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of the skirt, the seam on each side of this breadth being open for the space of four nails. Tapes are attached to the band of the back breadth, and tie in front; buttons are set on, to within a nail of the end of the band below the side pieces, to which the band of the front buttons on each side, and by this means overlaps the opening: button-holes are also made at the two corners of the front (see X Z), which correspond with the buttons on the shoulder-strap, Z. The left hand side of Fig. 4 represents the petticoat with the body drawn forward, as if for the purpose of tying it, while the opposite side shows it as if thrown back, ready to put the arm into the sleeve. The front is unfastened and has fallen down.

GOWNS.

PLATE 14.

Gowns being a part of dress much influenced by the fashion or custom of the day, will not be fully entered on in this work, as it would be impossible to give the variety of form and size which is seen in them, and equally impossible, were a selection attempted, to please all tastes, or suit all figures: a few simple patterns for those kinds which are independent of fashion, and especially for those worn by servants, and persons engaged in laborious employments, with a very few other plain ones, will alone come within the limits of the work.

Those commonly worn by servants, and the working classes, are of print, linen, stuff, and for best, light ginghams, merino, or bombazine; ladies wear muslin, gingham, silk, merino, and for dress, either lighter or richer materials, as satins, velvets, gauzes, &c.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

The bodies of working gowns should be lined with strong linen, which is preferable to calico, as it does not shrink in the washing; they should be of dark and good washing colours, deep blue and lilac are the best for wear.

It is a good plan to line silk and merino, or stuff gown bodies, with strong linen or brown Holland, as it keeps them in shape, by preventing them from stretching.

In buying striped dresses, be careful that the stripes run selvage-wise, otherwise they are very unbecoming. In making up the bodies, the stripes should lie in the same direction, and not cross-wise from shoulder to shoulder.

Checks or plaids are rarely becoming when they are large: for children they should be particularly small and narrow, the colours should not be too bright or gay, but sufficiently contrasted and decided, to give a clear clean effect; plaids of which the colours are pale and indistinct never look very well; and after wearing a short time appear faded and shabby.

Checks are becoming to tall people, and stripes to short ones, as the former rather diminish, while the latter give an appearance of greater length to the figure than is natural to it, in the same way that a striped paper makes a room look higher, than one which is checked, or of which the pattern goes round instead of from top to bottom.

Broad hems and deep flounces also tend to lessen the height, it may therefore be taken as a general rule that tall persons should endeavour to add to their width, by making all the accompaniments to their dress as full and wide, as is consistent with the reigning taste, while those who are short, should let all theirs be as moderate as possible.

The same observations will also apply to stout and thin persons; for the former, all trimmings of the bodies in front, such as rouleaux, folds, and straps, should, generally speaking, be carried from the

shoulder to the waist, in preference to being laid on cross-wise; while with those who are of a slighter make, it is merely a matter of fancy, only remarking that every advantage of fulness should be given them. If the trimming of a dress does not exactly match it, care should be taken to select it darker than the dress itself. Waistbands, when shaded, or of two colours, should be always worn with the darkest shade or colour at the bottom of the waist.

The complexion should determine the choice of colours. Persons of a sallow or muddy complexion should carefully avoid bright and glaring, or on the other hand, undecided colours; such as yellow, cherry colour, light green, buff, or drab; clear tints are more suitable to them, as white, light blue, violet, or black.

Those with pale but clear complexions, may wear all the shades of rose colour, primrose, apricot, buff, light green, lilac, brown, and violet.

Fair persons with a colour, will find few shades decidedly unbecoming; perhaps it will be as well for them not to wear buff.

Dark olive or brown complexions should avoid either very dark or very light colours, but they should be careful to select clear tints: pink, geranium, and violet are the most decidedly suitable to them. On all occasions let the old saying be kept in mind,

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These remarks may seem superfluous to some, but as attention to the minutia of dress adds much to a lady-like and refined appearance, and as an endeavour to please by an agreeable exterior, does not necessarily involve a disposition to vanity and frivolity, it is hoped that they will not be hastily condemned.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CUTTING OUT DRESSES.

It would be useless to form scales for the different kinds of dresses, as shapes vary so much, therefore none will be introduced, excepting for children and young persons; as, however, this article of dress forms one of the most important parts of a person's wardrobe, all general observations for cutting out, that can be reduced to rule, will be given as clearly as the subject will admit of, at the same time, it is strongly recommended to all those who can afford it, to have their best dresses invariably made by a mantua-maker, as those which are cut out at home seldom fit so comfortably, or look so well, as when made by persons in constant practice. To those who have large families or limited means, it certainly is a great saving of expense having them made at home, and to such, the following rules may be useful. It would be very advisable, as a practice, for persons little acquainted with cutting out, to purchase cheap print for poor children's dress and by fitting them on, much experience and nicety might be acquired at little waste or expense.

In making a dress for any body, the following measurements should be taken with a piece of common tape.

From the waist to the bottom of the skirt.

From the nape of the neck to the waist behind.

Round the waist.

Round the wrist.

From the shoulder to the wrist, with the arm bent.

In sending to London or elsewhere for a dress or riding habit, of which the exact measure is required, observe the following directions for transmitting measure in inches:

1. Height of the person, observing if they stand upright.

2.

The length of the arm from the centre of the back to the elbow, and thence to the knuckles. 3. The circumference of the body, over the full part of the chest.

4. The circumference of the smallest part of the waist.

5. Length of the nape of the neck to the waist, and thence to the ground.

6.

From the front of the armpit to the centre of the bosom, thence to the chest.

7. From the nape of the neck, over the shoulder, to the centre of the bosom, and thence to the waist immediately under it.

PLATE 14.

The bodies of dresses contain various parts, called the fronts, the backs, the side-pieces, the shoulderstraps, the shoulder-pieces, collars, &c., &c. These parts are variously employed and differently cut out, according to the style of the dress, sometimes being on the cross, and sometimes on the straight-way. Observe that the lines in the engravings denote, by their direction, which way the selvage side of the material runs. For the purpose of making this quite clear, let it be supposed that these lines represent stripes which run along or down the selvage.

Linings should always be cut to lie the same direction as the material of the gown.

In cutting out a dress, it is usual to fit the lining upon the figure, and cut out the gown from it though, with an inexperienced person, it would be advisable to fit on the gown also, if the dress is to be full, or in folds.

Gowns are high, low, three-quartered, plain, or full, open before or behind, all of which sorts will be treated of in their proper order.

SIDE-PIECES.

PLATE 14. FIG. 12, 13.

Most dresses have side-pieces or bits under the arm, to join the backs to the fronts. These side-pieces are cut variously. For stout persons, the selvage-way or stripe should run from the extreme point at the bottom of the back of the side-piece, A, towards the middle of the top, B, of Fig. 12. For slight figures, the selvage-way or stripe should run along, or nearly along the front of the side-piece, thus A B, in Fig. 13.

The size of a side-piece depends much upon the figure and fashion. It should never, however, be brought much forwarder than under the middle of the arm-hole. It varies very much at the back, sometimes being brought but just behind the arm-hole, at others to within a nail of the middle of the back. The side-piece is sometimes cut straight at the back, and at others in a kind of half-arch; the latter is required for stout persons.

BACK SHOULDER-PIECES.

PLATE 14. FIG. 5.

These are not necessary to the set of the gown, and are seldom introduced, unless it is the reigning fashion, or for the better cutting up of the material. When these are used, of course shoulder-straps are unnecessary, as they connect the backs with the fronts. A represents a back shoulder-piece.

SHOULDER-STRAPS.
PLATE 14. FIG. 6, 7.

These are mere straps to connect the fronts and backs, and lie over the shoulder. The straps are

always double and are generally sloped at each end, so as to be wider next the sleeve than at the shoulder or neck (see Fig. 7).

SKIRTS.

These vary very much as to the number of breadths, according to fashion and material. Thin clinging materials, as muslin, require more breadths than thick or standing out articles of dress, as silk-gauze, velvet, &c.; six, seven, or eight breadths are worn now for full dresses, but formerly four breadths were deemed sufficient. They are usually lined with thin glazed muslin, unless the dress is very heavy as stuff, merino, &c., it is economical to line the skirt, as it keeps the dress cleaner and makes it look better if turned.

A PLAIN HIGH BODY.

PLATE 14. FIG. 8.

For stout persons, indeed for the generality of figures, it is preferable to have the fronts of the body in two pieces, with a piping up the middle. In cutting out a high plain body, lay the material upon the person as follows:

Let the selvage-way or stripe of the cloth lie in the direction from the extreme point of the shoulder, A (see Fig. 8), to the middle of the waist, B. In doing this, pin it at a sufficient distance from the selvage of the material to allow of plenty to cover the front. Thus, pin the material on at A B, which is some distance from the selvage, C D. Stroke the material up to the neck in front and hollow out at the neck, putting pins at C E. The front is thus thrown quite on the cross, up the middle. Do the same on the opposite side. Hollow out towards the arm, and cut off where it meets the side-piece. The back pieces, Fig. 9, always have the selvage up the middle, and are properly fitted to the figure till they meet the side-pieces.

In making up, a piping is laid along each seam, and the edges of the lining, and the dress should be well overcast. The sleeves have piping also round them. The backs should have broad hems, and, together with the waist, be lined with a strong tape or calico.

A FULL FRENCH HIGH BODY.

PLATE 14. FIG. 10, 11, 14.

This body is also in two parts in front. The material is pinned for the selvage-way, or stripe to run from the side of the neck or collar bone, A, to the middle of the waist, B (in Fig. 10), so as to throw the part up the front but slightly on the cross. Put strong pins in at A B C, to keep the material firm, and then commence laying the material in plaits (see Fig. 11), slanting from the shoulder towards the waist, folding them much deeper at the waist than at the top; five, six, or seven of these plaits are sufficient. In laying them along they should be arranged so that when the last plait is formed, and the plain part of the body pinned under the arm, the selvage-way or stripe should lie almost parallel with, or along with, the waist (see L M, in Fig. 11).

The backs, Fig. 14, are always selvage-way up the middle; the plaits, about three in number, should lie from the shoulder to the middle of the waist in a fan-like direction. They will almost form themselves properly at the top on the shoulder, if first properly pinned on the waist, and the material held up, and slightly pulled or shaken above the shoulder, with one hand, while the other arranges them. They will naturally fall in deeper folds below than above.

A WRAP HIGH DRESS.

PLATE 14. FIG. 15.

This has two fronts, to be cut out as follows:

Lay the merino, or other material, selvage or stripe-wise from the top of the shoulder, A, to a little beyond the middle of the waist, so as to throw the body a little on the cross up the middle.

The plaits must be formed, while on the person, one after another, slanting from the shoulder, across the middle, to the opposite side of the waist. These plaits should be so folded, as to make the plain part, under the arm, fall selvage-wise along the band.

The back is made to correspond, the selvage is straight up the back, and the material being held tightly above the shoulder at the top, with one hand, the three or four plaits are the more easily arranged by the other, and should be folded over more deeply at the bottom than upon the shoulder. These plaits should exactly meet the others on the shoulder.

The backs and fronts join under the arm without side-pieces. In making up, the plaits should be secured on the shoulder, with a pipe or strap, and again secured about half a nail on each side of the shoulder. The fronts cross, or wrap over, and are well secured to the waistband.

A HIGH FULL GOWN, TO OPEN IN FRONT.

PLATE 14. FIG. 16, 17.

These are particularly suitable for house-maids, dairy or kitchen-maids, chair and washerwomen ; they should be made of the strongest print, at 8d. or 1s. per yard. It is bad economy to buy a cheap poor material for a working dress, under the idea that it will do very well for common purposes, when it is of importance that they should stand a good deal of wear and tear.

For a young person, the skirt is in three breadths of extra-width print, of about eighteen nails; the seams must be sewed up, making one come in the front, which must overlap half a nail down the whole length of the skirt, leaving the hem or seam open for about four nails below the waist. The body is six pieces, having one back, two fronts, two side-pieces, and one collar.

The two fronts are selvage-wise up the middle, and are cut as follows:-Pin the material selvage-wise at A, and at the bottom, lay it in plaits or fullings along the shoulder, to lie towards the waist, and smooth the plain part to fit the shape, till it meets the side-piece, cut it off, and hollow it under the arm. The back piece, Fig. 17, is in one piece with the selvage, to lie up the middle; therefore, pin it firmly at the middle of the top, A, and at the waist just below, B. Lay the material on each side in fullings or plaits, pinning them down here and there, and, after arranging them at the top, along the back and shoulders, smooth down the plain part, hollow out at the arm-holes, and cut along the shoulders. Cut the side-piece next, and then make a neat simple collar; one like Fig. 7, in Plate 13, would be very suitable. In making up, after cutting out your tight lining, lay each part of the gown upon each piece of the lining, and begin to stitch strongly together all the pieces, laying a piping up every seam, and over-casting the rough edges inside, to make them wear well and look neat. The sleeves are short (see Fig. 24, in Plate 12). The collar and arm-holes are also piped.

Make a broad hem up each side of the front, and put the body into the band; let the fulness be pretty even along the piping on the shoulder, but bring it rather towards the middle of the waist-band, in

front.

The fulness behind is regular along the shoulders and collar, but drawn towards the centre of the back, at the band. Sew the body on the skirt, put strings or bands, of the same material, of about one

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