stream above the fall, the valley beneath is filled with them; the most conspicuous was the pandanus. The whole scene is picturesque. Below, the falls present a very curious appearance, the wind continually breaking and dispersing the water in heavy showers over a great variety of ferns, which are growing in the crevices of the rocks. The volume of water does not exceed ten hogsheads a minute. In the basin beneath were found many fine specimens of Neritina granulata, and two other species were found further down the stream, about four feet below the surface: these were procured by diving. Mr. Rich obtained specimens of the plants. Mr. Peale found but few birds; ducks were abundant on the river's banks, some of which were killed. Rushes were growing along the banks from eight to ten feet in length, four or five feet under the water; besides these, the banks were covered with hibiscus and ricinus (castor-oil trees), growing wild.

Returning to Deborah's, where they remained for the night, they met Messrs. Dana and Agate. Deborah entertained them in "white style," at a table set with knives, forks, &c., and gave them tea and sugar. Their bed was native, and composed of a platform of about twelve feet square, covered with mats. This proved comfortable, with tapa as a covering in lieu of linen.

The next morning, they started for Waioli and Halelea. The country on the way is of the same character as that already seen. They passed the small villages of Kupau, Kealia, Anehola, Mowaa, and Kauharaki, situated at the mouths of the mountain streams, which were closed with similar sand-bars to those already described. These bars afforded places to cross at, though requiring great precaution when on horseback. The streams above the bars were in most cases deep, wide, and navigable a few miles for canoes. Besides the sugar

cane, taro, &c., some good fields of rice were seen. The country may be called open; it is covered with grass formning excellent pasture-grounds, and abounds in plover and turnstones, scattered in small flocks.

On their way they passed through a beautiful grove of tutui-nut trees, in which the Rev. Mr. Alexander is in the habit of preaching to the natives. These trees are large, and form a delightful shade. There are few places in the open air so well calculated to hold divine service in, and it is well fitted to create feelings of religion. The view, by Mr. Agate, will give a good idea of it.

These nut-trees grow with great luxuriance on this island; and an excellent oil is expressed from the nut, which already forms an export from these islands. We heard here, that at New York, it

was pronounced superior to linseed-oil for painting. There is a manufactory of it at Honolulu; but I understood that it dried with difficulty. It is said to bring one dollar per gallon on the coast of South America. The native candle is made of these nuts strung upon a straw; they are likewise roasted and eaten.

Before reaching Waioli, they passed through a forest of pandanus trees. Waioli is a mission station, the residence of the Rev. Mr. Alexander, by whom they were very kindly received. This district is called Halelea. Waioli is on the north side of Kauai. The plain on which it is situated is only six or eight feet above the level of the sea, and lies between the Halelea and Waioli rivers. Though of small extent, it is one of the most fertile spots of which these islands can boast.

The Halelea district comprises a large proportion of arable land: it extends to the distance of twenty miles to the eastward of Waioli; the portion, however, which lies to the westward is of a totally different description, being broken up into precipices and ravines, affording no inducements to the agriculturist, and having very few spots susceptible of cultivation; its extent is about fifteen miles. The eastern portion is watered by at least twenty streams; many of these are large enough to be termed rivers, and might be employed to turn machinery. It is elevated from three to eight hundred feet above the sea, and comprises about fifty thousand acres of land, capable of producing sugar-cane, cotton, indigo, coffee, corn, beans, the mulberry, and vegetables in every variety. It now produces taro, sweet-potatoes, yams, bread-fruit, bananas, plantains, squashes, melons, beans, Indian corn, and cocoa-nuts. Sugar-cane grows spontaneously. Mulberry trees flourish, of which there are four kinds, the Chinese, the multicaulis, the white, and the black: the latter variety has a small leaf. The vegetation is extremely luxuriant from the frequent rains. The sugar-cane, and mulberry, both Chinese and multicaulis, are the staple articles of culture. The mulberry has here a most rapid growth, and being sheltered from the strong winds, it succeeds well. Some of the leaves of the multicaulis are of the enormous size of fifteen inches in length by twelve in breadth. Mr. Titcomb has a large plantation of both kinds, and an extensive cocoonery in operation. He has succeeded in making silk of excellent quality, both for the loom and sewing. He gives his personal attention to this business, and began in a small way. I understood that he had succeeded in it. His greatest difficulty is the unsteady labour of the natives, and he also experiences, at times, difficulty in preserving the worms. The silk is procured from the American worm and a cross-breed between the Chinese and American. The

yield of the latter is fine and of a pale yellow or orange silk; of the former the colour is white, and much coarser.

Indigo is produced in the valley of Halelea, and grows well. Mr. Alexander had some growing, but his plants, from being allowed to get too high, have become woody and scraggy, and produce very indifferent foliage. The manufacture of indigo is not understood in the Sandwich Islands, although the plant flourishes so well there that it has run wild, and with proper knowledge and attention, in the opinion of our botanists, might produce a profitable crop.

The tutui-nut tree (Aleurites triloba) is very abundant, several thousand acres being covered with forests of it. The island abounds in very many excellent woods for the cabinet-maker, joiner, and shipbuilder; of which I received a large number of specimens, presented to the Expedition by Mr. Ladd, of Oahu, who was kind enough to order the collection to be made by his partner at Koloa.

The rivers, as well as sea, abound in excellent fish, and afford a plentiful harvest to the fisherman.

Goats, hogs, and poultry of all kinds are raised, but there is no market nearer than Koloa or Oahu for their sale; these, whenever possible, are resorted to.

The climate, as to temperature, is about three degrees cooler than the other side of the island: the range of the thermometer, from January to May, was from 56° to 82°; sometimes it has been known to fall as low as 52°, and rise as high as 87°. The inhabitants never suffer from heat, and the rains are so frequent as to clothe the country in perpetual green. It rains nearly nine months in the year, and, from the rainbows formed by these passing showers, it has obtained its name, which signifies the land or place of rainbows, Halelea. A few days of dry weather are quite unusual. During three months, included in the above nine, rain fell on fifty-two days; fourteen were cloudy. During the remaining twenty-four the weather was clear, but it rained occasionally at night.

Our gentlemen made several excursions back of Halelea with Mr. Alexander, and endeavoured to ascend the peaks; but the rain prevented their doing so. They obtained many interesting specimens of plants and birds, among the former of which were a number of ferns.

On the 1st of November they attended Mr. Alexander's church. The congregation was composed of about four hundred. They were all much struck with the dress of the native women, its unusual neatness and becoming appearance. It seemed remarkable that so many of them should be clothed in foreign manufacture, and that apparently

of an expensive kind; but on a closer examination, the dresses proved to be tapas, printed in imitation of merino shawls, ribands, &c.

The tender making her appearance in the harbour, our gentlemen received notice to repair on board in the evening. Mr. Knox had circumnavigated the island, and made surveys of its small harbours: there are none of these fit for a vessel to ride in; that of Waimea, as I said before, is the safest, but Halelea is frequently used; and although much exposed to the winds, it has more pretension to the name of a harbour, than the rest. It is remarkable from having been the place where the pride of Salem, "Cleopatra's Barge," was wrecked. The west coast of the island was found destitute of harbours or anchorage, having a perpendicular cliff rising from the sea for the greatest part of the distance.

The Halelca river is navigable for canoes about three miles; it is from one to two hundred feet wide, has but little current, and is slightly affected by the tide near its mouth.

The highest point on the island, which is estimated at six thousand feet is called Wailioli. Mr. Alexander stated, that it had been ascended on its eastern side from Waioli. I regretted afterwards I had not despatched officers to ascend it, but our naval duties were so pressing upon all, that I found it impossible to spare any one at the time I ordered the party to Kauai. I also partly indulged the hope, that those who were to cross over the centre of the island, would have been led near it, and thus tempted to make the ascent. From the information I have received, it is supposed to have a crater on its summit, like many of the other high mountains in the group. It is said, that when the weather is clear, the natives ascend it for the purpose of getting a view of Oahu, one hundred miles distant.

The population of this district has been for several years decreasing, and Mr. Alexander estimates the decrease to be one-hundredth annually for the last nine years. In 1837, the population was 3024; the proportion of the sexes was-males, 1609; females, 1415. In 1840, population, 2935-males, 1563; females, 1372.

The census taken in 1840, is no doubt much more accurate than any heretofore made, and as far as the ability of the king's officers go, it may be depended upon. Mr. Alexander is inclined to impute the decrease to former licentiousness, as well as to the barrenness of the Those who have children, lose them at a premature age, and abortion is produced sometimes, from fear of the pains of parturition. Mr. Alexander has known of only five cases of the latter description within six years, the time of his residence here; so that this latter

women.