The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850University of California Press, 21. 5. 2002 - Počet stran: 313 In 1666, King Charles II felt it necessary to reform Englishmen's dress by introducing a fashion that developed into the three-piece suit. We learn what inspired this royal revolution in masculine attire--and the reasons for its remarkable longevity--in David Kuchta's engaging and handsomely illustrated account. Between 1550 and 1850, Kuchta says, English upper- and middle-class men understood their authority to be based in part upon the display of masculine character: how they presented themselves in public and demonstrated their masculinity helped define their political legitimacy, moral authority, and economic utility. Much has been written about the ways political culture, religion, and economic theory helped shape ideals and practices of masculinity. Kuchta allows us to see the process working in reverse, in that masculine manners and habits of consumption in a patriarchal society contributed actively to people's understanding of what held England together. Kuchta shows not only how the ideology of modern English masculinity was a self-consciously political and public creation but also how such explicitly political decisions and values became internalized, personalized, and naturalized into everyday manners and habits. |
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Strana viii
... Thomas Paine, after an engraving of 1793 by William Sharp, after George Romney, inscribed c. 1880 24. The Young Politician, c. 1772 25. Richard Earlom, John Wilkes, no date 26. Sir George Reed, Samuel Smiles, no date 27. Sir Daniel ...
... Thomas Paine, after an engraving of 1793 by William Sharp, after George Romney, inscribed c. 1880 24. The Young Politician, c. 1772 25. Richard Earlom, John Wilkes, no date 26. Sir George Reed, Samuel Smiles, no date 27. Sir Daniel ...
Strana ix
... Thomas Laqueur and Randolph Starn. My UCSD research assistant Saleem Waraich aided in selecting and analyzing the images for this work. Thanks for help at different stages of this work go to Ben Bertram, Lige Gould, Victoria de Grazia ...
... Thomas Laqueur and Randolph Starn. My UCSD research assistant Saleem Waraich aided in selecting and analyzing the images for this work. Thanks for help at different stages of this work go to Ben Bertram, Lige Gould, Victoria de Grazia ...
Strana 12
... Thomas Mun wrote in 1621 : " by the corruption of men's conditions and manners , many rich coun- tries are exceedingly poor , whilst the people thereof , too much affecting their own enormities , do lay the fault in something else ...
... Thomas Mun wrote in 1621 : " by the corruption of men's conditions and manners , many rich coun- tries are exceedingly poor , whilst the people thereof , too much affecting their own enormities , do lay the fault in something else ...
Strana 24
... Thomas Wilson considered a gentleman's " liberal using of his wealth " as a sign of " fortitude or manhood . " 30 For defenders of aristo- cratic splendor , conspicuous consumption was not the aberrant behav- ior of nobles " usually ...
... Thomas Wilson considered a gentleman's " liberal using of his wealth " as a sign of " fortitude or manhood . " 30 For defenders of aristo- cratic splendor , conspicuous consumption was not the aberrant behav- ior of nobles " usually ...
Strana 42
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Obsah
1 | |
17 | |
3 The SeventeenthCentury Fashion Crisis | 51 |
4 The ThreePiece Suit | 77 |
5 Masculinity in the Age of Chivalry 16881832 | 91 |
6 The Making of the SelfMade Man 17501850 | 133 |
7 Inconspicuous Consumption | 173 |
Notes | 179 |
Bibliography | 253 |
Index | 295 |
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