up into pieces of all sorts of shapes and sizes, weighing from a pound to many tons. Mr. Peale remarks, that the whole mass looked so fiesh, that it appeared as though it ought to burn the feet of the passing traveller-and yet this eruption took place anterior to native tradition. One of the native guides, Kimo, gave out here from fatigue, and after sharing his load they left him to follow. They next passed two old craters covered with bushes and grass, at whose base was a fresh-looking stream of glassy lava. The first crater was in many respects like an old stone quarry, though on a gigantic scale: the rocks were broken up, and thrown about in great confusion; one side of the wall appeared as though it had been blown out, and strewed on the plain beneath; the sides that were left were nearly perpendicular, and presented distinct layers. Many plants were growing in the crevices. The second crater was of a regular conical shape, both within and without, the interior being an inverted cone. Although the interior presented this great regularity, yet its sides were apparently composed of large blocks of lava, thrown out from its bottom, and lodged on its sides one above the other. They encamped at the foot of a very old crater, now covered with trees of Edwardsia and Acacia, where they found water. The natives sought out one of the lava caves, as a protection against the cold and misty wind. Kimo again joined them at dark. Although the next day they had fine weather and clear sunshine, yet they could see the rain falling from the clouds on the route before them. This rain they experienced shortly afterwards, and were obliged to travel through a driving mist all day, with a very chilly atmosphere. The natives complained so much of cold, that the party were induced to stop, light a fire, and give them some provisions, which had now become rather scarce. Seeing abundant signs of wild cattle, and hearing the sound of a distant gun, one of the guides went off to the haunts of the cattle-hunters in the neighbourhood, and shortly after returned with a supply of jerked beef. Their route lay next through some very good grazing ground; and large herds of cattle find subsistence here, which are killed for the hides. Bones were lying in all directions. There is also some very good arable land, covered with large grass. This part of the island would make valuable grazing farms, for there is a sufficiency of soil to support them, and wood to build with, though scarcely enough of the latter article for fuel. The loose scoria would make excellent fences, as the cattle can with difficulty be driven 102 over it. The distance from the coast and the want of roads, however, would interpose many obstacles to its settlement; and the climate, so unlike what the natives are accustomed to on the coast, would probably prevent their services from being obtained. The next morning they perceived that the tops of both Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa were covered with snow, which, however, disappeared by ten o'clock. They now took a southerly course, crossing over many ancient beds of lava much decomposed, and now covered with vegetation. The trees were the koa (Acacia), Edwardsia, and Dodonaa. They now first met the curious Compositæ mentioned by Douglass, and named by Dr. Hooker, Argyrophyton Douglassii; it was seen about eight feet in height, covered with a silver pubescence, which gives it a beautiful appearance. They found many pools of water in the lava. They had crossed over the flank of Mauna Loa, and supposed themselves to be about two-thirds of the way up towards its summit. The temperature at night fell to 40°. The beautiful columnar cloud of the volcano of Kilauea, which is always seen to hang over the crater, both by day and by night, was now in full view. The next day they were on their route early, and passed some rich grazing country, with the grass full four feet high. From all appearances, these parts are not visited by cattle. There were many trees of koa (Acacia), Edwardsia, &c., as before. A fog coming on, they lost their way, and were obliged to retrace their steps. Our gentlemen, having their pocket-compasses, now took the lead, to the no small astonishment of their guides, that they could, in a thick fog, direct the way through places they had never visited before. Kimo, their Oahu guide, again gave out, and was left to follow; and as he did not come up as soon as he was expected, the guides and natives set out, in a praiseworthy manner, to hunt him up, although they were all more or less lamed by crossing over the rough lava during the day. They soon succeeded in finding him, and returned to the camp. On the 22d, they reached the volcano, and considered themselves amply repaid for the rough travelling they had gone through for six days previously. As I shall have occasion to speak more fully of this portion of the island, with its many craters and its volcanic action, I shall defer the account of it for the present. Our gentlemen now set out for Hilo, where they arrived the day after, having travelled a distance of one hundred and fifty miles. Here they again embarked on board the Flying-Fish, which sailed for Oahu and reached Honolulu on the 28th of November. The squadron was now on the eve of sailing, having on board stores and provisions for a long cruise. As this winter's cruising was particularly intended to examine the portion of ocean that was not included in my instructions, I shall, before narrating the details of the proceedings of the squadron, give, in a general view, the intended operations. The movements of the squadron were, at this time, particularly directed to the examination of parts of the ocean possessing great interest in their connexion with that important branch of national industry, the whale-fishery; and the course I proposed to adopt will be understood from the following statement of the objects I now had in view. The Porpoise, as before remarked, had been sent towards the Paumotu Group, or Dangerous Archipelago, lying to the eastward of Tahiti, to examine some islands that were reported as doubtful, and others whose positions were not well ascertained. She was also to leave a party on one of them, to bore through the coral rock, the Expedition having been provided with an apparatus for that purpose. Thence she was to proceed to Tahiti, and from Tahiti towards Penrhyn and Flint's Island; and return to Oahu by the end of March, 1841. The Porpoise sailed, as has been stated, on the 16th of November, 1840. The Peacock, with the Flying-Fish as tender, I designed should visit and examine the location of several of the doubtful islands, passing along, the magnetic equator westward from the meridian of 160° W.; thence to a small group of islands in longitude 174° W., which I had partly examined in the Vincennes, and had found some new islands among them; these I had called the Phoenix Group. Thence the Peacock was to proceed to search for the Gente Hermosas of Quiros, or the islands reported to me at Upolu, when I was there in 1839, as existing to the northeast; thence to Upolu, to re-survey the south side of the island, not having been able to satisfy myself with the former survey of it; at the same time directing Captain Hudson to inquire into the late murder of an American seaman, of which I had received information from our consul, Mr. Williams. Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold had, as before stated, made a demand for the murderer, but the chiefs had refused to comply with the treaty. The circumstances of the murder of Gideon Smith, as given by affidavits made before the consul, (which will be found in Appendix XX., Vol. III.,) are as follows. Gideon Smith was a native of Bath, Massachusetts. He belonged to the whale-ship Harold, of Dorchester, Massachusetts, but left her on |