find one? Perhaps there may be a walk and seats beneath the shade of the Elms and Limes; or, perhaps, there is a summerhouse and grotto on the margin of some artificial or natural lake, with the Water Lily and the swan upon its surface; then may be felt the secret conviction, "This is the place for me." Having taken this retrospect of that which has been or is, let us take a prospective view of that which might be (in fact is already in a few places), of a house where those who delight to see the graceful, the verdant, and the varied forms of Nature.

The house that we intend to describe affording this gratification is of the following dimensions:-Length, 100 feet; breadth, 25 feet; and estimated cost, £250. It may be constructed as follows:-First dig out for footings of walls until a solid foundation is reached; and should any difficulty be found in obtaining a solid bottom, throw in concrete composed of oneeighth slaked limed, three-eighths good sharp sand, and onehalf coarse gravel or broken stone rubbish.

Build the walls of good-faced bricks, a brick and a half thick,

or of stone, whichever can be obtained the cheapest. Six feet above the ground level lay a layer of flagstones 8 inches wider than the thickness of the walls. The above said flagstones to be 3 inches thick, to face even with the exterior, but to project 8 inches into the interior of the house at both ends and both sides (the door excepted), on which two hot-water pipes-i.e., a flow and return, are to be fixed hereafter. Build another foot more wall upon the flagstones, which raises the walls to rather more than 7 feet, the height desired.

The ground plan given is merely to point out to those who have not seen anything of the kind, or have not the eye to draw from certain given details any correct idea of the effect intended to be produced by the carrying out of the description.

It is presumed that the site for the house is situated so as to be low enough for the water that supplies the fountain, &c., to be conveyed in iron pipes without having to make a reservoir especially for the purpose. The reservoir should not be less than 10 feet above the ground-level of the house. The details of the plan are as follows:

a Fountain (i.e. jet quarter inch diameter, or less, according to the supply of water).

b Well of water-that is, fed by filtration from the top of same.

e Waterfall, height of the same about 6 feet, one-inch-bore supply-pipe, or less.

d Cistern that receives the water from the waterfall c.

e Open drain formed of stones, with the joints cemented 1 foot wide (stone ridge coping stones are, with the joints cemented, capital materials for the purpose).

f Cave, with stone seat.

gg Subterraneous passage. h Dropping well.

i Walk, sunk here about 2 feet below its ordinary level, not making any steps, but allowing the flagstones to slope irregularly.

We will now proceed with the construction of the rockwork. The material throughout should consist of massive fragments of freestone rock that have been exposed to the weather for a considerable length of time, and, if possible, out of a wood, or where the sun's rays have been but faint. We prefer such from experience, of which we have had a little. Old, shaded stones are frequently covered with mosses when they are brought from the woods, &c., and on some that we got about a year ago out of the woods in this locality, are thousands of seedling Ferns, of no less than eight species, besides thirty species of Moss and Lichens galore, that impart an appearance of age to some rockwork here, which stones from the rock could not have had for some years.

We deprecate wood (tree stumps, &c.), for rockwork under glass, although some people say they are first-rate materials for the purpose, but we have not found them to be such. They may be very well where a collection of fungi is desired, or to suit the fancy of those who like to do a thing one day and to alter it the next. Wood rots, and the stones that are above or on it fall, and the work has to be done over again at a time when the plants are about their best. Moreover, the plants do not thrive on them as they will do without them, which no doubt is owing to the venomous threads of the various fungi that harbour there, destroying their roots-the very mouth and existence of all plants, terrestrial or epiphytes.

Commence the formation of the rock at the ends, so that it will be completed at the door. About two hundred tons of rock will be required. They can be brought on carts or waggons o the door, thence on a small truck to the place required, and ally placed in postion by the aid of a three-legs and blocks.

The stones should be laid firm, by no means otherwise. Back stones are a good material for that purpose; soil lowers too much unless rammed down, which it should not. The soil used under the stones should be of a porous nature. Fix every stone firm, and lay them so as to leave some good-sized openings for soil (some large and some small), and fix the water-pipes as the work proceeds, laying them in such a position as to be examined in case of an accident, and so go on until the whole of the rockwork is completed.

The flagstones should be laid so soon as the rock is completed, and the waterworks should be tried to see that they work satisfactorily. The flagstones should be undressed, and if one side be rougher and uglier than the other we would lay that side uppermost. We would fix the heating apparatus next. A boiler would be wanted, a twenty-four-inch wrought iron Monro's cannon boiler will shoot out ample boiling water into the 500 feet of four-inch pipe we would attach to it. This done, we certainly would try it to see that it worked well, of which we have no doubt. The roof should now be put on. The rafters should be 15 feet long, 7 inches by 3 inches in thickness (that is one sort), but we would have another 15 feet long, 4 inches by 2 inches. Both these should be ploughed three quarters of an inch deep by half an inch wide for the glass to rest on, on one of the narrow surfaces, which side, of course, would be placed upwards. The ridge-tree should be 8 inches by 24 inches, and should be grooved its entire length for the glass to fit into, for we would use no cappings. The wall-plates 12 inches by 2 inches in thickness; and we would have a groove in these on the under side, half an inch from the outside edge, to prevent from following the wood the water from the roof that should

fall into the spouts; if not grooved, the water follows the wallplates and runs down the walls. The wall-plates should project exteriorly 1 inch. The south end should be sashed for glass, the other end should be walled up of brick or stone. At both ends let there be a ventilator 4 feet by 3 feet fixed as near the top as possible, one of glass, the other of wood, and have them to work on a swivel. There should be double the quantity of rafters of the smaller size to what there is of the other or larger kind. All the wood to be sound, well-seasoned red deal, dressed, and have a neat moulding on the under side of the rafters and ridge-tree, All the timber employed should have two good coats of lead paint before fixing. This done, commence fixing the roof. Fix a seven-inch rafter first, then two four-inch rafters, then a seven, and so on to the other end, placing them 18 inches asunder, jointing them at top, and letting them into the wall-plates at bottom to the depth of half an inch, At top they should enter the ridgetree not less than three quarters of an inch. Lay all the joints in white lead paint and fasten them well, using screws for that purpose. Four cross-tie beams of inch-wrought iron will be required to prevent the roof (wall plates) from jutting out at the foot, each 25 feet long, four screw holes at each end, let them into the wall plates and screw them fast, one at each end, the other about 33 feet apart. The rafters should also have halfinch iron rods from large rafter to ditto, with a screw-hole opposite the centre of each small rafter. Fix these half way up the rafters and screw them fast, that will keep the several rafters in their proper line, a point of some consequence to the glazier, Glaze throughout with Hartley's one-eighth-of-an-inch rough plate glass, the squares 1 foot 6 inches wide by 2 feet long, nailing them in with inch copper nails, and puttying the laps, which need not be more than a quarter of an inch. Give two coats of white lead paint inside and outside, and then a coat of varnish. Our architect work is now at an end, and we are right glad, for we do not feel altogether at home. Perhaps we shall be there presently. SOIL wherein Ferns are to be grown should be of a porous nature, and that is not liable to become adhesive by frequent and copious supplies of water. One-half turfy peat such as Orchid growers use, and that which is a light colour, with pieces of decayed moss, and rather sandy, is the best; one-fourth turfy loam, and that which is called yellow or hazel loam is to be preferred; one-eighth pieces of greetstone broken to about the size of a Walnut; one-eighth silver sand; incorporate the above well together, chopping the peat with the spade, but do not pass any of the compost through a riddle. În the above compost they thrive amazingly. They are not benefited by the application of manure, or manure water of any description; and to some species it is so detrimental as to cause death. This applies chiefly to the lesser and fine-rooted kinds. The compost should be worked into the hollows and crevices of the rockwork with a pointed piece of wood or some such like implement. Plants of the small-growing sorts should be planted where the soil is shallow, and the openings between the stones the least, Those that have creeping stems, such as Davallias, &c., may be planted where their roots will have the chance of creeping on an overhanging rock in such a position they are beautiful in the extreme. But as we shall give a list of such kinds as are suited for a greenhouse temperature hereafter, in order to save space we will not deal with that subject at present, except that some Ferns look considerably more to advantage when viewed in certain positions than when they are planted indiscriminately. If the plants have been grown in pots, which they generally are, they may be planted at any season of the year; if not, they should not be disturbed when growing, but rather wait until they are at rest (not growing). March and April are the best months, but we have planted them at all times of the year without any failures of any consequence. The roof must be shaded, Tiffany (Shaw's) No. 3 is what most people use, and it answers the purpose admirably. It should be sewed together and nailed on with small tacks (nails) driven through a piece of leather or list about the size of a shilling. It should remain on permanently, and will last three years.

WATERING. Some people imagine that Ferns are aquatics; at all events, they get generally too much of that they are fond of viz., a moist atmosphere, sufficient water at the root as to prevent the fronds from flagging, and, when growing, an abundance of it

that is, when they are in want of water, give them a good drink, and not deal out to them half-allowances. Cold, dry currents of air are to be avoided, for it dries them up like cut grass under a July's sun. At all times the stones (rock) should be kept moist;

and during the hotter summer months a light sprinkling overhead from the syringe every day at even is very beneficial. TEMPERATURE, &c.-Although we have a heating apparatus it should not be used for any other purpose than that of keeping the temperature from falling below 35°, and to expel damp during the dark, foggy days of November, December, &c. In such weather both ventilators should be opened (unless the fog be intense they must then be closed), and a gentle circulation of air caused by the heat from hot-water pipes. A piece of woollen netting fastened over the opening of each ventilator, so fine as to prevent any great movement of the fronds by the ingress of cold or dry air, and yet wide enough (meshes), to admit air to pass freely is essential if not indispensable. The ventilators can be taken out and replaced only during dense fogs, or when the temperature exteriorly is 32°. In summer one might imagine ourselves in a fair way of being roasted, in a large house having only two openings to let out heat, and these not large in proportion—it is a dream only. We have a shaded roof and a moist atmosphere, two admirable cooling agencies; with them the interior will never be more than 5° above the external air, and on very hot days when the temperature outside ranges from 80° to 90°, inside it will rarely attain 75°, and rare intend 80°; nevertheless, the plants thrive so well as to astonish their brethren that man pampers in a pot or pots, and makes them compass two or three years' growth in a single season by the application of heat at a very, very wrong time, and at too high a point on the scale of degrees.

INSECTS.-The green fly (aphis), is easily killed by tobacco smoke, but care should be taken not to use very strong tobacco paper, or it may injure the young growths; rather smoke on two successive evenings slightly than risk the plants by an over dose. Thrips, to destroy it, well sponge the infested fronds, and if very much infested entirely remove the fronds and fumigate frequently but cautiously with tobacco until one insect cannot be found. Brown scale is, perhaps, the most troublesome of all insects in a collection of Ferns; remove it by hand while it is young and light coloured. It should not be permitted to become brown and hard, for it is then only a cover for thousands of microscopic young ones. If burst in that state they fall on plants near them, and the would-be-destruction is a direct augmentation. Should any plant be hopelessly infested with it, remove all the worst parts, and if the case be desperate remove them all, examining the crown or crowns where they have an abundance of harbour among the scales, remove them by hand, and always have an eye to them. Mealy bug is occasionally found, remove them in a similar way. Woodlice, a few toads kept in the house will soon set them to rest. Snails and sluge, catch them at night by the aid of a lantern. The plants should be clean when planted. If, however, we found any insects of any kind, we would not admit them into a collection of clean plants until they were thoroughly cleaned and perfectly free of all disease. We know a fernery that was formerly kept at stove temperature, but there were only six stove Ferns in the lot of 600 plants; at that time were thrips, mealy bug, aphis, and red spider by the ten thousand. Gishurst compound was used (rather tried), on six plants, the plants were dipped in a solution 8 ozs. to the gallon, overhead for three minutes, in six hours the fronds were black, and, but to cut the thing short, they were killed. The temperature was lowered from 85° by day to 45° in the course of a fortnight--not all at once, but by a few degrees each day; the house was kept moist (almost to saturation), smoked with tobacco paper every other night for three weeks, and the hand was used to the scale and bug. At the end of a month the plants were clean: they, however, were carefully watched for the reappearance of the scale and bug, and were found destroyed, There has not been any of these insects in the house since, two years ago, except the green fly, and that has required a dose of tobacco only twice. Soft soap should be used but little and with caution, and we have not found any composition that does not injure the fronds, no matter how weak the solution.-GEORGE ABBEY, Gardener to E. Hailstone, Esq., Horton Hall, Bradford. (To be continued.)

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

THE frequent showers that we have had of late have been very favourable for garden operations, Every yard of ground that can be spared to be prepared and planted with winter vegetables.

Immediately a crop is done with either remove it or dig it in. Sprinkle the ground with quicklime to destroy slugs, but more abundantly when the refuse of the crop is dug in. Before earthing up crops in dry weather give them a good soaking with water. Beans, a few Mazagans may yet be put in, which will produce late in the season if the weather prove favourable. Broccoli, Cape and Grange's Cauliflower may now be planted where the early Peas were growing and have been removed. The main crops of the other sorts to be planted out as early as possible. If the weather is dry they will require an abundant supply of water. Cabbage, sow a little more seed immediately, if the sowing recommended last month has failed. Chertil, make another sowing for a succession. Cucumbers, put in a few cuttings or sow a little seed to have a few plants to plant out for a succession till Christmas. Pay every attention to those in frames, they require a liberal supply of water twice a-week, and to be sprinkled overhead every afternoon. Endive, continue to plant out a few at a time to keep up a succession. Another sowing to be made. Dwarf Kidney Beans, the last principal sowing to be made; earth up the advancing crops; those swelling their pods will be greatly benefited by a good watering. Parsley, make a sowing to get strong plants before winter. Peas, a few more may be sown which will come into bearing if the autumn is favourable; earth up and stick the advancing crops, and water those that are in bearing if the weather is very dry. Vegetable Marrows, these will require a very liberal supply of water during the continuance of dry weather; stop the main shoots to produce laterals.

FLOWER GARDEN.

Plants growing in baskets and vases to have a stirring on the surface before it is entirely covered with foliage, likewise a layer of moss to be put on to save watering, by checking excessive evaporation. Flower-beds to be carefully looked over, the ground loosened, weeds removed, and the various plants carefully pegged down or tied up. Bulbs to be taken up and stored away until the autumn, and their places to be occupied with plants from the reserve stock. Russian Violets may be separated and fresh plantations made. Attend to the Dahlias, watering them with weak liquid manure, and insert stakes to which the laterals can be tied when sufficiently long. When the grass of the Ranunculuses turns yellow take up the roots, do not wait till the whole collection is ready or else those which have arrived at maturity will again have begun to grow, which will most likely cause their destruction. Portugal Laurels, Cypresses, Arbor Vites, Bays, Yews, and tree Box, are in some places used to embellish Italic and geometric flower gardens, and terraces, and when cut into architectural figures are fine accompaniments of the above style of gardening. To cut them into the figures they are to assume, in many cases wires will be necessary to keep the branches in their proper place at first, when afterwards the knife and shears will suffice to keep them in proper forms. They should, however, be clipped-in two or three times during the season to attain correctly the required outline. Very interesting examples are to be seen under the manipulation of Mr. Tombs, gardener to Major-General Fox, Kensington. Give plants infested with the green fly a liberal washing with the engine or syringe them with tobacco water. Mildew sometimes becomes troublesome after this season. It may, however, be kept in check by applying sulphur to the parts affected the moment it makes its appearance, first watering them that the sulphur should stick. Continue to propagate Pinks, Picotees, and Pansies. Clip Box edging in cloudy weather. Roll and mow lawns, and follow up assiduously the extirpation of weeds.

the perfect safety of the foliage. If previous directions have been attended to there will be but little to do to the Orchids here besides attending to the ordinary routine of affording them a thoroughly moist atmosphere, repotting any specimen that may require it, and sponging the foliage, as may be necessary, to keep it perfectly clean.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

The border in the conservatory to be examined, and if necesGive a sary give it a thorough soaking of weak liquid manure. keep the house as neat and clean as possible. Chrysanthemums liberal supply of air at this season, both night and day, and to be duly potted and attended to, to be supplied liberally with See that Azaleas are clear of thrips. Forward Chinese Primroses manure water, and to be sprinkled overhead every evening. for winter blooming. See that the Lilacs, Deutzias, and Roses forced the preceding season are plunged and top dressed. A few pots of Mignonette sown now and kept under a north wall will be found useful in the autumn. W. KEANE.

DOINGS OF THE LAST WEEK.

THE fine genial rains have come at last, worth more than a hundred artificial waterings, and oh! everything has grown as a consequence of the rains falling so gently, and yet somewhat heavily, on ground previously so well heated. Were we sure of such warm weather as we lately had returning, and continuing, we might try many tropical plants out of doors, both fruit and flowers, with good hopes of success, though, in such a season as the last, they would but pine and die.

Turned out as many succession Cauliflowers, Colewort Cabbages, Brussels Sprouts, Scotch Cabbaging-kale, Asparagus-kale, for the first time, and, as yet, see no difference between it and Variegated-kale, Cottager's-kale, and Melville's Garnishing-kale, it far behind the Scotch Dwarf Cabbaging-kale for general Cottager's-kale, and, much as the latter is praised, consider and remaining close and compact in its heads or sprouts after purposes; the latter permitting of as early and regular cutting, the others were a mass of flower. Have frequently had this Scotch-kale good up to the end of June; no small matter if Cabbages happen to be late. Some of these we planted between and most of the Broccoli, have been planted out some 4 inches apart the rows of Potatoes after earthing the Potatoes up; but others, in a bed which we use for bedding flower plants, there to stand until early Potatoes and early Peas are removed. Early Cauliflowers in beds under hand-glasses were earthed-up by digging a trench between the beds 15 inches wide, and 18 inches deep, Strong plants of Celery were put there a foot apart, and what is and rotten dung being placed in the bottom and forked over. still left of the Cauliflower leaves just throws a flickering shade These few rows between the Cauliflower are generally all we over the Celery, which it is very partial to until growing freely. The bulk of the plants are put into beds 4 feet grow in rows. wide, and 4 feet between, dug out about 9 inches, and Peas, &c., sown on the top of the ridges, so that they shall be gathered and gone before the Celery needs earthing-up, about which we are never in a hurry. These beds when supplied with manure are but little beneath the general level before the ridges were thrown up. If these ridges run north and south-in fact, in any other direction but east and west, the shade will be of advantage to the Celery, and save some waterings which otherwise they would require. Of course a little care must be taken in gathering the Peas that the Celery is not injured or trampled on, but that must not be grudged where ground must be made the most of. The Peas being sown in January or February, the beds are used for early Potatoes with protection, or early Lettuce, and mostly for bedding flower plants to be hardened off under protection at night, and, as these are got rid of, three rows of Celery are transferred to each bed. If the beds were sunk deeper than stated, there would be danger of the plants rotting in the winter and spring.

Sowed a few Eclipse, Knight's Dwarf Marrow Pea, and a few Bishop's Dwarf Pea. Will sow the last of the latter in a fort night, just in chance for getting a few late ones if the end of October should be fine. Gathered Veitch's Perfection last year until the day before the severe frost in November. Thinned Turnips, Radishes, sowed more, and also succession of Lettuces, Endive, Onions, &c., for salads, and a bed of Chicory for winter and spring use. On this, the 26th, there are signs of the rain clearing off; and will run the hoe through all growing crops as soon as the ground is hard enough to prevent patching with the

feet, as it is amazing how a week of dripping weather has brought to light weeds unseen before.

Continued looking after the fruit trees much the same as last week. Nailed the points of Cherries, and netted them to keep the birds from eating the crop. Thinned out the shoots of Currant bushes, as we needed them for hair-pin-like pegs for the flower garden. Fastened those and Gooseberries that the wind was swaying, owing to the too-heavy crops. Pulled all the weeds visible in Strawberry quarters preparatory to netting them, as few things look more slovenly than seeing some big weed growing through the meshes of the net, as if you had placed the net as a training-frame for it to luxuriate on. Turned out, as time could be got and ground be at liberty, the Strawberries forced in pots, giving them 2 feet one way, and 15 inches or 18 inches the other. The first turned out are now beginning to show flower, which will come in after such late kinds as Elton and Eleanor, and be succeeded by later plantings. Inde pendently of thus gaining a second crop from the earliest planted in autumn, there is no means I have tried for getting such a heavy crop the following season. The produce is immense, but the first season after planting gives you the cream. Such plants should not stand above two years. We generally turn the plant out of the pot, and plant it crocks and all, merely running our fingers over and in the sides of the ball to give free egress to the roots, and packing the soil firmly against it and watering well. The sooner these plants are turned out the better they will yield the following year; if they stand long, kicking about either in their pots or out of them before being planted, they will not greatly exceed those young plants turned out in autumn in the usual way.

As winds have come with the rains, not only Cucumbers, as alluded to last week, but Dahlias, Sunflowers, Hollyhocks, and almost everything in exposed places wanted looking to. Early Tulips and Ranunculuses also needed raising and drying gradually in a shady place. Staking and pegging have been partly interrupted, not merely because the rains were too heavy for the men, but in all cases where the feet were required to go on the bed, the trampling would do more harm on the wet soil than the tying would do good. This did not apply in cases where the operator could reach the centre of the bed without putting a foot on it, or only one foot supported on a piece of wood 6 inches wide and 15 inches or 18 inches long: hence the importance of beds not more than feet or 5 feet wide, so far as being easily managed in all weathers, and without foot trampling. Beds that cannot be so reached, and constitute prominent features, we never allow to be trampled on, even in dry weather, but insist on the use of these little boards, so that the soil shall be uniform in porosity. In large beds where coarse things are grown a dry day is chosen, and the boards dispensed with. Besides this tying the fork and the hoe are the only implements used, with a broom to switch the sides when done. We hate the sight of a rake in all such cases, and gave sad umbrage to some of the neat-keeping, nicely-dressed-bed people who rake and rake at their beds to make them look neat, instead of using means to conceal the earth quickly with leaves and flowers. We have seen such scratched and continuously-raked beds as hard as a stone nearly, and yet people wondered the plants got less instead of larger. For the mass of flower-beds we use twigs of spruce or larch, or what we can get for support. They do not look extra beautiful at first, but the growing plant conceals them ere long, and yet the twigs prevent it being moved or broken by the winds. Our pegs for Verbenas, Petunias, &c., especially the outsides of them, are made chiefly of young shoots of currants, or any other tree that can be got; a bundle being held in the hand and the leaves stripped off-young Laurel shoots taken off in winter and laid in a heap, are capital for the purpose, as all the leaves will drop as soon as touched. Whatever the material, the man holds a small bundle of such shoots in his left hand, and with the knife in his right hand, and singling out a shoot he breaks it over the knife in lengths to suit his purpose-6 inches for small things and 8 inches or 12 inches for stronger things. Then suppose you take one of these little sticks, say 6 inches in length, bring the two ends together, so as to crack it in the middle, leaving the bark and a little of the wood on the lower side, and you have a wooden hair-pin. Place the two ends in the ground, over the shoot, and the peg is put to its use; all these operations go on at once. The lad breaks the shoot over the knife, cracks it in the middle, and gets the ends in the ground, and another and another follow, getting in his dozen almost as soon as some people could sing out Jack Robinson.-R. F.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

We request that no one will write privately to the departmental writers of the "Journal of Horticulture, Cottage Gardener, and Country Gentleman." By so doing they are subjected to unjustifiable trouble and expense. All communications should therefore be addressed solely to The Editors of the "Journal of Horticulture, &c.," 162, Fleet Street, London, E.C.

by being informed where this can be obtained, and what would be the

LAWSON'S METEOROLOGICAL THERMOMETER STAND.-We shall be obliged

expense, including thermometers and rain-guage. This information is required by several correspondents in consequence of our notice and drawing of it at p. 220.

VARIEGATED PANSY (F. M. E.).-Received with many thanks.

ALTERING A GREENHOUSE FURNACE TO THE KIDDEAN SYSTEM (B. W.).— There is no objection to the proposal of a chamber except the additional expense. With a quick, good drawing-flue, however, you will be disappointed if you expect great heat in your chamber. It is quite possible to ride any idea until it expires, and those who have already flues or hot water doing well, but must try every new or merely old but resuscitated idea, will often find that they spend their morey for less than an idea. However, your chamber will at least be a harmless affair, but the heat obtained from it, in extent, will be in proportion to the bed draught of the flue, or the care taken to prevent the combustion by a general use of the damper. Where economy of fuel is the first consideration, we would have a flue, long or short, from the furnace, to absorb much of the heat that now goes up the chimney. This is one reason why when there is no such flue, heating various houses from one because the heat escaping from one chimney is less than that escaping from boiler, is cheaper than heating each house with a separate boiler, just half a dozen. We have, however, several times followed your proposed plan with boilers, by placing a chamber over and round them, especially over them. Before we did so, we often found that the shed in which the fireplace and boiler were placed, were much warmer than the house heated by the pipes from the boiler. The chamber intercepted this heat, and with two openings in it, the one near the bottom for cold air, and the other near the top for hot air, we obtained a stream of hot air pouring into the house in proportion to the strength of the fire used, and the care with which the damper was applied. If 20 feet or 30 feet of a flue had run from the furnace before getting to the chimney, we would not have expected so much from heat size heated with a small flue below the ground. To a ve all the heat, as I from the chamber. I once outwitted myself with a small house about your supposed, in making the stokehole outside the wall, I so contrived to have the furnace door considerably inside the wall-say a foot; the bars, &c., therefore, were inside, below the floor of the house, but for 3 feet or so above the furnace the floor never gets warm, so that what I expeeted would be the hottest is in reality the coldest part. This would not have signified if the flue had not been a short one, as the heat was carried along; but from that very fact I lose 3 feet or 4 feet of heat-radiating space, which I could have had by having the furnace-bars closer to the outside, instead of inside the house. This simple circumstance will show our correspondent that few

economical plans will combine every advantage. We suspect the furnace is too low, but we can hardly judge, as you do not tell us how high your flue is fue should be from 15 inches to 24 inches below the bottom of the flue, and above the floor in the greenhouse. To draw well, the furnace-bars of your if the corners of the flue are rounded instead of rectangular, the draught will be all the better. We consider the ventilation is sufficient if the door stands open in summer. If not, you should have two openings in front for air, or even three, which, if smaller, will be better than one sash in the middle.-F. CAMELLIA LEAVES DECAYED (A Subscriber).—The brown spots and edges of the leaves are caused by the defective action of the roots. Probably they

have been sometimes too wet and too cold, and at other times too dry.

STRAWBERRIES (E.).-Elton Pines averaging 1 oz. in weight are very fine; but this season of heat and showers has produced everywhere, and of every variety, a finer and more abundant crop than has occurred for some years. Seed from your Elton Pines will not, for certain, produce finer varieties than more moderately-sized berries. Would not our "Fruit Manual for the Many" suit you?

AQUILEGIA CARYOPHYLLOIDES SEED (D. Laurie).-It seems from your statement that the seed was defective. Yet the seedsmen may not have been to blame-they are dependant on the seed growers; and even these may not be in fault, for last year was one of the worst ever known for seed-ripening. Mr. Rawson is a private gentlemen, and we have no authority to give his address. Jurinea is a Composite plant, and so is that of which you enclose a leaf and immature head; but from such specimens we cannot undertake to say it is a Jurinea. "The Wild Flowers of Great Britain" will be completed in about sixty Numbers.

CUCUMBERS SHEDDING THEIR FRUIT (-).-Examine the earth; if wet, stir up and refrain watering for a time. If dry below give a good watering, and keep the Vines thin. Wash the wood of the frame with flowers of sulphur and lime. These may be effectual, but, if prudent, you will prepare another bed, and use light, fresh, well aërated soil. We have had the same evil ourselves and could not cure it, though we kept it in bounds. It is one of those diseases which, when it comes, nonplusses the best doctors, vntil soil, &c., is all fresh. Sourness in the soil we consider the predisposing cause. You might have your Heliotrope with Ageratum, but we can say little, as we know nothing of the colour of your Petunias or Verbenas. A variegated Geranium-bed might look well. Very likely Love-lies-bleeding, or Chrysanthemum tricolor, or Viscaria oculata, or Coreopsis tinctoria, or Drummondi, would do; but we cannot say what would suit you in the circumstances.

Green Gage SUCKERS (A Subscriber).- Bare the stem of the tree careand chisel, and daub over the parts cut with white lead.

fully, and cut off these suckers either with a starp knife, or a sharp mallet

CONSERVATORY ROOFED WITH HARTLEY'S PATENT GLASS (A Subscriber). -Do not put up any blinds or shades until you find that they are necessary If the light and heat require moderating at all, which depends much upon your aspect and situation, we would much prefer the painting the inside of the glass with strongly-sized water, in which a little whiting was mixed, and a little stone blue added, just to give the mixture a slight azure tone.