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GENTLEMEN'S SHIRT FRONTS.

PLATE 18.

There are various modes of making up fronts, dependant on the age and taste of the wearer, as well as upon the changes of fashion. The material of which the front is made, should be of a width as to allow of the two half fronts being cut in the breadth; the length is measured from the top of the shoulder to the bottom of the opening prepared for it, allowing plenty to turn in at each end. The two halves having been made up according to fancy, are put into the front, making them overlap each other a full nail, exactly in the middle (see Fig. 2), which prevents the slit opening and exposing the skin. The most approved fronts, and those in general use, are the following:

A YOUNG CHILD'S FRONT,
PLATE 18. FIG. 1,

Is generally quite plain, with a broad hem and small pearl buttons; it should overlap half a nail.

A BOY'S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 2.

This is neatly gathered in, and at the end marked A, the fulling is set into a band of calico or linen, according to the material of the shirt, into which the shirt itself is also gathered.

AN OLDER BOY'S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 3.

These are usually secured in broad or narrow plaits, according to taste, at both ends, but not stitched down the whole way. The advantage of this is to permit of the first being pulled over when washed and ironed, at the same time that it naturally arranges itself in regular plaits whilst worn. The hem is sometimes made to project from the collar to half its depth at the top, where a little corner is left, attached to which is a button-hole which buttons it over to the other side of the collar.

ANOTHER BOY'S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 4.

This is arranged in small neat tucks, and is more adapted to young boys than the last. The make of this shirt differs from the others in most particulars. The front is entire, but with false buttons, and it opens behind, where there is a slit for the purpose in both shirt and collar. Many boys have their shirts made in this manner, but the washerwomen complain much of the trouble of ironing these closed fronts.

A GENTLEMAN'S SHIRT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 5.

This front is stitched down with the greatest neatness, in the most perfectly regular plaits, either broad or narrow, according to the fashion. The distance of the spaces between the plaits also varies much; sometimes an equal distance with the width of the plait is observed, at others only a half or a quarter, and sometimes the plaits are made to over-lap one another: this last mode looks heavy and common. Either buttons or two sets of button-holes are put, to admit of shirt studs, in which case, the buttons of one side are straight down the hem, and the corresponding button-holes on the other side are cut width-wise.

ANOTHER GENTLEMAN'S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 6.

This is fulled evenly at the top and bottom, and a frill of the finest cambric, sewed on to both sides. Sometimes the front is sewed in plain, and two frills sewed on one side, without any on the other, but this is rather an old fashioned shirt.

SHOULDER-STRAPS.

The shoulder-straps to gentlemen's shirts vary also a little, but the plain long strap, Fig. 1 and 7, is the one most usually approved of, nevertheless the few following shapes will be explained, for the benefit of those who may like to adopt them.

A CHILD'S SHOULDER-STRAP.

PLATE 18. FIG. 2.

The skirt of this shirt is carried straight up to the neck-gusset, which alone forms the strap, while an extra neck-gusset, the same size, is sewed on to the skirt at B, to lengthen the shoulder; this gusset must be cut in two parts, to admit of the fulling of the sleeve between the pieces. All the sleeve is fulled into this gusset, and the sleeve-gusset below, forms the rest of the arm-holes.

A SHOULDER-STRAP FOR ANY SIZED SHIRT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 3, 8, 9.

Some straps, instead of being continued over the neck gusset, are divided, or split into two parts, for about half their length, and are made to be laid along, the one on each side of the neck-gusset. The piece is cut in a straight length, and merely slit far enough to admit of the neck-gusset between.

ANOTHER SHOULDER-STRAP.

PLATE 18. FIG. 4, 10.

This forms shoulder-strap and neck-gusset at once, and has a neat appearance. The strip of cloth must be of the proper length and width for straps when gored, as mentioned in the Scale: after being gored, this piece of cloth is set on the shoulder, with, of course, the wide end towards the collar.

SLEEVES FOR LITTLE SHIRTS.

Young boys often have short sleeves confined into a band, as in the right hand sleeve of the shirt marked Fig. 1.

ANOTHER SLEEVE.
PLATE 18. FIG. 2.

This is often worn by children of the working classes, and is merely a large gusset doubled, and sewed on double (see the right hand sleeve of Fig. 2).

AN OLDER BOY'S SLEEVE.

PLATE 18. FIG 3.

This is made similar to those of a regular shirt, excepting that sometimes half a gusset only is sewed on to the sleeve instead of a square. This is less clumsy, and with a thin arm is more comfortable, though, generally speaking, the square gusset is the best, both for wear and for appearance.

VARIOUS WAYS OF PLAITING THE SKIRT IN FRONT.

When the part is cut out in front, a piece of cambric that is not so wide is put in for the front, so that the skirt below the slit is full and requires confining; this is done in various ways:

Sometimes in regular fulling, as in Fig. 2.

Sometimes in regular plaits, as in Fig. 3.

Sometimes in gathers, brought much in front, as Fig. 4.

Sometimes in double plaits.

Sometimes in plaits, stitched down, as in Fig 5.

VARIOUS SHAPES OF WRISTBANDS.

The most common shaped wristband, and one of the neatest, is that which is perfectly straight, and stitched neatly all round.

ANOTHER SHAPE.
PLATE 18. FIG. 1, 13.

Fig. 13 is a favourite shape, especially for boys. It is pointed; care must be taken in stitching it, to make the right side lie on the outside, when turned back, as in Fig. 1 (see the wristband attached to the sleeve).

ANOTHER SHAPE.
PLATE 18. FIG. 11.

This is a very neat shape, and accords with the collar of the shirt, Fig. 6. It is stitched all round, neat button-holes made, and buttons sewed on.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 18. FIG. 12.

This is remarkably pretty, and is much worn. The wristband when unturned is nearly as wide again as its proper width, not including the stitched hems.

BINDERS AND LININGS.

Shirts should always have binders or linings, and these vary in a few particulars. The binder is intended to strengthen that part of the shirt brought most into play by the movement of the arms, especially at the back, and also prevent the wear and tear of the braces.

Gentlemens's shirts have usually the binders very narrow, so as to leave a pretty wide space between each binder and the front, as in Fig. 4. It is however thought preferable by prudent wives, either to increase the width of the binder, so as to join the front, as in Fig. 5, or else to have a second binder or lining smaller than the first, between the regular lining and the front (see A, Fig. 6).

GENTLEMEN'S AND BOYS' COLLARS.

These vary so very much, according to the make of the neck and chin, as also the taste of the wearer, that only a few general patterns will be introduced as guides.

Many gentlemen prefer, having a narrow band sewed on to the shirt, as in Fig. 5, about three-quarters

V

of a nail deep, on which they fasten the collar, by letting the shirt button slip through a button-hole made in the middle of the collar.

Collars are always of double lawn or linen.

A LITTLE BOY'S COLLAR,

PLATE 18. FIG. 1,

Is a neat finish to a shirt, being a simple broad band back-stitched, and a fine cambric or lawn frill crimped and sewed at the top. The band should be one nail deep, when made up.

AN OLDER BOY'S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 2.

This is a very pretty collar also for the children of friends, being particularly simple. It is, when made up, about two nails and a half deep. As it falls over the jacket, observe to stitch it properly. It would suit the wristbands in Fig. 12.

OTHER COLLARS FOR OLDER BOYS.
PLATE 18. FIG. 3,

Is merely a straight band about one nail deep, and Fig. 4 is the same a little curved, so as to be deeper and more pointed in front than at the back, which gives a light appearance.

A MAN'S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 6.

See Fig. 6. This is a very neat collar, for an elderly gentleman especially, and when made up, is about two nails and a quarter deep. The front is curved, and rather deeper than the back (say half a nail): to this collar should be worn wristbands, Fig. 11.

ANOTHER COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 14.

This is a neat shape, but, as it is doubtful whether it would suit every one, it should be cut in paper, and tried on. The Plate only represents one half, the letter A being the centre. It should be sewed

into a band.

A NEAT GENTLEMAN'S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 15.

This is the most approved sort, and may be sewed to the shirt, or to a loose band. The half or gills, are cut cross-wise of the cloth, and four of them make one collar, as they are double; in sewing them on the band, two places are left to form a kind of long button-hole, through which the strings are put when tying it on. A button-hole in the middle of the collar, enables it to be firmly fastened to the shirt, as also do the two strings sewed to the band. Fig. 17 is one gill, and Fig. 18, the band.

ANOTHER GENTLEMAN'S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 27.

This is also sewed upon a band, and is a remarkably pretty shape, if cut according to the plan of the drawing, on which the measurements of the nails are marked. The band, Fig. 28, has in it two buttonholes; it is about one nail deep, and eight nails long. The collar is cut all in one length, and slit down in the middle to within half a nail of the bottom, thus making the slit one nail deep.

A LITTLE BOY'S COLLAR.

PLATE 18. FIG. 20, 21.

These are particularly pretty collars for little boys of from six to eight or nine. They are made of double Irish linen stitched round, and made to fall over the dress. Frills are sometimes attached to them, and suit young children very well; two or three button-holes are made in them, to attach them to the shirt. A broad black ribbon is generally worn with them round the neck.

A MAN'S FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 19.

These are worn by men and boys, to put on over a soiled or tumbled shirt, to give a neat appearance; they are, however, seldom used, it being much better to put on a clean shirt at once. It has two sides of fine lawn, with a front of cambric, which is plaited or gathered, according to pleasure, with a false hem down the middle, and buttons, so as to appear to open. This is hollowed under the neck, to the depth of a nail; two neck-gussets are attached, of one nail and a half square.

The gussets and front are sewed to a band or collar eight nails long, and about one nail and a half in depth before it is made up.

A BOYS CHEAT OR FRONT.

PLATE 18. FIG. 23, 24, 25.

This is a kind of habit shirt, to which a collar with a frill is attached. Fig. 23 is the collar, which should be neatly stitched, and a frill of fine lawn or cambric, half a nail in the whole depth, set on round it. Fig. 24 is the habit-shirt of the dimensions marked on the Plate, and Fig. 5 is the cheat completed, when sewed together.

A GENTLEMAN'S STOCK.

PLATE 18. FIG. 26.

Gentlemen's stocks are worn round the neck over the collar, and are made of stuff, muslin, horsehair or buckram: the Figure is the shape of half of one. The halves are sewed, firmly together up the centre (see M); they are bound round the edge with leather, and covered with satin, mode, or rich twilled silk. They are sometimes made, as in Fig. 29, with a fold of silk in the middle, through which two ends are passed; these are of one piece of silk, cut the cross way, and are four nails broad, and seven nails long, rounded a little at the ends.

CRAVATS.

They are generally made of fine muslin, and are the shape of a half handkerchief, being cut from a square of eighteen nails.

CLERGYMAN'S DRESS.

The cassock, the gown, the surplice, the badge or sash, the scarf or hood, and the bands, constitute the chief.

THE CASSOCK.

PLATE 18. FIG. 34, 35.

It is made sometimes of stuff, sometimes of rich black silk, in the following manner :

Cut four breadths of silk, one yard and a half long each. Two breadths form the front, and are sewed

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