The native games formerly practised were all more or less those of hazard, which doubtless gave them their principal zest.

The governor was kind enough, at my request, to have the game of maika played. This was formerly a favourite amusement of the chiefs, and consists in the art of rolling a stone of the above name. I had heard many extraordinary accounts of the distance to which this could be thrown or rolled, which was said to be sometimes upwards of a mile.

In some places they had trenches dug for this game upwards of a mile in length, about three feet wide and two deep, with the bottom. level, smooth, and hard. The game is still practised, (although none of the trenches remain,) on any level ground that may be suitable. In the present instance, the governor selected the road in front of the house I occupied. There was a large concourse of spectators, and several men were chosen by the governor to throw. The maika is a piece of hard lava, in the shape of a small wheel or roller, three inches in diameter and an inch and a half thick, very smooth and highly polished. The greatest distance to which they were thrown by the most expert player, was four hundred and twenty yards. Many were extremely awkward, and it was necessary for the spectators to stand well on the side of the road for fear of accidents. All of them threw the maika with much force, which was evident from its rebounding when it met with any obstruction. The crowd, which amounted to three thousand persons, were greatly amused. This was their great gambling game, and such was its fascination, that property, wives, children, their arm and leg bones after death, and even themselves while living, would be staked on a single throw in the heathen time.

They have another game, which I was told is now more in vogue than it has been for some years. The revival of it is attributed by some to the visit of the French frigate Artemise; and certainly the natives do not appear to feel themselves so much restricted in their amusements as they did before that event. It is called buhenehene, and consists in hiding a stone under several bundles of tapa, generally five. He who conceals it sits on one side of the bundles, while those playing occupy a place opposite to him. The bundles are usually of different colours, and about the size of a pillow. Each player has a stick three feet long, ornamented with a feather or cloth, with which each in turn designates the bundle under which he thinks the stone is hidden, by a blow. If the guess be correct, it counts one in his favour; if wrong, he who has concealed it gains one. He who first counts ten wins the game. This game appears very simple, and one would be inclined to believe it all luck, until the game is witnessed; it is really

amusing to a bystander, for the players always evince great eagerness, and during the operation of concealment, the face and eyes are narrowly watched by some, while the muscles of the bare arm are by others. So satisfied are they that the eye betrays the place of concealment, that the hider covers his eyes until he hears the stroke of the rod. An expert player is rarely deceived, however often the hand may be passed to and fro under the bundles. This game is now played for pigs, tapa, taro, &c.

The governor gave us an exhibition of throwing the lance, which he said had formerly been a favourite amusement of all the people, but was now practised only by the soldiers. The lance or spear is formed of a pole of the hibiscus, from seven to nine feet in length, on the larger end of which is a small roll of tapa. The exhibition was in the fort, where several soldiers had prepared themselves for the exercise. One of them placed himself at a distance of fifteen or twenty paces from three or four others, who endeavoured to hit him. He evaded the spears by throwing his body on one side, stooping, and dodging, in a very graceful manner. After this they were ordered to divide, and began throwing at each other, until, when one or two had been hit rather severely, the contest waxed warm, and blows were dealt without much ceremony, until the combatants came to close quarters, when the sport ended in a scuffle, which it required the authoritative voice of the governor to terminate.

This scene was highly amusing, and was the only occasion during my stay at the islands, in which I saw any temper shown, or any disposition to fight. The natives, indeed, are remarkably good-tempered ; and many persons long resident here stated to me they very seldom quarrelled with each other. I have observed that when they see another in a passion they generally laugh, although they themselves may be the object of it.

In the latter part of October, when the Vincennes had nearly finished her repairs, it was discovered that her foremast was so rotten as to make it necessary to take it out and rebuild it on shore. By using one of the spare topmasts and purchasing a spar, we succeeded in rebuilding it. The cheeks and trestle-trees of the Peacock's mast had also to be replaced in consequence of decay. These were vexatious occurrences, occupying the little time we had to spare, and making it uncertain whether we should be able to perform the remainder of our work. Fortunately, we found at Honolulu good workmen, disposed to afford us all the assistance in their power, and being also well provided ourselves with carpenters, we were enabled to overcome these difficulties in time, though at considerable expense.

Among our other duties, a court-martial became necessary. The services we were engaged in had rendered it impossible to convene one prior to our arrival here; and if it had not been for the imperative necessity of making an example in the case of two marines on board the Peacock, I should have been inclined still to defer it from want of time. Besides the two marines, there was an unruly fellow by the name of Sweeny, an Englishman, who had been shipped in the tender at New Zealand, and was at times so riotous on board my ship, that I determined to try him also. A court composed of the oldest officers of the squadron sentenced them "to be flogged at such time and place as the commander of the squadron might think proper." Understanding from our consul that the sailors of the whaling fleet, as is most generally the case, were disposed to be disorderly, and my interference having been several times asked for, I thought it a good opportunity to show the crews of all these vessels that authority to punish offences existed. I therefore ordered the sentence of the court to be put into execution publicly, after the usual manner in such cases; a part of the punishment to be inflicted at each vessel, diminishing very much its extent in the cases of the two marines. At the time of the infliction of the punishment I received a letter (for which see Appendix IV.) from the most respectable portion of the crew, requesting Sweeny's discharge, and stating that he was a troublesome character. To insure his dismissal, they offered to pay all the debts he might owe to the government. As he had no claim on the squadron or flag, which, I was afterwards told, he had frequently cursed, and as he had been only six months in the squadron (having joined it with scarce a shirt to his back), I resolved to comply with the men's request, and sent him out of the squadron at once, with his bag and hammock, far better off than when he joined us. The ship became orderly again, having got rid of one of the greatest of the many rascals who are found roaming about Polynesia.

This act, together with the legal punishment of the marines for refusing to do duty, when their time of service had not expired, was another of the many complaints brought against me on my return.

I have obtained a copy of the enlistment of the marines, (which will be found in Appendix V.,) that it may be seen whether it was, or was not, my duty to hold control over these men. The signing of the roll of enlistment took place before I took command of the squadron. The original document was on file in the Navy Department, when the judge advocate of the court was endeavouring to prove there was no such document in existence.

The men's time of liberty having expired, they were again received

on board, heartily sick of their frolic. They were remarkably orderly and well-behaved while on shore, and indeed the police is so efficient that it would have been impossible for them to be riotous, if so disposed, without finding themselves prisoners in the fort. I must here do Governor Kekuanaoa the justice to say, that he performs the part of a most excellent and energetic magistrate, and while he insists on others conforming to the laws, he is equally mindful of them himself. His fault, if he errs, lies in carrying them into effect too quickly and without sufficient examination. An instance of this fell under my observation, which will be spoken of at a future time.

The usual amusements for visiters in Honolulu, are billiards, bowling-alleys, riding, and visiting. There are but few vehicles, and in consequence of the want of roads, these can go no further than the eastern plain, which is but a short distance. A road for wheel-carriages might be constructed from one end of the island to the other without difficulty, and with little expense; and this is the only island of the group where it would be practicable from end to end.

The roads for horses are mere foot-paths, which at times pass over very difficult places, that by a short turn might be avoided, and with a great saving of labour. This, however, never seems to enter a native's head, and the neglect to improve the roads is akin to his irrational expedient of doubling his load by adding stones as a counterpoise, instead of dividing his bundle.

Desirous of having as thorough an examination made of all the islands of the group as possible, and the repairs of the tender being completed, I put Mr. Knox in charge of her, and sent her with several of the naturalists to Kauai, with instructions to land them, on their return, on the west side of Oahu, for its examination.

They left Honolulu on the 25th of October, and experiencing light winds, did not reach Kauai, although distant only a few hours' sail, until the morning of the 27th, when they were landed at Koloa, on the southeast side of that island. Here a heavy sea was rolling. After the vessel anchored, some canoes came off, and the people pointed out a good landing in a small rocky cove, that appeared as though it had once been a large cavern, whose top had fallen in.

On landing, they entered an extensive level plain, bounded by a ridge of mountains, and cultivated in sugar-cane and mulberries. Captain Stetson has an establishment here built of adobes, but these are not found to be adapted to the climate. The environs of Koloa afford some pasturage; the soil is good, though dry and very stony; the grass and foliage, however, looked luxuriant. About two miles from Koloa, Captain Stetson has his silk establishment, consisting of

mulberry-grounds, cocoonery, &c. Our gentlemen were kindly received by Messrs. Stetson, Peck, Burnham, and others.

Agreeably to instructions, the naturalists divided themselves into three parties-one, consisting of Dr. Pickering and Mr. Brackenridge, was to cross over the centre of the island, from Waimea to Halelea, observing the botany of the high ground; another, comprising, Messrs. Peale and Rich, was to proceed along the coast on its eastern side; and the third party, Messrs Dana and Agate, intended to pursue an intermediate course, to view the scenery, geological formation, &c. The schooner was in the mean time to make some examinations of the roadsteads and small harbours of the island.

There were two old craters near the beach, which were visited. Only a few trees were observed. On the low wet grounds are taropatches and fish-ponds. Among the few interesting plants were a species of Daphne, a Cleome, and some Sidas. The garden of Captain Stetson contained several ornamental plants, brought from St. Catharine's, Brazil. The garden had a pretty appearance, being enclosed with a hedge of ti plants (Dracæna), set closely together, about five feet in height, topped with thin, wide-spreading leaves, while the walks were bordered with Psilotum instead of box.

The mulberry trees do not produce well here, being subject to blight, and requiring great attention. This is thought to be owing to the dryness of the strong trade-winds that constantly blow, and which have parted with their moisture in passing over the high lands of Oahu, lying directly to windward.

The silk is reeled by native women. The specimens seen appeared of good quality, but were not reeled sufficiently fine, or with that attention to economy which is necessary to its profitable cultivation. It is thought it will prove a good article for the Mexican market, for use in saddlery.

From what I understood at Honolulu, this silk establishment, having been formed on too expensive a scale, has been a failure, and the capital, or original outlay, is considered as entirely sunk. The possibility of success is not doubted by those who have failed; but these silk establishments should begin by small outlays and be gradually extended by the investment of the profits.

About a mile back from the landing is the mission-house, and the sugar establishment of Messrs. Ladd & Co., with a well-made road leading to it. Beyond this, on the brow of the hill, is situated the house of Mr. Peck, enjoying as fine a prospect as is to be found in these islands. Around his establishment, in native-built houses, are the cocooneries.