is to peg down a sufficient quantity of runners any time in June. When sufficiently rooted lift them and transplant them in nursery-rows on a piece of ground in good condition, having a south aspect preferred (with me), there to remain all winter and next spring, until the end of May or beginning of June. Lift them with moderate balls, and plant them in six or eight-inch pots, according to strength of plants, in good rich soil; then plunge the pots up to the rim in coal ashes or sawdust in a sheltered situation exposed to the sun, paying attention to watering the plants. They may safely remain until the approach of winter, when they should have the protection of a glass frame or other convenience, from whence they may be taken to the forcing quarters as occasion requires. The plants will be greatly benefited by giving them a surface dressing of rich loam early in November. By this treatment the plants will give satisfaction. Not having seen or heard of this method being practised, I thought it might be worth the notice of some of your numerous readers.-(X., in Scottish Gardener.) THE two engravings given at pages 4 and 5 being the English | garden and the view to the westward of the mansion, we now come to another portion of the grounds, and one, perhaps, the most lovely of any-the Waterfall Rock Garden, which comprises an extensive space; its northern side formed by an irregular face of natural rock, while masses of rock are scattered about in various directions-not little pigmy imitations of rockwork composed of small stones forming artificial-shaped mounds, but large blocks which, individually, might almost be measured by the cubic yard. Groups of these masses present themselves at various points, generally one side of them being concealed by some choice tree or shrub, but enough of the stone is seen to give it the character it is known by, and it would be difficult to conceive a more happy effect than this garden has when seen in bright sunshine. I believe the whole of the stonework is artificial, and yet it shows all the features of having been there from time immemorial. Large stones, partly jutting out of the soil in some places, in others rising to considerable heights, with Heaths, dwarf Rhododendrons, Pinus Clanbrasiliensis, and other shrubs amongst them; and a mass of Juniperus repens I noticed as being upwards of 25 feet in diameter, and might have been 50 feet, but was obliged to be cut. The beautiful carpety appearance this has, with its soft elastic shoots overlying each other, offering a good example to our manufacturers in the making of plush and similar draperies; and two Pinus Clanbrasilienses appeared to be 7 feet through and 5 feet high. Thuja Doniana promises to become a pretty and useful Conifer, and is quite hardy. Several Heaths appear to bear cutting as well as Box does in a general way. A flight of rustic stone steps ascended an eminence in this garden, and a walk of the same material perhaps showed more the assistance it had received from art than anything else, and was the only thing I could find fault with, and, perhaps, in this I might be wrong. Some noble specimens of Coniferæ skirted this garden, and linked it with the more ordinary grounds to the south. I had only an opportunity of ascer taining the dimensions of a few of these trees, but I hope Mr. Cox, the intelligent gardener there, will give us more particulars about them. Amongst other trees I noticed Abies morinda, 37 feet high; Pinus ponderosa, 50 feet, a fine tapering tree, more inclined to go upwards than it generally does; Abies Menzeisi, 32 feet, very fine; Pinus radiata, in the way of P. insignis, but of a still more deep green, 12 feet, and very promising; Pinus muricata; Libocedrus chilensis, 7 feet; both the Cephalotaxus | other trees; and what give a greater contrast to the whole than Fortunei, male and female, which in foliage and general ap- any other Pinus were two beautiful specimens of a deciduous pearance are much more distinct than many varieties to which Cypress called Clypto-strobus sinensis. Outside of all these were distinct specific names are given; some fine Irish Yews and some good Oaks on the sloping part of the bank facing the west. BRITISH FRUITS & POMOLOGICAL CLEANINGS. WE have received from Messrs. J. C. Wheeler & Son, of Gloucester, a basket of the fruit of this most excellent dessert Apple. It is a sort not generally known, as its cultivation is confined inore particularly to the west of England, where it was raised; and it is with the view of giving it the greatest publicity, that we extract from Dr. Hogg's "British Pomology" the figure and description of this truly valuable variety, which is now just coming into use, and will continue at its best up till May and June, if properly preserved. "Skin light greenish-yellow, covered with yellowish-brown russet, and a tinge of brown next the sun. "Eye small and partially open, placed in a moderately deep basin. "Stalk short, inserted in a round and deep cavity. "Flesh yellowish, firm, crisp, juicy, sugary, rich, and highly aromatic. richness of the Nonpareil, but with a more sugary juice. It "A dessert Apple of the very first quality, possessing all the comes into use in November, but is in greatest perfection from Christmas till May. "The tree is very hardy, an excellent bearer, and will succeed in situations unfavourable to the Nonpareil, to which its leaves and shoots bear such a similarity, as to justify Mr. Lindley in believing it to be a seedling variety. "This delightful Apple was raised at Gloucester, about the beginning of the last century, by Dr. Ashmead, an eminent physician of that city. The original tree existed within the last few years in what had originally been Dr. Ashmead's garden, but was destroyed in consequence of the ground being required for building. It stood on the spot now occupied by Clarence Street. It is difficult to ascertain the exact period when it was raised; but the late Mr. Hignell, an eminent orchardist at Tewkesbury, in Gloucestershire, informed me, that the first time he ever saw the fruit of Ashmead's Kernel, was from a tree in the nursery of Mr. Wheeler, of Gloucester, in the year 1796, and that the tree in question had been worked from the original, and was at that time upwards of thirty years old. From this it may be inferred that the original tree had attained some celebrity by the middle of last century. The Ashmead's Kernel has long been a favourite Apple in the gardens of West Gloucestershire, but it does not seem to have been known in other parts of the country. Like the Ribston Pippin, it seems to have remained long in obscurity, before its value was generally appreciated; it is not even enumerated in the catalogue of the extensive collection which was cultivated by Miller and Sweet, of Bristol, in 1790. I find it was cultivated in the Brompton Park Nursery in 1780, at which time it was received from Mr. Wheeler, nurseryman, of Gloucester, who was author of "The Botanist's and Gardener's Dictionary," published in 1763, and grandfather of Mr. J. Cheslin Wheeler, the present proprietor of the nursery, to whom I am indebted for specimens of the fruit, and much valuable information connected with the varieties cultivated in that district."-H. ENGLISH RAISINS.-In corroboration of what was said by "R." in last week's JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE I have read in an American gardening journal an account of a long discussion about preserving Grapes. They seem to do so largely in America, and from what they say, by gathering them late in October, I suppose they use their thick-skinned sorts, Isabella and Catawba, &c., and place the bunches in single layers in paper boxes, holding about 5 lbs. Some people keep them in a dry room, and then place them in a dry airy cellar for the winter. One person said that he kept his Grapes till April, and others said till February and March-no bran with them, as recommended by "R." In their dry climate the cellar would do, but not here, I think. A dry, warm room must be our place. At any rate, reading the above has convinced me that by the simple plan suggested by "R." any family in a Grape-season may have them on their table all winter, and those with vineries need not have the trouble and expense of keeping them on the Vines.-T. FRUIT FORCING IN THE OLDEN TIME.-Bradley says, writing in 1722, "Mr. John Millet (of North End, Fulham), whom I have so often mentioned on account of ripe Cherries in February, was the chief if not the only gardener in England for bringing his fruit out of season to good ripeness and perfection. I have eaten in February Duke Cherries so ripe that they were almost black, and, in my opinion, were as well tasted as any of the summer growth, which depended on his just management of them, in applying a due heat at proper times.' BOWOOD MUSCAT GRAPE.-This Grape was raised from seed by Mr. John Spencer, of Bowood, and is distinguished from Muscat of Alexandria, of which it is a seminal form, by the plant being very much later in starting into growth, and in setting its fruit more freely than that variety. This peculiarity in vegetating late is not, however, maintained during the whole period of growth, for the fruit is ripe equally as early as that of the Muscat of Alexandria, from which it is generally acknowledged to be distinct. All that has been said about this variety being identical with another sort called "Passe Muscat" must to some extent be imaginary, Passe Muscat being merely a synonyme of Muscat of Alexandria, and regarded as such by all pomologists both in this country and on the continent for the last hundred and fifty years. There can be no doubt but that Bowood Muscat has its own individuality, however similar it may be to any other variety. The ENTOMOLOGICAL SOCIETY'S MEETING. the presidency of J. W. Douglas, Esq., was fully attended. The THE Meeting of this Society, held on the 4th March, under display of new and interesting insects taken during the preceding year, notwithstanding its inclement nature, and the near approach of the ensuing collecting season, was remarkable, proving as it does the unabated ardour with which the science, or rather, perhaps, the collecting of specimens is pursued. Moth (to which he had applied the name of Nonagria Bondii), Dr. Knaggs stated, that having forwarded specimens of the to M. Guenee, the great authority for the nomenclature of European Moths, it had been pronounced a distinct and undescribed species. Mr. Stainton exhibited a new British Moth belonging to the which had been taken on Ivy blossoms, near Cardiff, in October same family, Noctuide-viz., the Xylina conformis, of Treitschke, last. Dr. Wallace exhibited specimens of a Moth belonging to the of Wight, which closely resembled the supposed species from genus Lasiocampa, reared from the caterpillar taken in the Isle the north of England, named L. callunæ, by Dr. Palmer; also, some fine dark varieties of Hemerophila abruptaria and its pupa case found near London. Biston pilosaria and hispidaria; also a fine variety of B. prodreMr. Mitford exhibited a curious hybrid Moth reared between maria, and a series of six species of Moths belonging to the curious genus Fumea (commonly called chimney sweepers from their small size and black colour), which he had reared from the caterpillars, which inhabit moveable cases, taken at Hampstead, one of which appeared to be undescribed. the species of minute British Coleoptera, on which he has been Mr. G. R. Waterhouse continued his critical observations on for many years engaged. He exhibited a fine specimen of Anobium denticolle, taken in the neighbourhood of London, and read descriptions of new and rare species of the genera Scymnus, Clambus, and Bryaxis. bution of the beautiful Moths forming the family Zygænidæ, A paper was read by Mr. Kirby on the geographical distriThe majority of these insects are natives of the warmer regions of the earth. of Butterflies, Hipparchiidae, by Mr. Hewitson, was read. The A monograph on the genus Pronophila, belonging to the family species are natives of equatorial America, and bear a close resemblance to our meadow-brown Butterflies. Hymenoptera, taken at Panama, by Mr. Stretch, was also read A paper containing descriptions of new species of Aculeate by Mr. F. Smith. ROSES AND THE SEVERE WINTER.-The sensible suggestion in a recent number of THE COTTAGE GARDENER that the sad destruction of Roses through the late frost should lead to their cultivation upon their own roots is singularly confirmed in my been swept away, a delicate Tea-scented Rose, which I usually own case. Whilst Lamarque, Safrano, et hoc genus omne have remove for the winter to the greenhouse, has stood the severe inches of the ground it is making good shoots; it grows from frost out of doors, and though it has died back within a few its own roots.-BRUTONIENSIS. REPORT ON THE GARDEN PEAS. Committee. NUTTING & SONS. ACTION OF FROST ON THE QUALITY OF FRUITS.-A Connecticut friend states that Pears, which usually have an astringent property, are rendered of the highest excellence by a slight exposure to white frost. The Vicar of Winkfield he particularly refers to as being rendered a first-class fruit by this process. We have a neighbour who has a very large Vicar; and it has been a curious subject for speculation with us for some years past, why the fruit on some portions of the tree should be very superior, By ROBERT HOGG, LL.D., F.R.H.S., Secretary to the Fruit and on others so absolutely worthless; and we think it quite probable that the hint above noted affords the real reason. after-treatment of fruit is of quite as much importance as obtaining good kinds, and the note of our friend is worthy of more extended observation. It is well known how frost acts in removing the astringency of the Persimmon; and it is just as likely to have the same effect on the Pear. Many of our secondrate Pears would be really delicious but for a slight puckering flavour. If frost will aid in removing this objection, what a valuable fruit Louise Bonne of Jersey, for instance, would be! Of course, caution will be needed, as too much frost would induce decay.-(Gardener's Monthly). [This being an extract from an American journal, the remark upon Louise Bonne of Jersey is not applicable to that fruit grown in this country.-Eds. J. of H.] 22. November Prolific.... The plant is 2 feet high, with dark green foliage. The stem is rather robust, generally simple, but occasionally branched, and bears from twelve to sixteen pods. The pods are generally in pairs, rather short, and contain from four to six Peas in each. Ripe seed white, medium-sized, smooth, and compressed. Sown February 19th; bloomed June 16th; slatted June 28th; and the pods ready to be gathered July 11th. This somewhat resembles in growth the Royal Dwarf, but is very inferior to that variety; and, in fact, is not worth growing for any purpose. 23. Egg.... .NOBLE, COOPER, & BOLTON. This is a very old variety, and long known by the name of Black-eyed Susan,from the seed having a black hilum or eye. The plant is o a strong and robust branching habit of growth, and from 7 to 8 feet high. It produces about eighteen pods, which are almost always in pairs, and these contain about seven good-sized Peas, which are large and oval like a horse Bean. Ripe seed white, large, egg-shaped, and with a black hilum. Sown February 19th; bloomed June 20th; slatted July 18th; and the pods were ready to be gathered July 12th. This, though an abundant bearer, is quite a worthless variety, and it would be difficult to say for what object it is cultivated. The Peas have a very thick skin, and a coarse bean-like flavour, and when cooked are generally of a dusky brown colour. 24. Victoria Marrow..... .NOBLE, COOPER, & BOLTON. SYN. Gibbs' Defiance ...... GIBBS & Co. This is also known by the names of Waterloo Marrow, Giant Marrow, Wellington, Royal Victoria, and Tall Marrow. The plant is of a strong and vigorous habit of growth, having a simple stem from 6 to 7 feet high. The pods are produced near the top of the stem, sometimes single, sometimes in pairs in about equal proportion, and contain from five to seven very large Peas. Ripe seed white, large, uneven, and roundish. Sown February 19th; bloomed June 18th; slatted June 26th ; and fit for use July 13th. 25. Princess Royal.......... .TURNER. The plant is 3 feet high, a strong and vigorous grower, with dark green foliage. The stem is generally simple, but occasionally branched, bearing from ten to twelve pods, which are usually in pairs. The pods are large, and have an attractive appearance, but they fill slowly and indifferently: so much so that when opened they average only from three to six large Peas in each. Ripe seed large, round, uneven, and white. Sown February 19th; bloomed June 12th; slatted June 26th; ready for use July 20th. This variety seemed to have suffered from the cold summer, the pods having a chilled and starved appearance; and it is, therefore, not improbable but that in a warm season it may prove a useful and prolific late Marrow. III. GREEN MARROW PEAS. Ripe seed of a mixed white and olive colour, either small, round, and pitted, or large, irregular, and uneven. Foliage dark green and blotched. Pods dark bluish-green, very glaucous. 26. Prizetaker ..NOBLE, COOPER, & BOLTON. SYN. Prizetaker Green Marrow SUTTON & SONS. Rising Sun .TURNER. .BECK & CO. Leicester Defiance The plant is 4 feet to 5 feet high, of a vigorous habit of growth. The stem is sometimes simple and sometimes branched, and produces from twelve to eighteen pods. The pods are in pairs, very rarely single, and of a deep bluish-green colour, covered with a thick and distinct bloom; they contain six to seven large Peas in each, which are of a dark bluish-green. The ripe seed is small, round, and of a mixed white and green colour. Sown February 19th; bloomed June 5th; slatted June 20th; ready for use July 6th. This is a very excellent Pea, and an abundant bearer; but I cannot perceive any great difference between it and Bellamy's Early Green Marrow, which I grew in a collection for the purpose of comparison in 1853, and a very excellent form of which was grown by Messrs. Noble, Cooper, & Bolton, under the name of Noble's Early Green Marrow. In that year the latter was sown as late as the 5th of April; bloomed on the 15th of June; slatted on the 21st; and on the 8th of July the crop was ready for use. 27. Early Green Marrow NOBLE, COOPER, & BOLTON. SYN. Dwarf Green Marrow...HURST & M'MULLEN. This bears considerable resemblance to the preceding, with the exception of having a smaller pod, and being about five days later in coming into use. It also grows about 7 feet high, and is in every respect an inferior variety to it. (To be continued.) TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. Catalogue No. IX.-Stove and Greenhouse Plants, by Peter Lawson & Son, Edinburgh, London, and Hull.- This is in Messrs. Lawsons' usual 4to form, closely printed, and extending over thirty-eight pages. It is arranged into-1, Greenhouse Plants; 2, Ferns; and 3, Stove Plants, or plants cultivated under glass with heat. The first is divided into-1, Plants cultivated under glass in winter, and out-doors in summer; 2, Selection of greenhouse climbing plants; 3, Epacris; 4, Cape Heaths; 5, Indian and Chinese Azaleas; 6, Camellia japonica. The second division is arranged in-1, Greenhouse and Stove Ferns; 2, Hardy Exotic Ferns; and 3, Hardy British Ferns. The Stove Plants are divided into-1, Selection of Stove Plants; and 2, Stove Climbing Plants. We needly hardly say this catalogue is an excellent one. List of Plants of the Fir suitable for the climate of Great Britain, cultivated at St. John's, by Richard Smith, Nurseryman and Seed Merchant, Worcester.-In this catalogue we have before us a book prepared with great skill and pains, which serves the purpose not only of a priced catalogue, but a reference extends over seventy-six pages, and is in the 4to form. The for useful information on every subject which it contains. It collection of Conifers it records is an extensive and a valuable one. grown for sale by William Holmes, Well Street, Hackney, N.E., A Descriptive Catalogue of Chrysanthemums, Dahlias, &c., contains the names of everything worth having, and good We have also before us Mr. Holmes' descriptions of them. Catalogue of Garden, Agricultural, and Flower Seeds, of which the same may be said. Catalogue of Agricultural, Kitchen-garden and Flower Seeds, sold by Edward Taylor, Malton, is a copious catalogue and well got up. Descriptive Catalogue of Seeds for the Farm, the Kitchen Garden, and the Flower Garden, by John A. Bruce, Hamilton, Canada West.-This is a meritorious production, a worthy scion of a noble family, which might raise a blush on the cheek of its elder brethren. Some of our provincial and metropolitan houses, too, might take a lesson from their Canadian cousin. WORK FOR THE WEEK. KITCHEN GARDEN. As the season for applying manure in a liquid state to kitchengarden crops is approaching, it is advisable to provide a tank, a barrel, or any other sort of receptacle in the dungyard, or frameground, for receiving all the drainings of hotbeds, heaps of fermenting dung, &c. Such liquid manure produces a most beneficial effect on all crops when applied during their growing season. After the late rains it will be advisable to pass a heavy roller over the gravel walks to set and bind them well for the season. Trench up all spare ground, placing all green refuse at the bottom of the trench. Take every opportunity to destroy slugs which the recent rains have brought out from their winter quarters in abundance, an application (to be repeated), of quick lime on a warm evening after a showery day, is a well-known remedy. Basil, sow in pans or on a slight hotbed, and afterwards plant it out. Beans, earth up the early crops, but before doing so lay a little soot close to the stems; timely earthing will also prevent the wind damaging them. Broccoli, make a sowing of most of the varieties. By sowing early there is time for a second sowing in case of failure. Carrots, thin out those sown in frames, and give them a liberal supply of water when dry. Kidney Beans, a sowing may be made on a warm, sheltered border where the soil is favourable to early crops, and a sowing may be made in pots for planting out as soon as all danger from frost is over. Lettuce, loosen the soil about those planted in the open ground and save them from slugs. Onions, sow the Silver-skinned on a poor, dry piece of ground to produce picklers. Sea-kale, remove the covering immediately it is done with. If there is any yet remaining to be covered, let it be done before it grows much. Turnips, thin out those in frames, and give them water when necessary. Take every opportunity for eradicating weeds; hand-weed where practicable as it more effectually answers the purpose than hoeing and raking where the soil is moist. FLOWER GARDEN. Now is the time to come to some final arrangement as to the colours for the beds and borders, that a calculation as nearly as possible may be made of the number of plants that will be required for each bed and border. The Mimulus family may soon be transplanted in fresh patches in moist soil and situation, not forgetting that popular favourite the Musk, which should be planted in large patches. See that Narcissi and Fritillarias are staked and tied in good time. Proceed with the planting of hardy climbers against walls, trellises, and verandahs, selecting some of the most showy species of Caprifolium, Clematis, Wistaria, Bignonia, with some of the strong-growing Noisette, evergreen, and Hybrid climbing Roses. Sow, if not already done, patches of some of the most showy of the hardy annuals in vacant places that are usually to be found in the herbaceous beds, and in the edges of clumps and borders in the shrubbery. The following are suitable for the purpose-Double Poppies of various colours, African and French Marigolds, the new Sunflower, white and purple Candytufts, Clarkia, Collinsia, Nemophila, not forgetting the old and general favourite, Mignonette. If Carnations are at hand, by planting these in a group they produce a bold and striking effect. FRUIT GARDEN. The bloom of the choice kinds of Pears against walls to have some protection when frost occurs. Top-dress Raspberries, and let them be well staked. STOVE. A succession of Achimenes intended to flower late in the autumn to be placed in heat. Pans or broad shallow pots are best for their general cultivation, and as they require an abundant supply of water when in bloom, the drainage should be very perfect to admit of it without stagnating the soil. Orchids will require an increased humidity as the increasing power of the sun will induce a more rapid evaporation; an efficient shading material to be in readiness for use when wanted. Proceed with the potting when necessary, and the general regulation of the plants. Shut up a solar heat, if possible, of 80° towards three or four o'clock. GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. Proceed with the staking and tying-out of plants requiring such assistance. Turn each plant frequently round that it may not become one-sided. Where hardy shrubs are annually forced select the most suitable when removed from the conservatory, and give them some kind of shelter to harden gradually their foliage. From having been previously forced these will bloom earlier than new stock of which a portion should each year be potted to replace such as become useless for further work. Heaths, Epacrises, and other hard-wooded plants to be potted as they require it. The most suitable time is after they have done blooming and have commenced a new growth, care to be taken before potting that the whole ball is thoroughly moist, for if potted in a dry state it will be impossible afterwards to moisten it properly without saturating and souring the new soil. Look well after the Azaleas for next year's blooming. Use heat liberally to get their growth forward, and if any shoots become too luxuriant pinch the tops off. Select from the winter stock some strong well-shaped plants of Scarlet Geraniums, Fuchsias, Petunias, &c., to form large specimens for vases, and for planting out singly on the lawn or in other conspicuous situations. Give them their final shift and stake the shoots well out. PITS AND FRAMES. These will require daily attention: propagating, pricking off, hardening off, &c., to be continued for three weeks or a month longer, by which time a liberal supply of stock should be provided for all necessary purposes. Attend to covering at night when there is an appearance of frost; to giving abundant supplies of air during the day, and to watering in the morning. The Chrysanthemums when well rooted to be potted off singly into small pots; when they have made fresh growth to be stopped back to three eyes, which should be continued as they progress in growth until the beginning of July, to produce fine, dwarf, sturdy plants. Remove Scarlet Geraniums, Calceolarias, Verbenas, Petunias, &c., to a cold frame that a hardy habit may be induced preparatory to being planted out. The Liliums now in pits to receive a liberal supply of water, and to be neatly staked. Give them a top dressing of turfy peat, sand, and well-decomposed cowdung. W. KEANE. TO CORRESPONDENTS. We request that no one will write privately to the departmental writers of the "Journal of Horticulture, Cottage Gardener, and Country Gentleman." By so doing they are subjected to unjustifiable trouble and expense. All communications should therefore be addressed solely to The Editors of the "Journal of Horticulture, &c.," 162, Fleet Street, London, E.C. INITIAL LETTERS (Rosa).-Thank you for your suggestion. It is our intention to commence each Number with a pictorial initial letter, and we shall be glad to accept of and publish any pretty designs you or any other of our readers may send us. Of course we shall not engrave them unless they are approved. HARDY ANNUALS FOR EXHIBITION (Mene incepto, &c.).-There are not so many as twelve first-class annuals for compétition. Nemophilas, florum, commonly called rubrum, six plants to pick the best for the show. insignis and maculata, six plants of each to choose from. Linum grandiLobelia erinus speciosa, the best pot plant of all the annuals, although not strictly classed with annuals. Lobelia bicolor, rosea, or Lindleyana, a true annual, and, like the last, one of the best pot plants among them. Tropæclum majus, Scarlet Gem, a little improvement on the common colour of Tom Thumb Tropaeolum. Viscaria oculata nana; if you can get it warranted true from a next-door dealer, send not a distance for it; it is a Dianthus Heidewigii and laciniata, several plants of each in order to beautiful pot plant, with more and better purple than the original. choose from, there being great diversity of tints. Hunnemannia fumariafolia: some people recommend this for pots, and we mention it to say it is the very worst of all the annuals; it went out of cultivation in 1828, when Eschscholtzia came in in its place, and it should never have been revived again. Eucharidium grandiflorum and roseum make pretty gay pot plants. Collinsia bicolor, much in the same style as the last. tricolor, the same looks and value as the two last. These are all that we can think at all fit for pots; but no hardy annual is fit for pots, save to keep over the winter and help to keep a greenhouse gay in the spring, and for doing that none of this selection is good save the last two.-D. B. Gilia ANTS IN A HOTHOUSE (E. D.).-Sprinkling guano about their haunts, and Repeat the application if the first is not effectual. watering with ammoniacal liquor from the gas works, will drive them away. SOWING HALF-HARDY ANNUALS IN A WALTONIAN-CASE (A Subscriber).— They should be sown in pots, and all other seeds the same way for that way of raising them. The length of time the seedlings should remain in the case no one can tell, as no two kinds are alike exactly on that point, and every week from the 1st of March to the 10th of May makes another difference as to the length of time the seedlings should remain in the case. All the management required for a Waltonian-case is exactly the same as would be needed in a Cucumber-bed, or a bed made for cuttings and seeds in the spring, and nothing more or less, the only difference being in the mode of getting bottom heat, Now when seedlings are in too hot a place, or are too much confined, they "draw" or get spindly; to prevent which, move them to a cooler place. As the heat for warming the air of all Waltonian-cases must come from the bottom of the case, the bottom part must never be covered with mould to plant in. CINERARIA (Bowman).-Your Cineraria has not sufficient character about The flower is not large enough, and there is nothing new in the colour. it. SPORT FROM FLOWER OF THE DAY (D. C.).-Keep the one plant two or three years to see if it will sport farther; at present it is not worth increasing. ROSES FOR A SOUTH WALL (Idem).-We have very great objections to having Roses on the south or south-west sides of dwelling-houses. Such places are by far too dry and too hot for Roses, and the consequence soon is, all kinds of insects and all sorts of nasty remedies to get rid of them. The summer of 1860 was the best summer for Roses in the memory of man-very cool and very moist it was, and that the best Roses like. But how is a Rose against a south wall in a midland county to get a very cool and a very moist climate? or how is it to be kept free from insects and from liquid manure? By drawing drills, as for peas, along a border for Roses in front of the parlour window, and by filling these drills the instant, though the strongest liquid is applied, there is no fear from the fumes. If Roses against the south wall of a house had a dose like that once in ten days, from the middle of May to the end of August, and no more the year round, there would be little to do against insects than what the garden engine filled from the pond could accomplish, and with such strong-growing Roses as the following there would be the least risk and trouble:-Jules Margottin, Lord Raglan, Auguste Mie, Baronne Prevost, Alexandrine Bachmetoff, Général Jacqueminot, which are among the very best of the very free-growing Roses; and if they were on their own roots, or if worked very low on the Dog Rose, or on properly prepared stocks of Manetti, they would do second best on very strong land on the Dog Rose, or on very poor land if it suited Manettinot otherwise. But after all is said, all strong Hybrid Perpetuals are never so free from insects as when they are once well established on their own free-willing roots, and we would not plant worked Roses against a house for any consideration. MUSK MIMULUS (J. F.).-The Musk Mimulus comes from seeds exactly like the little blue Lobelias, and they, the seedlings, do best by the same treatment as is given to these blue Lobelias till they are planted out in May. Musk Mimulus will also sow itself in the open ground and come up thick as grass; it will also do to be sown thin as Mignonette where it is to grow. It is not the frost that always kills it. We know a large bed of it which stocd the frost of 1838, and 1841, and every frost since to this day without a particle of shelter, but we ourselves lost it repeatedly out of doors when they was little frost. Some people are not aware that Musk Mimulus grows four times faster and stronger in peat than in any kind of loam. We once thought we lost a bed of large half-guinea plants of the Ghent Azalea by this very Mimulus. Both came into fashion between 1828 and 1832, and it was in the latter season that we had to send mowers to clear off the Musk in large green hay-like bundles. GLADIOLI FOR A SMALL GARDEN, and for Pots (An Old Friend).-Any will grow in the open garden, and therefore regulate your choice by their colour and price. No one kind is better than another for pots, and the "roots" which are now worth 7s. 6d. a-piece, are not one whit more gay at therefore Gladiolus in pots, or Gladiolus in beds, is only a question of the two yards' distance than Brenchleyensis, which should be among the cheapest: purse. Every one of them is just as well suited for pots as any one you could choose, and every one of them is just as well suited for a bed as any other. Kinds and newness make all the difference in price. PEARS NOT KEEPING (Idem).-All the varieties you mention and many others have decayed prematurely in the past winter and spring now passing, There is scarcely a Pear to be had in Covent Garden Market. |