CAP FOR A YOUNG LADY.

PLATE 15. FIG. 1, 2.

This is a pretty simple cap for a young lady or invalid, as it is not liable to be crushed by lying on a sofa.

Take a piece of paper, four nails and a quarter long, and five nails and a quarter wide, curve out nearly half a nail from the top, A, to within half a nail of the bottom, E, to form the part that is to set round the face; from the corner, J to F, is two nails and a half, cut in a straight line from E to F, and from F to H, in a slanting direction, the point H being one nail and a half from the bottom, and one nail and a quarter from the side; cut into the cap from H to C, also sloping a quarter of a nail, and then round it gradually up to B. When you cut out your cap, be careful that the net is doubled at. D.

In making up this cap, join it neatly from F to H, and then gather the crown, B C, into the small piece, H C. Hem it from E to F, and run a coloured ribbon into the string-case: hem or bind it in the front, and make one broad runner, to contain a ribbon, which sets it off. A small bow may be put at H: and any simple trimming of loops or bows between the borders.

A MORNING CAP.
PLATE 15. FIG. 3. 4, 5.

This is easily made, takes very little material, and has a pretty effect. The head-piece is cut all in

one.

For the pattern, take a piece of paper four nails long by three nails and a half broad. The front, A B, is four nails; from B to C two nails and a half. Curve from C to E, E being two nails from the top. Cut in a straight line from E to F, at a quarter of a nail from the bottom, and curve from F to A. The net must be doubled at D. The small circular crown is one nail and a half across.

This cap is made up as follows:-Wire the head-piece all round, and put a wire also from B to C, up the front, and from E to F, up the back, to keep it in shape. The round crown is put in quite plainly, the part into which it fits having been previously wired. The border may then be sewed on, and a double quilling of blonde or tulle put round the crown at the top. Lay a piece of ribbon in the middle of the quilling, and cover the wires up the back and front; bind it with the same behind, and put a ribbon, which forms the strings, across the border in front. A bow at the side, and two behind, at the top and bottom, will be found sufficient trimming.

A SIMPLE UNDRESS, OR BONNET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 6, 7, 8.

This cap is in two parts, a head-piece and a horse-shoe. To cut the pattern of the former, Fig. 6, let your paper be four nails broad by four nails and three-quarters long. A to B is the front of the cap. Curve it slightly about a quarter of a nail to B, which is a quarter of a nail from the bottom; then curve to E one nail from the side, and from C to E is a gradual slope, D being the doubled part. For the horse-shoe, let your paper be three nails broad by four nails long. F and K are each half a nail from the side. Slope from F to I, which is two nails and a half from the bottom, and then round to H, which is in the centre.

In making up, hem or bind the front, and put one or more runners, according to fancy. The size here given is only measured for one. Whip from E to C, and sew it to the horse-shoe, keeping the fulness at the top of the cap. Hem or bind it behind, and put on the border.

DRESS MORNING CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 9, 10, 11.

This cap is in two parts. For half the front-piece, Fig. 9, cut a piece of paper five nails and a quarter long and two nails wide. D is the doubled part of the net, cut in a straight line from A to B, which is half a nail from the side. Slope from B to C, which is one nail and a half from the bottom.

For half the crown, cut a piece four nails and three-quarters long and two nails and a half wide. Slope off from the top, A to B, cutting off half a nail. D is the doubled, or middle part of the

crown.

In making up, the head-piece is wired all round, and the crown then set in quite plainly for two nails above the ear, and the rest plaited in small neat plaits quite in the front: then take two pieces of wire, rather shorter than the front of the cap, and quill upon them tulle, blonde, or lace, similar to that of which the border is made. This quilling should be narrower than the border, and only moderately full. A ribbon must be laid upon the edge to conceal the stitches and the wire. When these bands are put upon the cap, one of them is laid on close to the crown, and the other between it and the front. The cap is plaited a little behind to make it fit, and a small bow is put on in the middle of the back. A ribbon, forming also the strings, is passed over the front, and a small bow put on one side, close to the border.

In making up this cap more simply, or as a bonnet cap, the two trimmed bands may be omitted, and a satin or gauze ribbon merely put across the crown and in front, with two or three loops between the borders.

PLAIN CAP FOR AN ELDERLY LADY.

PLATE 15. FIG. 12, 13.

Cut your pattern four nails wide by seven nails long. Slope off at the top from A to B, D being the back or doubled part of the cap, and hollow it a little at the bottom.

In making up, run two string cases, to admit ribbon in the front, hem it behind and pass a ribbon through, sew on the border, put a small bow at one side, close to the front, and with strings it is complete.

CAP FOR A YOUNG MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.

PLATE 15. FIG. 14, 15.

This cap is in two pieces. For the pattern of the head-piece, let your paper be five nails and a half long, and three nails and a quarter wide. AB is the front of the cap. From B to D is one nail and three-quarters, and is the top or doubled part of it. Curve from D to E, the point, E, being three nails and a half from the top. F is three-quarters of a nail from the side and half a nail from the bottom. Cut in a straight line from E to F, and curve from F to A.

For the crown, cut a circle of six nails across.

In making up, join the head-piece behind, and hem it all round with a narrow hem, so as only to admit a bobbin, which draws it to the proper size. The front is quite plain for one nail and a half above the ear, on each side, and then drawn equally in the middle. The crown is gathered regularly all round, and set in. The single border, about one nail broad, is of the same material as the cap. A narrow hem is made at the edge, and it is set on rather scantily. White ribbon strings are sewed on

at the ears.

CAP FOR AN ELDERLY MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.

PLATE 15. FIG. 16, 17, 18.

This cap is also in two pieces. The paper pattern should be six nails and a quarter long and two nails wide. Slope from A to B, B being three-quarters of a nail from the corner. Slope again from B to C, cutting off half a nail.

For the crown, D, which is the doubled part, is five nails and a half long. E, or the bottom of the cap, is three nails wide. Round off the corner at the top, F. The front border of this cap is in one with the head-piece. The first thing to be done in making it up, is to join a piece of the same material, six nails long, and double the width of the border, say one nail and a half, to the corner or ear of the cap. This is neatly hemmed on both sides, together with the front edge of the head-piece, which is to form the border. A frill the same breadth is sewed to each end of the head-piece, and is joined to the long chin-pieces at one end, and at the other end to the lower part of the crown, which is to be the border behind. A narrow string-case is made in front, one nail and a half from the edge, and a bobbin run in along the front to the ends of the chin-piece. A similar string-case is also made at the lower part of the crown, and two bobbins run in, fastened at one end, and brought out at the opposite one, so that when drawn up they make the cap set to the head. The crown is set in equally full along the head-piece, the straight part being behind.

A BONNET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 19, 20.

This cap is in one piece. Let your paper be four nails wide by three nails and a half long. The front, A B, is a little hollowed, say a quarter of a nail. D is the doubled part. E is two nails and a half from the top, and a quarter of a nail from the side. Slope from F to E, and from E to C, which is one nail and a half from the side, and a quarter of a nail from the bottom. Curve a little to B.

In making up, hem it in the front, and make three or four runners to admit a coloured ribbon, the number and breadth of these depending on fancy. They must be allowed for in cutting out, as the pattern here given is not measured for any at all. Join it from E to C, either plainly or with a piece of insertion-lace, and at the back, CB, make another string-case. The upper part, from F to E, is gathered and drawn together, and a bow put on to conceal the gathering.

The pattern of this cap is a square of three nails and a half. D is the doubled part at the back. It is slightly hollowed, as in the Plate.

In making up, hem the front, A F, and the back, FE; join it up neatly from A to B, either with a piece of insertion-lace, with a satin rouleau, or with a ribbon, and gather the rest, BC, up to the point, B, where a bow of ribbon finishes it. Sometimes, as in the Plate, the border is not carried on in the front, but, leaving about one nail from the top of the cap, is carried back again to the ear, forming a second frilling.

HELMET CAP.
PLATE 15. FIG. 23, 24.

This is a remarkably pretty little morning or bonnet cap, and is generally made of tulle or lisse, as the shape is not so suitable to a washing material. It is in three parts, the two sides and a piece let in between them.

To cut the pattern of the sides, Fig. 23, let your paper be four nails long by two nails and threequarters broad. AB is the front, which is a little sloped.

Curve from B to C.

Slope upwards from C to E, and round from F to G.

The piece let in between these two sides is about three-quarters of a yard long, two nails broad in the front, and one nail and a quarter behind, gradually sloped.

In making up, the long narrow strip is gathered on both sides and sewed to the other pieces, Fig. 23, at A, G, F, E, C, equally full all the way. The stitches are concealed by a small satin rouleau laid on. The front and back are then wired and bound with ribbon. The border and any simple trimming complete it.

BONNET САР.

PLATE 15. FIG. 25, 26.

To cut the pattern of half this neat and simple bonnet cap, let your paper be six nails long and four nails broad. A B is the front. Curve from B, past C to E, C being one nail and three-quarters from the bottom and half a nail from the side, and E being two nails and a half from the top. D is the part where the net is to be doubled.

In making up, plait it behind in the centre, or rather large folds, seven on each side of the middle, and wrapping the folds over each other, so as to keep them all quite behind. Ribbon is laid on in two or three rows in front, either simply upon the cap, or covered with net. Bind it behind, and put on a border and some light trimming.

HANDKERCHIEF BONNET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 27, 28.

This cap is formed of a half-handkerchief, cut from a square of six nails and a half. D is the doubled part. The front is from A to B. Shape it a little, beginning about three nails from the top, to make it set better to the face. The extreme point, C, is rounded off.

In making up, hem it all round, and run in a tape or ribbon behind.

BONNET CAP.

PLATE 15. FIG. 29, 30.

The pattern of half this cap is cut from a paper five nails long by four nails broad. AB is the front, D the doubled part of the net. Slope from B to C, cutting off one nail and a half. Allow for runners, according to your taste.

In making up, hem the front and back, run the string-case, join it up the back from C to F, and hem the rest from F to the top. Run a ribbon in this hem, which draws it up into a crown, and ties with a bow behind at F. This cap looks very like Fig. 20, but the chief advantage of it is, that it can be very easily ironed, as, when the ribbon is drawn out of the crown, it is a flat piece.