About eleven o'clock we set out, and were obliged to cross a mass of clinkers, which our guide had hitherto endeavoured to avoid. When, after two hours' laborious walking, we reached the top or terminal crater, it still continued snowing in squalls, with a keen south-west wind driving in our faces; the ground being covered a foot deep with snow, rendered it more dangerous and irksome to pass over such loose and detached masses.

From intelligence that had been brought me by the gentlemen who had gone before and taken a hasty look into the crater, it was thought that the descent into it would prove easy, and that I might encamp on its floor; but I found after travelling a long distance over the rugged surface, that it was impossible to succeed in making a descent. I was, therefore, compelled to return, and choose the smoothest place for our encampment I could find. It was after four o'clock, and but little time was left for the men to return. As soon as they had pitched the tent, within about sixty feet of the ledge of the crater, using large blocks of lava to confine its cords, I sent them off under charge of the guide to the Flag Station, and remained with my servants only.

By six o'clock I thought that we had made ourselves comfortable for the night, and that the storm had so far moderated that it would not trouble us; but a short hour proved the contrary. Our fire was dispersed, candles blown out, and the tent rocking and flapping as if it would go to pieces, or be torn asunder from its fastenings, and disappear before the howling blast. I now felt that what we had passed through on the previous night was comfort in comparison to this. The tent, however, continued to stand, although it had many holes torn in it, and the ridge-pole had chafed through its top.

It was truly refreshing, after the night we had passed, to see the sun rising clear. It seemed quite small, and was much affected by horizontal refraction, as it appeared above the sea, forming a long horizontal ellipse of two and a half diameters, first enlarging on one side and then on another. After it had reached the height of two diameters above the horizon, the ellipse gradually inclined on the right, and in a few moments afterwards its longer axis became vertical, and it then enlarged at the bottom, somewhat in the form of an egg.

My servants fruitlessly attempted to make a fire; after they had exhausted all their matches without success, we each took turns to ignite a stick after the native fashion, but with no more success ; the nearest approximation to it was plenty of smoke. After making many vain attempts, and having had but little sleep, we took to our blankets again, to await the coming of some of the party from below.

At about eleven o'clock on the 23rd, Drs. Judd and Pickering pulled open the tent, and found us

boxes; many of them had not even reached the Recruiting Station, Ragsdale and his forty goats had not arrived; nor were there any tidings of the party from the ship. The natives hearing of our distresses, and probably exaggerating them, had refused to furnish any thing unless at exorbitant prices. The officers had very properly rejected the whole that was offered; for, although our allowance was small, we trusted that the provisions from the ship would arrive in a day or two at farthest.

After getting a fire lighted, and something to eat, Drs. Judd, Pickering, and myself, set out to reconnoitre the crater for a more suitable place in which to establish the tents; but, after much search, we found none that offered so many facilities as that I had accidentally chosen the first night. Pickering parted from us, and was the first to make

a descent into the crater.

Dr.

Nothing can exceed the devastation of the mountain the whole area of it is one mass of lava, that has at one time been thrown out in a fluid state from its terminal crater. There is no sand or other rock; nothing but lava, on whichever side the eye is turned. To appearance it is of different ages, some of very ancient date, though as yet not decomposed, and the alternations of heat and cold, with rain and snow, seem to have united in vain for its destruction. In some places, it is quite smooth, or similar to what has already been described as the pahoihoi, or "satin stream;" again, it appears in the form of clinkers, which are seldom found in heaps, but lie extended in beds for miles in length, sometimes a mile wide, and occasionally raised from ten to twenty feet above the surface of the surrounding lava.

The place where these clinkers appear to me to have been formed is in the crater itself; there they have been broken up by contending forces, and afterwards ejected with the more fluid lava, and borne upon its surface down the mountain side, until they became arrested in their course by the accumulating weight, or stopped by the excessive friction that the mass had to overcome. In this way the beds, or rather streams, of them might have been formed, which would accumulate for miles, and continue to increase as the crater discharged this description of scoria. What strengthened my opinion in this respect was, that there were, apparently, streams of pahoihoi coming out from underneath the masses of clinkers wherever they had stopped.

This day we received news of the arrival of Lieutenant Alden at the Recruiting Station, with the detachment from the ship; but he had brought no provisions, and none had yet reached the station. This arrival, therefore, instead of supplying our wants rather increased them.

The small transit was brought up this day, and, to add to my vexations, on opening it I found the level broken. I did not stop to inquire by what accident this had happened, but within ten minutes despatched an order to the ship for another, which was distant sixty miles.

In the evening, at 6 P.M., the thermometer stood at 29°, and during the night it fell to 22°.

Christmas-day set in quite stormy, with snow and a gale from the south-west; it was very cold, and the only way we had of keeping warm was to wrap ourselves up with blankets and furs. We had just wood enough to heat a little chocolate.

The small instruments having arrived, I began some of the observations.

While the rest were employed in making our tents as tight as possible, in the one Dr. Judd and myself occupied we discovered a great deposit of moisture, which, on examination, was found to be caused by steam issuing through a crack in the lava. On placing a thermometer in it, it rose to 68°. The tent was forty feet from the edge of the precipice of the crater, and it was not surprising that the steam should find its way up from the fires beneath. As it somewhat annoyed us, we pounded and filled the seam full of broken pieces of lava. This circumstance led to the discovery of a small piece of moss, the only living thing, either animal or vegetable, that was found within six miles distance, or within four thousand feet of the height of the terminal crater. This moss was here nourished by the steam that escaped, which supplied it with warmth and moisture.

This day we made many experiments on the temperature of boiling water: the mean of the observations gave the boiling temperature at 188°, being five hundred and sixty feet to each degree of temperature. At the volcano of Kilauea, I had found it less than five hundred and fifty feet to each degree; while the result of careful experiments at the Sunday Station gave five hundred and fifty-five feet to the degree, and at the Recruiting Station, five hundred and fifty-eight feet.

We also employed ourselves in building a high stone wall around a space large enough to contain the houses and tents, when they should all arrive, having found the necessity of it to protect ourselves from the violent winds. Besides this, each tent was to be surrounded by a separate wall, up as high as the eaves, when completed.

Some of the boxes now began to make their appearance, by the aid of the sailors from the ship; but the provisions had not arrived, and the allowance was again reduced. Most of the men were reported as without shoes, having worn out those they left the ship with; and being barefooted, could not move over the sharp vitreous lava. Many of them were likewise said to be ill with the mountain-sickness. Wood was brought up, and water sent down to the lower station, in exchange.

The wind had been fresh throughout the day; but towards night it began to increase, and by eight o'clock we had another violent gale from the south-west. I do not think I ever passed such a night it blew a perfect hurricane for several hours, causing an incessant slamming, banging, and flapping of the tents, as though hundreds of persons were beating them with clubs. These noises, added to the howling of the wind over the crater, rendered the hours of darkness truly awful.

The two other tents were blown down, but mine stood firm. The men lay under the fallen tents, and were made far more comfortable after the accident. It was impossible to stand against the gusts; and we watched all night, for no one could sleep. The thermometer fell to 17° inside the tent; and water in the bags, under my pillow, froze. About three o'clock, the wind began to

moderate; and at sunrise, we found the temperature at 20°.

From the news received on the 25th, respecting the condition of the men, I determined to see them myself. Dr. Judd and I therefore set out on the morning of the 26th; and when about two miles from the summit, we met Lieutenant Alden, Dr. Pickering, and Mr. Eld, who were coming up to see me, to report the condition of the men. The account they gave of them was, any thing but cheering. On the arrival of Lieutenant Alden, I had directed that he should take an intermediate post between Lieutenant Budd's Recruiting Station and the summit crater, in order that the men belonging to one station might be able to bring up their loads and return before night. This, Lieutenant Alden informed me, he had done: his station was at the height of eleven thousand eight hundred feet.

I now saw more strongly the necessity of my going down, in order to ascertain the exact situation of things, give the men encouragement, and renew the spirit with which they had left the ship, as volunteers. I have always found that sailors are easily encouraged; and by putting a light heart and cheerful face upon the times, they quickly reassume their good spirit; and this I found to be the case in the present instance.

We parted; Lieutenant Alden, Dr. Pickering, and Mr. Eld going up to the terminal crater, while Dr. Judd and myself continued to descend for about four miles. There we found a large number of men in a temporary tent, lying on the panels of the portable houses: some of them were suffering from mountain-sickness, others vomiting; some had attacks of diarrhoea, others had not got over their forced march, and showed me their bleeding feet and shoeless condition; all were looking half-savage, with overgrown beards, dirty and ragged clothes,-so totally different from their trim and neat appearance on board ship, that I was shocked at the change produced in so short a time.

Whilst Dr. Judd administered to the sick, I spoke to those who were well, and succeeded in animating them: they all assured me they were "good pluck," and such I afterwards found them. They set about mending their shoes and making sandals; and by the next day, many were transporting small loads up the mountain side.

At about four o'clock we reached the Recruiting Station, having encountered the boxes and various articles, together with pieces of the portable house, strewed along the way. These had been left by the natives, who deserted en masse when those who had left me the first night came down giving exaggerated accounts of the cold, and other difficulties of the journey. I found Lieutenant Budd quite well, and only a few of the men that were with him sick: they had little or no provisions.

The difference of temperature between the altitude of fourteen thousand and nine thousand feet was very apparent: we could now enjoy sitting in the open air without feeling cold; it was as if we had passed at once from winter to spring. Although, ten days before, I had looked upon this spot as particularly barren, being destitute of vegetation and without water, yet, by comparison with the upper station which we had just left, every thing now appeared comfortable. It had been chosen, as I have said before, for a very remarkable cave,

which had now become our hospital, and which was found dry, warm, and large enough to have accommodated the whole party. All the sick were immediately transported here, and placed under the superintendence of Dr. Judd and his assistants. The men here had procured a large turtle-shell from the natives, and in commemoration of their jaunt, engraved on it all their names, and nailed it to a staff which they erected at the mouth of the cave.

We passed the night with Lieutenant Budd, and although the lava floor of the tent was a rough bed, we seldom enjoyed so sound a sleep.

After arranging every thing relative to the provisions, when they should arrive, and visiting the sick with Dr. Judd, I determined to return to the top. The doctor remained for a day or two, to arrange matters with the natives at the lower station, so as to have our supplies more regularly forwarded. Taking with me James G. Clarke, a seaman, I again started for the summit, heavily laden with provisions. In order to prevent any accident by losing the direction, small flags were placed, as we went up, within sight of each other. reached the observatory at the terminal crater at four o'clock, after a hard walk of six hours. We had now three stations, viz.: the Recruiting Station, Lieutenant Alden's, and the Flag Station, under the sergeant of marines. These made it a more easy task to get the loads up, although it would require a longer time.

We

I found they had built some part of the wall around our encampment on the summit, and being apprehensive that we were again to have bad weather, we all joined to secure the tents more effectually against the anticipated storm.

The cold, this day, to our feelings was intense, although the temperature was not lower than 26°. All our exertions in carrying stone for the wall, and violent exercise, could not keep us warm. Dr. Pickering came in, towards dark, half frozen, having made the circuit of the three craters, which had occupied him nearly all day.

The two chronometers, with the pendulum clock, and some of the pendulum apparatus, had reached the top during the day; and I was rejoiced to find, on examination and comparison with the one I had, that no difference of rate had yet taken place.

On the 28th the day dawned with fine weather, and continued beautifully clear. We were employed in taking observations, and the transit was set firmly, to get the passage of the stars: a wall was also built around the observatory, to protect it from the wind.

On the 29th we were busy putting up the pendulum apparatus. A short time after noon, Dr. Judd again joined us with the joyful news that the party from the ship had arrived, with sixty days' provisions for as many men. I now felt that through our own perseverance we should succeed in obtaining our wishes, for with this supply we could remain sufficiently long to effect my object in visiting the mountain.

At night, on the 30th, we had a visit from the old guide, Keaweehu, the bird-catcher, who gave us the name of the terminal crater, as Moku-aweo-weo, and of that south of it as Pohakuohanalei. According to his statement, Moku-a-weo-weo emitted fire not long after Cook's visit, and again five years since, on the north side.

View from the summit of Mauna Loa. Departure from Pendulum Peak.

We now erected our pendulum-house, and Treble, the armourer, succeeded in rendering the bar of the pendulum-frame as good as it was originally.

The view from the western side of the dome of Mauna Loa was, as we saw it, surpassingly grand. In the distance, the island of Maui emerged from and broke the line of the deep blue horizon, while its lower side was dimmed by a whitish haze, that seemed to unite it to the island of Hawaii. The same haze enveloped the hills of Kohala on our right, and the western extremity of Hawaii. Nearer to us was Hualalai, the third great mountain of Hawaii, up whose sides a compact mass of white fleecy clouds was impelled by the sea-breeze. To our right rose in bold relief Mauna Kea, covered with its snowy mantle; and at our feet was spread out, between the three great mountains, the black plain of lava, overhung by a dusky pall of clouds. All these features were so blended into each other by the mist, as to exhibit a tone of harmony that could hardly be conceived, considering the variety of the forms, characters, and distances of the objects, and which seemed to blend earth, sea, and sky into one. I can never hope again to witness so sublime a scene, to gaze on which excited such feelings that I felt relieved when I turned from it to engage in the duties that had called me to the spot.

It was not without some nervous excitement that I placed my instrument on the highest point of Mauna Loa, within a few feet of its crater, and turned it upon Mauna Kea, to measure the difference in the height of these twin giants of the Pacific.

The very idea of standing on the summit of one of the highest peaks in the midst of this vast ocean, in close proximity to a precipice of profound depth, overhanging an immense crater "outrageous as a sea," with molten rock, would have been exciting even to a strong man; but the sensation was overpowering to one already exhausted by breathing the rarefied air, and toiling over the lava which this huge cauldron must have vomited forth in quantities sufficient to form a dome sixty miles in diameter, and nearly three miles in height.

I was still in doubt which mountain I should find the highest; for although previous measurements had given it in favour of Mauna Kea, yet I had found Mauna Loa about three hundred feet higher than it had been reported to be. Double the zenith angle was soon obtained, and decided it in favour of Mauna Kea, and subsequent calculations gave one cone of it as one hundred and ninety-three feet above the place where stood. Although twin mountains, they are of very different character. Mauna Kea is a vast mound topped with cones, nine in number, whilst Mauna Loa is a smooth dome. On the former the frosts of winter prevail, while the latter has internal fires, and occasionally vomits forth its lava to the very point where the other begins to rise, covering its broad flanks with layers of rocks.

When day broke, on the 13th January, all was bustle on the summit of Mauna Loa. Every one was engaged in taking down and packing up the instruments and equipage, loaded with which the native labourers scampered off. Some of them, indeed, unable to bear the cold any longer, and hoping to obtain loads afterwards, withdrew without burdens.

At nine o'clock, Dr. Judd, myself, and six of the crew of the Vincennes, bade adieu to the walled village we had built. The men showed their delight at quitting this barren and desolate spot by three hearty cheers.

Previous to our departure, I had the words "Pendulum Peak, January, 1841," cut in the lava within our village. J. G. Clarke, one of the seamen belonging to the Vincennes, who made these marks came to me and desired, on the part of the men, that I would allow them to add to it U. S. Ex. Ex., in order that there might be no mistake as to who had been there; to this I readily gave my consent. This was the same man who had been wounded at Malolo, and one of the best and most useful we had with us; in himself he united many employments, as a seaman, drummer, fifer, cook, and stone-cutter; knew a little of physic, sang a good sailor's song, and was withal a poet !

The wind when we set out, blew very strong from the south-west, and flurries of snow were passing by every few minutes. In two hours we reached the Recruiting Station, where we found Lieutenant Alden and many Kanakas on their way up. After a rest of two hours, and obtaining new shoes, we went on and reached the Sunday Station at five o'clock, scarcely able to drag one foot after the other. Here we were soon enveloped in mist, and found the soft and delightful temperature of spring. I cannot venture to describe the effect this produced on us after our three weeks' sojourn on the cold, bleak, and barren summit. I felt for the first time in my life fairly broken down, and

almost past the soothing effects of the loomi-loomi, which the natives at once offered as a relief to me: it may be called a lesser shampooing, and consists, as practised in the Sandwich Islands, of a gentle kneading of the limbs, which has a great tendency to restore the circulation, and relax the muscles and joints. The natives use it for rheumatism, headache, and all kinds of pains. It requires some skill to do it well, and there is the greatest difference in the performance between persons who are practised in it and those who are not. The chiefs | generally have two persons employed at the same time. We soon had a good fire made before our Hawaiian hut; its warmth, together with an excellent supper, made us comfortable, and we were soon asleep on the dried grass.

The next morning, when I awoke, all nature seemed to be alive: the songs of the birds, the cheerful voices of the natives, were delightful; the green foliage gave every thing an air of spring. We were so stiff as scarcely to be able to move, which was all that now remained to remind us of the scenes we had left, and the fatigues we had undergone. When we again set off, it was amusing to see the whole party moving along with their stiff and aching limbs, trying to appear but little fatigued. At twelve o'clock we reached the station where we had abandoned our chairs, and I never was more relieved than when I reached mine, for I was quite unable to walk any further. Here, also, we were met by the natives with fruit; indeed, every step we took seemed to be restoring us to the comforts of life.

By the 15th of February, 1841, I found that my long detention at Hilo would place it out of my power to visit the Marquesas Islands, as I had intended. I therefore determined, before returning to Oahu, to pass a short time at Maui; and as we had exhausted the field of research on Hawaii, I gave orders to Messrs. Pickering, Drayton, and Brackenridge, to take passage thither in a small vessel, in order that they might have a longer time to explore that island. Dr. Judd took passage in the same vessel, to return to Oahu. On the 5th of March, we succeeded in getting to sea.

The longitude of Waiakea Bay was found to be 155° 3' W., latitude 19° 43' 51" N.

The afternoon was fine, and the snowy peak of Mauna Kea was quite distinct by running a base line with the patent log, and obtaining the requisite angles, we made its height thirteen thousand six hundred and fifty-six feet.

At midnight, being nearly up with Kahoolawe, we hove-to, to await daylight, as I wished to look for a shoal that was supposed to exist off its southern end. I passed within two and a half miles of that point, and had nothing less than seven and a quarter fathoms water. By half-past nine we had entirely lost the trades, owing to the high land, and, after being becalmed for an hour, we took a light sea-breeze from the south-west, which slowly brought us to an anchorage in Lahaina Roads, abreast of the king's palace.

The island of Maui is divided into two ovalshaped peninsulas, connected by a low isthmus, only a few feet higher than the beach. Although on a first view the peninsulas resemble each other, on closer examination they are found to be very different. East Maui is the largest of the two, and rises in one unbroken mountain ten thousand feet in elevation, which falls almost perpendicularly

towards the sea. West Maui has many sharp peaks and ridges, which are divided by deep valleys, and which in descending towards the sea open out and form sloping plains on the north and south sides of considerable extent. The highest peak of West Maui was found, by triangulation, to be six thousand one hundred and thirty feet.

An officer was at once despatched to wait upon the king, who signified his desire to see me in the afternoon. I accordingly had the honour of waiting on him, and was received with great warmth and kindness. I paid him a long visit, in which the conversation turned principally on the business of his islands.

The king's palace is built of coral rock, and is only half finished: it already seems to be in a somewhat dilapidated state, and exhibits poverty rather than regal magnificence. I could not but feel that too little attention had been given to his household by those who have had the management of his affairs. I regretted to see that any change, except for the better, had been effected in the native style of accommodation. His present residence is neither calculated to maintain the respect of his subjects, nor to enhance his importance in the eyes of foreigners. I am well aware that improvements are going on near to and connected with the situation his house occupies, but I believe that these could all have been long since finished, had proper exertions been made.

The town of Lahaina is built along the beach for a distance of three-quarters of a mile it is principally composed of grass-houses, situated as near the beach as possible: it has one principal street, with a few others running at right angles. After the king's palace, the fort is the most conspicuous object its form is quadrangular, the longest side facing the sea: it is of little account, however, as a defence, serving chiefly to confine unruly subjects and sailors in. The area within is about one acre, and the walls are twenty feet high. By the observations which I made here, it is situated in longitude 156° 41′ W., latitude 20° 51′ 50′′ N.

I had the pleasure of receiving his majesty on board, with suitable honours, accompanied by his suite. They made a very respectable appearance; and although what I had already seen of the king had greatly prepossessed me in his favour, a visit which I paid him before my departure tended greatly to increase the interest I felt for his welfare. Instead of being received in the dilapidated and half-finished palace, I was ushered over a small causeway to a short distance behind it, into his private apartments, and introduced to his wife, who had been very unwell. She is not acknowledged as queen. She is the daughter of an inferior chief on the island of Hawaii, and the prettiest woman on the island. The king, it is believed, married her from affection, and against the wishes of his chiefs, after they had prohibited his marriage with his sister Nahienaena. In order to prevent any dispute in the succession to the throne, it was formerly deemed necessary that the king should take all the women of the highest rank as his wives, and all the children born of them were declared and considered as his heirs.

The present king is said to be the natural son of Kamehameha I., and became, from political causes, heir to the throne.

After crossing the causeway we reached a small

Private apartments of the king. Appearance of the queen.

island: on this was a grass-house of moderate dimensions, surrounded by hibiscus trees, which grow quite low, and made a bower almost impervious to the sun's rays. At the entrance of the house I was met by his majesty, dressed in a roundabout of blue cloth, and white pantaloons. He led the way into the bower, in the centre of which his wife was lying in a clean white hammock, suspended between the trees. Every thing about her was pleasant-looking, betokening care and attention to her comfort, and a degree of refinement I little expected to see. Although unwell, she showed many marks of beauty, and I was much struck with her appearance.

The king told me these were their private apartments, where they could remain undisturbed and free from intrusion. They passed most of their time together, and he pointed out a small hut of ti-leaves that he had constructed for her, in which she had been lying on new-mown grass. The king pointed out the improvements he had in contemplation, but complained that he had not money to carry them on. Although his income is very considerable, in tapas and native produce, and would have constituted great wealth in former times, yet from the depreciation in the value of these articles, it is now of little value. He has so many hangerson, that it takes a large amount to supply, maintain, and clothe them, even in the ordinary garments of the island. These circumstances leave the king quite as poor as any of his subjects.

The little domestic scene I had witnessed gave me great pleasure, the more so from being quite unexpected; and I found afterwards that very few are ever admitted to this sanctum sanctorum. take pleasure in mentioning it, as I had not before given his majesty credit for the domestic virtues, which I am now satisfied he possesses to a great degree, both from the tenor of his conversation and the pleasing picture he exhibited in the last interview I had with him.

His wife is much fairer than the natives usually, and she has not so coarse and disproportionate a figure as seems characteristic of the females of distinction in these islands. Her features, however, were decidedly of the native character. The tone of voice was pleasing and ladylike.

Wishing to inspect the female seminary of Wailuku, which I had heard much spoken of, I went over to it, in company with Mr. Drayton. One of the chiefs was obliging enough to furnish me with a horse for the occasion.

The seminary of Wailuku consists of an extensive range of coral and adobe buildings, beautifully situated on an inclined plane, with high and massive precipices behind, in a flourishing village, which shows more of systematic improvement and organized exertion than any place I have met with in the Hawaiian islands. The fields, also, are better fenced, and the crops more diligently attended to. We were kindly received by the Rev. Mr. Greene, his lady, and Miss Ogden, who have the charge of the establishment, which consists of eighty scholars, between the ages of twelve and eighteen years. Every opportunity was afforded me of inspecting the establishment, and while I found much to commend, there were many things I could have desired to see changed.

In the first place, I was much struck with the appearance of a want of cleanliness in the dresses