them devouring the latter, with great gusto, raw, but the former they roasted. Here we again saw printed copies of several portions of the Scriptures, and found that many of them could read and write well. No spears, clubs, or warlike instruments were to be seen, and when I asked for them as matters of curiosity, they said they had no arms except two muskets, which were pointed out to me, hanging up under the eaves of the house. The native missionary, a man about fifty years of age, told me that in times past they had " all war," but now all was peace. I was desirous of knowing to what he imputed the change, and he very readily answered, "Mittionari, mai-tai, mai-tai," (missionary, good, good). They acknowledge the authority of Pomare of Tahiti. Dr. Pickering, who was in company with me, came to propose that we should ascend the bluff, which the chief, being made acquainted with, readily gave his consent to, and sent for two men to accompany us. We ascended through the narrow break, twenty to thirty feet wide: the natives had improved the path up by placing the clinky slabs of compact coral, as a rude pavement, and for steps, in order to make the communication more easy to their planting grounds. On reaching the top, we found ourselves in a wood, and wishing to get a view of the interior, we made for the east end, passing occasionally over beds of clinky coral, thrown and scattered in all directions. After a walk of more than a mile, we came to an open space, from which we had a clear view of the interior of the island, which was found to be densely covered with trees. The general shape, as far as it could be seen, was pan-like, or in the form of a dry lagoon.

This island was particularly interesting, from its combining both high and low vegetation; and a very considerable collection of plants was obtained. Several pigeons were seen, two of which we obtained; they were of a large species of Columba oceanica, that inhabits these groups. We crossed many large fissures, running in a line with the cliff, some of them two or three feet wide, in which trees of some size were growing.

As far as our observations went, the upper portion of this island is composed of limestone or compact coral rock; the cliff, on its eastern side, where we first landed, appears stratified, horizontally, in beds of ten to twelve feet in thickness, of a sort of conglomerate, composed of shells, coral, and pieces of compact rock, cemented together by a calcareous deposit. The under part of this bed had been much worn by the sea; the rich soil was composed of vegetable matter and decomposed limestone. The slabs that were lying loose upon the surface had a clinky or metallic sound when struck. The island has unequivocal

marks of having been uplifted at different periods; the cliff, at two different heights, appears to have suffered abrasion by the sea. Stalagmites were observed under the cliffs, and some stalactitic columns, fourteen feet high by six in diameter. On coming towards the village, we saw many natives returning with loads of taro, &c., which they had been sent to gather. On our return, we were taken again to the chief's house, and entertained with cocoa-nuts, baked taro, and bread-fruit, which had been cooked during our absence. At the boat we found more articles for purchase than we had the means to pay for, or the boat could carry; and every one seemed desirous of securing the sale of his fruits and vegetables. Notwithstanding the over-supply, the prices were I thought rather enhanced than lowered, and there was an evident feeling among the crowd that we had not been so liberal in buying as we ought to have been. I was glad to get off, in order to be freed from the flies, which are in incredible numbers in all the inhabited islands, and a great nuisance. I left the island under the impression this little community was a happy and contented one. At about five o'clock, we joined the ship, some distance to the southward of the island; all the surveying boats having returned, we bore away for Tahiti, at which island we arrived on the 10th. At 5 P. M., LieutenantCommandant Ringgold boarded us, and brought off Jim, the pilot; he reported all well on board the Porpoise. At sunset, we anchored in Matavai Bay. I hastened to ascertain the correctness of our chronometers, and the next day landed the instruments on Point Venus, and took observations. They gave for its longitude 149° 31' 13.5" W. Krusenstern makes it 149° 29′ 17′′ W.

Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, in the Porpoise, after parting company on the 1st of September, proceeded to the south side of Raraka, in fulfilment of his instructions. He found the whole southern part of it a bare reef, with, the surf breaking violently over it. When off the south point, he made the isle of Katiu or Sacken to the south, and that of Makima to the east, and connected them; after which he proceeded to the westward, passing Aratica (Carlshoff), and thence to Nairsa or Dean's Island, which he made on the 5th; fixed its western end, passed along its south to its western side, and thence to Krusenstern's Island, to the westward, which he circumnavigated; from thence went direct to Tahiti, anchored in Papieti Harbour on the 9th, and the next day proceeded to Matavai Bay, the place of rendezvous.

On the 12th, the Peacock arrived, having passed to the Rurick Islands or Arutua, the north end of which lies in latitude 15° 15′ 00′′ S., longitude 146° 51' 00" W. A landing was attempted at several places in the boats. One of them succeeded near a cocoa-nut grove,

but the two that went to land at the village, found the surf too high to attempt it.

The north shore of Arutua Island was surveyed, when they bore away, and connected it with Nairsa or Dean's Island, along which they ran the whole length of its south side by daylight. The last named island is for the most part a washed reef, with no opening. The compact coral blocks showed themselves here more conspicuously and in greater numbers than before seen.

The following sketch, by Mr. Agate, will illustrate their appearance,

After making the west end of Nairsa, Captain Hudson sighted Krusenstern's Island, and then stood for Metia Island, to the southward, on which the officers landed the next day on its western side. Their examination confirmed the facts already given, relative to its appearance.

Mr. Dana found some recent shells embedded in the limestone, but they had lost their texture.

On this island, the magnetic observations were made, with the Peacock's instruments. Captain Hudson also sounded with the deepsea thermometer, when within a mile of the island, in six hundred fathoms; the temperature at the surface of the water was 80°, that below, 441. The next day they made Tetuaroa, to the northward of Tahiti, formerly celebrated as the resort of the Tahitians, for the purpose of recovering from the bodily diseases brought on by their debaucheries, &c. It is a low island, about six.miles long, with a few trees upon it, and a reef off its southern end, extending half a mile. It is plainly to be seen from the high ridges of Tahiti.

On the 14th, the Flying-Fish arrived. She had visited and surveyed King George's Group, which appeared well inhabited, and have entrances to their lagoons on the west side. The native name of the two islands, is Tiokea and Oura. The southwest end of Tiokea is in latitude 14° 31' 12" S., longitude 145° 09' 30" W.; Oura bears S. 68° W., distant four and a half miles. Then the tender passed to Manhii and Ahii, round the north side of Nairsa, or Dean's Island, to Tahiti.

Little appears to be known of the history of the Paumotu Islands, or their inhabitants. At Tahiti I obtained some information from one who had been much among the group, and believe that it is as authentic as can be obtained, and may be relied on.

The Island of Anaa, or Chain Island, has been the principal seat of power, the natives of which had frequently waged war on the others, and succeeded in conquering all to the west of Hau or Bow Island, with which they have frequently fought.

In the reign of the first Pomare, under Tomatiti, they even attempted the conquest of Tahiti, and succeeded in overcoming the small peninsula of Taiarabu. The story is, that they were about to continue their attack on the larger island, when Tomatiti received a written letter from Pomare, which caused hostilities to be suspended; and after further negotiation, finally led to Tomatiti's retiring from the island with a large present of hogs, tapa, &c. Notwithstanding this, the Chain Islanders remained nominally under the government of Tahiti, and now acknowledge their dependence on it.

Anaa, or Chain Island, is one of the smallest, yet it is the most thickly-peopled island of the whole group. It is said to contain five thousand inhabitants, which large number is accounted for by the conquest of the other islands, and taking their inhabitants off as captives. In the list of the islands and their population, it will be seen how few remain on the other islands in comparison with this number. The whole island is one cocoa-nut grove, and the principal food is fish and cocoa-nuts. The former are caught in large quantities in the lagoon. A great change has been brought about in the character of these islanders within the last twenty-five years, during which the Tahitian missionaries have been established at Anaa. Before this period, the inhabitants were cannibals. Since the residence of the missionaries, they have imbibed better tastes; and the Christian influence has also made them more peaceful. This change was first evinced by the treatment of their captives, whom they allowed to return, if they chose, to their own island; but very many of them had married at Anaa, and became permanent residents there, and few have taken advantage of the permission to return. Notwithstanding the numerous population, they are said to have an abundance of food. The people of Anaa still consider the inhabitants of the eastern islands as cannibals; but their statement in this respect is little to be depended upon, for they have no communication whatever with those whom they class under this denomination, seldom extending themselves beyond Hau or Bow Island.

The Paumotuans are considered more warlike than the Tahitians, for which reason Pomare I. kept a body-guard of them in preference

to his own subjects. They have the reputation of being an honest and trustworthy race.

These islanders are certainly not all from the same stock, and those of the Disappointment Group, whom we were much struck with at the time of our visit, in particular differ from the others. Since we have seen all the different Polynesian groups, these appear, however extraordinary it may be, to resemble the Feejee Islanders more than any other.

By all accounts, they speak a different dialect from that of the Tahitian nation. The difference is, however, not great, for I was told that it required but a few weeks for any of the natives to acquire it. Mr. Hale met several Paumotuans at Matavai Bay, and among them he found one by the name of Tuoni, who confirmed the accounts I have detailed above.

The population of this group I have nowhere seen given; I have therefore endeavoured to obtain the most satisfactory information in relation to it: the whole amounts, in round numbers, to about ten thousand, as follows:

On the map of this group it will be seen to where the line of cannibalism extends, according to native accounts. It may be said to divide them into two divisions, the Christians and Heathens, or perhaps, more properly, the eastern and western; the whole comprise sixty-five islands. Although there is little doubt that the natives of this group have been addicted to this horrible barbarity, yet it is believed that it is not now practised.