. He always, however, declined doing so unless they were alone, for fear he should lose his influence with his countrymen. His first operation was to put every muscle in full tension, clenching his fists and placing his feet apart. This done, he would begin to shake with great violence, the muscles of his legs becoming so much excited, that involuntary motions continued for some time afterwards. A small present was usually made him for these exertions.

Captain Hudson, as has been seen, had proceeded with the Peacock to Muthuata. As soon as he arrived at that place, he went on shore to visit the king, and demanded of him Hugh M’Bride, a deserter from one of the surveying boats. He was the second man who had attempted to leave the squadron for the purpose of taking up his abode among these cannibals.

The king disclaimed all knowledge of his desertion, and promised to have him sought after. The king's house was found surrounded by his warriors and people, armed, who all appeared much agitated and alarmed at the second visit of the ship. Every thing was, however, done that could be to quiet his fears, but not with much success.

Captain Hudson having furnished his first lieutenant with written instructions, returned to bring the Vincennes round from Mbua Bay.

Hugh M’Bride was afterwards found at Muthuata, secreted by natives, and strong suspicion existed that it was with the full knowledge and concurrence of the king. Many surveying signals were also stolen, even in sight of the ship, and in broad daylight. It therefore became necessary to put a stop to these thefts, which not only impeded the operations, but could not be overlooked without the risk of further depredations. Captain Hudson visited the king, and told him distinctly that the articles must be returned in a day, or he must take the consequences. The king made many promises, and kept them better than those he had before given, for he set about effecting the recovery of the signals in earnest.

On the 26th July, the king's son Ko-Mbiti, returned from Somu-somu in state, without bringing any guests to the famous fête they were preparing. Instead of them he presented his father with a large whale's tooth, and a request that he would take part in the war about to take place against Seru, who headed the Ambau warriors. The son, it was understood, favoured the Somu-somuans, but the old king more prudently desired to observe a strict neutrality.

The observations at Lecumba Point having been finished, and Captain Hudson having returned from Muthuata to take the Vincennes, every thing was embarked in her, and on the 29th they got under way for Muthuata. In the evening they anchored in Naloa Bay, where the next morning they took in a quantity of wood, and visited the town of Tavea on the island of that name. Here Mr. Drayton witnessed the making of pottery by women. The clay used is of a red colour, and is obtained in quantities on the island, and the vessels are formed by the women with the same instruments that are described in another place. Some of their work appeared as round as though it had been turned in a lathe. The pots are dried in the open air, and for baking or burning them, they use a common wood fire, without any oven. The vessels are of various shapes, some of which are quite pretty. The tenacity of the clay is such, that even without baking the pottery is quite strong.

The islands from Naloa Bay to Muthuata, are for the most part low, and covered with tiri (mangrove) bushes. There is one within a few miles of Muthuata, called Nucumbati, which is remarkable in shape, as well as picturesque in appearance. On this is a deserted town of about sixty houses, situated in a beautiful grove of cocoa-nut trees. The account obtained of it from our interpreter was, that its chief and

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