with a large promontory, several miles long, that stretches out into Yell Sound*. Near the Isthmus of Lunna, once stood a religious building, but of what description is very doubtful: a broken font was discovered among the ruins, as well as architectural carvings, executed in a soft magnesian stone, of a steatitic kind, named Kleber. Much fish is cured at Lunna, consisting of ling, cod, and the Gadus Brosme, or torsk, commonly named Tusk. The latter, which somewhat resembles ling, though not so long, is very abundantly caught in the deep-water fishery off the coast.

ISLAND OF WHALSEY AND THE OUTSKERRIES.

Whalsey, to which I sailed, is a large island, consisting of irregular ridges of gneiss, that stretch far to the north-east. The approach to it from the south-west extremity is very fine. Near a small bay is a handsome house, belonging to ROBERT BRUCE, Esq., shewing the style of the middle of the last century, with gardens walled round. A system of farming has been introduced in this island, highly creditable to the proprietor. The fields of corn around the house looked beautiful; and, if the country could only have been clothed with trees, we might transport ourselves, in imagination, to some district of the Lothians. The island to the north-east is very uninteresting. There is nothing to diversify bleak and uneven ridges of gneiss, except a good parish church and a few scattered

arose, however, from an unexpected source,-from the tenants themselves, who being by no means prepared for so sudden a change of condition, much abused the liberality they had experienced. The event evidently shews, that a domestic reform, like a political one, should be a gradual process.

• It has been remarked, (p. 173.) that, about a mile or two to the north of the house, are several remarkable detached rocks, named the Stones of Stefis, of which the largest is about 23 feet in height, and 96 feet in circumference.

cottages. I omitted to see a loch which Mr Low noticed, where was a small holm connected to the shore by means of stepping-stones, originally defended by a wall round its margin, and by a breast-work toward the land. A space of ground was thus enclosed, sufficient to contain many people, with their cattle and effects. The Burgh (as it is called) bears the name of Hogsetter *.

From Whalsey I set sail for the Outskerries, a very remote and detached groupe of small islands and rocks, fifteen miles distant from the mainland of Shetland. Our light yawl was manned by six excellent seamen; a square sail was hoisted; and a breeze springing up favourable for the passage, the buoyant skiff rapidly cut its way through surging waves; whilst the seamen, with admirable adroitness, raised or lowered the sail, according to the force of the wind with which we were impelled along. Passing several solitary holms on which rude huts appeared for the temporary summer accommodation of the seamen who were engaged in the ling-fishery, I arrived at length near the Outskerries. They seemed fenced round about by cliffs frightfully steep and rugged. One of these was pointed out to me, on which was cast away, in the year 1664, the rich vessel, named the Carmelan of Amsterdam, that was bound to the East Indies, laden with three millions of guilders, and many chests of coined gold. The wreck happened on a dark night, when four men, placed among the shrouds, were endeavouring to discover the land. They were not able to descry the rock before the vessel was close upon it, and before they could warn the rest of the crew, the ship struck. The mast broke close to the deck, falling, at the same time, on one of the cliffs, by which means the four men were saved: but the ship itself sank in deep water, and all the crew on board immediately perished. A considerable quantity of spiritous liquors was driven ashore; and, for twenty days afterwards, the inhabitants of the Skerries were in a state of continued intoxication. When the Earl of Morton heard of the wreck, he repaired to the spot, and was actively employed in rescuing from the water several of the chests of gold. These ought to have come to the King's treasury: and, when Charles II. heard of the Earl's private appropriation, he is said to have been decided in the

• There is a rock of gneiss on the west of the island, which, in one place, considerably affects the compass.

views which he had before entertained, of recalling the Crown-estates of Orkney and Shetland that had fallen into the hands of the Morton family, on the fictitious plea of a mortgage by Charles I. *

After passing the rock on which the Carmelan had split, a narrow open ing appeared through ragged rocks, out of which ran a strong current of tide, that caused the billows on the outside, impatient of resistance, to boil and foam with uncommon impetuosity. Through these our reeling yawl was guided with infinite skill, when we entered a small harbour, well sheltered by high ground, and presenting on its surface the unruffled tranquil appearance of a mountain lake.

"It was a still

And calmy bay, on th' one side sheltered
With the brode shadow of an hoarie hill;

On the other side an high rock toured still,

That, t'wixt them both, a pleasaunt port they made,
And did like an half theatre fulfill."

SPENCER.

As the Outskerries lie so much to the east of Shetland, they are well adapted for carrying on a deep water fishery for ling. On this account, there are a few slight permanent buildings, erected for the accommodation of agents who superintend the preparation of curing; and, along with these, are several rude huts or lodges, for the temporary abode of the fishermen. An old custom, now legalized, allowing any one to erect temporary fishing-huts and booths on grounds that had not been previously enclosed for cultivation, has caused frequent disputes between landholders, and others, who were engaged in the ling fishery, some of which frays had even led to bloodshed. Early in the last century, for instance, a contention in the Outskerries arose between two considerable families in Shetland, regarding this right, which proved so serious, that it is still traditionally handed down under the name of the Skerry Fight. The fishermen belonging to the Gifford Family of Busta, came armed, and obtained possession of a booth that they had erected the preceding year. The SINCLAIRS, also, headed by the valiant lady of the family, took the field. A siege commenced; there was a discharge of fire-arms from each party, with little or no effect, until MAGNUS

* The narrative of the loss of the Carmelan, may be found in BRAND'S Voyage to Orkney and Zetland.

FLAWS, the champion of the SINCLAIRS, having tried in vain to break open the door of the booth which was occupied by the GIFFORDS, mounted the roof, and swore most stoutly that he would be in the building though the devil should dispute him admission. On effecting an entrance, he was immediately shot dead by the occupants within; upon which the SINCLAIRS took flight, and, like dastards, abandoned their lady, who was, by the opposite party, made prisoner. It appears that no legal notice was taken of the fray. The head of the Gifford Family was at that time the steward of the island, being invested with the full power of punishing such breaches of law; but he did not think proper to proceed against his imme diate dependants *.

The time when I visited the Skerries, was not the season for pursuing the fishing of ling; I thus missed a busy and interesting scene. There are no objects at the Outskerries worth particular notice; a rich bed of limestone passes through the group, near to which the land is remarkably fertile. There are but very few families, perhaps not more than six or seven, who constantly reside at this remote place.

Having at length accomplished my journey through the south-east part of the country, I prepared to sail for the north-east isles of Fetlar and Unst; but I did not quit the district without impressions of the most grateful kind for the hospitable attention I had received in my journey from Dunrossness to the Outskerriest. If there is any district in the globe where hospitality, in flying from crowded cities and courts, has sought some peaceful refuge, it is among the pathless wilds of the British Thule.

I have at length concluded an Iter, the various incidental objects of which were associated with all the leading events connected with the history of Shetland. It will now, perhaps, be sufficiently evident, how little the annals of this country are to be understood, without an accurate. knowledge of the original state of the udal laws, that prevailed in this Scandinavian province. The task, therefore, 'remains of giving more particu

* This tradition of the country has been related to me by Mr HENDERSON of Bardister. ·

+ I have to acknowledge, in the most grateful manner, the kind attention I received at Lerwick and its vicinity; at Laxfirth; at the Manse of Nesting; at Lunna and Whalsey.

lar illustrations of them, as well as of the feudal tenures by which they were succeeded, in corroboration of the historical sketches that have been rendered.

ILLUSTRATION OF THE LAWS OF UDAL SUCCESSION.

Definition of the word Odel or Udal, and the distinction between the terms Odel and Feudal.

The original meaning of the word udal, in its application to land, was absolute property; that of feudal, implied stipendiary property.

"The real signification of the word Odel," says Bishop PONTOPPIDAN," implies real property, according to JOH. GRAMM, in his dissertation upon the word Herremand; "ut Adelbonde redeamus, is non alius quam locuples et copiosus colonus aut fundi possessor. Schefferus autumat ab Adel et Odel oriundum esse, quod proprietatem omnimodam, scilicet ab Odh proprietas, et All totum omne denotavit, atque Adelbonde esse eum qui haberet Odel, hoc est proprium et a majoribus, per hæreditatem acquisitum possidebat fundum. Vide acta Societatis, Reg. Hafn. t. 2. p. 272.'" Sir WILLIAM BLACKSTONE, in his remarks on this passage of Pontoppidan, adds, "the transposition of these northern syllables, allodh, will give us the true etymology of the allodium, or absolute property of the feudists; as, by a similar combination of the latter syllable with the word fee, (which signifies, as we have seen, a conditional reward or stipend), feeodh or feodum, will denote stipendiary property. See BLACKSTONE'S Commentaries, 14th Ed., Vol. II. p. 44.

Other opinions on the Etymology of the word Udal, will be found in Dr JAMIESON's Scottish Dictionary, where they have been collected with great industry, but none of these I have thought proper to adopt. Some of them are nearly as amusing as that which was given in the year 1642, by Bishop GRAHAME of Orkney, in reply to a query by the Magistrates of Edinburgh, to know what the lands haldin of Udil were: "Ratio nominis, alse far as ever I could trye," answers the worthy prelate," is, that the kings of Norroway sent one UDILLAUS, wha divyded the lands of Orknay and Shetland, in pennie lands and used lands, as Ireland is now divyded in aikers; from yat divisione, to this day, they have possesst yair lands as heritors without wreate.” PETERKIN'S Rentals of Orkney, No. 3. p. 20.

The author of the Grievances of Orkney has observed that the word Udal was by the Germans and Scandinavians called Aoidal, Audal, Othel or Odal; and by the Orkneymen and Shetlanders, Authal, Uthel or Udal."