Judging from the number of places in which these atonements were made, many victims have suffered in this way. The path we followed over the mountain was the high-road to the interior towns, and the inhabitants of these mountains have the character among the cannibal population of the coast, of being very savage! Just before noon, we reached the top of Andulong, and succeeded in getting the meridian altitude. The scene that now presented itself was truly beautiful; the picturesque valleys of the island of Ovolau lay in full view beneath us, exhibiting here and there spots of cultivated ground, with groves of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit; the towns perched upon apparently inaccessible spots, overlooking their small domains; the several peaks rising around, all cut and broken in the most grotesque forms, only one of which, that of Dille-ovolau, overtopped the one on which we were, being about two hundred feet higher; around us in the distance, we had the various islands of the group, and the fantastic needle-shaped peaks of Vanua-levu were distinctly seen, although at the distance of sixty miles. The detached reefs could be traced for miles, by the water breaking on them, until they were lost in the haze. The squadron lay quietly beneath us, and every danger that could in any way affect the safety of a vessel was as distinctly marked as though it had been already put upon our charts. Each officer was now directed to observe a series of angles between all the points, peaks, and islands, and to enter the names of them: these were obtained through the interpreters. The barometer was set up, and observations made. The signal was now given, upon which guns were fired from the vessel, while we noted the time that elapsed between seeing the flash and hearing the sound. The angles of depression were also taken of all objects. The results of these different methods gave the altitude of Andulong two thousand and seventy feet.

We remained on the summit until near sunset, and obtained much knowledge relative to the situation of all the islands and reefs that lay around us, which I found of much service in the progress of our work.

During our stay on Andulong, a native came up, who appeared to be under the influence of great fear; he reported that one of the officers had fallen down, and that something was the matter with him. On being asked why he left him, he told us that the chief had said G-d d-n, and that he was afraid that he would kill him. Lieutenant Emmons went down with him, and after a short descent, he found Mr. Eld lying quite exhausted near the path, and it was with difficulty he was enabled to reach the town.

The descent proved more toilsome and dangerous than the ascent;

the slipperiness of the path frequently brought us in contact with sharp rocks. I have seldom witnessed a party so helpless as ours appeared, in comparison with the natives and white residents, who ran over the rocks like goats. Darkness overtook us before we reached the town; many of the natives, however, brought torches of dried cocoanut-leaves to light us on our way, and we reached our respective ships without accident, though much fatigued. Many new specimens were added to our collections, and I believe all felt gratified in having had an opportunity of viewing from so elevated a point this labyrinth of islands, reefs, and sunken shoals.

The island of Ovolau is eight miles in length, north and south, by seven in breadth, east and west; it is of volcanic formation, and its rocks are composed of a conglomerate or pudding-stone; it is high and rugged throughout. The valleys extend only a short distance into the interior, and leave but little level ground; they are, however, exceedingly fertile, with a deep and rich soil, and are well cultivated. Its harbours are all formed by the reefs, and were it not for these, there would be but few in the group; that of Levuka is safe, has good holding-ground, and is easy of access.

On the 10th, the Flying-Fish was still missing.

Feeling satisfied that Ovolau was the most suitable place for my purpose, I selected a site for my observatory on a projecting insulated point, about thirty feet above the beach, on which was sufficient room to accommodate our tents and houses. I also obtained a few acres of ground from the chief, for the purpose of planting a garden, which was well fenced in, and placed under the direction of our horticulturist, Mr. Brackenridge.

On the 11th, the instruments, tents, &c., were landed and put up. The surprise of the natives was extremely great to find a village or town as they called it, erected in a few hours, and every thing in order: the guards on post to prevent all intrusion most excited their curiosity.

All the necessary arrangements having been made, the launch and first cutter of the Vincennes, under Lieutenants Alden, Knox, Midshipman Henry, and Assistant-Surgeon Whittle, were despatched to survey the north shore of Viti-levu; the launch and first cutter of the Peacock, under Lieutenant Emmons, Passed Midshipman Blunt, and Mr. Dyes, to examine and survey the south shore, visiting Viwa,. Ambau, and Rewa, the missionary posts: Chaplain Elliott was of the latter party, that he might be enabled to gather information from these establishments; pilots, who acted as interpreters, were sent with both. Orders, of which the following is an extract, were issued to the officers

in writing, in relation to the natives, pointing out to them the necessity of watchfulness.

"You will observe the following instructions very particularly, and in no case depart from them, unless it is for the preservation of your party.

"1st. You will avoid landing any where on the main land or islands, unless the latter should be uninhabited.

"2d. Every precaution must be observed in treating with these natives, and no native must be suffered to come alongside or near your boats, without your boarding-nettings being up; all trading must be carried on over the stern of your boat, and your arms and howitzers ready to repel attack.

"3d. You will avoid any disputes with them, and never be off your guard, or free from suspicion; they are in no case to be trusted.

"4th. Your two boats must never be separated at night, but anchored as close together as possible.

"You will always keep the boats within signal distance of each other, separating them in cases of extreme necessity only for a short time."

These and other instructions will be found in Appendix III.

The Flying-Fish now made her appearance, to my great relief. Her delays had been owing to her having run (on the 8th, the night after she parted company with us), through carelessness, on the reef off the island of Nairai, in fine moonlight, with the reef full in view; here she remained some hours, having had a narrow escape from total wreck; she, however, only lost a part of her false keel. Lieutenant Carr, the first-lieutenant of the Vincennes, was immediately put in command of her. The Peacock and Flying-Fish were now ordered to prepare for sea with all despatch.

I must confess I felt great anxiety for the safety of our parties in the boats, and issued the foregoing orders very particularly, in order to avoid all misapprehension, and to leave as little as possible to the discretion of the officers who had charge of the boats. They were all well armed, and the boats were provided with boarding-nettings; for I felt satisfied that any inattention or want of care would inevitably lead to the destruction, if not of the whole, at least some of the party. the accident that had recently occurred to the tender of the Leonidas, showed that the least degree of confidence reposed in the natives was attended with great risk, and that so treacherous a people were not to be trusted under any circumstances. A departure from these instructions, and an undue confidence, resulting from having for a long time escaped the many dangers encountered, was, I regret to say, the cause

of the loss we met with before leaving this group, and taught, when too late, the necessity of obeying strictly the orders of their commanding officer, whether absent or present.

On the 12th, whilst engaged at the observatory, the canoe of Tanoa, the King of Ambau, was discovered rounding the southern point of the island it had a magnificent appearance, with its immense sail of white mats; the pennants streaming from its yard, denoted it at once as belonging to some great chief. It was a fit accompaniment to the magnificent scenery around, and advanced rapidly and gracefully along; it was a single canoe, one hundred feet in length, with an outrigger of large size, ornamented with a great number (two thousand five hundred) of the Cypræa ovula shells; its velocity was almost inconceivable, and every one was struck with the adroitness with which it was managed and landed on the beach.*

Tanoa disembarked, accompanied by his attendants, who are generally Tonga men, forty of whom had the direction and sailing of his canoe. Shortly after landing, he was met by Mr. Vanderford, who had formerly been shipwrecked here, and who had lived under his

I was told that Tanoa frequently amuses himself, when sailing, by running down ca noes, leaving those who belong to them to recover their canoe and property the best way they can.

protection for ten months. The meeting was a curious one: the old chief walked up to him, and stood looking, first on one side and then on the other, without noticing him, and pretending that he did not see him; Mr. Vanderford then walked up to him, clapped him on the back, and called him by name, when they both began laughing heartily. Mr. Vanderford spoke much of the kindness of Tanoa to him during his residence among the people of Ambau: it is true, that he robbed him of every thing but his skin, but then he protected him from the attacks of others. Shortly afterwards a large double canoe arrived, entirely manned by Tonga people, under their two chiefs, Lajika and Tubou Totai, who were both of them, with about five hundred of their followers, paying Tanoa a visit at Ambau; they were the sons of Tubou Ninha, and nephews of the celebrated Finau. Tubou Totai told me that he and his brothers had been residing several years in the Feejees; that they were employed building canoes on some of the eastern islands, and that it generally took them seven years from the time they left Tonga, to finish them and return.

Tanoa took up his abode in the mbure, or council-house, which is the place where all strangers are entertained. Here he seated himself, with his principal attendants about him, when his orator, or prime minister, made a complimentary oration, at the end of which a clap ping of hands took place; to this oration one of the principal towns people replied. This is the usual mode of conducting the ceremony. the guest, the moment he arrives, gives a condensed account of all his doings since they last saw each other, ending with many compliments; to which the host replies in equally flattering terms, wishing him all kinds of happiness and prosperity. This ceremony being over, Tanoa despatched David Whippy on board to inform me of his arrival, when I immediately sent Lieutenant Carr to call upon him and inform him that my boat would be at the shore in the morning for him. Food was then brought by the Levukians, according to their native custom : it consisted of two large baskets containing each a roasted pig, yams, taro, bread-fruit, &c., which were placed before the company; this present was accompanied by another speech, to which the prime minister again replied; then came clapping of hands, and the feast ended with ava drinking.

On the following morning, when the boat landed, the three chiefs were waiting on the beach, and all came on board, the large canoe following the boat; every thing was prepared to give them a most marked reception, excepting the salute. Tanoa was the first to mount the side of the ship, where I was ready to receive him, with the officers at the gangway. When he reached the deck, he was evidently much