I now come to single eyes. These approach the nearest to seedlings, and for permanency form the very best plants. In saving wood for buds to raise young Vines, avoid coarse strong shoots; choose rather such as are round and of a medium strength, with as little pith as possible, and also choose the cuttings from Vines that have been forced early-not only because the wood is sure to be well ripened, but also the buds in the natural course of the season will be more easily excited to start early. Also prefer the buds that are nearest to the preceding year's wood, taking care, however, that each bud is plump and sound. Take off the shoots intended to be propagated as soon as convenient, label each bundle correctly, and lay them in by the heels on a shady border. Towards the middle of December place some soil, composed of fresh good loam, leaf mould, and very rotten dung, in equal parts, in a warm shed to dry. Have ready a sufficient number of pots 3 inches wide. Then about New Year's Day bring the cuttings inside, and cut them into short lengths, one bud to each length. One inch in length will be sufficient. The part behind the bud is then reduced in thickness, and cut off in a slanting direction towards the ends, and the part under the bud horizontal. The cutting will then have this appearance

Fill the pots nearly up to the brim, and with a small dibble insert one bud or eye in each pot quite overhead. To prevent mistakes do all one kind first, and place a label or number to that lot before commencing with the next variety. This method of putting the eyes at the first in separate pots is much better than placing a number in a shallow pan, or wide-mouthed pot, because in repotting not a single root need to be injured. When all are potted and securely labelled, then place the pots in a propagating-house on a platform covered with sand. Under the platform there should be hot-water pipes, and there should be a sufficient extent of pipes to get up a heat of 70°. At first, however, a temperature of 50° will be sufficient, and raise 5° every week till the maximum is reached. During all this time a moist atmosphere should be kept up in order to cause the eyes to swell and break kindly. In a month or six weeks every bud will be breaking through the soil and forming roots downwards. Keep the soil regularly moist, but not wet, for too much water would cause some to damp off. As the leaves begin to expand more water may be given.

Examine a pot or two occasionally by turning out the ball carefully, and as soon as the roots reach the sides of the pots generally, then place a lot more of the compost in a warm place to air it. Cold soil at this stage would chill the young roots and check their growth. As soon as it is sufficiently aired, then begin to repot the young Vines, being always careful to keep them from draughts of cold air. I prefer, if possible, to repot them in the propagating-house itself.

Shift them into six-inch pots, giving plenty of drainage. These pots will carry them on growing till the middle of May, when a second repotting may be given them, placing them in eightinch or nine-inch pots. They will now require more room and plenty of air, and liberal supplies of water, and liquid manure. Place a tall stick to each Vine, and look sharp after red spiders and destroy them. After a sunny day use the syringe freely, which will keep down insects and encourage growth.

In these pots they may be allowed to finish their growth-I mean such as are intended for planting out. They should make shoots in them 8 feet or 10 feet long, and as thick as a penholder.

If it is desired to fruit a few in pots, then give such another repotting in June into fourteen-inch pots, using more loam in the compost to give solidity to the wood. Vines for this purpose should be stopped when 10 feet long, and should have more light and space to each. I shall, however, give a more full description on this part of the subject under the head "pot culture."

By starting the eyes into growth so early as described above, the cultivator will have the advantage of getting his Vines into strong growth early, and thus be enabled to obtain good plants with well-ripened wood before the summer is over. (To be continued.) T. APPLEBY.

TRAINING PLUM TREES-PEACH TREES

UNDER VINES.

I HAVE your book "Fruit Gardening for the Many," and I find it very useful; but with regard to pruning the Plum trees (especially trained trees), I do not quite understand the mode adopted. Is it laying in all the side shoots (except breast shoots, &c.), without any shortening? and if so, how are the second year's shoots to be obtained, as there generally is but one wood-bud at the end of the shoots, and that would cause nakedness? Should the shoots be spurred in?

Can Peaches be grown to advantage in a house covered with Vines ?-J. G., Chelmsford.

medium strength, and cutting away the redundant ones if very [The side shoots of Plums should be laid in, choosing those of strong or very weak. These should be far enough apart to permit all be shortened less or more. of light acting freely on them. In general these side shoots should This causes every bud on a young shoot to break, and most likely these will furnish little spurs which will bear for years. If they do not form a spur naturally, but grow on into breastwood shoots, these should be stopped when 3 inches or 4 inches long, and stopping continued a little to arrest mere rampant growth, to let the sun to the base-buds, and to cause such concentration of organised sap there as to make them assume the character of fruit-buds.

The Peaches cannot be grown to advantage in a vinery, if the main stems of the Vines are closer than from 4 feet to 6 feet apart. The latter distance would be the best.]

FORCING.

KIDNEY BEANS.

A LATE crop of these may be obtained in autumn by sowing in a cold pit in August, and covering with glass at the end of September. A later autumn crop may be obtained by sowing in pots in September, and placing them where artificial heat may be given them by the middle of October. Fair spring crops may be grown in dung-beds after the middle or end of March. Seeds sown in heat on the 1st of April, plants hardened off, and turned out into a cold pit under glass, will produce freely from the end of May. Seeds sown in small pots, three in a 60-pot a fortnight later, may be turned out by the second week in May for the first out-door crop, receiving only the protection of a green branch on planting. All through the winter it is next to lost labour to attempt growing them without the assistance of fire heat in some shape or other. From November to January they need about ten weeks from sowing the seeds to gathering the pods. From January to May from eight to seven and six weeks. In the winter months I prefer growing in six or seveninch pots, placing four or five seeds in a pot after it was threeparts filled with sandy loam and leaf mould. The soil must neither be heavy nor rich at this dark season. I have mentioned so many seeds in a pot, but I seldom sow where they are to grow at once. Economy in space is secured by sowing rather thickly in a moveable box, and transplanting when the first leaf shows above the seed-leaves. The plants are thus rendered more sturdy and more fruitful. At this season we stop none, which tends to promote earliness. Such plants when growing freely are earthed up with light soil a little richer, to within half an inch of the rim of the pot. As we get into January and February, we use larger pots, from 8 inches to 12 inches in diameter, much stronger and richer soil, and about four plants to a pot; and after that season we nip out the terminal bud when a joint is made above the seed-leaves. These pots will do admirably in any sunny spare part of a house, where the night temperature ranges from 55° to 60°, with from 60° to 70° during the day, and a rise of from 5° to 10° more in bright sunshine.

The plants are liable to the attacks of the thrips. The best preventives are plenty of manure waterings, and frequent syringings with clear soot water, at a temperature of about 80°. The thrips, however, even then may appear at times, and, therefore, it is best to grow them, when convenient, in a pit or house by themselves. Then, too, a bottom heat of about 80° may be given, in which they greatly delight.

A few lights will yield a long daily supply, and if cleared of old shoots, and no Beans allowed to get old, and fresh top dressings and manure waterings given, there is hardly a limit to the time they will bear. I have frequently had the same plants in bearing from January to June; but I would not advise such

Of kinds I prefer the Newington Wonder, chiefly when to be cooked whole. Of all others I prefer in-doors and out of doors, the China Dwarf, called also Robin's Egg. The Fulmer's Forcing, the Sion House Forcing, and the Cream-coloured Dwarf, are also very good. I have also grown heavy crops of the White Dutch Runner in pots, by nipping in the shoots. They thus became little balls of pods and flowers.

BASIL

when wanted green in winter should be sown in September, and kept in a hothouse all the winter. When a good quantity is wanted green and for drying in summer, sow in a hotbed in April, prick out the seedlings, and plant out in a warm border at the end of May. If the season is cold place a spare sash over the plants for a few weeks.

CAPSICUMS

in the shape of Chillies, and other kinds of various shapes, sizes, and colours, are much liked by some families, both when ripe and green. The great proportion do best treated as tender annuals. Sow in light, sandy soil, and leaf mould, about the middle of March, and place in a hotbed. When 2 inches high prick out half a dozen round the sides of a four-inch pot. In a fortnight, or three weeks, give each of these a similar-sized pot, and repot as necessary until each plant has a six-inch or eightinch pot; and for ripe fruit keep these pots under glass in any forcing-house until the autumn; and for green fruit, instead of giving such large pots, turn out the plants in front of a wall or hothouse in the middle of June. Green fly is apt to attack them. The smoke of a few of the Capsicum pods burned or a puff of tobacco will settle the insects.

CARROTS.

The best for forcing are the small, short French and the Early Horn, and a little of the Early Horn Scarlet. Young Carrots may be obtained through most of the winter by sowing these sorts in beds in August, and giving protection when needed; but even at the best they are much harder and woodier than nice young plants raised in a moderate hotbed. I have found little is gained by making the bed before Christmas. Even then a bed for a frame should be from 2 feet to 3 feet in height, if one part dung and two parts leaves; soil 6 inches deep, and light and sandy, rather flat, and within 6 inches of the glass. Make the surface smooth. Sow Carrot seeds rather thickly, either in rows 3 inches apart or broadcast, and a sprinkling of Radishes to draw early; beat slightly down, and cover with a sprinkling of dry sandy soil. The heat should be from 50° to 55° after the Carrots are up. Unless very thick, I thin but little; for as soon as the Carrots are a quarter of an inch in diameter they will do for soups, and the larger may be left to grow big enough for dishes. A great number may thus be drawn out of a two-light box. Of course, if you wish each Carrot left to be a fair size before any are used, then you must thin out so as to leave them 3 inches or so apart; but that I consider great waste. Air should be given early at all favourable times, but when quick returns are wanted, too much should not be given, nor left too long on. If the bed is allowed to get cold the Carrots will be little more crisp than if grown in the open If Radishes are thus sown on the bed they must not remain too long, or they will starve and shade the Carrots. Whilst young, any watering should be done with water not below 60° to 70°.

air.

CELERY.

This may be considered forced when small, fresh, white heads are wanted for soups in June, and good heads for the table in July and August. For the first the seed should be sown in a hotbed by the 1st of January, the plants be pricked off and by the middle of April be planted out on a mild hotbed 6 inches apart; be encouraged to grow quick by shutting in sun heat, and giving a little shade in bright sun, and earthing up with dry leaf mould as they grow. The same plan may be persued for the first crop at the end of July, only the plants should be moved to the trenches in the middle of May, and a little shade given on very bright days, and a little protection on cold nights. If properly attended to in watering there is no danger of this early Celery bolting, or throwing up the flower-stalk, if the earthing up does not take place more than a month before the heads are wanted. The Dwarf White is the best for this

to sow.

CHICORY.

Young leaves of this are sometimes obtained in winter by sowing thickly in pots in a hothouse, and cutting the plants over as we do Mustard and Cress. A nice blanched salad is obtained from roots either stored or taken up as wanted in winter, the produce of seeds sown in rows 15 inches apart in May. These packed with their heads uppermost in earth in pots or boxes will furnish a good produce in any dark place the latter, the leaves get thin and flaccid. When no dark place where the heat ranges from 40° to 50°. When much above is accessible, fill a pot or box, and put another of the same size over it, clapping some moss or clay putty between the pots, and stopping up the hole to exclude light. Dandelions make a good substitute. I have been glad to dig them up in severe winters. R. FISH. (To be continued.)

Plant 5 feet to 6 feet high, of strong and robust habit of growth. The stem is always simple, and bears from twelve to sixteen pods. The pods are generally in pairs, rarely single, and contain from six to seven very large Peas. The ripe seed is large, uneven, variously and irregularly shaped, and of a white and olive colour mixed.

Sown February 19th; bloomed June 13th; slatted June 28th; ready for use July 15th.

This is a great bearer, and produces large, plump, well-filled pods, which come into use four or five days after the Early Green Marrow, and ten days after Prizetaker; but it is a tender variety, and during the past season did not fill well, nor were the pods freely developed.

SYN. Denyer's Early Prolific Green Marrow NUTTING & SONS. Plant a strong robust grower 5 feet to 6 feet high, having a simple stem, which produces not more than six pods. The pods are either single or in pairs, and contain six large Peas in each. Ripe seed white and olive mixed, large, uneven, variously and irregularly shaped.

Sown February 19th; bloomed June 19th; slatted June 29th; fit for use July 20th.

This is very much in the way of Matchless Marrow, but comes into use five or six days later. It is also much less productive, and the pods, which are few, fill indifferently, so that it is not a desirable variety. Is it not the old Tall Green Marrow?

30. Sutton's Berkshire Hero...SUTTON & SONS. This is a much taller and stronger grower than the preceding, and five or six days later in all its stages. The plant is 7 feet high, and produces eight or ten large pods, which contain from six to seven very large Peas. The ripe seed is larger than that of the preceding and of Matchless Marrow, uneven, variously and irregularly shaped, and of white and olive colour mixed. Sown February 19th; bloomed June 25th; slatted July 3rd; and ready for use July 25th.

by several other varieties of superior merit. It is really not worth perpetuating.

32. Woodford Marrow ......NOBLE, COOPER, & BOLTON. Plant of a strong and robust habit of growth, having very dark bluish-green blotched foliage, and a stem 3 feet high, which is sometimes simple, but generally branched at about half its height from the ground. The pods number about eleven on a plant, and are produced singly or in pairs; when ready to gather they are rather flattened, but as they become ripe they assume a roundish shape. They contain on an average eight Peas in each, and these are of a very dark olive green colour, rather thick in the skin, and very closely packed, so much so as to be quite flattened where they come in contact. The ripe seed is very dark blue.

Sown February 19th; bloomed June 14th; slatted June 26th; and fit for use July 14th.

On account of its fine dark green pod this is an excellent Pea to grow for market; but it is one that requires to be very carefully selected when grown for seed, as it has a great tendency to degenerate back to the Blue Prussian, from which it has evidently been raised.

33. Batt's Wonder.........BATT, RUTLEY, & SILVERLOCK. The plant is of a strong and sturdy habit, with a thick stem 2 feet high, generally simple, but sometimes branching, and having large dark green foliage. The pods are produced in pairs, on an average of from twelve to eighteen on each plant; they are curved like those of the Scimitar, and contain from nine to eleven good-sized Peas. The ripe seed is small, dark bluishgreen, of the colour of that of the Woodford Marrow.

Sown February 19th; bloomed June 16th; slatted June 28th; and ready for use July 16th.

In the trial of 1859 this was found to withstand the dry weather better than any other variety; but in 1860 it suffered from the coldness of the season, and the pods filled irregularly. It is a very excellent and productive kind, as much so as the Scimitar, and the pods and Peas are of the same dark dull bluishgreen colour as those of the Woodford Marrow.

NOBLE, COOPER, & BOLTON.

34. Blue Prussian Plant not robust or strong in its habit, having a stem 3 feet high, which is sometimes branching, and with dark green blotched foliage. The pods are generally in pairs, from twelve to sixteen on each plant, and contain about seven closely packed Peas. The ripe seed is blue, small, and almost smooth.

Sown February 19th; bloomed June 16th; slatted June 28th; and ready for use July 16th.

This is a very old and popular variety, much used for extensive culture in fields and market gardens on account of its great fertility-a character which it maintains superior to any of the other blue Peas, most, and indeed all, of which during the past season have exhibited much less hardy constitutions.

V. IMPERIAL PEAS.

Ripe seed large and irregular in shape; skin thick, blue. Foliage large, dark green, and blotched.

35. Fairbeard's Surprise......NOBLE, COOPER, & BOLTON. The plant is a free but not robust grower, and always with a simple stem, which is about 5 feet high. The foliage is bright and not dark green, like the other varieties of this class. The pods are generally single, but sometimes in pairs, and are from eight to ten on a plant; they contain from seven to eight goodsized Peas. The ripe seed is somewhat oval, of a pale blue

colour.

Sown February 19th; bloomed June 7th; slatted June 20th; and fit for use July 9th.

This and Fairbeard's Champion of England were originally taken from the same pod, the former having a round and the latter a wrinkled seed. It is the earliest of all the round blue Peas, and very superior in every respect to the following, which comes into use two or three days later.

36. Harrison's Glory....NOBLE, COOPER, & BOLTON. The only distinction between this and Harrison's Pefection is the blue-coloured seed, that of the latter being white: they differ in no other respect, being of the same height, equally productive of pods, which always fill very badly, and both come into use at the same time.

(To be continued.)

POMOLOGICAL GLEANINGS. GRAFTING WAX.-Take 27 ozs. of common yellow rosin, melt it gradually so as not to drive off the turpentine. When reduced to the consistence of a syrup, add 10 ozs. of alcohol, shake them thoroughly together, and pour the mixture at once into a wellstopped bottle. When the graft is inserted and tied in its place with a strand of matting in the usual way, cover the surface of the whole with this varnish with a small painter's brush. Such varnish may be used in any weather, and is neither affected by heat, cold, nor wet.

FIRST PLANT YOUR ORCHARD.-He who puts off planting an orchard till a more convenient season than the first "planting season," is like him who waited on the bank of a river for all the waters to pass off, reasoning that a stream running so rapidly must soon run dry. So some people imagine that next year they will have more time to set an orchard, not counting that another year usually brings along with it an increasing amount of cares. Many a man has grown grey with just such resolves as "I will plant another year;" and to-day is farther than ever from doing it. Plant trees first, and cultivate them, and in a few years your orchard is soon producing abundant crops, while your dilatory neighbours are "just going to plant." You can build a house in a year, but not a full-grown orchard. The best interests of many a one are often delayed, hoping to have a more "convenient season." I know of many such cases. I wish I from abroad at a great expense, when we ought to supply ourUnder the present system, the west is supplied sevles and others with all needed fruit. One hundred apple trees of good fruit, under good cultivation will be worth one The Prairie Farmer.) thousand dollars when they are ten years old.—(D. C. S. in

knew of less.

STRAWBERRY FROGMORE LATE PINE.-Fruit very large, conical and cockscomb-shaped; broad and flattened at the stalk, where it is glossy like the old Pine. The seeds are numerous, not deeply imbedded. Skin glossy, bright red, becoming dark red, and almost black when very ripe. Flesh tender and very juicy, red throughout, richly flavoured, and with a good deal of the Pine aroma when well ripened. This is a late variety and a most abundant bearer. The fruit is produced in very large clusters, and comes on in succession, generally one-half of them being unripe. The scapes are very strong, stout, and branched twice and thrice compound. This very late and valuable variety was raised by Mr. Ingram, of Frogmore.

STRAWBERRY CULVERWELL'S SANSPAREIL.-Fruit medium

sized, long, conical, uneven, and furrowed in its outline. Seeds black when it ripens. Flesh very firm and solid, red throughout, not deeply imbedded. Skin a very dark red, becoming almost and very richly flavoured. excellent late variety. This is a capital bearer, and an

CULTIVATION OF TRUFFLES.

«Truffles" in your Number of the 16th inst., I beg to state that IN answer to your "OLD SUBSCRIBER'S" question respecting thirty-five years ago, when at school at Ramsbury, in Wiltshire, I several times accompanied a "Truffle hunter" in his search. My object was rather to observe the instinct of his dog than the nature and habits of the fungus; but some accidental knowledge was obtained. The Truffle was found at the roots of the trees in huge Fir plantations, the property of Sir Francis Burdett, covering the sides of the hills which flank the vale of the Kennet in that part. The fungus was generally found from 6 inches to 12 inches under the surface, sometimes deeper. The substratum of these hills is chalk, the staple loam, and shallow in general; but in the plantations of many years' growth an artificial staple had formed of a light covering mould from the deciduous leaves to a depth considerably greater than that of the soil on the unplanted sides of the hills. In this the fungus was found, generally, I think, on the outskirt of the plantations. A knot of them was usually found together, and the "Truffle hunter" left a root or two for further propagation. There can be no doubt that it would increase by transplantation to a suitable soil, but I never tried it.

Loudon in his "Encyclopædia of Gardening," third edition, 1825, makes the following extract from the "Edinburgh Encyclopædia," No. 4348-"Culture" of the Truffle. "No attempt," Neill observes, "it is believed has hitherto been made to cultivate Truffles; but of the practicability of the

IN continuing the remarks on Redleaf, we now come to a portion of the grounds which until very recently was but little regarded as a portion of a well-arranged garden-i.e., "the Fernery." Our present engraving, No. 5, only gives an imperfect idea of it, though correct enough at the point taken; but Ferns, taken collectively, present less to make a picture than do most plants, though individually, perhaps, they are second to none for their beauty and graceful appearance. Suffice it, however, to say that this fernery consists of a sloping bank, with large stones jutting out covered with moss, and amongst them is an excellent collection of hardy Ferns. The bank which com poses this fernery forms also a boundary between this and another portion of the grounds. A covered walk curves past this fernery-the covering tending to shade some of the plants

nearest the base of the bank. A botanist, or one well versed in British plants, would here find materials for an hour's close and ardent inspection, as all the kinds seem in excellent health.

Engraving No. 6 is a view of the grounds in continuation of the Rock Garden to the south; the dressed ground running to a considerable distance in that direction, and eventually opening into the park, which is also bounded by a piece of water or lake. This vista is open from the mansion, and all tall-growing trees have been kept away from this line; but flanking it on both sides are some fine specimens of Conifers, both in the dressed grounds, and also planted singly in the park with suitable fences around each. Amongst others in that way I noticed Picea cephalonica, a fine tree; P. Douglasii, nearly 60 feet high, but, being in a very exposed place, was browned a little by the