their views of the proper method of instructing an ignorant people are not at all times, or in every respect, the most enlightened; but no one can with propriety question their pious zeal, or the honesty of their intentions. We may perhaps lament their intolerance towards other sects, but no one can visit the island without perceiving on every side the most positive evidence of the great benefits they have already bestowed, and are daily confering upon the inhabitants.

All this good has been done in the face of many and great difficulties. The most serious of these is the evil influence of a large portion of the other foreign residents. Although among these are some who are truly respectable, the majority is made up of runaways from the English convict settlements, and deserters from vessels. These men, the outcasts and refuse of every maritime nation, are addicted to every description of vice, and would be a pest even in a civilized community. It may easily be conceived what an injurious influence such a band of vagabonds, without trade or occupation by which they can support themselves, guilty of every species of profanity and crime, must exert upon the morals of the natives, and what a barrier they must oppose to their improvement in morals and religion.

Tahiti, when first visited, was proverbial for its licentiousness, and it would be asking too much, to require that after so short an enjoyment of the means of instruction, and in the face of such obstacles, its inhabitants should as a body have become patterns of good morals. Licentiousness does still exist among them, but the foreign residents and visitors are in a great degree the cause of its continuance, and an unbridled intercourse with them serves to perpetuate it. Severe laws have been enacted, but they cannot be put in force in cases where one of the parties is a foreigner. I see no reason, however, why this island should be pointed out as conspicuous for licentiousness. When compared with many parts of the world that arrogate a superior civilization, it appears almost in an advantageous light. Vice, at any rate, does not stalk abroad in the open day, as it did in some places we had lately visited upon the American continent. It would be unfair to judge of these natives, before they had received instruction, by our rules of propriety; and now many of those who bear testimony to the laxity of their morals, visit their shores for the very purpose of enticing them into guilt, and of rioting without fear or hindrance in debauchery. Coming with such intentions, and finding themselves checked by the influence of the missionaries, they rail against them because they have put an end to the obscene dances and games of the natives, and procured the enactment of laws forbidding illicit intercourse.

The missionaries are far from overrating their own success in effecting an improvement in morals, and inculcating the obligations of religion. So far from this, I found that they generally complained that sincere piety was rarely to be found among the natives. However this may be, the external signs of moral and religious improvement are conspicuous. Many of the natives are scrupulous in their attention to Christian duties, and members in communion of the church. All are strict observers of the Sabbath; indeed, nowhere is its institution more religiously attended to than in

Change of the national dress.

those Polynesian islands which are under missionary influence. On that day no canoe is launched upon the waters, and no person is seen abroad except while on his way to or return from church. When thus seen, they are neatly and decently clothed, although in very bad taste. At church they form a respectable-looking congregation, and listen with attention to the preacher.

The success of the missionaries in introducing this strict observance of a Sabbath is ascribed by themselves in a great degree to its analogy to the taboo-days of heathen times, and the continuance of its sanctity is now insured by the penalties which await an infraction of it. The punishment for Sabbath-breaking consists in the offender being compelled to make a certain number of fathoms of road, and upon a repetition of the offence, the number of fathoms is much increased.

Although much has been done for the improvement of the natives, still it appears evident that much more might have been done if the missionaries had not confined themselves so exclusively to teaching from the Scriptures. The natives, by all accounts, are extremely fond of story-telling, and marvellous tales of their ancestors and ancient gods are even now a source of amusement. The missionaries, as I am told, possess much information in relation to the history and mythology of the island, embodied in the superstitious tales still occasionally current among its inhabitants. It is to be hoped that they will preserve a record of these, before they are obliterated by their exertions to destroy the ancient superstition. But they would have succeeded sooner in eradicating the practice of reciting these legends, had they provided a substitute in works of fiction, inculcating moral and religious lessons, or teaching useful knowledge. So also, while it was indispensable to put down those amusements which were the means or incentives to debauchery, this measure ought to have been accompanied by the introduction of innocent modes of recreation. For want of the first resource, much time is now spent in unmeaning gossip, and the necessity for the other is often shown in a listless idleness.

No attempt has been made by the missionaries to introduce the mechanic arts, or improvements in agriculture, yet it cannot be doubted, that to have taught them even the simplest of these, would have materially aided the progress of civilization, and reacted favourably upon that of religion. The failure of a cotton manufactory, with expensive machinery, which was erected on the island of Eimeo, affords no argument against the probable success of less complex arts. The natives were not prepared to pass at once from habits of desultory exertion to the regular and stated occupation of the mill. But the spinning-wheel, the handloom, and the plough, would not have required such a decided change in the number of hours of labour, and would have served as a preparation for more continuous industry. The two former implements have at length been introduced by other hands, and have already been adopted with eagerness by some of the natives.

The change of dress which has been introduced by the missionaries and other foreigners, has, on the contrary, had an injurious effect on the industry of this people. While they wore their native tapa, the fabric, though of little value, gave employment

to numbers of women; and this change of dress, intended as an advance in civilization, has had the effect of superseding employments which formerly engaged their attention, and occupied their time. The idleness hence arising, and the artificial wants thus created, have no little influence in perpetuating licentiousness among the females, to whom foreign finery is a great temptation. The European dress, at least as worn by them, is neither as becoming, nor as well adapted to the climate as that which it has almost superseded. Many of the missionaries now see these things in their true light, and informed me that they were endeavouring to pursue a more enlightened course.

My experience warrants me in saying that the natives of Tahiti are honest, well-behaved, and obliging; that no drunkenness or rioting is to be seen, except when provoked by their white visitors and inmates, and that they are obedient to the laws and to their rulers. That they should be comparatively indolent is natural, in a climate where the fruits of the earth almost spontaneously supply the wants of nature, and where a mere animal existence may be maintained without labour. No people is, in truth, so independent of the aid even of their fellows as the Tahitians. A native may in the morning be wholly destitute even of implements wherewith to work, and before nightfall he may be found clothed, lodged, and have all the necessaries of life around him in abundance. These he derives from the cocoa-nut, the poorou (hibiscus tiliaceus), banana, bread-fruit, and bamboo. That he does not find it necessary to call upon others for assistance, does not make him forget the duties of hospitality, but it does produce a thoughtlessness about his own wants, and takes away that incitement to labour, which is so powerful an aid in the promotion of civilization. Still, I am satisfied that the Tahitians do not avoid labour, when they can work with profit to themselves. Those who were employed on board the squadron, where their pay was liberal and regular, performed their tasks faithfully and well; and they bear the same character for fidelity in the whale-ships, on board of which they are much employed. Some of them are now engaged in the culture of the sugar-cane; and a single native plantation was mentioned to me, of which the preceding year's crop had amounted to five tons. Coffee has also been planted, and succeeds remarkably well. Much more, too, would have been done in these productions had their industry been encouraged by the missionaries, as a body; but, while some of them have done their utmost to stimulate the natives to exertion, others have altogether discountenanced any attempts to introduce new articles of culture.

One of the most important consequences of the introduction of civilization has been the establishment of a settled constitution. This was framed by the missionaries in 1823, upon the model of that of England, and was revised in 1826. The royal authority includes the power of the veto, the nomination of the supreme judges, and of all officers connected with the person of the sovereign. The crown is hereditary, descending either to males or females. The legislative power is lodged in an assembly, composed of two members from each district, chosen triennially by the people. This assembly is convened annually for the purpose of remodelling existing laws, or enacting new ones.

It has also semi-annual meetings, and may be convened more frequently, if necessary, for the discussion of questions of importance. All enactments of the legislature, before they become laws, are laid before the queen for her approbation and signature. When this is affixed, they are carried into effect by the judges and the officers of the crown. Should she refuse her signature, they are revised and remodified, or laid aside altogether.

The island is divided into seven districts, each of which has an inferior court for the trial of ordinary cases. This consists of two judges, who are not unfrequently also members of the legislature. The decision of these courts must be founded upon evidence, and appeal lies to the supreme tribunal.

This supreme court is composed of seven judges, two of whom are residents of the island of Eimeo. The judges are also executive officers, and nearly all are chiefs. This double capacity gives them great influence, and their power is sufficient to supply, in part, the queen's want of energy, but at the same time serves as a check against any encroachment upon the prerogatives of the sovereign.

The powers of this court even extend to an impeachment of the royal ruler.

The mode of trial, both of civil and criminal cases, is by a jury, and free argument is allowed. The testimony is not given upon oath, but the penalty for giving false evidence is severe. The jury is composed of six persons; and every one has the right of being tried by his peers.

The reigning queen is named Aimata, but is more usually known as Pomare IV. She is the sister of the late king, and grand-daughter to that Pomare I. who acquired the sovereignty of Tahiti soon after its discovery. She is now (1839) about twenty-seven years of age, and has been twice married: the first time to Pomare, a young chief of Tahaa, from whom she was divorced; the second, to a young chief of the island of Huaheine, by whom she has one son, the heir of the throne. The general appellation he goes by is Pomare taue, equivalent to king-consort.

Next in rank to the queen is her aunt, Ariapaca, the eldest sister of her mother, and at one time queen-regent. She still possesses great influence.

In case of failure of the queen's posterity, the next heirs to the throne are the princesses Ninito and Taii, who are the queen's cousins, and nieces to Pomare II.

Uata, the godfather of the queen, although not a chief by birth, has from this connexion obtained great influence in the queen's councils, and may be termed prime minister.

The seven judges of the supreme tribunal are nominated by the queen, but the nomination must be confirmed by the legislature. Those who at present hold the office are all large landholders, and men of the highest character and intelligence to be found in the population. They are in fact the rulers of the kingdom. Five of them, viz. Paofai, Mare, Utami, Taati, and Tanoni, reside on the island of Tahiti ; the other two, Ruetone and Mahine, at Eimeo.

In spite of the small extent of the kingdom, it is not without subjects to distract its councils. There are two distinct parties: the one led by the queen and the missionaries; the other, by some of the

chiefs. The leaders of the latter are Paofai, Hitoti, and Taua, who are descended from the ancient kings dethroned by Pomare I. These chiefs have large domains, and many of the raatiras (landholders) take part with them. They are, besides, distinguished by qualities which give them consideration among the islanders. Paofai, who has more than once been spoken of, holds the office of chief judge, and is considered as the best statesman on the island. Hitoti is distinguished for a dignity, uprightness, and good sense, which command universal respect. Taua possesses a high reputation as a brave and skilful warrior.

Of these three leaders, Hitoti alone is wholly free from reproach. Paofai is accused of covetousness, and a propensity to intrigue; and Taua, of a fondness for intoxicating drinks.

The queen, however, contrives to rule in all matters that rightfully belong to her; and, by the aid of the missionaries, maintains her ground against this strong opposition, although its leaders have generally the power to determine the course of policy to be pursued, and entire authority over the execution of the laws. They are much opposed to foreigners, and have made several attempts to have them banished from the island. They are supposed to entertain the design of setting aside the queen, on account of her irregular behaviour and vices; but this plan is not likely to succeed, because of the personal popularity she enjoys, and the number of adherents she possesses among the people. In conformity with such a design, these chiefs are said to be continually watching for opportunities to increase their own power and diminish the royal authority. Among the occasions of which they endeavoured to avail themselves, was the celebrated affair of the Roman Catholic priests, the circumstances of which, as nearly as I could learn from the statements of both parties, are as follows :—

Two priests of this denomination, who had been stationed at the Manga Reva, or Gambier Group, landed on the southern side of the island, and travelled towards Papieti, preaching the doctrines of their church. They, however, found none willing to listen, and it is said, that no native would receive them into his house. On their arrival at Papieti, however, Paofai, Hitoti, and some other chiefs, gave them countenance, and they were hospitably received by Mr. Morenhout, the acting American consul, who, however, did not lodge them under his own roof, but in an adjacent building. The people, however, excited by the preaching of the English missionaries, broke into the building, and compelled the priests to embark on board a small vessel, which carried them to Uea, or Wallis Island, about two thousand miles to the west of Tahiti.

In considering this question calmly, and stripping it of the exaggerations with which both parties have loaded it, it is difficult to say which was most in the wrong. The Protestant religion was established by law upon the island, to the exclusion of all others, and this the priests well knew; nor can any but zealots, who think that those whom they style heretics are worse than infidels, excuse their intrusion upon missionary ground already fully and successfully occupied. On the other hand, their precipitate expulsion, under circumstances of great hardship, exhibited an unchristian spirit, for which the resident missionaries may justly be held responsible, as they unquestionably

Case of the Catholic priests.

had it in their power to prevent any positive ill treatment on the part of the natives.

The consequences of this expulsion of the priests remain to be related. In due course of time the French frigate Venus, commanded by M. Du Petit Thouars, arrived at the island, and anchored in the harbour of Papieti. The commander immediately demanded satisfaction for the outrage committed on his countrymen the priests, and threatened that unless two thousand dollars were paid him within twenty-four hours, he would fire upon and burn the town of Papieti. The queen had no money, and was inclined, as I was told, to let the French do their worst; but as in this case the loss would have fallen wholly on the foreign residents, the required sum was collected from them by Mr. Pritchard, and paid to M. Du Petit Thouars. A treaty was also forced upon the government, allowing all Frenchmen to visit the island freely, to erect churches, and to practise their religion. Thus the local laws were abrogated under the threats of an irresistible force, and the national independence virtually surrendered.

This was a high-handed measure on the part of the French commander, and one that hardly admits of justification, particularly the demand for money; for he had himself been received with great hospitality, and not long before another of his sovereign's frigates, the Artemise (I think), had been saved from wreck by the unrecompensed exertions of the Tahitians. The amount demanded also was at least four times as great as the pecuniary damage incurred by the priests would be reasonably valued at. The French commander, therefore, appears, in thus bullying a defenceless people into the payment of an exorbitant indemnity, and into a relinquishment of the right of admitting or excluding foreigners and strange religious creeds, by municipal regulation, in a light far from advantageous.

We have seen that Paofai and his party at first countenanced the French priests. This they no doubt did in the hope of introducing an influence which might be opposed to that of the English missionaries. Subsequently to these transactions, and after an attempt by two foreigners to murder Mrs. Morenhout, they have endeavoured to obtain the passage of a law for the expulsion of all foreigners whatsoever.

The aversion to the permanent residence of foreigners is general, and although there is no law forbidding the sale of land to them, yet no offers have hitherto been found sufficient to induce the chiefs to dispose of any portion of their soil. They find in its possession an acknowledged right to rank and respectability, and it spontaneously yields them and their followers the means of subsistence. So powerful is this repugnance to the admission of foreigners to any of the privileges arising from a possession of land, that those who are attempting to cultivate sugar, &c., hold their leases by so uncertain a tenure as to prevent their making any permanent improvement.

The fertile portion of the island of Tahiti lies in the valleys, which are of small extent, and in the plain which extends from the sea-shore to the spurs of the mountains. These produce tropical plants in great abundance and luxuriance, and are probably not exceeded in fertility by any portion of the earth's surface. The climate of this region is

warm but not enervating, and is well adapted for the enjoyment of all the pleasures of life. To this climate the habits and pursuits of the natives are well adapted, or rather they are its necessary results. Their disposition leads them to the quiet enjoyment of the beautiful scenes around them. Their cottages are to be found in retired and lovely spots, and are usually surrounded by neatly-fenced enclosures. In these, which are often of considerable extent, are to be seen growing the bread-fruit, viapple, and orange, and sometimes extensive groves of tall cocoa-nut trees. In one corner are the patches of taro and sweet-potatoes.

The cottages are of an oval form, usually about fifty or sixty feet in length, and twenty in breadth. The walls are formed of bamboos set in the ground, with intervals of about an inch between them, for the admission of light and air. To the top of these a plate-piece of the hibiscus, a light and strong wood, is lashed with sinnet. From this the rafters rise on all sides, and meet in a ridge, which is about half the length of the building. The rafters touch each other, and are covered with small mats made of the pandanus leaf. These are closely fitted together, and lapped over each other, forming an impervious and durable roof. The floor is the natural earth; there are no partitions, but tapa or matting is employed as an occasional screen. A building of this description may be erected for about fifty dollars.

The Tahitians use neither tables nor chairs. Their bedsteads are formed of a framework of cane, raised a short distance from the ground, upon which a few mats are laid. A pillow stuffed with aromatic herbs is in general use among the better class.

I hesitate to speak of the females of this island, for I differ from all who have gone before me in relation to their vaunted beauty. I did not see among them a single woman whom I could call handsome. They have, indeed, a soft sleepiness about the eyes, which may be fascinating to some, but I should rather ascribe the celebrity their charms have obtained among navigators, to their cheerfulness and gaiety. Their figures are bad, and the greater part of them are parrot-toed. They are exceedingly prone to prattling, or may rather be said to have a tattling disposition, for they cannot keep even their own secrets.

I have spoken of the incongruous character of the dress of the females. Among the men this is not as strongly marked as it is said formerly to have been, and they are no longer content with cast-off clothing. Those who can obtain it are dressed in sailors' garb: others wear around their bodies a wrapper called pareu, which extends to the calf of the leg. This is now usually made of blue cotton cloth, and with it some wear a cotton shirt of gaudy colours. Others luxuriate in a pair of duck trousers, and carry the pareu upon their shoulders.

The appearance of the dress of the women while at church, has already been spoken of. On ordinary occasions, they wear the pareu alone, but when dressed, put over it a loose dress, resembling a night-gown, buttoned at the wrists, and confined in no other place. Relics of their ancient dress may still occasionally be seen in wreaths of flowers around the head, and in the hair. The hau is a sort of rim made of pandanus, and when it has flowers

beneath, it gives a pleasing and rural look to the women, to whom it also affords a convenient and easily-procured protection from the sun. The wreaths are usually composed of the Cape jasmine and rosa sinensis, the latter of which is often stuck through the lobes of their ears, and in their glossy black hair.

The natives of both sexes seem passionately fond of flowers, but the use of these in dress has been discouraged by their teachers, who have taught them that such vanities are unbecoming to Christians. I am at a loss to understand why so innocent a pleasure should not have been encouraged rather than discountenanced. In conformity with this opinion, the absence of flowers around the missionaries' dwellings is universal, and cannot fail to be remarked in a climate where the plants most admired in their own country, a exotics, are of almost spontaneous growth.

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Cooking and eating occupy but a small portion of their time. Their food consists principally of bread-fruit, taro, banana, vi-apple (spondias ), oranges, cocoa-nuts, sugar-cane, fowls, and fish. They eat no salt, but employ instead of it a sort of sop, made of sea-water, cocoa-nut milk, and the root of the ti. Their mode of eating is somewhat disagreeable, for the bread-fruit or taro is dipped in the sop, and then sucked into the mouth with a smacking sound, that may be heard at some distance. The vessel most commonly used is a cocoanut shell. The children are fed upon poe, which is made of bread-fruit and taro, pounded together with a little sugar. The child is laid on its back,

and is crammed with balls of poe of the size of a walnut, at which it shows its delight by flapping its arms, kicking, and chirping like a young bird.

The men of Tahiti care little about music, but the women appear to be passionately fond of it, and have very correct ears. Many of them have rich contralto voices, and can descend to very low notes, while others do not differ in this respect from the females of our own country; occasionally one may be found that can sound exceedingly clear and very high notes. Their voices accord well with each other, and a party of four or five will make excellent harmony.

If they ever had any native music, it has long been forgotten, and no other singing is now heard but hymns and sailors' songs; you observe, however, a peculiar nasal sound, particularly in those who indulge in the latter class of singing.

The party despatched for the purpose of making an attempt to reach the top of Orohena, consisted of fifteen persons, including four natives as guides, and an American of the name of Lewis Sacket, as interpreter. This man was from the state of New York, and was admirably qualified for his duties.

By the advice of the Rev. Mr. Wilson, the party took the route across the island which follows the Pappino valley. The distance on this line, to Lake Waiherea, is no more than twenty-five miles, while by that which follows the shores, it is fifty miles before the point at which the ascent begins is reached. None of the guides were acquainted with this route, and it was therefore necessary to find a person who was. For this purpose they in the first place proceeded towards the eastward from Matavai, for about five miles, to the mouth of the river Pappino, which they reached about

2 P.M. Here they found a guide, and were informed that the stream was much swollen: they however determined to go forward, and were accompanied by a troop of boys and girls with flowers. Before they had proceeded far, they reached a place where it was necessary to ford the stream, which they found difficult on account of the rapidity, although the water was only three feet deep. Other fords of the same description occurred every few rods, until they at last reached one in which the water reached to their necks. This was of course dangerous to those who could not swim, but all crossed in safety. A young native, as if in derision of the difficulty which they appeared to experience, and of their effeminate bringing up, dashed into the flood, and was seen plunging down the rapids in sport, and evidently with great enjoyment, although frequently wholly immersed in the foam.

When they reached the edge of the lake, their guides constructed a hut, in which they passed the night. The next day Lieutenant Emmons made a survey of the lake, and sounded its depth from a raft. It was found to be half a mile in length, a third of a mile in breadth, and in shape nearly oval. The depth in the middle was ninety-six feet, whence it gradually decreases to the edge. It had rained the whole of the preceding night, and the lake was observed to rise about five feet in twenty hours. As far as could be discovered, it has no outlet; but the natives assert that if a bread-fruit be thrown into the water, it will make its appearance at a spring, which gushes from the hill-side, about two miles north of Ooaigarra, and

Samoan or Navigator's Group.

near the sea. The height of the surface of the lake, measured by the sympiesometer, is about one thousand seven hundred feet above the level of the sea.

Most of the vessels that visit Tahiti are those belonging to our whaling fleet: these average less than a hundred annually. From them the natives are enabled to dispose of some of the supplies they raise, and in return obtain such articles as will promote their comfort and add to their pleasure. The whale-ships, for the most part, have articles of trade which they barter with the natives, so that little money is required to carry on their business. The natives, particularly the chiefs, are however well acquainted with the value of money.

The few other vessels that visit the islands bring little cargo; if two arrive at the same time they destroy each other's ventures by glutting the

market.

The pearl-shell fishery of the Paumotu Group centres here. I was told it was principally in the hands of the French consul. For few a years before our arrival, viz. from 1832 to 1838, it had been very productive. The amount obtained was about nine hundred tons, which was estimated to be valued at 45,000 to 50,000 dollars; the greater part of this was sent to France. Of the agricultural products they have little to dispose of as yet; neither is the island susceptible of any very extended operations, to induce vessels to visit it exclusively for its trade or productions. The three chief articles of production are sugar, cocoa-nut oil, and arrow-root.

THE PILOT-THE

THE Porpoise, having been refitted, was sent to sea on the 20th September, 1839, for the purpose of again visiting the west end of Nairsa or Dean's Island, with Krusenstern's and Lazareff. She was also ordered to pass over the supposed locality of Recreation Island, and then to meet the Vincennes at Rose Island, the easternmost of the Samoan or Navigator's Group.

A stormy evening having occurred previous to our leaving Matavai Bay, "Jim," the pilot, desired to see me; on his coming into the cabin, to my great amusement, he urged me to allow him to go to Papieti, where he was sure he would be wanted; and when I asked for what purpose, he told me that the "thunder and lightning would bring in ships of war." He was displeased when I laughed

and said, that as he was engaged on board my ship, I would wait until I saw the ships before I could give him permission. He then reminded me of the night before we arrived, when there was plenty of thunder and lightning, and that he had told me as soon as he came on board that he expected us. He went on to repeat that he was sure that they would want him early in the morning at Papieti, but I persisted in my refusal; and in the morning he appeared much disconcerted to find that there was nothing in sight out of which he could make a ship of war.

The Vincennes moved to the harbour of Papieti on the 22nd September. At the same time, orders were given to the Peacock and Flying-Fish to take on board their articles from Point Venus,