length-wise, in two; then again fold it, and cut the slits for the arm-holes by a thread. Pin it carefully together, still folded in four, whilst you hollow out the neck, leaving the proper space for the shoulders. Hem it at the top as you would a shift, by turning down the hem, and then turning it backwards, the more readily to hold it while you sew the hem firmly all round. The arm-holes should have narrow hems, and be very firmly sewed at the bottom, or they will tear. Whip and sew on the frills, hem the bottom, sew on the tapes, and the pinafore is completed. Some people put gussets in at the shoulder: and it is better to do so for elder children. For further sizes, see School Girl's Pinafore.

PINAFORE WITH LAPPETS.

PLATE 3. FIG. 19.

This shape is very much used by the poor, as it protects the sleeves. The pinafore is cut out exactly as in Fig. 18; but instead of putting on frills, little capes or lappets are substituted. These capes are cut width-way of the size, according to the Scale.

The cape is rounded off towards the ends, and after being neatly hemmed, is whipped and sewn all round the arm-hole, making the ends come under the arm. In front, the pinafore is confined with a band, which is stitched firmly on in two places before, and which, passing round the waist, buttons behind.

THE WASTE-NOT PINAFORE.

PLATE 3. FIG. 20, 21.

This is a particularly simple shape, being cut without any waste whatever.
Divide the pinafore in four, and cut it according to the Plate.

Cut from A to D, by which means a shoulder-flap is made, and, when on, the shoulder-piece is raised sufficiently to prevent the necessity of hollowing out the neck. A double plait should be sewn under the arm-hole (see Fig. 21, A). This cape, being plain, is improved by an edging of work, or a little braid, to add lightness to its appearance.

A BABY'S DRESS PINAFORE OR TIDY.

PLATE 3. FIG. 22.

Intended to be worn when the child's frock is tumbled or untidy. It is made of cambric or jaconet muslin. There are two breadths in it of 14 nails wide-one breadth in front, and the other cut in two,

and sewn on each side. The arm-holes are made in the seams, and frilled round, or lappets sewn on. At the top in front, from shoulder to shoulder, the pinafore is drawn up by a tape in the hem, and secured to the proper size. The front is biassed into a band of insertion-work, to go partly round the waist. The back is drawn by a string at the top, and again below by a string-case. The front may be either simply biassed once into the band, or it may have three or four rows of biassing. Round the top is an edging of work, or a frill.

Petticoats are generally made of jaconet muslin, twilled muslin, or fine calico, and should be about 14 nails wide. The skirt is 2 breadths in width, and cut to the length required, after allowing for the deep hem or tucks. They are usually cut the following sizes for the rich and poor.

In cutting out the body, double the strip in two, and again in half, so as to be folded exactly in four, and cut out the arm-holes according to the depth and width wanted, as seen by the Scale. The sleeves are cut out according to the pattern in Plate 4, Fig. 12 or 13; the shoulder-straps are cut out, and the body is ready for making up. Hem it along the top, sufficiently wide to admit a tape, stitch on the shoulder-straps, sew and hem the sleeves, and gather them into the shoulder-straps. The body should have rather wide hems at the two ends, and a sufficiently wide hem at the bottom to admit a narrow tape. Full the body in front, and sew it firmly to the skirt (which should be previously gathered), making it lie pretty evenly all round. The top strings should draw from the shoulder-straps only, and another string may be run in the front to draw it, and tie on one side.

INFANTS' FROCKS,

PLATE 4,

Are generally made of jaconet muslin, twilled muslin, and print, and, when the children are older, sometimes of nankeen, jean, Holland, merino, cloth, stuff, and silk. Those for the poor are usually of

.

print, and are made according to the pattern for petticoats (see Plate 4, Fig 1); those for the rich are made in various ways, among which are the following:-

The full body.

The plain body, cut in one piece.

The plain body, with backs and fronts cut crosswise.

SCALE FOR THE SKIRTS.

Width of skirt 2 or 3 breadths, so as to form from 14 to 16 nails wide, when the skirt is double, as if

There are so many ways of making up skirts, that only a few will be described. Broad hems and tucks of various depths are the simplest and prettiest; others are more ornamented by letting in work at the top of the broad hem, or working with braid, bobbin, or cord. Robings are often brought down in front, in continuation of the little capes sewn on the bodies. These robings should be 1 nail broad, sloped off to nail, and carried down to the bottom of the skirt, or to the top of a deep hem. They should be sown on so that the edge of the work is turned outwards. The sleeves are made according to fancy, and are of the sizes marked in the Scale, pages 35, 36.— (See also, Plate 4.)

In cutting it out, double the strip for the body once, and again in half, and then cut out the armholes the proper depth and width. The full body is made up in either of the following ways:-the first and most simple, is by merely hemming it at the top and bottom, putting wide hems at the ends, and then setting it upon the skirt, making more fulness at the back and in front than at the sides. The sleeves are put into the body with shoulder-straps.

F

The tapes are put in to draw from the shoulder-straps behind, at the top, and another string to draw in front, also a tape all through the waist hem.

These simply-made frocks are very useful for fast-growing children, as they will let out to the size wanted.

ANOTHER MODE OF MAKING UP.

PLATE 4. FIG. 2.

The other mode of making them up is the neatest in appearance. The body is gathered at the top and set into a long narrow band, which forms the hem and the shoulder-straps. The bottom of the body is also firmly gathered, and sewn on with very strong thread to the skirt, which is also gathered so as to let the fulness lie principally in front. Sometimes the body is biassed in front in two or three rows, as in Fig. 2.

Straight bodies are generally used for ladies' children, and are ornamented in different ways. Some are worked in bobbin-work, coronation braid (see Fig. 4), common braid, or else work is let in; and others with satin-stitch worked on the muslin, or very fine small tucks, either horizontal or perpendicular (see Fig. 3). One or two bodies will be more minutely described here, as a guide by which to make others.

PLATE 4. FIG. 5.

Divide the body in half, so as to ascertain the middle, and run a tacking thread down it; run two others, one on each side, at the distance of little more than a nail from the middle, at the top, and slanting down to the middle point at the bottom of the body; run two others, at the distance of of a nail on each side of the last, slanting them towards the centre, at the distance of a nail on each side from the centre. These tacking threads serve as a guide, by which means the pattern can be done more regularly. Sew two bobbin-lines, one on each side of each tacking-thread, leaving a small space between them sufficiently wide for little oylet holes, or some other ornamental pattern, to be worked. Afterwards, sew on the bobbin neatly in patterns, according to fancy. Put in the sleeves next, having worked the bands and the triangular shoulder-bits to correspond with the front. Next put on the capes. The whole should be trimmed with a little edging or narrow work.

PLATE 4. FIG. 8.

The front is worked in fancy button-hole stitch, as in Plate 5, Fig. 19. and the triangular shoulder-bits are worked in rows of the same stitch. the edge with the horse-shoe stitch, as also the ends of the body (Plate 5, entirely of fancy bobbin edging (Plate 5, Fig. 18.)

PLATE 4. FIG. 6.

The bands round the sleeves
The capes are worked near
Fig. 20), and the edging is

Procure some pretty open work, in the style of that in the Plate, and sew several strips together, always making the pieces narrower at the bottom than at the top, in order to make them point towards the centre, as in the Plate. A body made thus generally wears and washes very well. The capes should be of some pretty work, and the whole trimmed with edging to match the rest. The triangular shoulder-bits have a piece of insertion-work inlaid in them.

BODY WITH HONEY-COMB STITCH.

This body has the side-bits cut as above, and the front is a triangular piece of honey-comb stitch worked and let in. In making the triangular bit, lay the plaits very narrow and even, before working it in honey-comb. For a description of the stitch, see Plate 1, Fig. 15, 16.

SLEEVES.

PLATE 4.

There are various sorts of long and short sleeves, some of which it is impossible to describe clearly, and it will not, therefore be attempted. The most simple are the following:

Cut your material into square pieces of the size wanted (in proportion to the Scale), and double the square in half, so as to make it triangular, or three-cornered in shape. Fold it in the same manner again and again, as often as it will admit of being done; one side is longer than the other, mark it with your scissors the same distance on the long side from the point, as it is on the short, and cut it directly across; by which means the square will become a circle, as will be seen when opened. This circle should be hollowed out at one side (Plate 4, Fig 18), in order to make it set better under the arm. Before opening the circle, a small hole should be cut at the pointed end, to form the opening