glass structures, walks, views, and furniture, so to speak, of the establishment of Messrs. E. G. Henderson & Son's, in which may now be seen the finest collection of spring-flowering bulbs in full bloom-a circumstance which, we believe, induced Her Majesty and suite to take several drives down the Wellington Road this time last year.

REPORT ON THE GARDEN PEAS,
GROWN AT CHISWICK DURING 1860.

By ROBERT HOGG, LL.D., F.R.H.S., Secretary to the Fruit
Committee.

(Continued from page 63.)

37. Burbidge's Eclipse ...NOBLE, COOPER, & BOLTON. SYN: Stubbs' Dwarf.

The plant is a dwarf but robust grower, from 18 inches to 2 feet high. The foliage is dark green, slightly blotched. The stem is always simple, and produces from ten to twelve pods, which are generally in pairs, rarely single. They contain from five to six Peas, which are of good size, and closely packed. The ripe seed is large, uneven, oval, and of a blue colour. Sown February 19th; bloomed June 13th; slatted June 25th; and fit for use July 13th.

This is the dwarfest of all the blue Peas, and is an excellent

bearer.

38. Flack's Imperial ....NOBLE, COOPER, & BOLTON.

SYN: Flack's Victory; Flack's Victoria.

This variety, introduced about ten or twelve years ago as an improvement on Bedman's Imperial, appears now to represent the varieties formerly known as Blue Imperial, and Bedman's Imperial, and deservedly so, for it is the only one of the name really worth growing when true, and it requires careful selection to keep it so, from its tendency to degenerate into Blue Prussian. The plant is of a robust habit of growth, with a stem which is always branching, and generally about 3 feet high, producing dark green blotched foliage. The pods are from twelve to eighteen on a plant, generally in pairs, but frequently single, and contain from six to eight very large Peas, which are of an ovate shape, about half an inch long and seven-twentieths broad. The ripe seed is large, irregularly oval, and dark blue. Sown February 19th; bloomed June 13th; slatted June 26th; and fit for use July 14th.

39. Banksian Marrow... FRASER, RICHARDSON, & Goad. This is evidently a form of the Scimitar, but with a less curved pod, and partaking a good deal of the character of an Imperial. The plant grows to the same height as both of these, and the pods come into use also at the same time. Though a good sort it is not materially distinct, and does not possess any superior

merit.

SYN: Blue Sabre; Scimitar. The plant is a strong, robust grower 2 feet to 3 feet high, generally with a simple stem, but sometimes branching, and having dark green blotched foliage. The stem bears from twelve to eighteen pods, which are also of a dark green colour, and very much curved and flattened. They are produced generally in pairs, and contain on an average nine to ten Peas in each. The ripe seed is irregularly oval and dark blue.

Sown February 19th; bloomed June 16th; slatted June 28th; and ready for use July 16th.

This is an old variety, and now very much grown by farmers and market-gardeners as a field crop, for the supply of the markets of large towns, the fine large dark green pods always commanding a ready sale. It is very prolific, and is without doubt one of the best varieties for culture on a large scale; but it is one which is very liable to degenerate, and demands very careful attention to preserve a pure stock.

VI. WHITE KNIGHT'S PEAS.

Ripe seed white, compressed and wrinkled. Foliage most frequently dark green and much blotched; but occasionally light green, slightly or not at all blotched.

41. Fairbeard's Nonpareil... NOBLE, COOPER, & BOLTON. The plant is of a free but not vigorous growth, resembling the

Early Frames both in habit and in foliage, the latter being light green and not blotched. The stems are branching, 34 feet to 4 feet high, and producing twelve to fourteen very full and plump pods, which are generally in pairs, and contain six to eight very closely packed Peas. The ripe seed is small, white, and wrinkled. Sown February 19th; bloomed June 14th; slatted June 25th; and fit for use July 6th.

This is an early and very productive Pea, and comes into use at the same time as the Early Frames and the Early Ringwood. The Peas, however, are small, and as a wrinkled variety it is now surpassed by Advancer, which is earlier, and produces larger pods and Peas. (To be continued.)

BLIND BLOOMS OF KEENS' SEEDLING.

IN answer to "C. H. C.," I can tell him for his satisfaction that a few years ago I was precisely similarly circumstanced with regard to the blooming of my Keens'. I had administered The powerful manures, and I felt sure I had overdone it. plants showed remarkable vigour, and for their colour, and growth, were considered wonderful. I allowed them to remain, occasionally forking amongst them, and giving a liberal supply of water in June. The following year I had the pleasure of seeing the same vigour and colour accompanied by large clusters of bloom, which formed and ripened into beautiful fruit. I would say to "C. H. C.," Do not despair; if all goes on well you will be amply repaid next year.-W. P. D.

EVERGREENS FOR BACK WALL OF A VINERY OR GREENHOUSE.

Each of

MANY inquiries have been sent you from time to time as to vinery: therefore, I imagine my case to be that of many others. the most suitable plant for the back wall of a greenhouse or At one time of the year the back wall of my greenhouse or vinery (it serves me for both purposes) is shaded entirely, and is therefore unsuited to the growth of ornamental climbers, such as Passiflora Buonaparteana or Mandevilla suaveolens. these plants I have tried in its turn, and each has been most reluctantly discarded, on account of their not maturing their growth, and a tendency to red spider, which I found it impossible to keep under while my Grapes were in bloom; and the syringe was consequently laid aside. For twelve months past I have grown a fine plant of Heliotrope, and it has succeeded tolerably well. I am afraid, however, of my old enemy, the red spider, during the ensuing summer, as I believe that the last season was favourable to my purpose, and I escaped in consequence.

I shall be obliged by your stating if, in your opinion, I should succeed better with Magnolia fuscata. My house, measuring 20 feet by 10 feet, faces to the south, is about a mile from the sea, and being on a chalky subsoil is consequently very hot in the summer season.-BRIGHTON.

[We do not think the Magnolia will do in your case. If the back wall has any light at all through the Vines, Camellias would do well and flower well all the winter, when the Vines were bare. If the shade, however, is dense in summer, and you merely want a green wall, then we would recommend a plant of either-or one of each-of the Cissus antarctica, and the Cissus capensis ; either would soon cover the space; two would do it sooner. There is a conservatory at Gorhambury, the south roof is glass, a large hipped roof facing the north is plastered inside; and with a mantle of green. When established, it may be cut pretty one of these plants as far as we recollect, covers the back wall well as freely as ivy.]

THE FLORAL MAGAZINE for May contains plates of three annuals Celosia cristata, or the crimson-feathered Cockscomb, flowered; and a plate of Verbenas, one of which - Grand the tricoloured branching Larkspur, and striped Peony Eastern, looks almost like its great namesake amongst a party of smaller steamers. It is a noble-looking flower, though deficient in brightness of colour.

"Errors like that of Don are so frequently repeated and difficult of correction when once made, that I trust you will excuse my calling your attention to the answer in question.ALEX. SMITH, Kew."

PINE-APPLE CULTURE.

A FEW years ago in THE COTTAGE GARDENER you drew attention, in an interesting series of articles, to the Hamiltonian system of growing Pines. That system must have long ere this been well proved by the great Pine growers of the country. As I am now starting a new house with pits to be heated by hot water, I should be glad of your advice as to whether it is expedient to grow Pines wholly, or in part, on the plan which Mr. Hamilton adopted.

I would ask, therefore, How are Pines now grown at Trentham, Chatsworth, and other places, where once the Hamiltonian system was tried? If so, and you approve of it, how am I to proceed when I obtain suckers?

Tan is expensive with us, I should therefore like to discard the use of it. Will my two hot-water pipes (4 inches) with 3 inches of rubble covered with loose slates and then 20 inches of soil, do in a pit 5 feet wide for growing the Pines or for plunging the pots ?-PINE APPLE.

[So far as known to us, no new experiments on Pine-Apple culture will interfere with the general and particular directions to which our correspondent refers. We are unable personally to state the plan generally adopted at Chatsworth and Trentham now, perhaps some correspondent will supply our deficiency until we have an opportunity of personal observation. When we saw these places a number of years ago only a very small portion were grown on the Hamiltonian system. At Trentham, so far as we recollect, we never saw such stiff, short, hardleaved, bushy, dwarf plants, and producing for their size such fine first-rate fruit. These results we attributed to the plants being near the glass, receiving abundance of top and bottom heat, plenty of air, plenty of atmospheric moisture when necessary, and to being planted out in a bed of fine fresh sod soil, partly charred and mixed with charcoal before being used. We noticed little of the pure Hamiltonian system. The plants were turned out when good-sized rooted suckers. When the fruit was cut one or two suckers were allowed to remain on the stool, and encouraged to grow freely by water and heat, and when well grown the sucker with its roots was removed and potted and plunged, and as that got full of roots it was brought to replace the stools removed, fresh soil being placed all round it. Nothing could answer better than the plan of Mr. Fleming's when I saw it. I think he had a few on the Hamiltonian system-that is, the stools left with one, two, or more suckers, and the soil put round them, and the suckers yielding fruit in turn, and more suckers selected as the fruit were cut. A constant and regular supply of bottom heat is next to indispensable to success with this system. When we tried it a little we found that it had all the merits the enthusiastic projector claimed for it, the chief of which we consider to be the getting abundance of fruit at but little trouble in comparison of the potsuccession system. To obtain fruit in regular succession, and to have them thoroughly under command, I would advise all beginners to begin with the pot plan, and then if they like, to turn out strong plants in a bed of soil, so that they may be freely rooting in it before they begin to show fruit. We would turn out only when, as in your case, you can have bottom heat to a nicety. Whatever may be the reason, many of our best growers, though saying nothing against the Hamiltonian system, when they have to meet the regular wants of a family, are falling back more on the pot system entirely, or, at least, are turning out the plants after they have been grown in pots to a good size before they are turned out. A saving of room is thus effected, as the plants when young will not require half the When rough, fibry, half-charred loam is used, even young plants will move with fine balls; but, in general, it is safest to have them in pots, and if pots rather undersized for the suckers are used, we think they root quicker than when planted in a bed of warm soil.

space.

Mr. Ruffet, of Brockett Hall, Mr. Dawson, of Panshanger, and Mr. Beale, of Woodhall, so far as we recollect, grow chiefly in pots; but we are sure that either of these men would turn out first-rate fruit from either planting out ultimately, or planting

out at once.

As affording better means of moving, stirring the soil, and the plunging medium, we would advise all beginners to begin with pots, unless they are such experienced waterers that they could put a tiny Cape Heath a few inches high in an eight-inch pot and grow it into a fine specimen. Even when so grown it is an advantage to leave the suckers on the old stool as long as convenient. These will dispose of the three first questions until we have time to go more into the subject, and see more around us; as from the idea that the flavour of the fruit spoilt the flavour of the wine, we have grown none of late years.

The best sorts to grow for size we consider to be the White Providence, the Sugarloaf, and Enville. For size and flavour and early fruiting we prefer the Ripley Queen for spring and summer and autumn, and the Black Jamaica for winter, and the Smooth Antigua for any time, and a few others for variety.

The suckers promised you in autumn, if strong, 15 inches long, potted in six pots in rough loam and a little leaf mould in September, plunged into a bottom heat of 90°, will make nice-rooted plants before the new year, or thereabouts. The forwardest of these placed into nine-inch pots in February grown on will be fit to go into twelve-inch or fourteen-inch pots in June, and if encouraged will come in early in the season of 1863, the smaller and weaker ones coming in in the summer and autumn. Everything depends on the size and the condition of the sucker. We have taken strong plant suckers from a stool in September, potted them with a ball, and started them into fruit in March or April. Unless the suckers you receive have come no great distance and are not extra large in size and with roots attached to them, what you receive in September or October, 1861, could hardly be expected to ripen fine fruit before the spring and summer of 1863.

For reasons given we would prefer potting such, and if tan is not to be had, there might be a foot or 15 inches of tree leaves. Both are useful to the plants from the decomposition of carbon they throw into the atmosphere of the house. This is increased by sprinkling the plunging medium when dry with liquid manure without watering the plants if they do not require it. The two pipes will give heat enough for bottom heat for a five-foot bed. Openings, such as drain-pipes, should be left, so that at times you can pour manure water down among your rubble, and thus nourish with rich vapour the lower roots of the plants, when it might be undesirable, as in cold, dull weather, to wet the soil much in which the plants are growing, whether in pots or planted. The rougher, more fibry, and open the material used for growing the plants, though closely pressed, the more freely may clear manure waterings be given in the growing and swelling seasons.-R. FISH.]

80

GROUND THERMOMETER.—We have had submitted for our inspection what appears to be an instrument of great usefulness to the gardener. It is a Ground Thermometer, invented and made by Mr. Casella, of Hatton Garden, who has already introduced several cheap and useful philosophical apparatuses for gardening purposes. The annexed figure furnishes a good representation of this instrument, which consists of a piece of stout ash wood hollowed out in the centre, into which a thermometer is introduced. From the upper part of this piece of wood a champfer is cut on which the graduated scale is fixed, and the lower end is shod with a tip of thick brass. The purposes to which this instrument is applicable are various. It serves the ordinary purposes of a thermometer; but its special use is to test the temperature of the soil by thrusting it as deep as possible into the earth; to ascertain the temperature of the bottom heat of dung, bark, or hot-water beds; and it is also used as a dibber for planting or pricking out of small plants. It appears to us to be a very handy instrument, and the price being 4s. 6d., it is within the reach of those who follow gardening either as a pleasure or a profession.

PHENOMENA OF THE SEASON.-What a severe frost we had here (Woodstock) last night (May 8th). I took care to be before the sun with my Asparagus this morning, by cutting every head and casting them into cold water to thaw, which it did

without detriment to them. My neighbours' Potatoes are all "laid flat;" so I gain a point there, as my own, on my system, do not appear above ground for a week to come. Seven shoots only of my Esperiones are injured by the frost. My Vines are breaking very well and promising; but I long to behold the finish of this "Black-thorn winter." The drones appeared in my apiary today, which is with me ten days earlier than usual.-UPWARDS AND ONWARDS.

THE ROYAL

HORTICULTURAL

SOCIETY'S GARDEN AT KENSINGTON GORE. THE Society's new Garden at Kensington Gore is fast assuming form. The turfing is all but finished, and the last plantings are some noble-looking specimens of Araucaria imbricata, brought all the way from Exeter, with large balls tied and sewed up in strong mats. The large trees were bandaged up the trunks as high as to the branches with bands of hay or straw, and in dry weather they syringe the whole plant, bandage and all-an excellent plan-from early in April to the turn of the night after Midsummer.

The strike among the masons has hindered the completion of the canals and water-basins, but they are going on with them fast now. They put in concrete as for the foundation of a fortress, a foot deep, or nearly so, all over the bottom. It is then easy to build brickwork in cement over the sides of the large bed of concrete, and to finish sides and bottom in cement. That beats all clay puddling in cheapness, in duration, and in efficiency. I only wish the Londoners, great and small, could see that also as the cheapest way to make garden walks. My way of making walks is merely concreting 3 inches deep with chalk instead of lime, and with lime where chalk is not; then before the 3 inches of concrete are set, and after being well rolled, just to cover the surface with the eighth of an inch of the finest-sifted gravel, to roll immediately, and in three days they are as hard as the bottom of their canals and just as durable. A garden walk 6 feet wide and one mile long could be weeded for twelve months under 1s. the mile. I made the calculation in, the garden at Shrubland Park, where, if the gravel were reduced to the width of 6 feet there would be six miles of walks, and for some years the walks there cost only 5s. per aunum to weed them.

D. BEATON.

CULTURE OF THE PEACH-No. 1.. SOIL.-I propose in this and a few following communications, to offer some remarks on Peach culture, and the probable cause of success or failure in the different localities in which it is grown; and, as the subject is one of great importance to the gardening world, I will on the present occasion confine myself more especially to one of the conditions on which I base its well or ill doing-namely, the soil in which it is planted; and at a future opportunity will enter into the other features connected with it, as a tree more indebted to the cultivator for his assistance than any other that is capable of withstanding our English winters. As I have had several inquiries about the condition of the trees, and the crop of fruit the past season, I may so far depart from the intention I set out with of leaving that subject for another time, as to say that the crop was as abundant as in the generality of years, but the flavour was indifferent. In giving a description of the crops of wall fruit-which in the general acceptation of the term includes Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots it is common to refer to the general characteristics of the district for such fruits doing well or otherwise. Now, unfortunately, I cannot say the Peach and Nectarine are at home on the soils generally met with here (Linton); on the contrary, I have generally maintained that the Peach likes a soil and situation diametrically opposite to the one we often see it grown in. A Peach under very careful management may grow, and even seem to prosper in dry, chalky, or limestone soil; but its well-being is more due to the careful cultivation it receives, and the pains taken to guard it against the evils its situation entails upon it; but the time at length comes when some disease inherent in that soil will no longer be kept down, and, despite the able and energetic management of the cultivator, the tree perishes all at once, or is so much disfigured and injured by the attack it has received that it is no longer a useful tree. Generally some other agent than the soil it grows in receives the blame of this, and I do not by any means infer but that sometimes other causes will occasion the evils complained of: but I

certainly do think that an attack of insects, or of mildew, is rather the consequence of disease than the cause of it, and I regard the condition of the plant at the time it is attacked as of the most vital importance to know ere we decide on condemning the enemy that does not do the most harm. That soils have much to do with the welfare of all plants and fruits is well known, and that the Peach may be made to grow in a soil at variance with what it likes is also true; but, it cannot be made to grow so well in that soil, and consequently, cannot be in a position to endure the evils it is beset with in a climate so different from its native one. Some plants whose natural habitats are dry walls or other dry situations may be made to grow in swamps; but they do not grow so well in the latter place, and the same may be said of the Peach: consequently, we may infer that the Peach, too, has its favourite material to grow in, and the question is, Where is its locality and by what means are we to know it?

In entering on this subject it is hardly necessary to travel out of Great Britain, only so far as is necessary to refer to its doing so well in the central and southern States of the North American Union. In like manner we are told it is at home in Australia, and, I believe, is scattered freely over the western and part of. the centre of the great Asiatic Continent, and this region we are told is the native home of the Peach. But it is not necessary to trace it to its origin. Its cultivation in America may also be passed by; but as it is said to thrive so well in Australia, it is worth while taking a glance at the condition of the soil and other features there, to see in what way we may expect to copy it here. In some of those extensive tracts of land which consist of a thin black orust, rather than a fine mellow soil adapted to husbandry, the Peach is said to thrive and do well, even where many native trees and shrubs cease to do so: consequently, we must look for something either in the soil or climate, or both, to cause it to do so. The climate we cannot well imitate out of doors, and we still hope to hear of the Peach being successfully grown there: we must, therefore, endeavour to show how it is likely the soil we have may be made more congenial to it by as simple an addition to its component parts as well can be given; and as has been shown, the depth of soil is not always a criterion of its doing well at or near the antipodes, we must look to other conditions as well, and take a peep at the state of the water that drains from such a seil, and where we find it what is locally termed brackish and unfit to drink, a tolerable hint is thrown out what we may expect from a soil the chemical composition of which differs so widely from the one we are so much accustomed to plant the Peach tree in.

The readers of THE JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE will, perhaps, remember, that about three years ago I called attention to the excellent state the Peach trees were in at Knowsley, the princely seat of the Earl of Derby; and as that place is only some six or seven miles from the west coast, and from where the westerly gales frequently drive the salt spray so detrimental to so many things, but which I believe to be beneficial to the Peach, we may from this conclude that salt is a necessary ingredient in the soil which produces the Peach; and as I have also seen the Peach thrive remarkably well near the east coast, in a soil apparently widely different from the one at Knowsley and Lathom House, which I have more particularly described, I cannot but think that the saline particles which pervade the atmosphere have exercised some influence on the soil, and that both united are suited to the wants of the Peach. It is true that excellent Peach trees may be met with at great distances from the coast-in fact, in the interior of the kingdom; but salt is also found at other places than the seashore, and may not the soil in the neighbourhood be more or less impregnated with this article so as to become suitable to the growth of the fruit we now call attention to? and as all soils are not alike constituted, it is reasonable to suppose that the one which contains a greater proportion of salt than is generally met with, is the one most suited to the growth of this useful and yet somewhat capricious tree.

In the twentieth volume of THE COTTAGE GARDENER, page 71, a correspondent informs us that in the plains surrounding Buenos Ayres the Peach thrives with extraordinary vigour, in a soil that seems almost encrusted with salt after the heavy rains have subsided; and at page 58 of the same volume another correspondent speaks of the value of this much despised article as tending to improve the Peach; and as, has been before alluded to, the vigorous condition it is met with in Australia where the water is so bad, we may conclude that the salt pervading the district has much to do with its fertility, as well as spoiling the waters;: and, having arrived at that conclusion, it is not difficult to reduce

this theory to practice, for the article we have to deal with enters more easily into the composition of most things than almost any kind of manurial substance we know of; and we hope to hear of its being more extensively used as a renovator to trees falling into decay, or in preserving those that are healthy from going wrong.

In making the above comments on the Peach, I am well aware I am offering an opinion at variance with that of some eminent Peach growers. Our late talented writer on these matters, Mr. Errington, was of a different opinion, and thought the wellbeing of the Peach trees along the western coast line was owing to the greater amount of moisture the air is loaded with there than more eastward; and some writers attribute early or late frosts as the source of all their misfortunes with the Peach. Certain

it is that these circumstances have something to do in the matter, nevertheless I feel inclined to think the radical evil lies in the absence of that agent I have been advising the use of. And though many other untoward circumstances may be urged, and much useful knowledge obtained by the parties advocating different theories, or it may be practical results, coming forward and stating them in THE JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE; and if I am wrong I will frankly admit it; if otherwise, I trust those who have the means of giving this useful ingredient a fair trial on such soils as they are forced to plant their Peach trees in, will come forward and state the result; and at another time I will endeavour to explain what may be done to make soils which at present are antagonistic to the well-being of the Peach better adapted to its growth. J. ROBSON.

CONVOLVULUS

THIS pretty little half-shrubby Convolvulus is a native of the interior of northern Africa, where it was discovered by M. Séjourné, and first described by M. Boissier in his "Plantes d'Espagne."

The plant is of a trailing habit of growth, with long filiform flexuose stems, which are not branched, and entirely covered in every part with very minute soft white hairs. The leaves are

MAURITANICUS.

ovate, or roundish-ovate, an inch and a half long. The flowers are an inch to an inch and a quarter across, with a purplishblue limb, and a white centre and tube. They are produced one to three together on long slender footstalks from the axils of

every leaf; and these, coupled with the trailing habit of the plant, give it a graceful and ornamental appearance when grown in suspended pots or baskets.

During winter Convolvulus mauritanicus requires the protection of a pit or greenhouse. In spring, if cut back, it throws out a profusion of its long trailing shoots, and as the season advances it may be turned out as a bedding plant, or introduced into vases or on rockwork, where it keeps up a succession of bloom all through the season.

For growing in pots or suspended baskets and vases it is admirably adapted, its fine slender trailing habit being so applicable to that style of decoration.

Our figure was taken from a plant grown in the nursery of Messrs. E. G. Henderson & Son, of Wellington Road, St. John's Wood, from whose Catalogue we extract the following:

"A highly ornamental and drooping half-shrubby plant, of a neat, well-branched, and slender habit, with roundish-oblong leaves, and a profusion of very elegant light blue blossoms upwards of an inch in width, forming an admirable plant for suspended basket or vases; also an unique and effective bedding plant, or carpet-like belt, for surrounding flower-beds, and a charming object for rockwork and flowergarden baskets. Its gracefully procumbent growth is seen to great advantage when planted on the top of small mounds, by which its picturesque porcelain-blue blossoms are conspicuously beautiful. The plants require protection in a greenhouse or pit, and in the early spring season it should be cut back, and as its dense growth breaks at every joint, it blooms profusely from the corre sponding shoots at each axil and side branch: by thus obtaining a free and luxuriant growth, it will prove a charming plant for almost every desirable position in flower gardens and conservatories where favourably exposed to light. Its free and long-continued bloom will prove its value in adding to the desirable variety of plants for the purposes above named."