in a deep precipice of eleven hundred feet, called the Pali. Here the trade-wind rushes through, between the two high peaks, fifteen hundred feet above, with violence, while their tops condense the clouds, whose waters are descending constantly in small silver rills, that leap from rock to rock on all sides, unite in the middle of the valley, and form a large brook, which is again distributed by the natives, to give fertility and luxuriance to part of the plain below.

The beauty of the valley, when passing into it, is at times striking, from the effect of the light and shade produced by the clouds, which are occasionally seen lowering on the mountain peaks, and are, as it were, held in check by them. The clouds now and then escape and pass above the peaks, and again burst by with renewed and accumulated strength, sweeping through the valley, and carrying fertilizing showers over it, with every variety of rainbow, while the whole western sky is one glorious sunlight. The sunbeams now and then gain possession of the valley, thus causing a constant and rapid succession of showers and sunshine.

The ride to the Pali is a most agreeable one. There is a tolerable horse-path three-fourths of the way; the remainder would be considered impracticable for horses by those unaccustomed to their performances in a mountain country; but, however frightful the road may appear, I would recommend all those who attempt it, to keep to the horse's back, and trust to his getting them over the steep knolls, and through the miry places. On reaching the Pali, beware of losing not only your hat, but yourself; for when the trade-wind is blowing strong, it is impossible to stand with safety. The view of the plain beneath, the ocean, and the long line of perpendicular cliffs, will amply repay the labour. The Pali may be descended: for this purpose there are steps cut in the rock, and an iron rod to assist in accomplishing the descent in safety. The path leads to the village of Kanehoe, but is little frequented.

The house which the kindness of Governor Kekuanaoa had placed at my disposal, was a double one, of two stories, with piazzas in front, and a wing on one side: it afforded sufficient accommodations for all the duties connected with the surveys, and I took advantage of the opportunity to revise and complete all the charts we had constructed up to this time. The vessels were undergoing the necessary repairs: the officers who were not required on board, were therefore detailed for these duties, reporting to me daily at the observatory, at nine o'clock A. M., where they were employed until 4 P. M.; others were permanently employed in the observatory duties, magnetic and pen

dulum observations, and some in the local surveys of the islands; so that, although our stay at Honolulu had the name of relaxation, I found it myself one of the busiest parts of the cruise.

The house, though convenient, was seldom occupied by its owner : they invariably prefer the grass-houses, which are more convenient for their mode of life, and better adapted to the climate; and if they could be preserved in the state they are when first built, they would be exceedingly pleasant residences.

The chiefs have much ambition to own an European house, which are built of coral blocks, taken from the reefs to the westward of the town of this there appears to be an inexhaustible supply. It is found in layers of from one to two feet in thickness, and by cutting through them, a block of almost any dimensions may be obtained. I understood a foreigner had obtained a lease of this profitable source of revenue from the government.

In

my first interview with the king, he spoke of the decrease of the depth of water in the harbour, imagining the quarrying of the coral had been in part the cause of it, and asked me to direct my attention to it, and to point out a remedy if possible to obviate it; for they were very desirous to preserve the harbour as it was, free from obstructions. Within these last fifteen years much alteration has taken place, by the deposit of mud, which will in time close it entirely up, if not removed or prevented. The stream coming down the Nuuanu valley, though small, makes a considerable deposit; this, with the wash from the town, and the dust and earth that are daily in motion from the violence of the wind, though imperceptible, will in time produce effect: much of this may be obviated by the construction of a wall on the reef, near the inner edge of it, which would intercept a great part of it, and prevent the deposit from taking place in the deep water, which it now does. It will be very easy to direct the discharge of the Nuuanu in a direction towards the sea, by damming, and this could be done at very little expense.

The naturalists were not idle, but usefully employed in rambling over the islands, so that we had every opportunity of becoming acquainted with the productions, soil, climate, and inhabitants.

We had a good opportunity of observing the advance they were making in civilization under the new organization of the government and laws, and the amount of good the missionaries had done; of which I shall speak hereafter.

From my long stay at the different islands of this group, many opportunities were afforded me of examining their establishments in

detail. I therefore feel that I may be permitted to give an opinion without the imputation of having been over hasty, or prejudiced in forming it. Such haste or prejudice may with some reason be imputed to those who not unfrequently imbibe their notions of these islanders and their teachers from a few days' sojourn, and who have had inter course only with those opposed to both the government and missionaries. I am not at all surprised that this should be the case with those who only visit Honolulu.

That great licentiousness and vice exist there, is not to be denied ; but to throw the blame of them on the missionaries, seems to me to be the height of injustice. I am well satisfied that the state of things would be much worse were it not for their watchfulness and exertions. The lower class of foreigners who are settled in these islands, are a serious bar to improvement in morals, being for the most part keepers of low taverns, sailors' boarding-houses, and grog-shops. Every inducement that can allure sailors from their duty, and destroy their usefulness, is held out to them here. Such men must be obnoxious in any community, and that they are not able to make more disturbance than they do, supported as they are by those who ought to know better, is, I am satisfied, mainly owing to the attention and energy of the governor, and the watchfulness of the members of the mission over the natives.

I do not desire to be understood to express the opinion that the course pursued by the missionaries is in all respects calculated to produce the most happy effects. I am, however, well satisfied that they are actuated by a sincere desire to promote the welfare and improvement of the community in which they live; I therefore feel it my duty to bear ample testimony to their daily and hourly exertions to advance the moral and religious interests of the native population, not only by precept, but by example; and to their untiring efforts, zeal, and devotion, to the sacred cause in which they are engaged.

I shall hereafter have occasion to speak of the institutions of which they are the authors, and of their connexion with the government; in short, of their secular avocations. I have myself had intercourse both with the missionaries and those who are their opponents; and it gave me pleasure to perceive that, with but three or four exceptions, there was a degree of moderation exhibited by both parties, that bespoke the dawn of a good feeling towards each other, to which they had long been strangers.

In consequence of this new state of things, I was not called upon to listen to the vituper on and abuse of the missionaries that I had been

prepared to hear. A warfare was, however, kept up between the individuals belonging to the rival nations of England and the United States, which afforded ample room for the tongue of scandal to indulge itself. The missionaries wisely abstained from all connexion with either party; and the governor, with much energy and decorum, sustained with impartiality the supremacy of the laws.