and develope itself wherever convenient mediums are found, without extraordinary dampness in the earth or atmosphere. In our experience of the management of artificial atmospheres we find mildews (oïdiums and erysiphe, and others) produced rapidly on plants growing in soil that is allowed to become dry, while the atmosphere is charged with the usual moisture. This state of things produces want of genial action between the roots, leaves, and fruit. Under such conditions mildew makes its appearance, particularly if the temperature is lowered or raised. Farmers in England know that if damp weather in July succeed that which has been bright without the intervention of rain, the Wheats are in general injured by rust-fungi; and the farmer at the Cape is aware that dull, damp weather, succeeding our usual bright sunshine without the intervention of sufficient rain to moisten the soil, produces the rust or smut. A thorough saturation of the soil would produce reciprocity of action between roots and leaves, or stem, and immunity from disease. Gardeners in England can only produce autumn crops of Peas, &c., by destroying the mildew attacking the plants by copious waterings and thorough saturation of the soil. Mildew is destroyed on wall Peaches in the same way and by a vigorous use of the syringe.

Watering the foliage and other parts of the Vine before applying the flowers of sulphur is strongly advocated in some quarters, but as the sulphur is quite insoluble in water, it is clear, water cannot assist the action of the sulphur on the disease. Without it can be shown the application of water is beneficial in some other way, we decidedly advise its discontinuance before dusting. It is a waste of time at a critical moment when all hands should be applying the sulphur.

It will be seen by those who have followed us thus far, that vineyards densely shaded and sheltered by trees and rising grounds, and where the Vines are a "thicket" from close planting and luxuriant growth, are, in all cases, most severely affected with the scourge. The Steen Grape Vine is one of the strongest and largest growers, growing, in fact, to occupy a space double the size usually allotted to it. This Grape is the most severely affected with disease; it may naturally be more disposed to its attacks, but the want of a free circulation of air amongst the Vines, and the exclusion of sun and air from acting on the soil of the vineyard from the dense shade, must be ascribed much of the extreme virulence with which the variety is attacked. The Steen being an excellent wine Grape deserves a trial on another system of cultivation before being discarded by the wine farmer as more liable to disease than others.

Where plantations of the Steen now exist, planted at the old traditional distance of "three feet by three," let them be thinned out to stand 6 feet apart, plant from plant. Prune late, so as to allow a little bleeding, which would check any disposition to luxuriant growth, produced by the larger feeding-space of the roots. The horseboe, or "seuffler," would be sufficient for digging and cleaning the ground, and more economical than manual labour. Treated in this way, the Steen may be found no more liable to the scourge than other varieties.

Generally, the Grape Vine is planted far too close at the Cape; and no judgment whatever appears to be exercised in the allotment of space to size. We found, during our late tour, extensive tracts recently planted with all sorts of Grapes, all at the same distances; Pontacs, Frontignacs, and Muscadels, Green Grape, French Grape (white Nice), and Steen Grape. The last three should, under all circumstances of soil, &c., have double the space of the first three. It appears to us that there is much room for improvement in the selection of sites for vineyards, and in the mode of planting and general cultivation of the Vine at the Cape, and at a future time we will take leave to lay our ideas on these points before the wine farmers.

The condition of the Peach, and the loss of crop this season, is ascribed to the Oidium Tuckeri. This, however, is not the case. We were unable to detect mildew on any of the numerous Peach trees examined. In cold climates mildew is often present with other diseases on the Peach, but it is a different species from that attacking the Vine. The mildew of the Peach is Oidium erysiphoides, long known in Europe. Practically, its attacks on the Peach are found more severe in dry springs than in those that are genial and moist. The blistering and curling up of the leaves, and the dropping off of the blossoms before setting, and consequent loss of crop, is what we have now to do with. It is produced by the state of the weather and by a want of reciprocity between the action of the roots and leaves when the leaves are about half grown-the leaves drawing more on

the roots than they are adequate to supply. The sudden warm weather we had during the latter end of August brought into strong action the stem and young expanding leaves, while the roots in the cold soil, not yet warmed by the gradual heat of the sun's rays, were unable to send into the leaves that supply of sap so necessary for their development-they began to curl and blister in the way we find them. The leaves being in this state, the proper elaboration and evaporation of the sap could not go on; the plant only opened its blossoms to shed them. As the soil warmed, and the proper reciprocity began between roots, leaves, and branches, the blistered and curled leaves were thrown off, and the trees produced the fine healthy foliage we now find them clothed with. The crop, however, is lost for this season. Total Vines, 3,410,000.-ĴAMES MCGIBBON.

VARIETIES.

SOLANUM FENDLERI.-In Western Texas and New Mexico a new species of the Potato was discovered some years ago, which, from its being so closely allied to the common Potato, great expectations were formed that it might resist disease, and, As we believe Mr. perhaps, supplant the common Potato. Fendier, the distinguished botanical collector who discovered it, and in whose honour it was named, is now engaged in connection with the Botanical Garden of St. Louis, we call attention to the matter, in the hope that he may be able to put some parties on the track of introducing it for experiment.

FERTILISER FOR CABBAGE.-Superphosphate of lime, especially when mixed with some rotten wood (not pine wood) and worked into the ground, has a powerful effect on Cabbages.(Cotton Planter.)

APPLES IN OREGON.-This is becoming a staple crop in Oregon. The O. Farmer says one firm in Portland have been "for a long time past bringing over one thousand bushels per day."

FARFUGIUM GRANDE has been found quite hardy on the grounds of Hovey & Co., Boston, Mass.

TO STOP LEAKAGE IN HOT-WATER PIPES.-Get some iron borings, or filings, and mix them with vinegar, forming it into a salve; with this fill up the cracks where the leaking 18, and if the pipe has been previously dried, and is kept dry until this has become quite hard, it will never fail to effectually stop the leakage, and will stand for a length of time. If an iron pipe should burst, or there should be a hole broken into it by accident, a piece of iron may be securely fastened over it, by bedding it on, in a salve made of iron borings and vinegar; but the pipe should not be used until it has become perfectly firm.-(American Gardener's Monthly.)

THE ILLUSTRATED BOUQUET.

THE twelfth part of this fashionable book of flowers- the part for past July-completes the second volume of the work; a title page and ample indices accompany the part just issued. Plate 47, with which this part opens, is filled with the charming Convolvulus mauritanicus by Mrs. Withers. This is the best hangingbasket plant in cultivation in our opinion. We have seen a perfectly developed specimen of it at the Wellington Road Nursery, in the spring of last year, and it was shown at the opening exhibition of Kensington Gore last June. It is a greenhouse plant, requiring the same treatment as Petunias and Verbenas in-doors, and like them it lasts a long while out in beds, or as edgings to those of considerable size. The basket and the natural habit of the plant are so happily set off by Mrs. Withers in this plate, that it may be said to be one of the best efforts of her untiring pencil. Under this lovely picture we have a selection from all the hanging-basket plants in cultivation. The names being arranged in four sections, according to the size and substance the plants attain to under ordinary treatment—a most valuable list to all amateurs and to many gardeners in the country. Plate 48, a bird's-eye view of the Wellington Road Nursery. Plate 49, also by Mrs. Withers, represents six kinds of the best of the new breed of Tropaeolumns-that is, the cross breed from Lobbianum. The colours are most artistically and harmoniously placed in this plate, which is a sampler to students who may be studying the art of designing composition flower gardens. The next plate is occupied with Epig, neum leucobotrys, one of the prettiest gems in cultivation, for which the Floral Committee gave its highest award last autumn. It is a dwarf

greenhouse shrub, with long, dense clusters of ivory white berries, and each berry with a jet black ring near the end of it, hanging down like fairy Grapes, if there are such. To this succeeds a plate of Pompone Dahlias, vulgarly called Tom Thumbs and Liliputians. They stand exactly in the same relation to the large florists' Dahlias, as the Pompones do to the big Chrysanthemums. They are as varied, or soon will be, as the titles among the peerage of their race; but six only, how

ever, could be exhibited on one plate. Here, again, Miss Sowerby, from whose pencil we have this and the last plate, has balanced and contrasted the colours exceedingly well. And the last plate is of one of the new hybrid race of Coral trees, called Erythrina Belangerii. Mr. Bedwell was the first cross-breeder who broke into the Coral trees some years since in Australia; since then, continental breeders have been busy on them, and this Belangerii is one of the best of their productions.

THE generic name has now a classical derivation, from Cypris, Venus, and podion, a shoe or slipper; but our early herbalists dedicated the genus to the Virgin Mary, and we find it in their pages under the title of "Calceolus Maria, Our Ladies Shoo or Slipper," whilst the Germans devoted it to her High Priest, and called it Papen scou, or Pope's Shoe. In those days but one species was known, but modern collectors, stimulated by the prevailing taste for Orchids, have largely added to the number of known species. The following are two of the hardy kinds, and were thus described in the now-extinct "Gardeners' Magazine of Botany."

CYPRIPEDIUM ATSMORI, Morren. Many-leaved Japan Lady's Slipper (La Belg. Hort., i., t. 21).-Nat. Ord. Orchidaceae, § Cypripediea. Syn., C. calceolus, Thunberg; Atsmori so of the Japanese.-A leafy-stemmed hardy perennial, growing about a foot high, with acute, lance-shaped, plaited, smooth leaves, and about two flowers, of which the labellum is yellow, slipper-shaped, or calceiform, and the sepals and petals rich purplish-brown, the petals with purple hairs at the greenish-yellow base. It is allied to the true C. calceolus, according to M. Morren, from which it differs in having its leaves more lanceolate and glabrous, in the bracts being much more narrowly lanceolate and pointed, in the flowers being altogether narrower and more meagre, in the base of the petals being distinctly hairy, in the remarkable narrowness of the sepals, in the less ventricose pouch, cleft rather than toothed in front, in the lengthened trowel-like form of the sterile stamens, and in the longer filiform base of the lateral stamens. From Japan. Introduced by Dr. Von Siebold, in 1830, to Belgium. Flowers in summer. Probably cultivated in the Botanic Gardens of Ghent and Leyden.

CYPRIPEDIUM GUTTATUM, Swartz. Spotted-flowered Lady's Slipper (Flore des Serres, vi., t. 573). Nat. Ord., Orchidaceæ, § Cypripediem. A beautiful little herb. aceous perennial. It has a short stem, bearing a pair of ovateelliptic, amplexicaul, plaited leaves, with the margins and ribs hairy. The flowers, one to each stem, are white, beautifully blotched with rose

purple. The sepals and petals are shorter than the lip, which is subrotund, with a plain surface. The whole plant is under 6 inches high, the flowers measuring about 2 inches lengthwise. It grows in boggy places in cold countries, but appears shy under cultivation. From Siberia and North America. Introduced originally in 1828. Flowers in summer. M. Van Houtte, of Ghent.

TO GARDENING. (Continued from page 379.)

THE WEDGE.

THE wedge may be described as two inclined planes placed base to base. Nails, the edge of an axe, needles, brad-awls, and many cutting instruments are able to penetrate the substances which they are required to pierce, by being of a wedge form. We showed, in considering the inclined plane, that the more gradual the slope-that is, the more acute its angle, the less force was required to impel up it a weight, and precisely for the same reason the more tapering-that is, the more acute the angle of a wedge, the less force is required to make it penetrate. Supposing the nail A is one-eighth of an inch in diameter at its widest

part, and requires a force of 200 lbs. to drive it home, then the nail B, being one-fourth of an inch in diameter, would require 400 lbs. to do the same. The wood and the lengths of the nails being alike. Even where the angle of the wedge and the force of each blow are accurately known it is difficult to calculate the power of the wedge exactly. For example, in spliting either timber or stone, the divided parts act as levers to pull those parts asunder, and, consequently co-operate with the wedge in effecting the division. Thus, if a log of timber 6 feet long is split by the wedge through half its length, the other half is much more easily split, because the two sections of the half divided act as levers, and their assisting force progressively increases in proportion as the cleft is extended by the wedge.

Mr. Ferguson correctly observes that the wedge is an important mechanical power, because it effects divisions which could not be effected by the lever, the wheel and axle, or the pulley, for the force of the impelling blows makes the cohering parts vibrate, and thus enables them to separate more easily; yet, we should scarcely have noticed it if we had not seen it employed very efficiently in levelling down a ridge of gravel so hard and conglomerate that but for the assistance of a row of oaken wedges the labour would have been tenfold.

In this instance a straight line was marked with the pickaxe at about 2 feet from the brink of the surface of the rocky gravel and along that line about twenty obtuse wedges were driven, separating a mass about 40 feet long, and rendering it easily precipitable into the hollow below which was required to be filled up. (To be continued.)

--N. H. POWNALL, Holme Pierrepont, Nottingham.

[Flower of the Day was a variegated seedling raised by Mr. Kinghorn, and it has been throwing up green sports every year since it was let out. Miller, in his "Gardeners' Dictionary," recorded the first variegated Geranium from seeds-the crimson variegated Geranium, of which there is now a bed full of it on the Rose Mount at the Crystal Palace. Mr. Beaton says that every plain Geranium which throws off a variegated sport, and every variegated Geranium which makes plain sports like that you sent, might have been recorded as variegated seedlings, if people had known how to deal with the seedlings. Mr. Lenox exhibited variegated seedlings, and plenty of them, at the old Chiswick Shows many years ago. Mr. Beaton tells us he had variegated Geranium seedlings every year, except two, since 1845, and now he says he has more of them than he knows what to do with. But he assures us that you have mistaken the views of both the "OLD SHOWMAN" and his own on this matter, and that it would be of no practical use to discuss the question on your issue. He adds that Mr. Knight, who was the founder of the best part of our knowledge of these things, that a diseased fruit tree, a cankered Apple tree say, could not be cured by budding or grafting, and that seedlings from it would inherit the disease. But if you take Flower of the Day as a diseased Geranium, and Alma as one much more affected with the same disease, and cross them, if the theory of this disease is sustain. able, all your seedlings ought to inherit it, as seedlings always do, when real disease is in the system of one or both of the parents, as well in the animal as the vegetable kingdom; but your seedlings from those very diseased parents will be healthy. How is that? But trusses of all Geraniums from first to last never did, and never will, travel in letters or close boxes without falling to pieces the moment the box or basket or letter is opened. We could see nothing of your flowers but a confused jumble of loose petals. The way to send Scarlet Geraniums is to cut a long piece of the flower-stalk with the truss when the first flower has opened, by planting the stalk in wet sand, the receiver will see most of the flowers opening one after another; but a truss of open flowers will not remain entire over two miles by post.]

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Broccoli and Cauliflowers. Cabbage, make a sowing to stand Brussels Sprouts, continue to plant them out, as also Cape in the seed-bed through the winter; also a sowing of Red Dutch for summer use. Cauliflowers;-about the 21st of the Cos Lettuce to stand through the winter. The ground to be month is generally selected for sowing them, as also the Bath not over-rich to prevent luxuriant growth; to sow thick, and to prick them out in time before they become lanky. Coleworts, drawn off those that are in frames during gentle showers of get out plants on rich ground. Cucumbers, the lights may be rain, but not when the rain is so heavy as to be likely to injure the leaves. Gather Gherkins for pickling. Dwarf Kidney Beans, keep the crop closely gathered, for if allowed to remain until they are too old for use, they discontinue to bear as they otherwise would do. Onions, sow a good breadth. The Welsh is hardy, and the Deptford will bear the winter well, but the Silverskinned is most invaluable as a winter crop. Pull up and house

DAY.

“AN OLD SHOWMAN" in a contemporary publication recently speaking on the variegation of Geraniums says, "He understood Flower of the Day came variegated from a seedling, the only variegated Geranium on record that did so to his knowledge." Last year my plants of this Geranium were sorry scrubs, but I planted them during the summer, wet and cold as it was. There were two or three of them threw up plain shoots from the crown of the plants, which I, in a fit of curiosity, took off and propagated. This year I have them planted out; the habit of the sports is stronger than the parent, and the colour of the flower is deeper. I enclose a truss and leaf. How does Mr. Beaton's theory of the cause of variegation in plants being some disturbance at the birth of the seed stand affected by this? Does his argument cut both ways? Is this not rather a corroboration of the views of "AN OLD SHOWMAN," that variegation is caused by disease, and vice versa? Is there such a Scarlet Geranium as Queen's Perfection? I enclose you a truss and

necks the tops may be broken down; if not, there is no which shade the fruit from the sun. Keep all the shoots stopped advantage in doing so. Tomatoes, remove some of the leaves when there is sufficient young fruit on the plants. As the rains beds and recently-transplanted crops. Keep the soil loose where are very partial, it is necessary in many localities to water seedpracticable. Give timely thinnings to the crops that require them, and water afterwards if the soil is dry. Turnips, sow the Dutch and Stone sorts on some spare plots of ground.

FLOWER GARDEN.

It will be necessary to go over the beds frequently, pegging down where necessary, removing decayed flowers, and cutting back such of the shoots as encroach upon the edgings of the beds. During hot weather take care that newly-formed beds of Pinks and Pansies do not suffer from drought. Finish the layering of Carnations and Picotees. Pull out decayed petals from the calices where seed-pods are forming, otherwise wet will lodge and the seeds perish. The shoots of those trees infested with

mildew, to be dusted with sulphur vivum. Look over rock plants, pruning back any that are overgrowing choice kinds, in order to give them sufficient time to break again before autumn. Peg down a few shoots of Chrysanthemums for layering in small pots; this is better done after the shoots have turned up at their points.

STOVE.

Continue former directions in this house as to heat and moisture, and giving plenty of air. Endeavour to get the Ixoras and other such plants to make luxuriant shoots, which, if properly ripened, are sure to produce fine heads of bloom. Pay attention to Begonias, Euphorbias, and all such winter-blooming plants; and, if not already out, a month's exposure in a sheltered corner in the open air will give fresh vigour to Luculias. Expose such plants of Stephanotis as have completed their growth to the full sun, both to get the wood properly ripened, and to get them gradually to rest.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Look out for mildew on Boronias, Gompholobiums, &c., and when visible to be dusted with sulphur. Pot Tropaeolums of all kinds, giving them a free, open soil, with plenty of sand and drainage, to be placed in the open air until the end of next month. Some of the Indian Azaleas will now have set their flower-buds, and may be removed to the greenhouse. Stove plants flowering in the conservatory will require attention to prevent them from being injured by damp, especially Achimenes and Clerodendrons, which should be gone over every day to pick off decayed flowers, &c. Some of the shoots of the climbers on the roof which have done blooming, to be thinned out to prevent them from shading the house too much, as after this time permanent shade should be avoided. It is advisable after this to be anticipating the approach of winter, and to use every possible means to forward the growth of hardwooded plants in order to get it somewhat firm and able to resist damp, &c., as soon as possible. Pelargoniums which have been cut down and have commenced to grow, to be shaken out of their pots and repotted in others of smaller size. Give attention to Chinese Primroses, and sow Mignonette for blooming late in the season. Prick out and pot seedling Cinerarias for early blooming. The state of the drainage of Heaths and New Holland plants to be examined, more especially those plants that have been standing out of doors. Roses, Lilacs, and other plants for forcing must also be examined, and such as require it to be repotted; plunging the pots afterwards, and watering when necessary.

PITS AND FRAMES.

Some of the first-struck cuttings will now be fit for potting off. Place them in a pit or frame; shade and keep them close until they have established themselves in their pots, when they should be set out in the open air to harden them off before being housed for the winter. Continue to put in cuttings as soon as possible, more especially of the Flower of the Day, and the best kinds of Pelargoniums for bedding, to get good strong plants before winter. Thin out the Mignonette sown some weeks back. Look to Viole's, and keep the runners removed, and encourage them with manure water once a-week. W. KEANE.

DOINGS OF THE LAST WEEK.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

THE weather continuing fine, ran the Dutch hoe among all bushes mostly deprived of their fruit, to destroy weeds when seen, and to dry up the little things almost imperceptible to the eye. Hoed also among all growing crops of the various kinds of Greens, and forked up by the sides of the rows of Peas, and Dwarf Kidney Beans, and Scarlet Runners, to allow air and manure water to enter freely. Watered all these, and Globe Artichokes, and Cauliflowers, and Lettuces as far as our limited supply would permit; making up the deficiency with surface stirring, and mulching with short grass and litter to keep the moisture in. Hardly anything could stand the heat and sunshine of the 12th and 13th without flagging. The roots could not absorb moisture fast enough to meet the great amount of transpiration. Took up Shallots and Garlic, and tied them in bundles to be hung up in a shed. Took up, also, autumn-sown Onions, and laid down the spring-sown ones by pressing the head of a rake close to their necks along the rows. This will

cause the remainder of the strength of the plant to go into the bulbs, and is necessary on another account, as the points of the leaves are getting mildewed from the long-continued dull wet weather. Sowed a piece of Early Horn Carrots for early winter drawing, cooks liking them for soups; also Lettuces, Onions, &c., and a small piece of Turnips for early winter use. Of all Turnips none is esteemed here like the American Red Top. It is excellent when boiled, and when raw is better than half the Melons that are sent to table, if supplied with plenty of water until the day they were cut. Stopped and regulated Vegetable Marrows and Cucumbers; the Custard has not done so well with us this extra well, and really, when cooked young, not so large as two season. The common Marrow, on the other hand, has done hens' eggs put end to end-I do not think there is much difference between them. A friend says that the size of a hen's egg is large enough; but if not the length of two eggs, the fruit ought to be the length of one and a half, though they are very nice larger than that. Perhaps I am scarcely a judge, as I just manage generally to taste them once a-year. They are altogether too rich an affair for me. Small Custards when from 2 inches to 2 inches across at the base make an excellent dish when cooked whole, and from three to six served together. When of that size they have scarcely any heart, and can be used with gravy and sauce at once. The common Marrows have hardly any heart either when young; but when they are 4 inches or 6 inches long and from 14 inch to 2 inches in diameter, the following is a receipt I once had from a first-rate cook, and I can guarantee the turning out of a perfect delicacy to all whose stomachs enable them to feed upon Marrow. "Cut the fruit with about an inch of the stalk adhering. Wash the exterior clean, and place it in a saucepan of water close on the boiling-point; boil slowly for fifteen minutes or more, according to size. When the prongs of a fork enter the fruit very easily it is soft enough and done. A little practice will settle all that. But the fork must not be much used, as much of the delicacy will consist in preventing the water in which the fruit is boiled getting inside. For this purpose the stalk is left long. When soft enough place the Marrow on a plate, slit up longitudinally, remove all the heart or seed part, allow it to drain; place the two halves on a warm plate, and eat with the sauce most approved of." For gardeners like myself nothing is better than a nip of sweet butter, and salt and pepper to taste; and simple though all be, neither Jupiter nor Juno, if such folk ever ate, would by any means shrug their shoulders at it, unless from an excess of pleasure. Pruned and regulated Tomatoes, the first bunches ripening nicely.

FRUIT-HOUSES,

We merely repeated here the work of last week; and in the open garden removed extra shoots and laterals from Peach trees, Apricots, Apples, Pears, and Plums. Gave the latter, the fruit of which were not changing, good lashings with sulphur lime water to remove all trace of fly and insects, and the smell helps to keep off flies and wasps, which threaten to be troublesome since these hot days, and which when they cannot get ripe fruit will fasten on green. Gathered Morellos for tarts, bottling, and brandy, at least the forwardest of them.

STRAWBERRIES.

Cannot yet get at the Strawberry quarters to clear away all runners, though sadly wishing to do so. Commenced potting the Strawberry plants layered in small pots, and those, which to save time, were taken at once from the beds and pricked out in rich soil below glass, where they were shaded for ten days, afterwards had air, and then were fully exposed. There is little difference in these plants, only those planted in the bed are a little drawn from being placed thickly together, and could we have got at them ought to have been potted eight days ago. Our sorts are chiefly a few Black Prince for early work, and Keens' Seedling and British Queen, with a few others for variety, but those will be our standards. A number of Keens' will be put in four-inch pots, or what are called 48's, for the earliest work. The bulk will go in 32's, or six-inch pots. A good proportion of them will be one plant to a pot; but some of the weaker ones we will put two plants in a pot. At one time I was all for one plant in a pot, but considerable experience has left me more in doubt; and last season, though all the plants did remarkably well, I rather think that the pots with two plants in each brought rather the heaviest late crops. For early work I prefer one plant in a pot even if the pot should be smaller, as much

depends on having the main bud so well elevated as not to be influenced by damp or injudicious watering. This is not so easily done when two plants are put in a pot, as the plants must stand at the sides opposite each other. With a single plant in a pot it can be fixed well up in the centre, something in the way that Heaths used to be potted in our young days. A good fresh loam with a little rotten dung is the best compost to use; but far more than any sort of compost or manure is the mode of potting. Loose potting will never give a good crop. If the man's fingers are not strong enough to squeeze the soil tightly, let him use a piece of wood and ram the soil tight in the pots, keeping the collar of the plant above the rim of the pot. I am no advocate for larger pots, unless two-year-old plants are used, as they do in many places in the north. In such cases the yield is generally good, but the individual fruits are not generally so fine. I consider the end of July better than the first and second week of August for potting; but I have sometimes been disappointed in very strong plants from early potting. Plants with well-ripened buds and pots not only crammed firm with soil but one mass of healthy roots, are of more importance than very strong plants if these are not equally well ripened. In very early potting the main bud is also apt to split into two or three, and the produce, therefore, is not generally so good as respects quality, as when the plant has only one strong central bud. For myself I should have liked to have potted the runners eight or ten days earlier, and, therefore, I must hasten the perfecting and maturing the plants, by giving them less pots to grow in, the best and sunniest position, the richest nourishment until the end of September, and every chance of ripening the buds by comparative dryness afterwards. In my opinion there are just two secrets for securing early Strawberries under ordinary management. The first is firm potting; the second is ripening of the plant. To secure the last the pots must not be too large, as that gives an impetus to the growing and retards the maturing process: hence, I have seen more fruit gathered from a dozen plants in 48-pots, than from a similar number of 24-pots.

PLANT-HOUSES.

At the bottom of the page 385, the word "Calceolarias," ought to have been "Caladiums." I daresay in these busy times some of us are a sad pest to the printers. Much the same work was continued in the plant-houses, potting, top dressing, re-arranging, regulating climbers, and keeping all neat being the order of the day. Lantanas, the varieties of which are very beautiful, though the scent is not enticing, struck in spring, have received their final potting for autumn blooming, and along with Browallias and Cassias, &c., will relieve the masses of Fuchsias and Balsams. Ericas and Epacrises should be put under glass, so that they may be defended from autumn rains, and yet plenty of air given back and front. For this purpose pits built above ground, as alluded to the other week, are better than sunk pits, as air may be admitted by openings level with the floor of the pit, as well as by tilting the sashes over the tops of the plants. Where pits are not so constructed, garden frames are more suitable for all such plants that are at once dwarf and compact enough to go beneath them. The frame may be elevated a brick or two at the corners, and then, with the sashes also elevated back and front, there is a thorough circulation of air; and the glass, by keeping off rains and heavy dews, and yet allowing heat and light to penetrate freely, secures the ripening of the wood and the setting of the buds. Were it not for want of room, want of conveniences, and the desire for novelty and change in little space, Camellias, Azaleas, and many other things now summered out of doors, would be better by glass protection at all times.

GERANIUMS.

The finest masses of Scarlet Geraniums out of doors, at least in quantities, I ever saw, were some four or five years ago at the Crystal Palace, in the vases along the terraces. The massive masonwork, and the vases themselves, as well as the huge building, were so light, that no colour would have told like the scarlet. A slight fringe of blue drapery round the scarlet might have softened the whole; but I may be in error. One thing ought to be stated, that owing to the reflection of the sun's rays from all such light-coloured substances, it is difficult to induce small trailing plants to come over the edges of such vases. Be this as it may, the whole accompaniments marked out scarlet as the colour for those vases.

the vases at the Crystal Palace-were in beds beneath the glasscovered portico of a small country mansion. The back of the portico, where not covered by plants, was a dark green; the narrow wired pilasters that seemed to support the front of the roof, there being an iron column behind them, were also dark green; the curb that bounded the beds was, or was made, to look like red sandstone, and a narrow walk surrounding it of bright red gravel. Now, looking at the Geraniums from a little distance the effect was magnificent-the green gave repose to the eye. When you entered the verandah and looked down on the mass of scarlet, it was no less dazzling; but the charm was gone. The eye was rather dazzled than delighted. The red glare of the heated gravel left no soft spot of repose or of contrast for the eye to rest upon, and the flowers were so dense as to show but little of their own green foliage. A stone-coloured wall, and especially a floor of light stone instead of red gravel, would have left the Geraniums as much at home as the vases at Sydenham. A strip of white Nosegay (Hendersonii) round the scarlet, or a band of white Ivy-leaved Geranium, or a mixture of white and blue, such as Variegated Alyssum and blue Lobelia, would have given repose to the eye and made the scarlet all the more dazzling and beautiful.

On the same principle, single, or even a pair of beds, if entirely of one colour, however attractive the colour may be, will seldora be satisfactory, unless the grass or other surroundings are peculiarly fitted to mellow down that colour. For want of contrast and repose many single beds, otherwise gay, cease to be attractive and pleasing, though the reason why they are so is often never suspected. Whether shaded or contrasted, two colours under such circumstances will generally be more telling than one.

If the present hot weather continues, however, we shall have no need of glass-covered ground to have Scarlet Geraniums in fine condition. They are now fast coming up to the mark, though not yet so fine as in some seasons. A little disleafing has enabled the sun to exert more power. Unless in the case of the tenderer variegated kinds, Scarlets fairly established out of doors hardly ever require the assistance of the watering-pot; Golden Chain, Alma, &c., though delighting in the sunshine, are not so patient of drought, and will need watering; Ivyleaved kinds, as respects moisture, need intermediate treatment. Removed some of the larger leaves of these, and stopped the points to encourage free blooming. The terminal bud of the strong Scarlets may also now be nipped out, as it will take all the season to mature the buds now showing. The decayed petals should also be nipped out of large trusses where there are many blooms to open; this, if possible, should be done always before wet is expected. The faded petals not only are disfiguring, but they discolour the sound petals remaining, and make them dirty and miserable.

The weather that has proved so suitable to Geraniums has been trying to Calceolarias, however dense the ground be covered. We have been obliged first to water individual plants, and then to water them as we could generally. Every means will be taken compatible with neatness to keep the moisture in, though there are signs we shall soon have moisture from the heavens, and perhaps more than the husbandman may want for the harvest. Nasturtiums, as Tom Thumb and other favourite kinds, have wanted much leaf-picking to make them a mass of bloom this season; but this is required in most seasons where masses of bloom are more desired than foliage. There is so much succulence in the shoots, that, without interfering at all with them, the flowers will be benefited rather than otherwise by removing three parts of the foliage, just leaving enough to prevent a bald appearance.

Tied and regulated Hollyhocks, Dahlias, &c., and just commenced the propagating of bedding plants by inserting cuttings of climbing plants-as Maurandyas, Lophospermums, Cobœas, using short side shoots of the latter, and small side pieces or points of Tropaeolum elegans, which has also required much disleafing in our heavy ground this season. Will follow leisurely with Verbenas, Geraniums, &c., leaving the Calceolarias generally until October. The plants of the florist Pelargoniums will soon be pruned; they are not too hard as yet. Nothing is gained by pruning them back whilst in a soft immature condition. If a shower comes now, we shall place them all on their sides, to prevent the soil being wetted. The more the shoots resemble a piece of Oak before pruning the better will the plants do ultimately, though they may break more languidly at first.