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CHAPTER II.

The souls of Usurers after their death Lucian affirms to be metempsychosed, or translated into the bodies of asses, and there remain certain years, for poor men to take their pennyworth out of their bones.

PEACHAM ON BLAZONING.

Such guides set over the several congregations will misteach them, by instilling into them puritanical and superstitious principles.

You take a precipice for no leap of danger,
And woo your own destruction.

WALTON.

SHAKSPEARE.

On the morning of the 10th of August, embarking on board a steamer, we left Watkins, Jeffersonville, Seneca Head, or Savoy, as we heard the small village, where we had passed part of the night, severally called. Though commanding a much finer situation than Ithaca in every respect, with a canal running past it which connects the water of lake Erie and Seneca with the Susquehannah River by the Chemung Canal, yet there are not above twenty frame-houses in the settlement, arising from the mistaken policy of the proprietor of the land, who will scarcely sell a rood under a New York price; whereas, if he gave away every other lot for building upon, the increased value of the remaining lots would make him more than an adequate return. The head of Seneca Lake, like that of Cayuga, is black marsh, overgrown with bull-rushes and reeds. Several large streams, with fine water-falls enter it a few miles from the village, of which the Hector, 150 feet in height, and those at the big stream Point 136, are the most worthy of observation.

We considered ourselves fortunate in meeting with a gentlemanly, well-informed person in Captain Rumney, an Englishman, the proprietor of the "Seneca Chief," the only steamer which plies upon the lake. He purchased the right of steam upon these waters for a mere

trifle, from ex-governor Lewis, to whom it had been sold by Fulton, who possessed originally the exclusive right of steam navigation on those inland waters of the State of New York, which did not interfere with the interests of neighbouring States, as the Hudson does with the communication to Vermont and Lower Canada. This charter was granted to Fulton for a term of thirty years, six of which have not yet expired; before the lapse of that time the present possessor may expect to realize a considerable fortune. The profits arise principally from. towing the Erie Canal boats to the different ports in the lake, the traffic on which will be much increased by the Chemung and Crooked Lake Canals, now nearly completed. The charge for towing vessels from one to the other extreme of the lake, a distance of forty miles, is six dollars, and it is performed in a few hours.

At Rapeley's Ferry, a few miles down the lake on the western bank, are the remains of a pier from which the celebrated Jemima Wilkinson proved the faith of her followers. She had collected them for the purpose of seeing her walk across the lake, and addressing them, while one foot touched the water, enquired if they had faith in her, and believed she could reach the opposite shore in safety; for, if they had not faith, the attempt would be vain. Upon receiving the most earnest assurances of their belief that she could pass over, she replied "that there was no occasion then to make a display of her power, as they believed in it ;" and, turning round, re-entered her carriage, and drove off, to the chagrin of thousands of idle spectators, and to the astonishment of her numerous disciples. Captain Rumney, who was acquainted with her during her life-time, described her as a tall, stately, and handsome woman; but of rather a masculine appearance. In her costume she much resembled a clergyman, having her hair brushed back, wearing a surplice and bands, with a Quakers' hat. She was a native of Rhode Island, and during the Revolutionary war formed an attachment with a British officer, who subsequently deserted her. In consequence of this merciless treatment, she suffered a violent attack of fever, and for some days lay in a deep trance,

roused herself from it had she only the wish to do so. It is supposed that at this time she was engaged in laying the deep plot which was so successfully carried into execution on her recovery, by stating that, "Jemima Wilkinson having died, the angels in Heaven had disputed who should enter her body, and visit the earth as the Universal Friend of Mankind, as the Saviour of the World; that she (now calling herself an angel in Jemima's body) had been appointed to fill the body of the deceased, and was come upon earth to preach salvation to all. Many believed in her, and, a sect being soon formed, she quitted Rhode Island, and settled near Crooked Lake, a few miles to the west of Seneca, where her followers, some of whom were men of independent fortune, purchased a large tract of land for her; the deeds of her farm being drawn up in the name of Rachel Mellon, a relative who inherited the estate after Jemima's death, six years since. Upon all her plate, carriage, &c., the letters U. F. (Universal Friend) were inscribed. She observed the Jewish Sabbath, but preached on Sundays to the numerous visitors who were attracted to her house by mere curiosity. She was well versed in the Scriptures, and possessed a remarkably retentive memory; but, in other respects, was an illiterate woman. The creed of her sect is the Metempsychosis; but since her departure the number of believers has considerably diminished, the present head of the Society, Esther Plant, not having sufficient tact to keep them united. In Jemima's life-time, so jealous were her disciples of due respect being paid to her that no answer would be returned to enquiries after "Jemima," but only if designated as the "Friend."

All the points of land in the lake (save one, which has a singular bush formed by the hand of nature into the exact representation of an elephant) are occupied by small villages, which possess excellent harbours, during heavy gales up or down the lake, and have above 20 fathoms of water within 30 feet of the shore. This one exception is the property of Esther, who will not part with it upon any terms. The entrance to the Crooked Lake Canal is at the village of Dresden, a German settlement,

opposite shore in Seneca County is Ovid, situated on a pretty eminence, overlooking the water; also Lodi, Brutus, and various other classically named places. These names, it appears, were bestowed by the Government on townships, distributed among the Revolutionary soldiers, which extended originally over a large tract, from the borders of the lake, almost as far east as Utica The veterans were soon, however, over-reached, and induced to dispose of their lands to some scheming and designing speculators, who re-sold them most advantageously to the present possessors, persons of respectability; and the same land which would not then bring a dollar in the market will now produce from 25 to 40 and even 50 per acre. The soil is a strong loam, and well adapted for wheat. Seneca is, however, an Indian name, although it might naturally be supposed to have the same origin, in imitation of antiquity, as the neighbouring towns of Marathon, Pharsalia, Homer, Virgil, and Cassius. The scenery upon the lake closely resembles that of Cayuga, being unvaried and uninteresting; the water is, however, beautifully clear, the pebbly bottom being visible in a calm day at the depth of 30 feet. Being principally supplied by springs, the ice upon it never becomes so thick as to impede the navigation; during the severe frost of 1831, a thin sheet formed on some parts, but was broken up by the first light breeze which ruffled the water.

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The town of Geneva possesses a beautiful situation upon a rising bank at the northern extremity of the lake, with terraced gardens approaching to the water's edge, and many pretty villas scattered around. About a mile from the town, on the borders of the water, are some extensive glass works, which however have not been worked during the last year, the owner having failed to a great amount, through mismanagement in his farming speculations. When the works were first established, they occupied a narrow space in the midst of a forest where fuel was plentiful; but the ground is now so well cleared about the town that a cord of wood, measuring 4 feet in height and 8 in length, costs a dollar and a quarter, (more than 5s. sterling.) An opinion prevails, from an appearance of

when required. Geneva is altogether a pretty spot, and contains one particularly fine street, in which is the college, a dull, heavy-looking building, with castellated walls and other tasteless appendages. But the private residences equal any in the State.

Proceeding on our journey at mid-day, on the 11th, we passed through a fine rich country, chequered with heavy crops of every grain. The apples appeared perfectly ripe, and the peach-trees were every where loaded with fruit. The soil evidently increased in richness the farther we proceeded to the west, and the cultivated lands about these parts produced from 16 to 25 bushels of wheat per acre, bringing generally a dollar per bushel of 60lb., being always sold by weight. The buildings on the farms are commonly wood, though bricks are nearly as cheap, selling from 3 to 4 dollars per thousand, and from their superiority, both as to safety and durability, will probably become more and more general. The preference given to wooden ones at present arises from the little time required to erect them, and their being habitable immediately. Farming labourers' wages are not so high as one would be led to suppose from the price of other trades' labour; they receive generally about 12 dollars a month and their board. In harvest time however a good cradler will earn a dollar and a half per diem, and be found in provisions also. The threshing machine being generally used in these parts will much tend to lower the price of labour. At one farm by the road side, we saw men employed in carrying wheat from a field into an adjoining barn, where it was immediately transferred to the threshing-machine, and forthwith despatched to market. The poorer class who wish to avoid expense, labour, and loss of time, send their wheat to persons who keep machines for letting out, and who retain a small portion of the grain in lieu of a pecuniary remuneration for their trouble.

The ground in the vicinity of Canandaigua, fifteen miles from Geneva, was kept in a state of cultivation by the Indians, prior to General Sullivan's march through the country fifty years since, when the whole western part of the State of New York was in possession of the

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