On my arrival at Singapore, various reports were made to me of defects existing in the tender Flying-Fish. It was to be expected, after the arduous service she had performed; yet, having brought her safely thus far, I felt a natural desire to carry her home with us; and in this all the officers seemed to partake. But the idea of risking the lives of her officers and crew, after the disaster that had already befallen her sister craft, was not to be endured; and I saw that it was necessary to have a thorough examination of her before I ventured her in the homeward voyage. I therefore ordered a survey by the most experienced persons in the squadron, who, although they could not point out any conspicuous defects, were satisfied that from long and hard service she had become weakened in her frame, and that she would not only need much time, but a large expense, to place her in a fit condition to make the voyage home. I must say that even after I had received the report I still felt a strong inclination to persist in bringing her back to the United States; but my final decision was against it. The consul was therefore desired to advertise her for sale, and in the mean time all her stores and armament were removed. Straits of Banca. She was, agreeably to the notice, sold at public sale for three thousand seven hundred dollars. To part with this vessel was unpleasant on many accounts; for she had been daily, for nearly four years, my first and last thought. The attachment I had felt for her was great; the efficient aid she had occasionally afforded in the performance of my duties, caused me to value her highly; and as a vessel of her class, she was almost faultless. By the 25th of February, we had completed filling our water, which is here conveniently supplied by tank-boats; and having obtained for the passage home all the stores we needed, except bread, we made every preparation for sailing. In consequence of the short supply of the latter article, I determined to touch with the Vincennes at the Cape of Good Hope; while the two brigs were ordered to stop at Rio Janeiro, for the same purpose, as well as to obtain some further observations, and additional specimens of natural history. At five o'clock on the morning of the 26th, I took advantage of the land-breeze, and made signal to the Porpoise and Oregon to get under way. CHAPTER XXXIX. CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. DEPARTURE FROM SINGAPORE-STRAITS OF RHIO-STRAITS OF BANCA-STRAITS OF SUNDA-INDIAN OCEAN-DEATH OF MR. VANDERFORD-VENDOVI'S GRIEF-ARRIVAL IN TABLE BAY-CAPE TOWN-GOVERNMENT OF THE COLONY -TAXES-BANKING-WINE TRADE-CATTLE-IMPORT TRADE-HOTTENTOTS-CAFFRE TRIBES-VISIT TO CONSTANTIA-ASTRONOMY AND MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS-ASCENT OF TABLE MOUNTAIN-GREEN POINT-LIGHTHOUSE-EXCHANGE-GARDEN OF THE BARON VON LUDWIG-CLIMATE OF THE CAPE-PHENOMENA OF REFRACTION-TENURES OF LAND-DEPARTURE FROM TABLE BAY-VOYAGE TO ST. HELENA-JAMESTOWN-VISIT TO THE TOMB OF NAPOLEON AND LONGWOOD-MAGNETIC OBSERVATORY-PLANTATION-HOUSE-DEPARTURE FROM ST. HELENA-PASSAGE TO THE UNITED STATES-ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK-CONCLUSION. AFTER leaving Singapore, I determined to pass through the Straits of Rhio, a route which I deemed the shortest and best for vessels bound through the Straits of Sunda. We had light winds and rain-squalls at the entrance of the strait; but towards the afternoon we were favoured with the north-east breeze, which carried us rapidly onward. At night I anchored, wishing to examine more particularly the charts extant, and to make what corrections I might deem necessary. The next morning at daylight we again resumed our route, but in consequence of fog were obliged to anchor off the Dutch factory at Rhio, where a fort is established. This was first occupied in 1824, after the cession of Malacca. The island contains but few inhabitants, and those few are not inclined to come under the Dutch authority. From all I could learn, there is very little inducement for a vessel to resort here for trade. The island is considered extremely unhealthy for foreigners during several months of the year. When the weather cleared off, we again passed down the strait, and on our arrival off the southern point of the islands, we steered for the east point of Lintin, which island we passed on the 28th, on our way to the Straits of Banca. On the morning of the 1st of March, we approached the northern entrance of the Straits of Banca, and got a view of these low and uninteresting coasts. The same afternoon, we fell in with a barque, under Dutch colours, which refused to answer our hail as we passed; we immediately wore ship, and fired a shot; upon which they let fly all their halyards and sheets. A boat was sent on board with an officer, who discovered that she was manned by Malays, and that no one on board could speak English; however, he managed to understand that they were from Palambam, Sumatra, and bound to Singapore. Soon afterwards, we saw the Dutch establishment of Mintow; it is situated on a knoll, at the northern end of Banca, and had the Dutch flag flying over it. The greater part of Banca is low land; the northern end particularly so. There are, however, a few detached hills, of considerable altitude, which serve as sailing-marks during the passage through the straits. The southern end of the island rises, and appears to be of a different formation from the other parts, as its soil is thickly wooded. In the forest were seen numerous clearings, where people had been and were then burning charcoal, to obtain fuel for smelting the tin The principal mining district lies towards ores. the southern end of the island, in the swampy flat land at the foot of the isolated hills before mentioned. The ore is usually found at the depth of from six to twenty feet from the surface, in layers that run horizontally for two or three miles; these vary in thickness from six to twenty inches, and consist of heavy granulated particles, of a dark metallic lustre, mixed with white sand. The strata above the vein consists of vegetable mould, red and white clay, intermixed with pebbles of white quartz, and white sand, like that which is found with the metal. A stratum of steatite is said to be found underlying these ores of tin. of a strong current setting in towards the island. We anchored to avoid danger, and lay until the turn of the tide; we afterwards passed round Zutphen's Island and Hog Point, anchoring for the night off Rajah Bassa. As far as my experience goes, I can testify that Horsburgh's directions for the Straits of Sunda are safe and good, although perhaps not the most suitable for our navigators, for he makes the safety of the ship his principal aim, and gives directions so to navigate a large class vessel as to insure it; whilst my countrymen, although they always read him, are not disposed to pursue his directions ex time is lost than a regard to sufficient safety demands. Although such may be the case, it ought not to lessen the gratitude that navigators owe him for his East India Directory, a contribution to nautical information that cannot well be surpassed, either for general accuracy, or as regards the great number of satisfactory directions that it contains. The process of working these mines is exceed-actly, believing that in following his advice more ingly rude; both Malays and Chinese are employed in them, but the latter are preferred on account of their greater perseverance and industry. I was told at Singapore that the amount of tin derived from Banca by the Dutch was not half so great as that obtained while it was under British management, or that it is still capable of yielding. The ore is washed after its removal from the veins, which separates the earth, and leaves only the metal and stones; the last are separated by hand, and the metal is then smelted: to effect this, huge piles of alternate layers of ore and charcoal are formed; the fused metal escapes into a hole dug in the ground, from which it is dipped and poured into moulds, forming, when cool, the tin of commerce. Tin ore is found at Banca in great quantities, but its quality is inferior to that obtained from other places; and it rarely yields more than sixty per cent. of pure metal. The process of smelting is but seldom performed, generally not oftener than once or twice a year. Rude bellows of various forms are used in kindling the smelting fires; some of these are composed of large wooden cylinders with moving pistons, which give a strong continuous blast; others are nothing more than a bamboo tube, through which the breath is forced upon the flame. The process for working the mines and extracting the metal from the ore, are similar in all the mining districts, and differ but little from those employed when the mines were first opened. The Sumatra shore of the Straits of Banca is low, and appears to be covered with a dense forest. During the night we were visited by a heavy storm of thunder and lightning, with much rain. The next morning being pleasant, we got under way again, and passed rapidly through the straits; the southern outlet, however, called the Lucepara Passage, was not attained until nearly dark, and before reaching it we crossed many shoals, so near the surface as to leave but little water under our keels. An English vessel in advance of us hoisted a light after dark, and by taking it for our guide, we succeeded in passing through safely. This vessel was soon overtaken by us, and proved to be the barque Java, Lewis master, thirty-eight days from Batavia, and bound to Singapore. Having lost twelve of her crew by dysentery, and but few of the survivors being able to perform their duty in consequence, she was returning to Batavia. The surgeon was sent on board, and the necessary medicines, &c., of which they were in great want, were supplied. On the 4th of March we arrived off Hout's Island, at the entrance of the Straits of Sunda. The wind dying away, we were left at the mercy On the morning of the 6th, we again got under way, the men exhibiting their joy in taking this first real step on their homeward course, by running up the anchor quickly to the bows, and by the alacrity with which they performed their other duties. With a light wind from the eastward, we stood into the Indian Ocean, between the islands of Pulo Bessy and Crockatoa; the day was a delightful one, and being Sunday, when no unessential duty was performed, there was leisure to enjoy it. After divine service, the wind shifted to the northward and westward, and towards night we experienced severe squalls from that quarter, accompanied by lightning and torrents of rain. In the intervals between the gusts, the wind blew freshly, and on the morning of the 7th we found ourselves fairly launched on the blue waters of the ocean, pursuing rapidly our homeward course. We were now truly on our route for home, and finding that the brigs detained us by their slower rate of sailing, I determined to part company with them, having some days previously given them directions what course to pursue in such an event. We accordingly made all the sail that could be carried, and soon left them behind us. On the 23rd, Benjamin Vanderford, master's mate, died. During the cruise, I had often experienced his usefulness, and now regretted his loss. He had formerly been in command of various ships sailing from Salem, and had made many voyages to the Feejee Islands. During our stay there he was particularly useful in superintending all trade carried on to supply the ships; he always proved himself a good officer, and was one for whom I felt a great regard. He had a presentiment of his own death, and had long been impressed with the opinion that he would not survive to return to his country. His death produced a great impression upon Vendovi, for Mr. Vanderford was the only person with whom that chief could converse, and a sort of attachment had sprung up between them, arising from the officer's long residence with Tanoa at Ambau, and his familiarity with the manners and customs of the Feejee Islands. Besides, Vendovi looked forward to his becoming a protector on their arrival in the United States. While conversing with Mr. Vanderford, some time before his death, he expressed his willingness to take charge of Vendovi, and to befriend him on our arrival at home; for, although the Feejeeans had despoiled him of all his property, they had nevertheless saved his life, and for that, or rather for refraining from devouring him, he felt some gratitude, and would have shown it to Vendovi. Poor Vendovi could not be persuaded to look at his friend's corpse; his spirits evidently flagged; a marked change came over him; and he no doubt felt as though he had lost his only friend. His own disease, henceforward, made rapid strides towards a fatal termination, and he showed that such was the case by his total disregard of every thing that passed around him, as well as by his moping, melancholy look. On the 24th, the remains of Mr. Vanderford were committed to the deep, with the usual service and honours. The same day we experienced a current to the north-west; and the crew, after having been for ten days afflicted with colds and influenza, began rapidly to recover. On the 12th of April, we arrived off False Bay. The temperature of the surface water was reduced to 64°, and the current was setting us rapidly to the north-north-west. The fog and mist that now prevailed, prevented my observations for ascertaining the rate of the current from being as accurate as I desired; the results, such as they were, gave it a velocity of more than a mile per hour. On the 13th, no observations could be obtained on account of the fog and mist; and our situation became rather a perplexing one. On making trial of the current, we found that it was drifting us to the north at the rate of eighteen miles in twentyfour hours. Soundings were obtained in eightyfive fathoins. The temperature of the surface water fell to 54°. Towards evening it cleared up, and our situation was obtained by bearings, which placed us off Snake's Head, about twelve miles to the southward and westward of the Lion's Head. Believing that my only chance of making Table Bay was by keeping as close to the shore as possible, I kept the ship on soundings during the night, and at daylight stood in through a thick fog for what I felt sure must be the position of Green Point. While under way, we fell in with a fleet of small fishing-boats lying at anchor. Their crews were catching a species of bass, as fast as they could haul in their lines. Immense numbers of birds, such as albatrosses, petrels, and gulls, surrounded the boats, and were feeding on the small fish and offal thrown overboard from them. The fish caught here are salted, and being afterwards dried, furnish no inconsiderable portion of the food of the lower orders of the colony. One of the fishermen was desired to come on board, and after he had satisfied me that some reliance might be placed in him as a pilot, he was retained with us. Under his guidance we stood on, and as the fog began to break away reached our anchorage, having passed close to the lighthouse and Green Point, the western point of Table Bay. The captain of the port, Commander Bance, R.N., boarded us soon after we had anchored. I was glad to see this gentleman, to whom I felt under obligations, for civilities and kindness shown me some eighteen years previously, during a cruise off the coast of Peru. An officer was despatched by me to call upon, and report our arrival to Sir George Thomas Napier, governor of the colony. The falling of the ball at the Royal Observatory Arrival in Table Bay. Cape Town. afforded us an opportunity for comparing the time as shown by our chronometers with that of the Cape. Of this we took advantage, and found that our time-keepers had performed well. The view of Cape Town and its vicinity from the anchorage, is remarkable, and the whole seems novel. Directly in its rear rise the perpendicular sides of Table Mountain, while on either hand are seen the crags of the Lion's Head and Devil's Peak; the former usually overhung by a large cloud, which often covers the whole town with its broad shadow. These mountains are composed of a dark reddish-gray sandstone, and excepting immediately at their base, and close to the rear of the town, show but little signs of vegetation. Here and there pretty straw-coloured cottages are scattered among the foliage. The anchorage, which is at some distance from the beach, was, at the time of our arrival, occupied by a large number of vessels, which somewhat surprised me, for at this season of the year the bay is often visited by northers, which have in former years done much damage, and caused the loss of many lives. I was informed, however, that but little apprehension is now felt on their account, for ships are at the present time well provided with chain cables, and can hold their ground. Two quays extend from the beach into the bay, affording facility to lighters to discharge and take in their cargoes at all times of the tide. The town itself shows many traces of its original occupants. The houses, with their prim little stoops, porches, and gables to the street, reminding me strongly of those built by the early settlers of New York and Albany. But few of the streets have any sidewalks, and many of them are not paved at all, causing them, in consequence of the arid climate, to be ankle deep in dust. Nine-tenths of the inhabitants still retain a Dutch look, and many of them are unable to speak any other than their original language, while to a large number of them the epithet "boors," so commonly bestowed, is quite applicable. The town is laid out with regularity, many of the streets crossing each other at right angles, and some are of respectable width. Rows of oak, poplar, and pine trees line the sides of the principal avenues. Many contain shops, which are well supplied with the usual varieties of European goods. Roses and vines are cultivated in front of the houses, and their blossoms and fruit, although within reach of all, are respected. The houses are painted of various colours, without any regard to taste, and are of a clean though antiquated appearance. No two of them are alike, yet their styles are so marked, that the country whence their builders came may be judged with tolerable certainty from each. Badly-painted signs are as numerous as in our own country, and vanes pointing in every direction surmount the gables. The Dutch costume still prevails among the inhabitants, and afforded us much amusement. In the schools the Dutch language is still taught; though in many the English is a branch of education. Considering the number of years that this colony has been under the British dominion, it surprised me to find that a knowledge of the Dutch was much more necessary than that of English, while dealing with the inhabitants. There are two hotels in Cape Town, the Royal George and the Victoria, both kept on the English plan. The former we frequented during our short stay, and found it comfortable, although far inferior to what might have been expected from the size of the town. The Cape of Good Hope was originally settled by the Dutch in 1652; captured by the British in 1795; restored again after the peace of Amiens in 1802; again taken possession of in 1806; and finally ceded to Great Britain in 1815. During its occupation as a Dutch colony, it had twenty-eight governors, and since it has been under British rule it has had eighteen. By this it will be perceived that the changes in its administration have been frequent, and what might naturally be expected to follow, the policy and character of its governors have been vacillating. It has been generally ruled very much after the ideas of those who presided for the time being. The government is nominally vested in the governor, and an executive and legislative council, who are all appointed by the crown, or with its approbation and consent. Under this system of government it has been the misfortune of the Cape colony to be placed; and the advantages it has possessed under some, have been counterbalanced by others, and not unfrequently the salutary regulations made by one, have, without any apparent reason, in the minds of the colonists, been annulled or set aside by others; which, of course, has tended to foment discord and produce a feeling of opposition to British rule: this has prevented the advancement of the colony, and retarded its usefulness by giving license to crime that otherwise would not have existed. Of late years, however, although the government still remains the same, yet they have been more fortunate in the individuals who have presided over it. In regarding the British colonial system, it appears remarkable that the British nation, generally so mindful of political rights, should place it in the power of distant governors to rule their colonists with almost despotic sway, and their growth and rise to be at the option of any one individual, who may arbitrarily crush or paralyse the efforts of industry and the development of resources. Many of the inhabitants of the Cape complain of this polity, but look forward to the adoption, in the course of time, of an elective legislative body, which will give them some share in the government, and prevent not only misrule, but undue taxation and a misapplication of its funds in the various improvements which government may authorize. The executive council consists of seven members, including the governor, who is the presiding officer; and the legislative council of thirteen, composed of the members of the executive council and five additional unofficials, who are themselves residents of the colony, named by the governor, and appointed by the crown. The same kind of government may be said to exist now as in New South Wales, of which I have had occasion to speak when treating of that colony; and it is thought to be equally inefficient, and to require reform. One of the circumstances that had agitated the respectable portion of this colony, has been the publication of the authentic Cape records. Many entered warmly into the scheme at first, but it was soon perceived what the developments were likely to be, and that many who had played a conspicuous part in the history of the colony, were about to have all their public as well as private acts brought to light; and this has raised a strong opposition to the continuance of the publication. The editor, Donald Moodie, Esq., in the year previous to our visit, made an appeal, stating the difficulties that he had encountered, and adding, that he would in consequence be obliged to give up the task. Some of the numbers were sent me by a friend, which I took the more interest in perusing, as exhibiting the history of the tribe of Hottentots, which may be now deemed almost extinct, so far as the civilized and settled portions of the colony extend. Many disreputable actions on the part of all those who have been engaged were here exposed, and I am not at all surprised that the official incumbent, as well as others, should exert all their interest to effect its suppression; however, as many of these statements are now before the public, it would be desirable that they should be gone through with, that there may be a full understanding of the transactions that have now come to light, in order to have a full knowledge of the state of the affairs of the colony, as well in relation to the governor as to those who have been employed under the governmental authority, whether missionaries or officials. Like the secret details of all colonies, they will show a great deal of misrule, inhumanity, and want of system, in the conduct of affairs. The opposing interests are such that the whole will probably be exposed. The colonists, on the one side, feeling themselves unjustly charged with cruelty and persecution of the unfortunate natives, desire that all the investigations that have taken place may be brought before the public; while, on the other hand, those who are or have been in any way connected with the government, are, from all accounts, disposed to the suppression of this documentary evidence. Were I desirous of showing the dark side of the picture, I might insert here a few extracts that would startle the many who now boast of their philanthropic actions, and are disposed to condemn the actions of others in regard to slavery, who are, in comparison, far less guilty of wrong to the interests of humanity. Those who are disposed to look further into these subjects, may consult "Specimens of the Authentic Records of the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope, relative to the Aboriginal Tribe; together with an Inquiry into the Justice and Expediency of publishing the remaining Portion of those Records, by Donald Moodie: Cape of Good Hope, 1841.” On the morning after my arrival I called on his excellency the governor, at the government-house, where I had the honour of an introduction to Sir George Napier. His reception was kind and frank. With him I passed a pleasant half hour. Sir George is one of the heroes of the Peninsular War, and bears the marks of his activity in those well-contested conflicts, in the loss of an arm. He showed me over the apartments, which, however, are not now occupied, as he was living at his country-seat. They appear convenient, and afford from the windows a view of the government demesne, which is quite pretty, planted as it is with fine old oaks; part of it is kept as a public walk, which the citizens frequent on holidays in large numbers. The Cape station has never been a popular one, from the want of society; but of late years very many persons from India have made it a resort for the reco very of their health, and in a measure supplied the deficiency in this respect. The offices for the transaction of government business are in the immediate neighbourhood of the government-house, and within the precincts is also a college for the education of the youths of the colony; it has several professors, but I understood all those who desire to have their children well educated send them to England. The barracks are extensive, and well built, and have a large area in front as a parade-ground. There are several other buildings going up, for the accommodation of the troops, and hospitals for the sick, all handsome and well situated. I regret to say that as much cannot be said for the town prison, nor for the buildings appropriated to the police department, custom-house, and harbour-master's department: all these bear the marks of what Cape Town was, and stand in strong contrast to the modern improvements. Formerly the municipal government of Cape Town consisted of a president, four members, the town treasurer, and a secretary. The president was elected for two years, and was succeeded by the senior member of the board. This board was dissolved, apparently for no sufficient reason, for every one was satisfied with its usefulness in controlling the various duties appertaining to a corporate body. The town is now divided into twelve districts, and each district into four wards, over each of which there is a commissioner, and four wardmasters, chosen by the people. The first form the upper board, and the last the lower, and each have a chairman and deputy chairman, who, among other duties, act as appraisers of property, on which the taxes are assessed equal to three-quarter pence in the pound. By the statistical tables published, it appears that the valuation of property of Cape Town reaches the sum of one million six hundred and thirty-six thousand pounds. The municipal regulations now seem to be excellent, and are more or less under military control. The police has been organized on the plan of the police of London, and its efficiency is highly spoken of. From all the information I could gather, crime has very much decreased in both the Cape district and colony. The statistics of crime show but few cases. The quarterly sitting o the grand jury took place during our visit, and there were but six presentments, viz., one for culpable homicide, two assaults with intent to harm, one robbery, one theft, or receiving stolen goods, and one fraudulent insolvency; and this within a district containing fifty thousand inhabitants. There are great complaints about the administration of the laws of the colony; the English system now prevails so far as to allow counsel to the criminal. The trial by jury is established; seven of the twelve must be present, and it requires a majority of these only to convict; if more than seven are present, and the jury are divided equally, the prisoner is acquitted. The Dutch criminal code formerly in force has been modified by the English, so far as respects some punishments; torture, for instance, has been done away with. The crimes of murder, high treason, counterfeiting, and rape, are punished with death; thefts of large amount, assault, robbery, and the like, are punished by transportation; while, for other and Taxes. minor crimes, the prisoners are employed as convicts on Robben's Island, working in the quarries; for less offences, flogging and imprisonment are inflicted. On the other hand, the English civil law has been modified by that of the Dutch: this has increased litigation, in consequence of the absurd manner in which boundaries were formerly laid off; such, for instance, as estimating by the distance a man could walk in an hour, or canter with his horse. Another source of complaint, which amused me not a little, was the administration of justice by a supreme court, over which a chief justice and two puisne judges preside; two of these are English, while the third is a Scotchman; the consequence is, the English judges administer the law after the English code, while the Scotch judge follows that of Scotland, which often renders the decision diametrically opposite: and it is impossible for the advocate or client to know by what judge or law his case is to be tried. It was said, I know not with what truth, that high connexions have been considered more suitable qualifications for the office than legal knowledge. The salaries do not exceed fifteen hundred and two thousand pounds annually. There are in the Cape colony eight districts. Each of these is governed by a commissioner or civil magistrate, who is assisted by justices of the peace. These districts are again subdivided into veld cornetcies. The cornetcies are governed by a petty magistrate, who is called a veld cornet. These extend over a distance of about twenty miles, and under him is organized the militia force, in case it should be called out. It is the duty of the latter to meet the requisitions of the higher government officers for supplies, &c. There is little liberty allowed the inhabitants of the districts, who are restricted from all acts that might in any way tend to give expression to their sentiments; not even are they allowed to hold a public meeting, and all kinds of prosecutions are referred to the capital for final decision. At the Cape they have a vice-admiralty court for the trial of offences on the high seas. The commissioner of the district, and others holding office, are appointed under the great seal, who are each empowered to grant licenses of marriage, and do other civil acts, and have associated with them the justices of peace, as well as the veld cornets. The taxes are represented as being onerous; there is, for instance, a capitation tax of six shillings annually, on all free males and females, above the age of sixteen. Those in the employ of the government are exempt, as well as the servants attendant on them. Horses and carriages of all kinds are taxed from two to four pounds. There is a tax on all incomes exceeding thirty pounds, of two per cent.; in addition to these are the stamp duties, water taxes, house taxes, auction duties, market duties, tithes on wine and grain, in short, on every thing that is sold; all papers executed, transfers of property, promissory notes, bonds, and licenses of all kinds; indeed, it would be difficult to mention any thing exempted from the allpervading taxation which here prevails. inquiring the cost of articles, it is invariable to account for the price, by adding that the article is taxed. The people are even taxed for permission On |