Four collars, C C, six nails and a half long, one breadth. Two collars and twelve straps, S S, six nails and a half long, one breadth. Six sleeve-gussets, G G, two nails long, two breadths. Four wristbands (leaving two nails over), three nails long, three breadths. The remainder, two nails wide, and nine nails long, to be cut up into six neck-gussets, N N, one nail and a half square, leaving a piece, half a nail wide and nine long, to form the remainder of the gussets. PLATE 17. FIG. 6, Is the most economical plan of cutting six shirts of the same size, as Fig. 5. From the long strip cut two binders, in width eight nails and a half, six lengths. And two wristbands in the width, W W, three nails and a quarter long, six lengths. The whole strip is thus exactly used up. Three collars, C C, to be three nails wide and a piece over, seven nails long, two lengths. The piece left over of the breadth to be cut into Twelve shoulder-straps, S S, four in the width, four nails long, three breadths. Also two neck-gussets, N N, two nails square. Four leeve-gussets, G, three nails square, and one neck-gusset, N, in the width, three nails square, three breadths. Thirteen flap and bosom-gussets, one nail square, one breadth. PLATE 17. FIG. 8, Represents the best plan of cutting six shirts, similar in size to Fig. 7. Cut twelve sleeves, S S, seven nails and a half wide, seven nails long, twelve lengths. In the remainder of the breadth, two binders in the width, of Eleven nails long, six lengths. Twelve sleeve-gussets, G G, three nails square, six lengths. After which, cut as follows: Four collars, C C, three nails wide and eight nails long, leaving a strip one nail and a half wide for little gussets, one length. Two collars and six wristbands, W W, eight nails long, one length. Three wristbands, and six neck-gussets, N N, four nails long, two lengths. Twelve shoulder-straps, S S, four nails long, one length. A PLAN FOR CUTTING SIX SHIRTS OF THE SAME SIZE AS FIG. 9. Measure off the whole length for sleeves, eight nails square, twelve lengths. Two linings, BB, in the width, of twelve nails long, six lengths. Cut six wristbands, W W, in the width, four nails long, two lengths. From the piece over, cut two shoulder-straps, four nails long, and a piece over. Six neck-gussets, two nails square in the breadth, one length. A PLAN FOR CUTTING SIX SHIRTS SIMILAR IN SIZE TO FIG. 11. Measure off the twelve sleeves, eight nails wide, and ten long, twelve lengths. Two binders in the width, twelve nails long, six lengths. The strip is thus exactly used up, after which, Cut four sleeve-gussets in the width, three lengths. Six shoulder-straps, five nails long, two lengths. Six neck-gussets in the width, one length. Twelve flap-gussets in the width, two lengths. EXPLANATION OF MAKING UP SHIRTS. Double the long piece for the skirt in two, making the front breadth one nail shorter than the back breadth. Measure the proper distance from the top for the arm-holes, and the proper distance from the bottom for flaps, and put in pins for marks. The skirt is usually simply sewed up, but it is preferable, especially with gentlemen's shirts, to make a hem the whole length of the skirt, on each side, and then sew up between the arm-holes and flaps, firmly, with thick even stitches. Proceed next to stitch the collar and wristbands. Let the stitching be made about six threads from the edge, and carried all round both the wristbands and collar; taking care not to pass the stitches through both folds of them, at the opening or part, in which the fulness of the sleeve or shirt is to be gathered. Next prepare the straps by turning them in, and drawing the threads; do the same with the neck and other gussets. Now sew up the sleeves, putting in the large gussets, the little wrist-gussets and gathering them into the wristbands, to prepare them for putting into the shirts. Then put in the side-gussets, and hem the flaps and bottom of the shirt. These gussets are fixed by sewing them on at the wrong side of the shirt to within a quarter of an inch less than the square, and felling the other side nearly over. The neck gussets are next managed in the same manner, taking care to put the stitched part on the right side. The shoulder-strap is then doubled in half, and slightly tacked on the middle of the shoulder in the inside; then place each side flat on the shirt, and stitch it in the lines that have been prepared for it. The bosom is then stitched; and the button-holes made, or if, as in gentlemen's shirts, a piece is let into the front, it must be arranged according to the taste of the wearer. The lining is now neatly felled on, and the neck gathered, and set into the collar, after which the sleeves are gathered and put in. The bosom-bit may then be sewed in, and when the buttons are put on the whole is completed. The shirt is marked about an inch below the left hip or gusset. GENTLEMEN'S SHIRTS. PLATE 18. Gentlemen's shirts are usually made of fine Irish linen or lawn, and sometimes of long cloth. Some gentlemen wear striped calico, but seldom, unless engaged in sporting, boating, or fishing. Gentlemen's sons, up to ten or eleven years of age, or persons going into hot climates, wear strong calico, it being considered more healthful than linen, the latter is, however, the best wearing of the two, but more expensive. Care should be taken to procure the proper width, according to the size wanted; and the proper quantity, according to the number required. The Suffolk hemp is considered the best for shirting. Gentlemen's shirts are cut much on the same principle, but upon a more liberal plan than those mentioned for the labouring classes, with a few exceptions: such as some varieties in the pattern and size of binders, collars, shoulder-straps, &c. In most of them also, a piece of the linen is cut out in the front or bosom, and two pieces of cambric, or fine lawn, either plaited, or fulled in the place, to form the two sides or half fronts to the shirt. A scale is first given of different sizes, and then the best of the various patterns will be explained. |