THE TWO GREAT PEAKS OF THE BUNDERPOOCH AND THE HIMALAYAS AND THEIR PRODUCTIONS. "It was, indeed, well worthy of the burst of admiration which broke from my sky could nowhere be distinctly made out. Two silver threads meandering through the maze showed the courses of the Ganges and Jumna, and small silver specks the lakes and swamps. Who could gaze on such a scene, the ideal of sublimity on one hand and of calm and repose on the other, and not exclaim, 'What a glorious creation! ""-(A Summer Ramble in the Himalayas.) Those who have visited Mont Blanc may deceive themselves into the belief that they can form a mental estimate of the Himalayas, but such a comparison is vain, that comparative pigmy reaches little higher than to the girdle of those giants of Hindostan. It rises to an elevation of 15,732 feet, whilst they exceed 28,000 feet! We are almost successfully tempted to wander far and wide, as well as high, among those glorious mountains, but those regions of the range characterised by the Conifers and the Rhododendrons are our more fitting theme. These, too, will be the most interesting to our readers, and to aid them im comprehending those regions we give the following extractt andi mapss from a communication to the late Baron Vom Humboldt from Dr. J. D. Hooker. Dr. Hooker started from Darjeeling att the foot off the ranges, and thus proceeds with his narrative: "I packed up my things and set out on my road), which ram westward, through deep, defiless (3000 feett above the sea)) and leading up a very high cross chain running out from Singalelali,, ascends to a height of 11,000 feet.. Thus I made my way to the Tambur river, in the valley of which runs the eastern highway leading from Ham (or Ilam?), to Walloong,, on the Thibetian border. Reaching this river, at an elevation of only 2500 feet above the sea, I ascended it, making my way as well ass II could through a tropical vegetation, which reaches to constantly snowcovered spurs of the Kanchain. On the 25th of November I arrived at the boundary of Rice-cultivation and Hindooism, and the commencement of a temperate zone, andi of the Bhothia people. The change from buffalo and rice,, to beef: and wheat "The village of Walloong lies about 11,000 feet above the sea. The pass, situated a day and a half's march on the further side, is about twelve miles W.N.W. from the Kanchain peaks, and twenty-five from the latter. We reached the summit in two days, with much toil, for the ground at 12,000 feet was deeply covered with October snow, which at 13,000 feet does not melt until the following March. The summit of the pass is 16,700 feet high, but still three days' march distant from the plain of Thibet, which is here cut off by two mighty chains, branches of the Kanchain, which, of: less elevation than my point of view, stretch in a northward direction toward the plain. Mountains andivalleys were now covered deeply with snow. "The limit of the eternal snow, at this point, is, as nearly as could determine, 14,500 feet above the sea; and, judging from whatt II saw afterwards, Il believe this is near the truth, although itt is impossible to speak with exactness--by the bounding of the snow which had fallen in Getubers. "Thissise nott the most eastermofthe passes leading to Thibet, and, therefore, not the nearest point to Kanchain attainable in eastern Nepal resolved to visit, on my return to Walloong, the valley lying eastward of this, where a higher but seldomerused pass led to Thibet. Descending the Tambur, I penetrated, ima north-east direction, into the Yangma valley, which expands into abroad, treelesss rarine,, wholly filled up with lake-beds. These beds are bounded by enormous rocky dams, which have been hurled across the valleyy whiemitt was all under water. To expresss it briefly,, while the Thibet Blain has accumulated its drift deposits (1000 feet thick, by actual measurement, in western Thibet) the waters, which stoodlatra height of 15,000 feet in the Yangma valley, have left parallel roads or banks, on the flanks of this valley, which are as fine as those of Glen Roy, in Scotland. Lateral ravines have washed out masses of rock into the valley, which have been piled up into mountains, and perfectly bridged it over, so that, on the subsidence of the waters, they formed dams. The terraces are perfectly parallel on the two sides of the a Darjiling. b Singalelah Range. c Nepal. d Phulull. was sudden. e Tambur. f Walloong. g Wallanchooa Pass. h Yangma. i Kanglachem. k Kanchain, Kinchin. 7 Lachen Pass. m Lachoon Pass. n Chumalari. o Turner. p Thibet. 9 Machoo. r Teesta. s Bhot-ham. t Plains of India. "Perpetual Snow. The broad black line indicates perpetual snow. valley, above the lake-beds; they ascend like steps, along the steep declivities, and are everywhere strewed with vast, blocks of rock. In the side valleys, one sees now only small patches of glacier ice, which have deposited drift and débris, just in the same manner as the vast beds twenty yards long, have been deposited by the greater ice. Ascending still higher, through stupendous mountain defiles, toward Walloong, the second transition from beef to bison (the Yak, the progenitor of which, is the undescribed wild bison of the Thibetian plains) was more gradual. "Walloong is the Cis-Himalayan commercial depôt of the Bhothias. Here I was received with mistrust, and obstacles of all kinds were opposed to my design of going towards the passes, which were the more effective that the season was far advanced, and they withheld provisions from me. Luckily, I had still a dozen Bhotan men with me, a parcel of scamps who would frighten any one, and who, by insulting, abusing the authorities, and threatening to break open the warehouses, placed me in a condition to start for the passes after a halt of two days. "I have here sketched a plan of the valley, and shown, that these bridges across the valley, a mile long, one 800 feet high, and all composed of masses of rock, heaped up too irregularly to allow of a vegetation extending to them, are a real effect of mountain ice, which has been flooded out from the side valleys "These astonishing records of the power of glacier ice admit of no other explanation; and many particulars so vividly remind me of the shores of the Antarctic Ocean, that I cannot have any doubt of the correctness of my conclusions. "The village of Yangma, at the fork of the terraced valley, lies above the limit of shrubby plants, and stands on the flanks of a level terrace of drift and rocks, rising 300 feet above the bottom of the valley, and two miles long. The village is 18,700 feet above the sea (according to the reading of two barometers, and the determination of the boiling-point) at which height Wheat, Peas, and Radishes were cultivated, the harvest falling in the month of September. "From hence I turned in the north-western direction, toward the Kanglach Pass, b snow, which leads to Thibet; but, on account of the deep had great difficulty to attain the height of 16,000 feet. Three dry lake-beds in this valley (eight in all), were of exactly the same origin as those below the village. The uppermost, at 16,000 feet was quite filled with snow, and surrounded by glacier mountains.” We must postpone our extracts relative to the plants of the Himalaya until a future Number. h a a N a Yangma River. b Boulder Deposits. e Village and Terrace. f Terraces on Flanks of Valley. g Glacier Valley. h Lake-bed. Ilex. Several of the varieties have suffered, and in some instances are losing their leaves. Laurus nobilis (Bay).-Killed down to the ground. Magnolia grandiflora.-Grown against a south wall very much cut. Phillyrea rhamnus, P. angustifolia, and P. latifolia. - Very much injured, several being quite killed. Photinia serrulata.-Killed. Quercus ilex.-Several of the varieties are slightly injured, the young twigs being killed back. Rhamnus alaternus are quite killed. Ulex europaeus flore-pleno and stricta.-Killed. Tritoma uvaria.-Quite killed. Gynerium argenteum are all killed. Jasminum Reevesii.-Killed down to the ground. Roses have suffered severely. Budded Roses, and Roses on all stocks are mostly killed. Climbers upon walls where not protected are all cut, but are springing from the root. Gloire de Dijon is the only Rose in its class that has defied the weather. I may mention that Hybrid Perpetuals upon their own roots are now springing very strongly, and I expect a good autumn bloom from them. I would suggest the advisableness of planting many more of the Roses upon their own roots than is usually done. I well recollect Mr. Beaton years ago suggesting the advantage of planting Hybrid Perpetual Roses on their own roots, and I hope he will give us his present opinion on that subject, being convinced that such will be duly appreciated.-GEORGE WESTLAND, Kingston Hall, Notts. WORK FOR THE WEEK. KITCHEN GARDEN. THIN out all advancing crops as soon as they are fit; if not attended to in good time the plants are drawn up weakly, and never produce a satisfactory crop. Broccoli, prick out the plants, as also Cabbages, as soon as they are fit to handle; to be watered after transplanting, and shaded from the mid-day sun EFFECTS OF LAST WINTER ON PLANTS IN for a time. When thus treated the plants are always better ENGLAND. (Continued from page 99.) THE following notice of the present state of the Coniferæ and shrubs here, will serve to show the devastation which has taken place. The situation of the grounds is exposed. The soil is of an adhesive, argillaceous nature. Araucaria imbricata.-Very much cut; the primary shoots are all killed back. Cedrus deodara. Very much injured; and in many instances they have lost the whole of their leaves, and the young wood of last year killed. Cupressus funebris, killed; C. Goveniana, killed; C. Knightiana, browned; C. macrocarpa, killed; C. Mc Nabiana, killed; C. sempervirens, all but; C. torulosa, killed; C. Uhdeana, killed. Fitzroya patagonica.-Killed. Pinus apulcensis, killed; P. Benthamiana, browned; P. Gerardiana, killed; P. insignis, killed; P. Llaveana, killed; P. macrocarpa, much injured; P. montezeuma, much browned; P. Sabiniana, killed. Sequoia sempervirens. Very much browned. Libocedrus chilensis.-Killed. Thuja gigantea and Wellingtonia are perfectly green. Aucuba japonica.-Much injured, but breaking back. Cerasus lauro-cerasus (Common Laurel).-All killed down to the old wood, and have lost the whole of their leaves. Cerasus lusitanica (Portugal Laurel)!-Is in some instances but slightly injured, whereas in others it has lost most of its leaves. Cistus ladaniferus.-All killed. Cotoneaster microphylla.-Killed down to the ground. than when left to grow in the seed-bed till wanted for final planting. Celery, attend to in its various stages; do not let it suffer for want of water; if the surface of the soil gets hard and caked, stir it up. Cucumbers, the ridge lately recommended will now be in a fit state to receive the plants. Plant them out without delay, and shade the hand-lights for a few days. Dwarf Kidney Beans, plant out those that were sown in pots or boxes on a warm border. Sow a succession crop, as also Scarlet Runners, and Haricot Beans where they are esteemed. Leeks, make a sowing, to plant out for winter use. Lettuce, prick out a few about once a-week. Potatoes, earth up those that have in light soil under a south wall; also Chilies, Capsicums, and just made their appearance above ground. Tomatoes, plant out Basil. Sow seeds of Vegetable Marrow, and Cucumbers for succession and for Gherkins. FLOWER GARDEN. As all apprehensions of danger from sharp frosts may now be considered over, the planting out of half-hardy plants for the summer and autumn decoration of the flower garden may now be proceeded with, and carried on as vigorously as circumstances will permit. If previous instructions have been followed the plants will now be so inured to the weather that even a few slight frosts, if they should occur, will do them no harm. When planting the beds the principal object should be to produce a striking effect by employing plants only of a decided colour, principally red, blue, and yellow, using white for separating the different divisions. The system is very effective where the colours are well contrasted, particularly when viewed from a distance, and where the beds are not numerous, and where there is some breadth of grass or gravel to neutralise. Where more variety is considered pleasing, there is no want of colour to effect any desired object. This is accomplished by using a decided colour in the centre of the bed, and surrounding it with an edging of a contrast colour. See that all edgings hitherto neglected are put in order for the summer; do not edge beyond the original boundary, and keep the walks filled with gravel. Let the roller be passed frequently along the edges in order to level them to the walk; this takes away the harshness of the outline. Auriculas should now be placed on a north border, the seed will ripen very well there if the pots are well drained and placed on a layer of ashes to prevent the ingress of worms, they will take no harm from exposure. Polyanthuses require more shading than the Auricula, else they are very liable to the attacks of red spider. Do not delay putting down the sticks to the Carnations and Picotees, tie up Pinks, and plant out Dahlias that have been properly hardened off. As the plants increase in size allow them plenty of room, especially plants with large foliage. It will be necessary to use the syringe frequently to keep down insects, assisted by fumigation where thrips are likely to get established. The white and brown scale can be kept under by carefully hand-washing the infested plants with a strong lather of brown soap and water, soft brushes, or pieces of sponge, are the best instruments to be used for the purpose that no injury may be done to the leaves. Achimenes to be placed where more air can be given, to be staked out neatly as the shoots advance. Gloxinias require a partially shaded situation and moist heat; and Gesneras similar treatment with the addition of more light. GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. A good number of plants-such as Epacrises, Diosmas, and many other New Holland plants, Myrtles and other things' that have done flowering may be removed to any other convenient place, and being cut back and repotted, will, if properly attended to, make fine plants by the autumn. Make a sowing of Chinese Primrose and Cinerarias for spring decoration. W. KEANE. DOINGS OF THE LAST WEEK. CONTINUED turning all available ground in the kitchen and flower garden. We are still keeping the latter as much as possible rough and in ridges, to expose a greater surface to the atmosphere. Independently of these turnings the ground is yet very cold, and offers no hope of us being able to turn out bedding plants for a fortnight or three weeks to come. Watered early Peas with heated weak soot water with a little lime in it, alike to supply moisture and heat, and keep the grubs at a distance. Never saw so many as this season; but thanks to liming, catching and trapping, they are now comparatively harmless. A few brewer's grains laid in little heaps, or a broccoli leaf rubbed with fat on the lower side, are rare things for attracting the slimy fraternity, and once luxuriating in fat, or getting drunk on the grains, they may be quickly picked up with the help of a lanthorn the last thing at night. Watered the Cabbage and Cauliflower plants a second time with warmed manure water, as the first had given them such a start as fairly to dispose of more bolting for the season; pulled the earth with a hoe to the stems, alike to keep moisture and the heat from the water in, technically earthed them up, but left a hollow along the row to hold more water if necessary, instead of drawing up the ridge to a point to throw off water as nicely as a span-roofed house, or a well-feathered duck's wing. Sowed more Peas in succession. Spawned the Mushroom-bed when surface about 80°-the bed mentioned the other week as consisting chiefly of stubble and tree leaves. Put 2 inches of droppings all over, and a thin layer of sheep droppings picked off the feeding-ground; and as the heat is mild, will carth up to-morrow. Of course, I should have preferred nice droppings from a stable filled with horses fed for riding and hunting; but if a man now-a-days cannot get what he wishes, he must learn to be content with getting what he can. Fine Mushroom-beds are made from well-fermented dung, sweet as for a hotbed; but that, too, just now, is out of my reach, with the dung of four horses to supply all my multitudinous wants. Kept thinning Grapes at all convenient opportunities, night and morning and dull days, it being next to manslaughter to keep a poor hard-working fellow at such work with the sun beating upon him and almost making his brains to melt. The people who insist on such work being done at such times are vourite dictum of one of our old masters. We never pass a season I said so much last week on the training of the Melon to prevent much pruning, that I said little or nothing about the setting and perfecting of the fruit. I am not sure now what I exactly did say, and, therefore, if there is a line of repetition I hope to be forgiven. As soon as the tertiary shoots push from the axils of the leaves at the ends of the secondary shoots from which the buds have not been removed, and show fruit at its first or second joint, they must be stopped either at the fruit or the joint above it. I prefer the latter. If they do not show fruit at the first or second joint, stop, that they may throw out fresh shoots. If, however, there are six or seven of these side or tertiary shoots at the point of each of these main secondary shoots or bines, they will generally show enough of fruit without this stopping again. The great thing is to get the right number on each shoot or plant to show and set at once. This when we desired to have four fruit on each plant, and found we were likely to have only one, if that was a large-fruited kind, whenever that one began to swell it would so take all the running that others would have no chance. It is best, therefore, to pull or cut off that one, so that a fresh start may be made by getting all the requisite number of flowers in bloom at a time. This secured, the setting is almost a matter of certainty, owing to the strength in the plant before the blooms are allowed to show at all. Two things more, however, are essential. First, there must be enough moisture at the roots to secure a healthy vegetation, and yet the surface of the bed must be dry to secure a dry atmosphere, to secure a free setting. Experienced hands, therefore, try to give as much water before the blossom opens as will keep the plants healthy until the young fruit are swelling, giving no water whilst the plants are in bloom. If there is any difficulty in this, it is a good plan to have two small drain-tiles— say 3 inches or 4 inches in diameter, and 1 foot long, set up in the soil of each light, the top end covered with a lid. Through these water may be poured to keep up moisture below, even when the surface of the bed is dry. If the surface of the bed is thus dry, the blossoms may be fertilised in the usual manner, and they will generally soon begin to swell. It requires a good portion of water to swell a Melon nicely; but care should be taken not to give much in dull weather, and none at all as the fruit approaches perfection, or it is likely to be deficient in flavour, and also liable to crack and rot. If the soil should be too dry to meet the demands of the plant and fruit, it should be watered below by such means as the above, whilst the surface soil is comparatively dry. FLOWER-GARDEN PLAN (A New Reader).-Your plan and the planting do you much credit. But there is one mistake in the midst of it. The large mixed circle complete'y spoils the effect of one of the best plans we have say nothing about it. seen this season. Get up some moonlight night, turf that entirely over, and WALTONIAN CAE (An Old Subscriber).—We are not sure how much water is needed for the circulation in the Waltonian Case, and Mr. West is now out of our rounds to see him. But we recollect the quantity is very success of the contrivance. Three pints and a half is one-half more water small indeed in proportion to the size, and that is the whole secret of the than we should think nec sarv with a lamp burning and keeping the water constantly up to near the biling-point. If both ends of your Case are not heated there must be something wrong inside the Case-perhaps a bit of rag or cork has got into some of the channels. The inside of a Waltonian Case is nearly as intricate as the inside of a Geneva watch, and no one could make Moved out Strawberries when gathered from; and some hardly worth house room from what remained on them, were placed in a warm place to afford some pickings of small ones. Placed in a number of those potted the other week. Prince of Wales and others swelling nicely, and Queens setting freely in the sunny weather. Never had the plants so small in autumn, and yet there has been nothing to complain about as to the crops. Like ■ correspondent's case the other week, I begin to believe it is possible to have these in pots too strong. I can well believe his case, as an amateur invited me to look at his garden, and chiefly his large Strawberry-bed the other day, which he said looked so green and nice-and so it was if the leaves were the useful part, like the Cabbages, for there was scarcely a single truss of bloom. I would not have risked a threepenny-piece on all the Strawberries, though there ought to have been some bushels. From what I learned, I believe high feeding and the severe frost combined did the mischief. Greenhouse and bedding plants much the same as the last there are no fertilisers better than guano and superphosphate of lime, which week or two.-R. F. TO CORRESPONDENTS. We request that no one will write privately to the departmental writers of the "Journal of Horticulture, Cottage Gardener, and Country Gentleman." By so doing they are subjected to unjustifiable trouble and expense. All communications should therefore be addressed solely to The Editors of the "Journal of Horticulture, &c.,” 162, Fleet Street, London, E.C. MENDING INDIANRUBBER HOSE (Kate).-To stop the holes in the hose, dissolve Indianrubber in naphtha until this becomes as thick as cream, and then, when the hose is quite dry, insert the cement between the lips of the wounds and press them together. Do not use the hose until the cement has dried. The buds between the sashes ought not to be rubbed off, nor do we see any impossibility in the way of moving the Vine stems a few inches inwards from the front of the orchard-house, so as to allow the windows to be opened quite enough for ventilation, although they do turn on pivots. However, on such difficulties, they are the best judges who can see them with their own eyes. APPRENTICESHIP TO NURSERYMEN (H. G. S.). The premiums required vary so much that we should mislead yon by quoting any. Advertise, stating what you require for your son, and judge for yourself from the answers you receive. The cheapest are not always the most preferable. There is no work published exclusively on hybridising. DRAINING-TOOLS (A Subscriber).-Write to two or three of the implement makers who advertise in our columns. Tell them what you require, and ask them to send you prices. BELT BEFORE A HOUSE (Franciscea).-Your bill has been read three times after being carefully considered upstairs by a select committee, who altered that clause only which defines the belt of trees as "a monument of your own and your husband's love of horticulture," to that of your love for one another. The old Yew-hedge 15 feet high, bare at bottom and flourishing above, is not to be removed till the second week in September. Meantime, however, a trench 2 feet wide and as deep as the roots, is to be cut on each side of the hedge, and at 3 feet from the stems, and all the roots are to be cut to within that distance. The best of the soil, and some fresh soil or road drift to be added, is to be returned into the trenches for young roots to form there; and all the old boughs of the Yews, and the young ones that are longer than 2 feet from the stems, are to be cut to that distance along the bottom of the hedge, and those at the top to 18 inches, regulating the cuts so as to make a regular slope all the way to the top. Roots, tops, cuts, and digging out and filling in to be done and finished in proper garden-like style as soon as hands can do them this present May. After that the whole space for the belt is to be trenched 2 feet deep, mixing the top and bottom soil as much as possible, and carting some fresh soil from somewhere- no matter how heavy or how light it happens to be, so there be a dozen loads of it to spread over the trenched surface, and to have the sun and rains of summer to mellow it, and render the top part the best for planting with in September. In that month the hedge is to be transplanted, and set at 3 feet from the boundary wall, and nearly as close together as the plants stand now, or as near to that as the roots will allow of in planting. Each tree is to be watered most abundantly as it is being filed in, in order to wash the soil into every opening between the roots, and between the bottom of the balls and the subsoil. The reason why Scotch Firs do not look well in your neighbourhood is the bad way they have thereabouts of not sufficiently preparing the sofl for them. But under the treatment we have directed for the Yews they will be as sure as Scotch all over the borders; and more sure if you choose the trees now, and see they are not much higher than the boundary wall, or 6 feet. A row of them, or they one-half and Pinus maritima the other half, alternately, must come in front of the Yew-hedge; and 6 feet from it, and in front of them, variegated Hollies, Portugal Laurels, and some flowering shrubs-as Lilac, Guelder Rose, two or three Honeysuckles tied to stakes, Ribes sanguineum, with what you please in smaller things in front, only have plenty of evergreen Berberis aquifolium. We will send the Index when you favour us with your direction. the least approach to making one from all the drawings which have been made of it. No one but the maker can put to rights any derangement in the working part of the Waltonian Case. All that we know is that Mr. West made every one of the tin cases in which the heating circulation is made from the first, and that the stock in hand has not yet been equal to the demand for it. In the winter of 1859 and 1860 some of the men were up most nights, and yet in February and March every post brought complaints of delays in supplying the article-that is a fact that is known to a score of the people of Surbiton. All last May and June they were incessant in their endeavours to prepare a full stock for this spring's propaga ion, and your Case could not only not belong to the first edition as you surmise, but it could not even be of the sixth edition.-D. BEATON. MANURE FOR A FLOWER GARDEN (A Subscriber).- For use by "a lady," where no labour can be had for using stable manure, and where there is no tank for liquid manure by which we presume you mean house sewagecan be had at our office in tin canisters, with directions how to employ them. FLOWER-BDS (A Cheshire Subscriber).—If the windows or front view o this garden is opposite 4 or 3 the planting is very good, but if the front view is opposite 2 or 5 there is the objection of the cold colours being in front instead of being the farthest from the eye. Some indication of the house or of the front view should accompany every garden plan. FLOWER-GARDEN PLANS (R. F. S.).-You have done this very difficult garden remarkably well this season. The Humeas will give it an air of graceful elegance planted in that style, and we should think any one looking over it from beyond the moat must be struck with the whole arrangement. (A. M. T.). The planting is good, but the principle of composition planting is destroyed in the centre bed. The plants in that centre bed ought to be in the end Verbena-beds, and the white Verbenas in the centre, with Purple King Verbena round them. which would give a better contrast than the crimson, but the crimson will do. PEAR TREE UNFRUIT UL-EVERGREEN HEDGE FOR TERRACE (H.).—The bloom and spray which you have sent tell why your Pear-tree blossoms never set, though they appear in profusion. The blossom only partially developed, and the spray covered with lichen, proclaim weakness in the tree, arising from poverty in the soil. Remove at once carefully all the top soil down to the first roots from within a circle of six-feet radius from the tree's stem. Replace that soil with some fresh rich loam, and during the drought of summer mulch over the roots and water abundantly. Brush over the stem and main branches with a creamy liquid made of fresh-slaked lime, soot, and water. We would never plant a Holly-hedge as an accompaniment to a terrace of any pretensions, but we should employ Yew or Box-and whichever we used, to be kept as close as the best Brussels carpet in-doors. If there is much light stonework about the terrace, Yew is the best to go with it; if not, Box is as cheap and as good as Yew, and you can plant either with four-feet-high plants and any other height up to 10 feet or 12 feet, according to the price you will incur. The distance between the plants-be they Holly, Yew, Box, or Privet-will be according to the sizes of the plants entirely, from 9 inches to 4 feet apart. All hedges ought to consist of only one row, and that row in the middle of the bed prepared for the plants. That bed is the grand secret of all good hedges. Any one can plant, and a child can water, but without a thorough good bed of deeply stirred or trenched soil, no hedge worth a place on a terrace can be raised. The time to plant a Yewhedge of large plants is early in September; If the plants are under 5 feet, the last of August and the first day of September are equally good, and the twentieth to the twenty-fifth day the best to plant good-sized Holly. But if the ground was quite ready, and the plants near, the first week in June is about as good a season to plant well-rooted Hollies under 6 feet as any in the whole year. The plan's should have 3 feet clear from the turf. Hollies look best if they are carefully cut with a knife instead of shearing them. From your inquiries we would strongly advise you to give up all ideas of a Hollyhedge and take Yew instead. LEAVES OF SCARLET GERANIUMS SPOTTED (Salopia).-We have never before seen this disease of yellow minute spots in Scarlet Geraniums. It looks as if from the attacks of some scaly insect. But after planting out the lants will grow out of it; then by taking healthy cuttings and letting the old plants die out, the disease will be easily got rid of. VERBENAS FOR BEDDING-CINERARIA SOWING (Inquirer).—The "best" Verbena of any colour depends entirely on the way it is to be used, The best white for you is Mrs. Holford, the best scarlet for your purpose is Robinson's Defiance, and the best purple Verbena for every one is Purple King Cinerarias tor early spring flowering should be sown this week, again in June, and towards the end of July. STOPPING DIELYTRAS (Idem).-These must not be stopped to make the plants dwarf and bushy. What could be the use of having such a common border plant otherwise than as it is? Most people cannot get it strong enough for the only purpose it is intended for-for fine blooming. Cramping it, or keeping it down by any means, makes it only less graceful, less flowering. But if you like to dwarf it, stop it by all means, and at every other joint all through the season. You can even disbud it and make it more compact that way: but we warn every one not to do so who prefers the graceful to the dumpty. CONCRETE WALKS (A. P. S.).-First foundation of stones and brickbats 6 inches deep; then a layer of chalk or lime mixed with stones (one chalk to ten of stones) 3 inches deep, with a rise of 2 inches in the centre: therefore in the centre the layer will be 5 inches deep. |