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Indians, but with the natives of Polynesia; both require looking after before going on a journey, and will seldom burden themselves with food.

At the place where we embarked I tried the velocity of the stream, which I found three miles per hour, but in some places it was much more rapid. The temperature of its water was 48° Fahrenheit.

During the night I succeeded in getting several observations of stars, for latitude and longitude.

The next morning we made a start betimes, in order to reach Astoria at an early hour. A short distance below our encampment we passed the east fork of the Cowlitz, which is smaller and not navigable even for canoes. We also passed the mouths of several small streams on the west side. Plumondon pointed out that side of the river to me as good trapping-ground, and amused me by the narration of many of the difficulties he had to encounter in taking his game. noon we reached the Columbia.

About

The Cowlitz river takes its rise in the Cascade Range, near Mount Rainier, and has many short turns in it. Its banks are tolerably high, until it approaches the Columbia. It is only at high water, in the spring and fall, that the river can be used for boating, at which time the supplies from Vancouver are sent, and the grain, &c., returned, in large flat barges. The soil along the river appears to be of a good quality, a clayey loam with vegetable mould, over trap rock and sandstone. The prevalent trees were poplars, soft maples, ash, fir, pine, and cedar, with some laurel, where the prairies are so low as to be flooded in the month of May

On this river it was reported that coal of a good quality existed, but I examined all the places that indicated it, and only found lignite. This exists in several places, but the largest quantity lies above the East Fork: several specimens of it were obtained.

In the month of September following, I examined the Cowlitz, and found it exhibiting a very different character. A few miles above its mouth there was not water enough to float even a boat, and it was besides filled with rapids. It is not navigable for barges more than three months in a year. The distance we passed down the Cowlitz did not exceed twenty-six miles, although we had been told that it was more than forty.

The route by the way of the Cowlitz will in all probability be that which will hereafter be pursued to the northern waters and sounds. Although there are many difficulties in crossing the rivers, &c., yet it is believed to be the most feasible course.

On our way we met with many canoes passing up, loaded with

salmon and trout, which had been taken at the Willamette Falls, and which they were then carrying to trade with the Indians for the We obtained some of the fish as a supply for our

cammass-root.

Indians.

On entering the Columbia our Indians required some rest, and said they were hungry; we therefore concluded to stop for a short time on its banks. If I were to judge of the whole Cowlitz tribe from the specimens we had with us, I should say they were the merriest set of fellows I ever saw, full of fun, and laughing all day long: I became at last wearied with their incessant gaiety.

The Columbia, where the Cowlitz joins it, is a broad flowing stream, and was at this time much swollen. We had, after entering it, about forty miles yet to make, and it was past noon; but we glided briskly on with the current, although it was by no means so rapid as I had expected to have found it. Near the mouth of the Cowlitz is a high conical hill, which has received the name of Mount Coffin, from its having been a burial-place of the Indians; and the remains of many of their coffins were still to be seen scattered over it. On the opposite side of the river is a high barrier of trap rocks, covered with majestic pines.

About ten miles lower down, we passed Oak Point, where the river turns nearly at right angles, taking its course along a barrier of trap rocks, which it here meets on its west side, and which rises eight hundred feet perpendicularly above its surface. On the other side of the river is one of the remarkable prairies of the country, covered with tall waving grass, and studded with many oaks, from which the point takes its name. What adds additional interest and beauty to the scene is Mount St. Helen's, which may be seen from the sea when eighty miles distant: its height I made nine thousand five hundred and fifty feet.

In this part of the river, which I named St. Helen's Reach, we met the brig Wave, that had brought our stores from Oahu. The master informed me that he had landed them at Astoria, and placed them under the care of Mr. Birnie, who had charge of the Company's fort. The master of the Wave confirmed the report that the Peacock had not arrived, and after a short delay we proceeded. By sunset we had reached Termination Island, and had yet twenty miles to make in a very dark night. We had already passed the only place where we could have encamped, and the natives showed extreme reluctance to go on. They soon desired to return; saying that the night was very dark, and that the bay would be dangerous. This request was overruled, however, and we continued our course, though under appre

hension of disaster. The Indians said that many canoes had been lost, and after I became acquainted with this part of the river, I no longer wondered at their objections to pass over it at night; for if there is any wind it becomes exceedingly rough, and dangerous for their canoes.

We found the water quite smooth, and glided on hour after hour without any appearance of a landing. I was at a loss to account for the length of our passage, until I found the tide had been against us. We at last reached what Plumondon called Tongue Point, and afterwards kept skirting the shore for so long a time that I began to have misgivings that we should pass Astoria, and began firing muskets, the usual signal of an arrival. They were immediately answered by others just behind us, and the loud clamour of about forty yelping dogs. These sounds, although discordant, gave us the delightful assurance that we had reached our destination, and might now make our escape from the confined and irksome position we had been in a whole day. Mr. Birnie, the agent of the Hudson Bay Company, met us at the landing, with lanterns and every assistance, and gave us a truly Scotch welcome. We soon found ourselves in his quarters, where in a short time a fire was burning brightly, and his hospitable board spread with good cheer, although it was past midnight. After partaking of the supper, blankets were furnished us, and we were made exceedingly comfortable for the night.

In the morning we had a view of the somewhat famous Astoria, which is any thing but what I should wish to describe. Half a dozen log houses, with as many sheds and a pig-sty or two, are all that it can boast of, and even these appear to be rapidly going to decay.

The Company pay little regard to it, and the idea of holding or improving it as a post, has long since been given up. The headquarters of their operations have been removed to Vancouver, eighty miles further up the river, since which Astoria has merely been held for the convenience of their vessels. It boasts of but one field, and that was in potatoes, which I can, however, vouch for as being very fine. In former times it had its gardens, forts, and banqueting halls; and from all accounts, when it was the head-quarters of the Northwest Company, during their rivalship with the Hudson Bay Company, there was as jovial a set residing here, as ever were met together. I have had the pleasure of meeting with several of the survivors, who have recounted their banquetings, &c.

In point of beauty of situation, few places will vie with Astoria. It is situated on the south side of the Columbia river, eleven miles from Cape Disappointment, as the crow flies. From Astoria there is a fine

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