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CHAPTER IX.

CHILI.

1839.

ON approaching the coast of Chili, every one is anxious to get a sight of the Cordilleras. There are only two periods during the day in which they can be seen to advantage, viz.: in the morning before sunrise, and in the evening at sunset. The first is the most striking view. The outline is at that time of a golden hue, and may be easily traced, in a long line, running north and south. This gradually brightens, and is lost the moment the sun is seen.

The evening view gives rise to disappointment. The mountains are seen at a great distance (eighty miles in a bird's flight) reflecting the setting sun, and, in consequence, appear much lower than is anticipated.

On our arrival at Valparaiso, I lost no time in establishing the observatory. The officers and scientific gentlemen were assigned to such duties as were deemed most desirable to insure the results in the different departments.

The authorities, whom I at once called upon in company with our consul, were exceedingly kind and attentive, and gave every offer of assistance.

The officers of the customs readily gave me permission to land all my instruments. Mr. Cood, an English gentleman, kindly offered our consul to place at my disposition an unoccupied house on the hill. Although it was some distance to mount up, as it was quiet and out of the way, I accepted the kind offer, and occupied it.

As I was desirous of avoiding all unnecessary delay, not only on account of the loss of time we had already met with, but because the season was approaching when the northers might be expected, every exertion was made to supply our wants, and through the kindness and attention of our consul, G. G. Hobson, Esq., this was effected in the

shortest possible time. The northers are greatly dreaded, although I think without much cause. One of them, and the last of any force, I had myself experienced in June, 1822, (whilst in command of a merchant vessel.) In it eighteen sail of vessels were lost. But since that time vessels are much better provided with cables and anchors, and what proved a disastrous storm then, would now scarcely be felt. I do not deem the bay so dangerous as it has the name of being. The great difficulty of the port is its confined space, and in the event of a gale, the sea that sets in is so heavy, that vessels are liable to come in contact with each other, and to be more or less injured. The port is too limited in extent to accommodate the trade that is carried on in it. Various schemes and improvements are talked of, but none that are feasible. The depth of water opposes an almost insuperable obstacle to its improvement by piers. The enterprise of the government, and of the inhabitants of Valparaiso, is, I am well satisfied, equal to any undertaking that is practicable.

From the best accounts, I am satisfied that the harbour is filling up. from the wash off the hills. Although this may seem but a small amount of deposition, yet after a lapse of sixteen years, the change was quite perceptible to me, and the oldest residents confirmed the fact. The anchorage of the vessels has changed, and what before was thought an extremely dangerous situation, is now considered the best in the event of bad weather. The sea is to be feared rather than the wind, for the latter seldom blows home, because the land immediately behind the city rises in abrupt hills, to the height of from eight to fifteen hundred and two thousand feet.

Valparaiso has greatly increased in size and consequence within the last few years, and has become the great seaport of Chili, and, indeed, of the whole coast. Although it labours under many disadvantages as respects its harbour, which is inferior to others on the coast, yet it is the nearest and most convenient port to Santiago, the capital.

I have had some opportunity of knowing Valparaiso, and contrasting its present state with that of 1821 and 1822. It was then a mere village, composed, with but few exceptions, of straggling ranchos. It has now the appearance of a thickly-settled town, with a population of thirty thousand, five times the number it had then. It is divided. into two parts, one of which is known by the name of the Port, and is the old town; the other by that of the Almendral, occupying a level plain to the east. Its location is by no means such as to show it to advantage. The principal buildings are the custom-house, two churches, and the houses occupying the main street. Most of the buildings are of one story, and are built of adobes or sun-dried brick.

The walls of the buildings are from four to six feet thick. The reason for this mode of building is the frequent occurrence of earthquakes. The streets are well paved. The Plaza has not much to recommend it. The Government House is an inferior building. Great improvements are now making, and many buildings putting up.

They are about bringing water from one of the neighbouring springs on the hill, which, if the supply is sufficient, will give the town many comforts. On the hills are many neat and comfortable dwellings, surrounded by flower-gardens. These are chiefly occupied by the families of American and English merchants. This is the most pleasant part of the town, and enjoys a beautiful view of the harbour. The ascent to it is made quite easy by a well-constructed road through a ravine. The height is two hundred and ten feet above the sea. The east end of the Almendral is also occupied by the wealthy citizens. The lower classes live in the ravines. Many of their habitations are scarcely sufficient to keep them dry during the rainy season. They are built of reeds, plastered with mud, and thatched with straw. They seldom contain more than one apartment.

The well-known hills to the south of the port, called the "Main and Fore Top," are the principal localities of the grog-shops and their customers. These two hills, and the gorge (quebrada) between them, seem to contain a large proportion of the worthless population of both sexes. The females, remarkable for their black eyes and red "bayettas," are an annoyance to the authorities, the trade, and commanders of vessels, and equally so to the poor sailors, who seldom leave this port without empty pockets and injured health.

It was difficult to realize the improvement and change that had taken place in the habits of the people, and the advancement in civil order and civilization. On my former visit, there was no sort of order, regulation, or good government. Robbery, murder, and vices of all kinds, were openly committed. The exercise of arbitrary military power alone existed. Not only with the natives, but among foreigners, gambling and knavery of the lowest order, and all the demoralizing effects that accompany them, prevailed. Every body engaged in trade was found more or less to recognise the system of fraud and deceit that had become the order of the day. The demoralizing influence of smuggling, and bribery in open day, without disguise, with the knowledge and connivance of the higher authorities, whose duty it was to apply the corrective, naturally brought about this state of things; and the inference was drawn, true or false, that they participated in the profits accruing from such transactions.

I myself saw on my former visit several dead bodies exposed in the

public squares, victims of the cuchillo. This was the result of a night's debauch, and the fracas attendant upon it. No other punishment awaited the culprits than the remorse of their own conscience.

Now, Valparaiso, and indeed all Chili, shows a great change for the better; order reigns throughout; crime is rarely heard of, and never goes unpunished; good order and decorum prevail outwardly every where; that engine of good government, an active and efficient police, has been established. It is admirably regulated, and brought fully into action, not only for the protection of life and property, but in adding to the comforts of the inhabitants.

There is no country that more strongly bears the impress of the working of a master spirit, in conjunction with a desire on the part of the people to maintain order by good government, than Chili.

The civil power has now complete ascendency over the military, which had so long ruled Chili with despotic sway. The breaking down of the latter was the first step to the establishment of good order, and removed the spirit of disorganization that a military ascendency was for ever producing. Revolution had become another word in the army for promotion, for with it, every officer usually obtained a grade. Each officer was ever ready to seek self-aggrandizement, whenever he could create a party in his favour; and no opportunity was lost in bringing about dissatisfaction at the mode in which the existing government conducted affairs.

The predominant trait of the Chilians, when compared with other South Americans, is their love of country and attachment to their homes. This feeling is common to all classes. There is also a great feeling of independence and equality. Public opinion has weight in directing the affairs of state. The people are fond of agricultural pursuits, and the lower orders much better disposed towards foreigners than in other parts. Schools and colleges have been established, and a desire to extend the benefits of education throughout the population is evinced. This has been of late one of the constant aims of government.

The credit of forming this police is given to Portales. It consists. of two distinct bodies, one mounted, the other on foot. The watchmen carry swords only. The former patrol the streets on horseback, while the latter take their particular walk round a square or two, for which they are responsible. A message may be sent through them to the farthest end of the city, and an answer returned, in fifteen minutes. They carry a loud and shrill whistle, the sounds of which are varied as occasion requires, and by it a concentration of force can be effected in a few moments. The notes of the whistle when all is well, are

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