SOLUTIONS TO MY LAST.

13. Because all his works are wicked, and all his wicked works are brought to light.

14. Wet.

15. A hat.

16. They are in Sects. (Insects.)

17. Love.

18. A kiss.

B. BLACK.

THE LADIES' TOILET.

FASHIONS REPRESENTED IN THE ENGRAVINGS.

EVENING DRESS.-A dress of lavender satin, with a very broad flounce round the border, headed by two very narrow flounces falling over each other. Body quite plain, with a broad falling tucker of white blond: the sleeves very short and full. The hair arranged in curls and bows, with three full-blown roses on the left side. Ear-pendants and necklace of pearls.

WALKING DRESS.-A dress of stone-colored gros de Naples, bordered by two flounces: the body plain, with sleeves a la Marie. A muslin pelerine is worn with this dress, trimmed round with broad lace, and surmounted at the throat by a full ruff of lace. The hat is of pink gros de Naples, trimmed with ribbon of the same color.

CURSORY REMARKS ON THE LAST NEW FASHIONS.

Though our nobility have most of them retired to their country seats, and the sportsmen have quitted London for the shooting-season, yet the cold and unpleasant weather has caused many genteel families not only to remain in town, but actually to return to it, after their experiencing the unpropitious, and almost freezing, temperature of the country.

Yet these are birds of fashion which, we are well assured, will migrate again at the flattering appearance of a few fine days, which often cheer us even at the advanced season of October; while, however, they remain among us, we will

sketch the most prevalent style of their dress, and the information we have received from them concerning the important intelligence of fashion's changes.

The gowns still continue to be made very short, very full, and are pleated all round the waist at the commencement of the skirt, in equal fulness In spite of the chill weather, white dresses predominate much, both in the town as well as the country; the embroidery on the flounces and borders of of these dresses is superb: the flounces are worked in diamonds or chains of open-work, and have the appearance of rich lace; broad borders admirably executed in satin stitch, or the lighter feather-stitch, render these expensive dresses fit for the evening party, as well as for demi-parure. Dark chintzes of beautiful patterns are much worn as morning dishabille, or as retired home costume. Dresses of darkcolored gros de Naples, particularly those of a deep claretcolor, or of an Etruscan-brown, are in "high favor for halfdress; they are made partially low, with the body en gerbe, or quite plain; when the latter, it is generally trimmed with Castillan points of black velvet round the tucker part. When silks are worn at dinner and evening parties, they are most admired when of gros des Indes. Striped gauze dresses are much in favor for balls; they have a broad hem at the border, headed by a flounce of blond, falling over: these gauzes are not always striped, but are sometimes figured in various ways, the figures and the ground being always of the same color.

Dress hats are generally white, and are ornamented with white plumage young ladies at dress parties wear on their hair detached bouquets of flowers: the hair is arranged in various ways; very often a l'enfant, especially when ornamented; but this style is only fit for very young persons, and agrees well with that simplicity of dress, generally observed by them in the country. We are happy to see the English ladies again inclining to the mode of adopting their own exclusive becoming fashions; the cork-screw ringlets have been much laid aside, since they became so universally worn in France. The caps are chiefly in the turban style, and are formed of tulle in bias, with the flowers with which they are ornamented lying on the hair in front; those caps of blond, which are not in the turban form, yet have very much their appearance when on the head: the border is

excessively broad, and turned quite back; beneath it, on the hair, is a branch of foliage, and some full-blown flower of a bright color generally a rose; the same kind of flower ornaments the crown at the back.

Oriental shawls for out-door costume are much in request, and our own beautiful manufacture, named Thibet shawls, present themselves in rivalry, and appear to excite almost equal admiration. The pelisses have very wide sleeves, but the monstrous fashion has its advantages, for it can be easily remedied;" a consummation devoutly to be wished." We followed a lady, a few mornings ago in Pall-mall, who was also followed by a footman in a richly laced livery: had she not been so disguised, she might, perhaps, have been a pretty little figure, that is as it may be; as it was, she was literally as broad as she was long: her pelisse, of a beautiful dovecolored satin, had sleeves, which it was impossible to pass, even on that wide pavement, without touching them; the pelisse, moreover, was pleated very full round the waist, and the skirt very short. A large muslin pelerine, laid in plaits and flutings, made her back look as broad as that of any porter, and her bonnet, of pink gros de Naples, was enormous :surely these are not the elegancies of fashion! Nothing could appear so ridiculous as this young Englishwoman, whose face, what little we could see of it, was passable enough; what her figure was, as we said before, we cannot tell;-she looked altogether a fright! It is extraordinary that well-made, finelooking figures, who might take some little liberty with their forms, are the last to run into these foolish extremes, and the silk pelisses, now worn in walking costume, are very beautiful; the sleeves are certainly rather too wide at the top of the arm, but the pelisse is handsomely trimmed with a ruche, where it fastens down the skirt, and sometimes the pelisse, by its bias folds and rouleaux, appears to be made en tunique,—and this is a tasteful and elegant way of finishing this useful outdoor dress.

Colored silk bonnets are much the vogue; the colors increase in refulgency as the summer declines; thus the blue bonnets are of the brightest etherial, and the pink, a decided rose-color: these kind of bonnets, with those of satin, will most likely last through the autumn, for we can expect little novelty till the black velvet head-coverings make their appear

ance. Transparent bonnets of white crape, with pink linings, are still seen in carriages. The bonnets, though large, are well formed, and are not very unbecoming; they are short at the ears, which fashion is suited to almost every countenance. The hats fly much off the face,-they therefore require much ornament under the brim, and a broad blond or a demi-veil at the edge is absolutely requisite. Flowers are not universally worn on hats or bonnets;-when they are adopted, it is in profusion; and they are then seen, grouped together in front of the crown, in a kind of diadem, formed of flowers of almost every kind, but little or no foliage.

The most admired colors are Etruscan-brown, claretcolor, sea-green, etherial-blue, pink, and bright jonquil.

PARISIAN FASHIONS.

FRENCH HOME COSTUME.-A pelisse dress of lilac gros de Naples; the body made quite plain, with sleeves a l'imbecille, confined at the wrist by a tight cuff, surmounted by a very full triple quilling of white lace. A French ruff of lace encircles the neck, just below the throat. A cap is worn with this dress, of rich blond, with a broad border, turned back, and ornamented next the hair with branches of roses and green foliage, and the flowers of a shrub of the frutrix kind, known by the name of fox-tails. Strings of rose-color float loose.

PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS.-A dress of white muslin, with a broad hem, surmounted by a border of beautiful embroidery. The corsage a l'Edith, and over the shoulders a pelerine with full lace trimming: this pelerine is left open in front, and the points, which taper off till they become extremely narrow, are confined under the sash, where they terminate. The sash is of corn-flower-blue ribbon, brocaded in a Greek pattern of scarlet and white, and fastens in front with a gold buckle. A ruff surrounds the throat, fastened in front with a bow of Aurora-colored ribbon. The sleeves are a l'imbecille, with a narrow tight cuff, surmounted by a quilling of lace. A hat of white gros de Naples is worn with this dress, and is ornamented with blue and white garden-poppies, and a white blond veil.

CURSORY REMARKS ON THE LAST FRENCH FASHIONS.

Dresses of white organdy, embroidered in different colors, are much worn at public balls: fringe is much used in the trimming of all dresses, and this elegant appendage is of beautiful workmanship. At a late sitting of the Institute were seen dresses of striped cot-pali, and of spotted barêge: those flowers, which were embroidered, had the embroidery disposed in chevrons at the back, and at the front of the bust. India muslin, with a border of gold embroidery, forms an admired dress at bals-pares. The mancherons are edged in the same style, as is the tucker part of the corsage: the sleeves are in the form of the Persian drapery sleeves, open all the way in front, and merely caught together at the top by a single gold button. A dress of gres de Naples of Indian green is much admired as an evening dress for married ladies; it is trimmed at the border by a bias broad hem and a deep feather fringe as high as the knee. Dresses of brown, or gray, and other such retired colors, are worn in half-dress, or in home costume. The French ladies are so fond of the clear printed muslins, to which they have given the name of fragaletta, that they wear them at concerts, and other assemblies: they have white, or very light colored grounds, figured over in a pattern of green-leaves and wood-strawberries. A canezonpelerine of tulle, splendidly embroidered, is worn on the above occasions with these kind of dresses; and a plat of red, white, and green, marks out the edge of the hem as high as the knee.

Cachemire shawls are favorite envelops in promenade costume; the newest are in checquered patterns, the checquers formed of numerous hair stripes: several of these shawls have been sent to Paris, from Pekin in China. Pelisses of organdy and of jacanot muslin are yet worn; the sleeves are immensely large, and are opened all the way down the arm, and closed again by a double row of gold buttons; the belt, the cuffs, and the ruff round the throat, are all fastened by double buttons. Canezon muslin spencers continue to be worn with petticoats of gros de Naples. For the morning walks, both at Paris and in the country, ladies, who follow the extremes of fashion, wear pelisses a la maitresse, of jacanot muslin, with a blue ground, or pink, or chamoiscolor, with a cambric petticoat: these pelisses have a double